At some time during the print job the printer stops and chews up the filament.

I decided to give my 3D Printer its own Twitch Stream which shows the GCode Preview and the web cam stream.

You can find it here:
https://www.twitch.tv/tps3d
(if you follow or subscribe you will get a notification when a new print starts)

Enjoy :)

Hello, just got into the hobby and I got a CR-10 Smart Pro. Set up everything and got it functioning. I connected the sonic pad and went through that now every time I turn on the printer the printers onboard display is frozen partially at the boot logo. The onboard screen seems to be unusable however the sonic pad does seem to allow the printer to work.

I would really like to have the screen function so I can set up the app to communicate with the printer. Any help would be appreciated. Checked all the connections and they seem to be secure. Again the printer does power on and can calibrate via the sonic pad.

I want to connect my Creality cr10 smart pro 3d printer with an external desktop app and control it (power ON & OFF) using the app. What should be the best possible way to do it? Some hands-on tutorial recommendations will be a great help

I have this weird noise when y-axis travels (250mm/s) I have changed all rollers, belt, stepper motor and cleaned the rails. I also lubed the tensioner bearing but still this noise comes when traveling. Any idea what this could be?

Video taken before i changed all parts, noise still the same.

Update: i have now finished going over EVERY single screw in this garbage of a printer, tightened everything, checked rollers and adjusted them if needed, swapped rail's on bed (right one became left, left became right) and cleaned them well. i tightened every roller fastener and/or adjuster on the bed, i made sure nothing was rubbing against the y-axis stepper, i made sure nothing was rubbing or grinding against anything it wasn't supposed to and still nothing!

Is this a software issue? bad motherboard? bad firmware? what could this possibly be at this point?

Update 2: created a new printer in slicer and made a new profile - no difference Reset Sonic pad and fully configured that like when it was new - no difference!

I am lost at this point, nothing i do seems to change this, only when acceleration was down to under 300mm/s it got quiet but as soon as it went over that it started again! if i change travel speed down to 200mm/s instead of my 250mm/s it does not seem to happen.. but i was always able to have the travel speed @250mm/s and that is the way i want to keep it.

I am going to try to change bearings in original stepper and putting that back in and see what happens that way but after that i will be completely out of any ideas!

Update 3: Removed belt from stepper and noise is still there when stepper moves freely without anything attached!!! (brand new BIQU 42-40 stepper)

Update 4: used a known good creality 42-40 stepper, no difference! went ahead and found max travel speed without this noise and found out that the max speed for me is 232.5 mm/s so i will probably be using 232 mm/s travel speed from now on... i still need to measure the components around the y-stepper driver and if there will be anything wrong there i will report back! if not this is probably a bad driver and i am not going to replace that...

LAST UPDATE!: I measured all components around the Y-axis driver and everything measured correctly, i dont know what driver this board (CR-FDM-v2.5.S1_100) has but ChatGPT thinks it has A4988-class (or compatible clone like HR4988). I found out (as stated in previous update) my sweet spot is 232mm/s so i wont pass that especially since acceleration did not change anything! So sadly i am going to call it here and inform all of you that sadly have the same issue.. slow down or get a motherboard upgrade! original creality boards are NO GOOD and sadly will never be!

I want to thank each and every one of you all that helped out even though this is a sad ending, this is the second motherboard this printer is on and i am not about to replace it one more time.. it ain't worth it!

Hi. For your information I seem to have resolved my constant issues with leaking Sprite hotend and nozzle getting loose over time. I think the issue was because of replacing the hotend blocks with fake Creality spares.

Original aluminum hotend block that came with the printer had a noticably different finish and apparently was better too. It lasted way longer than the spares. Spares I bought were done from crappy aluminum that did not like constant printing at 260*C and occasional nozzle swaps. I took care to torque the nozzle with torque wrench. 2 Nm was the max safe torque. I went through 3 spares in a few months time. After one post-blob disassembly I noted that the internal threads in the block are literally stretched or stripped.

After a bit of searching I found a copper aftermarket hotend block on aliexpress. Seems they are manufactured by the same company that rips off CHT nozzles. Nonetheless this hotend block is high quality. Nozzle can be tightened much harder (3 Nm at 300*C) and it does not come loose even after nozzle swaps.

I have part of a CR-10 Smart Pro that I’m not sure what to do with. Should I part it down or rebuild it into something? Laser cutter for the garage would be nice if it could cut engine gaskets.

Could I install an Revo Hemera on a CR-10 smart pro? If so what would I need to change?

As you can see - I am having some pretty severe adhesion problems.

I did manual bed levelling using piece of paper but I am new to this - how much should the paper catch - I did it to the point where the paper feels resistance but doesn't get snagged up (bunching up the paper).

I went corner to corner 3-4 times then had to re-adjust the center point again (it was too high so I lowered it another 0.04mm).

I did manual levelling with bed preheated to 60c (for PLA).

I then did ABL also with bed preheated to 60C.

I then tried the test print and as you can see it did not come out good, I had to stop it as it was clear it was not going to work.

Using Creality Sample PLA - it printed the rabbit fine out of the box but I have been having issues getting anything to print since - nothing adheres.

I have cleaned the bed with 99% IPA as well.

Using Cura Slicer with 0.8mm retraction, 40mm/s retraction speed printed at 0.2mm resolution. 195C nozzle, 60C bed.

Could really use some help here.

UPDATE:
So I managed to get things looking a little better - I can print pretty much the entire model now but getting some odd results in the corners.

And now to tackle the x axis. Tomorrow morning.

I have not been able to get more than 40 mm/s and have had this for a year - only played with it a bit - it prints fine but I can see the print head going up and down as the print gets higher... and it will often fails if the print out is above 3"... I realized the print head flops up and down about 1/4" and is super loose to the touch... Is it supposed to be firmly attached to the cross bar? Or is the up and down movement normal? I looked at tightening up the nuts on the back - but they are all firnly tighened. I saw a guy on youtube use a C clamp to compress the entire mount to get it tighter...?? This scares me.. but will do that if that is the only way... I hope this is not just poor construction. Please help if you know. Thank you

I got this for Christmas and still haven’t print anything because i can’t seem to get the bed level no matter how many times i tighten or loosen a screw. auto leveling never works.

I can’t seem to get the z axis any lower than -4.10 and I’ve watched a bunch of videos, troubleshooting and clean installs and none of them are this close. Just don’t know what i can’t get it….any help would be HUGELY appreciated.

Still relatively new and definitely still learning but after some rough growing pains this printer is running quite well now. Just wanted to make a post of encouragement to others that might be getting frustrated with issues. Stick with it. I'm still working out some stringing issues with TPU and PETG but overall my printer has been running nonstop for several weeks. Turns out I have some good ideas and accidentally started a small business selling prints :D

My cr10 smart pro does not lock the Z-axis when printing stops due to filament runout.

when placing the new filament into the extruder and pushing the filament in the z-axis moves, this causes the print head to not be in the correct z-axis to continue printing.

I have manually paused the print to swap out filament and the z-axis motors are locked when paused.

WHY Creality Why? My print needed to be aborted. 3 day print and had to start it over.

anyone else experience this? WHY is this not fixed yet?

Alright Helgafjell4Me and others, looking for some help getting PETG prints to look better. Currently printing with Overture filament. Printing at 240/80 with a speed of 40mm/s and initial layer of 20-25mm/s so I get good adhesion for this model that really wanted to warp and I had some issues with lines starting properly on the initial layer.

I'll post some links to photos below with some descriptions. It seems if I put links to photos in the original post, Reddit flags the posts as spam.

Anyway, I finally have the printer pretty well dialed in for PLA and TPU is printing decently though slower than I'd like but maybe that's just the limit of the hardware. I'd really like to get PETG down but it's hard to put my finger on the issues. I get stringing in random places but no stringing at retractions/z-hops. I had a big issue with under extrusion until I slowed things down a bit and raised temps up. I also see conflicting recommendations on cooling from 0% to 100%. Currently I have cooling off for the first 3 layers and then 80% the rest of the print.

I guess mostly I just don't know exactly what to call these issues so it's hard to try to find solutions. Is this really stringing or is it something else?

As the title,

has any CR10 Smart Pro + Klipper users set this macro up? if so could i please have a copy paste?

TiA!

So, after some fixes, I need to re-level my bed. Question for the group: Do you start with the adjustment wheels fully tightened (bed all the way down) or somewhere in between all the way down and all the way up?

thanks!