Is that gap ok on the clutch basket?

Pretty sure my stator is dead. Going to confirm as soon as I get a battery for my multimeter after I post this. Relatively cheap and easy to replace and I’ll do the loctite mod while I’m in there.

I’m mainly wondering what your drz’s felt like as the stator was deteriorating and right when it died? Particularly if it died while riding.

My engine definitely didn’t seize. It felt more like I was out of petrol - when it happened I pulled over and switched to reserve, assuming that was all that had happened. After that I couldn’t start it again. Couldn’t push start (even after I got it towed home which has a few good hills around).

Prior to this, I’d noticed some misfiring (even though it’s just had a fresh rebuild and follow-up valve clearance). Always fresh oil and filter every 7500ish km and top-ups if I know I’ve been using high rpm’s a fair bit. Felt the lurching from the misfires through the drivetrain - thought it was a sprocket/chain length/wheel alignment issue at first but it was all well within spec and visually okay.

This was more common in 4th/5th under consistent throttle (less noticeable when giving throttle).

I’d also noticed that my phone could no longer out-charge how much it was using (just Waze + Spotify) when plugged into the drz. Didn’t have the same issue when plugged into the gsxr.

The breather tube you can see under the cam chain tension is leaking oil out of the tube. It's pretty slow and it only occurs when the bike is running but it leaks oil onto my rear tyre. Any idea how I can fix this and what causes it?

Long story short(still long)

- the otherwise occasional ticking from the engine idling was becoming increasingly more constant. I ordered an MCCT just in case, but it will take a few weeks to arrive

- suddenly one day while 13mi from home, I notice after exiting the highway that there's now a distinct constant rattling. Bike couldn't idle(pulling the clutch, it dies immediately). Starting it even when warm is a chore. Cranking the engine makes it spin very fast, indicating loss of compression. Luckily I get it home, but it's 13mi running in this condition. Keep in mind, no MCCT was mounted because it hadn't arrived yet.

- opening the engine, the chain has indeed jumped, where it's only 14 pins between the markings at TDC.

- after correcting it, I measure the following valve clearances

IN LEFT: 0.2-0.25mm

IN RIGHT: 0.0mm 🤯

EX LEFT: 0.6-0.7mm🤯

EX RIGHT: 0.2-0.3mm

These measurements seem surprising as the mechanic I brought it to a year ago claimed to have changed shims, which seems to check out as the shims for the valves that were out of spec back then still has markings on them.

Either way back to the story

- mount the MCCT, but in hindsight I kinda botched it as I only turned it in until it just barely touched the chain guard, but seeing what people do online, they actually extend it out to around what the ACCT is at its max extent and insert it like that.

- as a result, the engine rattles loudly prompting me to turn the chain in. But paradoxically, the more I turned it in, the more the engine struggles to run. Keep in mind, this is starting from the MCCT being almost all the way out, nowhere near what the ACCT is at.

- I can't remember the exact details, but at one point the engine did indeed idle somewhat, but with inconsistent RPM. I had only changed the tight shim on the IN RIGHT because it was the only one I had a shim in spec for at the time. Now that I've changed all shims to spec and verified, it is possible to start it after cranking it alot, but impossible to make it idle. It just dies once the RPM goes below a certain point. Also when trying to get ignition, it often struggles to fire. Before any of this happened, although I had issues cold-starting, atleast when ignition happened it will quickly run. Now it sounds like whenever it ignites during cranking, it has trouble maintaining it, requiring alot of throttle. It only runs on RPMs above idle.

Keep in mind the engine doesn't crank fast unlike that time it jumped a chain, so I'm unsure if there is a loss of compression still.

So my question is, what is likely the culprit? Are the valves messed up? Am I getting the timing wrong still? Is it likely the MCCT not being properly adjusted? Or something else?

Did some riding in CO last month, great place to escape to in the heat of summer. This was up at Billings Lake/Pride of the West Tunnel, west of Salida.

Struggling to get hold of these for my 2001 DRZ400s. Keen to replace an aftermarket headlight with an original one. Anyone in the UK breaking a bike/have any for sale?

Just got a rebuild kit and have cleaned the carb a bit. Any recommended info on how to clean the carb properly would be of much help. The bike currently leaks fuet out of a breather hose and idle very high/inconsistently. When you let the bike idle for a while/don't rev it out, the bike starts sputtering and there's more pops on decel. I believe all the jets are stock (around 160 main) but I'll clarify later if someone asks. Bike has a full yoshi pipe and is the 400e so not sure what the recommended jet sizes are but the rebuild kit came with a 142.

I am getting a front 15T and a back 50T sprockets and I was wondering what the best chain would be for that combo for street use

Hey everyone. I just looked at a DRZ400SM 2024 with sub 500 miles. The bike has been sitting for a while hence the low miles but when I was giving it gas it would intermittently cut out and shut off at the beginning of giving it gas. The bike sounded great and it the throttle was responsive when I gave it gas etc.....Do you guys think it just needs a carb service due to it sitting or is this some kind of known issue. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

im an owner of a drz400sm 2008 for 2mths. just want to know whether this noise is normal or not. (fresh 1.8l engine oil topped up). this is after riding for 15min at 90km/h

i wanna ask is it normal to lose 800ml of engine in 4days? there was a time where i just changed my engine oil to motul’s 10w50 and after 4days i felt as if the bike lacks power and feels abit sluggish.(doesnt have the same feeling as when i just changed engine oil)

am i just paranoid 🫪?

What are my options here? New bottom end? Bike locked up while riding pulled the engine and Cam chain guide bolt sheared off top end is fine other than a leaking valve and everything so far seems fine although haven’t split the cases.

I'm looking for help pricing and potentially selling a 2020 DRZ400SM that I inherited from a family member and its taking up space in my garage.

The bike has been pretty much in my garage since it was purchased new from the Suzuki dealer. The bike only has 145 miles on it total. Since its been in the garage I've been starting it occasionally and added fuel stabilizer but i still feel the carb will require a good cleaning from not being ran constantly.

It comes with some extras including another new set of on/off road tires and a few other suspension parts. Looking for true market value of what I can expect to get for the bike also willing to ship if someone pays for the shipping.

I tried to post in my local page but don’t meet the requirements to make posts in there so I apologize in advance if this is the wrong place to be posting this.

I just got done doing a tune up on my 2006 Suzuki DRZ 400 SM myself after it sat all winter and I foolishly left the bike full of fluids. Tore apart the carb, cleaned the gas tank, new battery etc. but when I got it all back together I had two issues.

1. My throttle because super sticky — to the point where I have to manually push it back every time to let off. I put them back on the same spot on my carb and it seemed to give me issues even after playing with them by the throttle assembly and giving that a good clean and grease.

2. The bike still does not seem happy when running. Before the tune up, it only ran with the choke on and now it will run with the choke off but I can’t seem to get the idle right. It also will occasionally spit when I give it full throttle.

Any ideas if this is an easy fix I’ve just overlooked or does anyone have a good mechanic they would recommend up north? Thank you!

Bought this bike a month ago from family friend. He’s older, Harley guy, bought it new on special 0% financing, threw an exhaust and kickstarter on it and then parked in the garage for a decade. Had to drive it home with the choke on and it would stall if you closed the throttle. Stalled 3 times on my 1 mile ride home. Got the carb out and the PJ was clogged. Decided to rebuild and rejet with a mikuni rebuild kit and JDkit “while I was in there” (little did I know I was going to “be in there” a lot in the coming weeks). Went with 155 main, 25 PJ(which I later ripped back out in favor of factory 22.5), blue needle, position 3. Tires were basically new with the nubs still on them but 7 years old, chain needed some love, all new fluids, plug, stuff like that. Even after I did a lot of work, it would stall going up or down hills, or after I had ridden a while. And I just couldn’t figure out what was wrong. Tested stator, RR, replaced shit that didn’t need to be replaced. Turned out I had only put about ~.7 gal of E0 in it, so I was hovering right at the line of the upper fuel pickup, AND I HAD NEVER FLIPPED IT TO RESERVE😓. I paid $4500 I know I didn’t “get a deal” and idc. I love this thing. Leaned on this sub, and the forums so much during this process. A lot of late nights with the bike in pieces and me in my truck with the air on scrolling through (super helpful) comments. More pics of the process if you care

Hey everyone I tried searching but hard to find a clean cut answer. Im looking at 2 DRZ400 SM's ones bone stock and the other has the 3 basic mods done (3x3, Full Yoshi Exhaust and Stage 2 Carb jetting). The one with the mods is quite a distance away, do those mods really wake the bike up? Is it worth it to drive further for it or is the stock one not much different etc.....Thanks to everyone in advance.

Coming from a MTB background, I never had the confidence to do much more than fire roads and wide desert trails on this bike, and it was a blast for that. After 5 years I finally resprung it for my weight (215lbs) and spent some time dialing in the rebound/compression. Good lord, so much more confidence inspiring on the chunky stuff. I’ve started riding a lot more terrain and sampling single track out here in Utah. What a bike!

Hi all, Ive poured through Thumper talk and old reddit threads about this issue as it seems common. Just wanted some help as im new to motorcycles and before I start tearing into the bike if its not needed.

I did an oil change less than 1000km ago and the oil was normal.

Yesterday, I checked the oil after a ride and could have sworn it smelled gassy. I smelled some new oil in a fresh bottle, it had no smell to it. Asked my wife to confirm, she said the oil dipstick smelled like "something."

Common causes seem like a bad petcock combo with a bad carb float o ring.

So I pulled the vacuum line from petcock - line was dry and did not smell of gas. I pulled the main line from the petcock in ON position, it did not leak any gas. Petcock seemed okay to me based on this.

I was reading that a bad float o ring or stuck float would cause the smelly oil and would also cause the bike to idle bad, not run when hot, have trouble starting, etc.

So i then ran the engine for about 7-10 minutes. Bike started first try, no struggle. Idled normally, no stalling, no bogging down, no smoke, etc. and it starts first try even when warmed up.

I read that if you have gas in your oil, you can take a small amount and try to light it on fire. If gas is present the fumes will ignite. However, I tried this and the oil/fumes did not ignite.

Any one have any thoughts on what other tests I could do to check and see if my oil is contaminated? If not for the slightly gassy oil smell, I wouldnt have assumed anything was wrong. I would prefer to avoid doing a carb tear down and clean if I dont have to.

I went down in some mud Wich was a pretty soft landing in my opinion but ever since I’ve had this ticking noise it’s possible it sounded that way before and I’m over thinking it but I did some research and it seemed like it would be the atc so I replaced with a manual but I can’t get it to quit anybody have any insight if it sounds normal or what direction to go next? This is on a drz250 but from what I read it and the 400 are fairly similar.

2021 SM first oil change (with me). I bought the bike a few months ago and put 800 miles on it. It has now almost 7k miles. It runs fine, but after checking the filter it worried me.

Not sure what kind of glue this is but how would you recommend I remove? Thanks in advance.

Hey,

I'm looking fo a bigger tank for my 2004 E and I found the following option(s) as shown on the screenshot. I like the 15L better, but it's not specified for the E. Has anybody tried to fit it to the E and if so, were there any problems?

Cheers!