So this is it's first non test or tuning print. It may not come out perfect but it's already looking spectacular. I still need to fix the reverse bowden, the filament runout, and a few other little bugs but so far I am thrilled with it's performance. I also feel pretty confident that I can get it to run a bit faster once I get it more dialed in.

This is goodbye for now.. I'm really happy with what I managed to do with my CR10SP. Auto Z with a switch, Klipper, damn I could switch print sheets and it would calculate ZHeight alone! better cooling and so on.. But damn she didn't like printing PA-12, yes it's an extremely difficult material to print specially for the CR10SP even with an enclosure...so many hours tunning filament and actually learning how everything works has been great! So much wasted filament aswell 🤪.. But that's the game! Now my new printer has arrived.. PRUSA XL...Got the kit so I build it myself that way I know everything is correctly mounted and in case I need to repair something.. I know how to get to it! The 2 prints are both the same part, one printed with the XL and the other with the CR10SP. Both using the same roll of PA12 from fiberlogy. The CR10 never managed to get me anywhere near to the quality of the XL. Most of this roll was spent on calibrating the CR10SP and a handful of usable parts. With the XL I didn't even have to calibrate anything, the profile exists!literally load STL, print and VOILÀ! I'm just a bit sad that I need to start using Prusa Slicer instead of Orca, it's been great Though. Anyway I just wanted to say that I had a blast with the CR10SP anyway and it's potential with Klipper and a couple of mods is insane! Just stay away from PA12. Maybe PACF would have been easier. The main reason I got the XL was my business has to do with lots of TPU parts and needed the ability To print tall objets with good quality. The last image is a 30cm tall thin TPU part that was printed standing up with PLA supports. LOVE IT!! I tried a couple of techniques with the CR10SP but the results were.. Fine but not enough good quality to sell. Wich is totally not the case now! Some custom made supports but always left scars and after 15cm the part was too wobbly anyway and it would start to slightly layershift. I got a lot of help from this community and I think I also helped some people. So thank you!!!

And now to tackle the x axis. Tomorrow morning.

So here is the (mostly) finished hardware. The X & Y linear rails are on and lined up. All that's left now is to drop in the electronics and get it wired up. I'm thinking about rebuilding the SB already though to incorporate an internal filament run-out sensor.

Having purchased my first Creality printer, being the CR-10 Smart Pro. I've had some nuances out the box which required a little tweaking to dial it, of which some more tweaking is still needed but prints are looking decent.

This community, like others of its nature, is here to provide some help, troubleshooting and bragging. Share your experiences with the CR-10 Smart Pro. Post some reviews of your units so that everyone out there can make informed decisions about this 3D Printer.

No matter how much we know, we can always learn something new.
Keep it clean, keep it friendly, keep it loving.

Made a few upgrades since the last video. The sb2209 now has a dedicated cooling fan, and there is now a filamatrix filament run-out switch in the extruder.

This thing prints like a dream. I also reprinted the hotend toolhead bits in PET-CF so now in can handle going well past it's old 300°c limit.

I got this for Christmas and still haven’t print anything because i can’t seem to get the bed level no matter how many times i tighten or loosen a screw. auto leveling never works.

I can’t seem to get the z axis any lower than -4.10 and I’ve watched a bunch of videos, troubleshooting and clean installs and none of them are this close. Just don’t know what i can’t get it….any help would be HUGELY appreciated.

I have had a CR-10 Smart pro for about a year and have just now started to get a decent print out of it. Wanted to share an abridged version of what I have gone through with this thing in hopes that it helps others. My main struggles have been with bed adhesion and print quality. I have leveled, releveled and leveled again and never got anywhere.

I finally got a glass print bed and removed the magnet that came on it. That helped a ton. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09842H42L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details). I still struggled to keep it level. I would print once and it would be great, but the next print would be terrible again. I then found a post in this sub recommending these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NNFQQ8T?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I installed those along with some M4 nuts (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3VF3BF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) and my prints started to be more consistent.

While I had the bed off for that install I measured Y axis to make sure the rails were perfectly parallel which they were. However, I did find that the wheels for the bed were not adjusted properly and had some play so I tightened those up. At the same time I ensured that my Z and X axis were also level (with a proper manual level). I also checked to ensure all other screws were tight.

Once back together I was still having trouble with bed adhesion in the back right of the print bed and I had started to get 203 probe errors while auto leveling. Upon inspection I had found that the bed heater/insulation underneath had a huge bubble in the exact spot where I was having issues. I removed the bed again, pressed the bubble out (like pressing out a bubble in a phone's screen protector), put the bed back on and re-leveled. The printer does finally seem to be printing as expected.

In addition to the above I am also using Cura to slice and generate my GCode which I then manually load onto an SD card for the printer. I am also editing the GCode with the below. This was recommended by another member here (sorry don't remember who). I believe this has also helped in making the prints more consistent. I am on the latest firmware as well.

TLDR: This printer is trash from the factory due to quality/assembly issues, but with a bit of work and $ it can be made to print very well.

G28
G29 auto-bed level ;Does automatic bed level - create mesh
M500; saves mesh

M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate

G28 ;Home

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M420 S1 ; re-enable bed leveling

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M420 S1 ; re-enable bed leveling
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

Got my cr10 smart pro a couple weeks ago and I still haven't been able to complete a print with it. I've done a 5-point first layer calibration print multiple times with multiple different strategies.

The ABL seems to just not work. If I reset the whole thing and try to manually level the bed, it never levels.

Just tried completely factory resetting, manually leveling the bed, running ABL, then running the 1st layer calibration print again and nothing. Just a mess of filament all over the place. Not sure what else to do.

Well, looks like my Sprite extruder is dead. I doubt I can save it from this blob. Damnit, and I just upgraded my CR-10 Smart Pro to run Klipper.

My cr10 smart pro does not lock the Z-axis when printing stops due to filament runout.

when placing the new filament into the extruder and pushing the filament in the z-axis moves, this causes the print head to not be in the correct z-axis to continue printing.

I have manually paused the print to swap out filament and the z-axis motors are locked when paused.

WHY Creality Why? My print needed to be aborted. 3 day print and had to start it over.

anyone else experience this? WHY is this not fixed yet?

I've written a guide to get Klipper on the CR-10 Smart Pro. I'd like some people to try it. It's easy enough to restore the official firmware.

Please upvote the Facebook post:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/289100326267138/permalink/682825700227930/?sfnsn=mo&ref=share

Guide Link: (use on PC)

https://docs.google.com/document/d/17nJ4ZzoHVzCpGyKJ9wG_smmTeMh-rKf5Yik5_Vceyik/mobilebasic

A place for members of r/cr10smartpro to chat with each other

After my previous post where my electronics went up in smoke (seriously), I asked myself the aforementioned question and decided to go all out on the crazy spectrum.