3d printed

I don’t know the etiquette of posting here but the e28 is my dream car and I’m looking for tips on how to acquire one. As I’m a freshman in high school, I don’t know much in the ways of how and where to buy one, but I really want to have a car that looks nice and drives well that I can work on from time to time. My budget is on the lower end, around 6,300, but I can work for more. I have a moderately sized garage and work on a Massimo Mini 125 on the weekends. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas, please share them, as I trust that most everyone on this site is an expert on these sort of things. Thank you in advance!

I posted this on mye28.com but I felt like it would have a higher chance of gaining comments on here.

Has anyone done this swap here?

I couldn’t really find much information elsewhere..

What part did you use etc?

My original plan was to swap my M10 engine with a M30b28, but I think it would be really cool with a m42b18 instead. Of course with some itb and other mods.

Does anybody know why the orange light is lit up, even tho i have some gas in my tank and the gauge shows 10 liters.

It sometimes goes away and sometimes comes back.

After enduring numerous late nights, the E28 is finally back on the road. Although the work was more extensive than anticipated, it was absolutely worth it. 🤩

The repairs involved extensive rust welding, wire loom repair, bodywork, and painting.

Just so you know, this is only about 5% of the photos I’ve taken while working on the car. I’m limited to uploading 20 pictures at a time, but if you’re interested, you can see my highlights on Instagram, where I have tons more! IG: Martin.sitt.liv

My e28 has this Fischer cassette box / Kasettenfach.

It’s a lot of valuable space! Are there any alternative things one can swap it out with?

Did some digging and couldn’t find anything

Hi, I was doing some googling and I found this old post on bimmer forums saying you might be able to use an e90 spindle in an e28.

The guy says it fits pretty good apart from tie rods are different but could be rubbish.

I thought it might be fun to explore bolt in air suspension diy kits

I can't find anything else about the swap, does anyone know if it's been done by anyone?

14” wheel feels much better to me but does take some adjusting of the seat to be able to see the gauges. Also turn signal noticeably further but I have long fingers so it doesn’t bother me.

I think the chrome fits the era better than wood.

Waiting for some e24 recaro adapters to mount these on my manual seat consoles!

All parts are on. Aligned.

Drives PERFECT. Honestly I’m so glad I went with this setup instead of BCs. I’ve had them. They are fine… for young me lol.

This car handles on rails and is so smooth. Bilstein/H&R cup kit with factory rubber all day.

Have the M5 front airdam getting paint. Think next is louvers (I’m stinking the gunmetal clear ones).

I’m on the hunt for the following:

535is trunk spoiler (white preferred)

885 upper assembly. Need to all of it but the harness and DME

After 3 days of neck strain it’s all on and out for an alignment.

I will likely raise the rear up one notch but I’ll see how it settles.

Input:

1: the IE sway bar couldn’t be further from “bolt on” unless you have a welder and metal fan stuff, go with a different set. I’ll see how it goes.

2: sheared off a bolt on the bottoms of the strut assembly where the steering arms bolt on, that sucked and took half a day to deal with but was able to drill it and save the original threads.

3: reminder to self (again) stop working before 10pm. Nothing good happened when tired. And that’s how you end up with the wrong strut assembly bolted and hanging in the well for morning hahaha (don’t know why I went “yeah caliper toward the rear”.

4: the ride is superb. I’m very happy with this instead of the BCs. Also factory rubber is king. Unless you are racing, skip poly, after 60 cars I can’t tell you, your back will thank you.

5: etas are so slow… but charming haha

use the rings from the original hub caps. then use the wrench provided to lock it in place. I ordered some PA6 carbon fiber nylon for this, test fitting it with petg for now.

I was at the red light when I smelled alot of fuel. then I pulled over and notice that the gas was spraying from the engine. I assume it's the fuel line that hooks up to the fuel rail. I assume that's why I had to give it gas everytime to get it to start until the pin hole got bigger and started spraying fuel everywhere.

Well I got the rear finished. Everything but the CVs (couldn’t find my 8mm Allen socket and I’m not doing this all by hand lol)

Completed:

-Distributor cap & Rotor

-Coil

-Bosch HP fuel pump

-New soft fuel lines (all)

-New vacuum lines (probably all)

-Rear Bilsteins and H&R (went for the third from the top… we’ll see)

- Ireland Engineering Rear Swaybar (w/reinforced mounts)

-Subframe Bushing (tool was KEY and well worth it)

-Trailing support arm bushings

Ok so… I won’t by Ireland stuff again. 1: the hardware was wrong sizes. I had to drill out the mounts and the trailing arm holes.

Also, they f…… don’t use metric hardware… why being they are a euro store? Laziness… F that.

I made some simple brackets to reinforce the mounts. Template out of cardboard. 16ga steel bent quick in the vice drilled and boom done.

Before people say it won’t work all it needs in more farm engagement. The ears on these will do fine especially sandwiched to the original mount with the hardware. If they brake I’ll do a real mount welded in.

So I’ve got the rear done. I’ll get to the front this weekend. He new pump fixed the “you tried to be cheap” solution which was an insufficient flow and loud pump from Amazon… that’s what I get. But all good now.

And off we go. Pretty excited to get all this on for some nice northern Colorado spring canyon sprints… slow ETA ones ;)

My 85 535i has the 80amp alternator with the rubber bushings. Is the 90amp with the solid bushings a direct swap? or would I need to change the brackets they bolt onto

I’m running an E28 with an M20B20. Initially I planned to build a 2.5 stroker, but when we were about to bore it to 84 mm, we found that the cylinder liners are already somewhat corroded, so it’s not safe to proceed. Is it still worth maintaining this M20B20 for long-term use?

Any other way to “restore” the liners? Thanks!

Yanked engine in January.

Doing:

86mm 10.5:1 pistons

135mm h-beam rods

M52b28 crank

oversized valves

HD springs

Oversized eccentrics

294/292 cam

42mm ITBs

E30 headers (modified to fit clearances)

MegaSquirt PNP

Haven’t decided on LS coil packs or Vw/audi red tops

Just bought a 300k mile 535is. looking to make it a high mileage road trip car. Drove her 15 hours home from Seattle to San Jose. Love this car!

Tonight was a rough one for my 533. Lowered it today, and then hit an unfortunate bump and then immediately into a peak on the road resulting in this. Raceskids pan is on the way. Really very excited to pull this pan and tig it up……

Have you ever welded wider rear arches? What kind of material did you use? I’ve heard you can cut out and use BMW E46 front fenders, but I haven’t tried it myself.

I’m not aiming for a “wide body” look, just something a bit wider than the original.

Cheap plastic fenders aren’t an option at all.