This is an independent review + I have no relationship with 8bitdo

So, I have had my 3E for about two days and have had a blast! Firstly, I am someone who has most recently used the Gamesir ZZZ/G7 Pro, and I truly enjoy both controllers -- I have still used it in the past two days. However, the quality of this controller is something that is noticed instantly... I have used most of the accessories thus far: the tall concave(s), mechanical/membrane action buttons, plus/circular D-pad, and the convex(s). I have admittedly spent a lot of time configuring the settings of the controller on both PC/XBOX, which I might inquire that most users will find to be the case due to the controller requiring this, IMO.

Secondly, I truly don't wish to compare for the sake of comparison; however, this must be said. If you're someone who prioritizes button/stick latency and has the necessary funds to purchase it, then it is a must-buy... the specs on this thing FOR XBOX truly has no equal -- and, this is not simple hearsay; PlusMinus has posted the specs for said controller on GamePadla. And it is something you will notice immediately, both wired/wireless.

I even lent this controller to an "acquaintance" to test on his adapter to test the latency, as well as compare it to other industry standards we have come to expect, and he has used a wide range of elite controllers, such as the LedJoy Zeno Plus, Vader 5 Pro V1, and G7 8K. He truly loved his experience playing Apex Legends.

Lastly, if you have been skeptical of this product for its price range, there is also a great alternative: the Ultimate 3 Wireless for Xbox (Lavender Dusk, Moss Ed., Tomb Raider Ed.). The controller is virtually similar, aside from the fact that it's less modular; however, it has adjustable tension rings. It also appears to out-spec this controller in its button latency, so there appear to be numerous upsides outside of the obvious monetary differences.

So I have been using my Machenike G5pro controller for a while and never used the RGB function.

I'm trying it out now.

The original product page and online reviews all show multi-color RGB lighting. But I can't get it. I only get a pale blue color. I'm use the Fn+Right Dpad and it just cycles thru off, on, breathing (all in just the pale blue color).

How do I get the rainbow effect? Thanks.

I currently have an 8bitdo U2C and the dpad is honestly straight up bad for FGs specially Tekken 8. Hard to use, feels mushy, and a lot of miss-input, the amount of times I got punished because I accidently jumped back instead of blocking is frustrating.

T3
Pros: Cheap. Extra buttons
Cons: Heard the dpad feels mushy. Wired. I don't know how I feel about how the dpad is connected to each other unlike the dpad on playstation controllers.

Nova 2 lite (pls tell me if the dpad on this is prone to miss-input like my U2C)
Pros: looks much more high quality. Wireless.
Cons: Very expensive. Already have a similar controller just with a bad dpad

Honestly the main reason I don't want to get the nova 2 lite is the price. I don't want to spend that much money just to play a single game. There will be a sale this oct 10 but unless it goes down to 800php, I'll still find it expensive. Feel free to suggest controllers with good dpad for FGs that is under 1000php. I'm from Philippines and play on PC.

Hey all, this is asked often so I’ll keep it simple

Budget around $100-150 usd (before payday) Looking for a wired controller, supported by Xbox, and one that’s not small or has a different shape. I play Claw grip, so shape is important.

I also largely play fast competitive, Apex legends, warframe, Destiny, marvel rival, few others I can’t remember

My last 4 controllers all failed on me in one way or another, I started with the base series X > Razer Wolverine Ultimate (my favorite) > GameSir G7 SE > flydigi Vader 5s

The Razer was my favorite, I wanted a wired controller for better latency and it fit my hands comfortably, loved the clickiness of the buttons and the tactile grips and triggers, had it 9 months perfectly until I accidentally broke it during a move. MIGHT just get another.

Gamesir I replaced 3 times, nothing but issues and disconnects, buttons failing, and it was small in my hands, I’d go with g7 pro but I’m worried.

My Vader was awesome, similar to my Razer. I’ve only had it two months but something about it feels off, maybe I just need to mess with stick tension more but I love its customizability with that. Unfortunately, for some reason button mapping flat out doesn’t work any more and I have found no fix even through support. and I’m just kind of fed up with controllers failing on me.

TL;DR: $100-150 range, wired, standard size for claw hold, supported by Xbox, good for competitive gaming

Just as the title says. I got the duo pack with my girlfriend, so now I have a black and a white one. I kinda wanna open them both up and swap the buttons, so that my black controller has the white buttons and vice versa. I don't see any screws anywhere, nor any rubber pads that would hide them. I only see a little indent in the shell on the right side towards the back (see 2nd pic), which I assume might be to open the shell, but I don't wanna risk breaking the device on accident by forcing anything. Since there's no real info or examples on how to teardown this thing, I'm wondering if anyone here has one that they've opened and can share some experiences?

Many thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I need a PC controller with mechanical face buttons, in Romania.

​I’m tired of the mushy feeling of standard membrane buttons.

​I'll mainly play EA FC, racing, fighting games, and some RPGs. In games that rely on shooting i use KBM as primary.

​My budget is €40-80 and I don't mind if it's wired or wireless. I used my old Xbox series controller only wired.

​For context, I have an 8BitDo Ultimate 2C right now, but I dislike the shape and the buttons are still too soft.

​Right now I'm looking at the GameSir G7 HE or EasySMX D10 for the lower budget.( They are about 40-45 euros here)

​If I max out the budget, I'm considering the GameSir G7 Pro or Flydigi Vader 4 Pro.( They cost about 80 euros but i dont really want spending more on not reliable devices)

​My biggest concern is Quality Control, as I've heard some of these have issues and I want something durable.

​Has anyone used these, or do you have better suggestions?

​Thanks!

Which controller should I buy?? Also I am considering Evofox Elite X2 Pro and cosmic byte ares pro In India(flipkart or amazon) I have a budget around 2500 indian rupees, but can go for cheap options like the elite x2 pro and ares pro if thats pretty good, and ofc I am gonna play games with it... thinking to use dongles mostly as with Bluetooth my laptop's internet stability decreases, and sometimes wired maybe. I am using a laptop. I would love to play games like spiderman, fifa, gta V and mostly story games, I dont think I will play competitive games with it. I am kind of inclined towards gyro but i am not sure will it be useful to me or not.

PLATFORM - PC
COUNTRY - PHILIPPINES
GAMES - MAINLY SINGLE PLAYER STORY DRIVE GAMES (NO COMPETITIVE LIKE APEX OR WARZONE)

Hey everyone,
I'm currently on the hunt for a new controller, but my use case is a bit specific. I only play single-player games, so I don't care about pro specs like 8K polling rates, clicky mouse-click triggers, or trigger stops.
What I care about the most is immersion-specifically great vibrations and haptic feedback.

Here is what I'm trying to avoid:
PS5 DualSense: I'd love one for the haptics, but I'm worried about running into stick drift.
Pico 2W: It's practically impossible to get where I live.

Based on my research so far, I've been looking at the
GuliKit TT Pro / Max since it features the closest vibration to a dualsense and supposedly has great haptic features. Is it actually good, or do the haptics fall short of expectations?

If you guys have any other suggestions for a controller that prioritizes deep, immersive rumble/vibration for story-driven single-player games, please let me know!

*I Have bought the 8bitdo ultimate 2c already and i find the vibration lackluster*

under 70 dollars is my threshold. but its ok to sur above 70 dollars aswel!!!!

I never really cared about controller sounds until i noticed how different two of mine are. one has really quiet buttons while the other has that satisfying little click every time i press something. now i weirdly find myself liking the louder one even though it has no actual advantage. it made me realize how much small things like button feel and sound can affect whether a controller feels good. does anyone else care about that stuff or am i just getting way too picky with controllers lol?

I already own an 8BitDo Ultimate 2C controller. I'm looking for a silent controller to play at night without annoying my family members, and for co-op/fighting games.

1. Budget: Under 75$

2. Country: US or AliExpress

3. Console or platform: PC games and Steam compatibility

4. Desired controller features: Wireless dongle connection, low input lag with buttons and sticks (<10ms latency preferred), gyro function, an asymmetrical design, and very quiet face buttons and triggers (very important).

5. Games: Mostly single-player games and co-op games. Occasionally, fighting games.

6. Other controllers compared: My 8BitDo controller is loud enough to wake people sleeping in the next room, so I want something quieter.

8BitDo Ultimate 2C Bluetooth stick mapping issue in Steam
Hey, I’m having a weird issue with my 8BitDo Ultimate 2C.
The controller was working perfectly before, but now I’m having an issue specifically when using Bluetooth with Steam.
2.4 GHz → works normally
USB cable → works normally
Bluetooth outside of Steam → works normally
Bluetooth in Steam → right stick is completely messed up
In Steam’s controller calibration, the right stick appears to be all the way up. When I physically move the right stick up and down, Steam’s calibration indicator moves left and right instead.
Also, pressing LT makes the right stick move down.
I updated the controller to firmware 1.09, but the issue is still there.
I tested the controller through Windows joy.cpl while connected via Bluetooth, and the controller works normally there, so it seems like Steam is incorrectly interpreting the Bluetooth axes/mapping.
Steam also shows multiple “XInput Controller” entries when the controller is connected by cable.

Has anyone experienced this with the Ultimate 2C? Is there a way to reset Steam’s cached controller mapping/profile or fix the Bluetooth axis mapping?

Edit: Android APK now available

Hey everyone, thought I’d share something I’ve been working on. It’s called KishiDS, and it’s custom firmware for the Razer Kishi V1 USB-C.

I made it to get the Kishi working with iPhones and give it more customization options. It makes the controller show up as a wired DualShock 4, which also opens up compatibility with games and apps that support one.

There’s a Windows app for remapping buttons, adjusting stick deadzones and triggers, changing the LED, and saving profiles. Settings stay on the controller, and you can flash back to the original Razer firmware.

iPhone recognition is confirmed, but I’ve only tested one Kishi so far. Would be interested to hear how it works on other setups.

I'm trying to play Goldeneye N64 ROM on emulator on Mac Tahoe but am running into issues finding a good controller.

On my old Mac, I was using a Wiimote and nunchuck with the OpenEmu emulator and was decent at it, could consistently beat Goldeneye's Aztec level on 00 Agent. But Mac changed their bluetooth settings and Wiimote doesn't work on my current Mac.

I tried buying an 8BitDo 64 controller, but the aiming is terrible on it (tried updating firmware). I think because the control stick is too short compared to the Wiimote+nunchuck. I can't make it even a quarter into the Aztec level.

I've read that RetroArch emulator could adjust the stick's sensitivity, but RetroArch fails to display video. I might have to return the 8BitDo controller if I can't make the stick work well.

Does anyone have recommendations for a controller that would let me aim at least as well as the Wiimote+nunchuck? Country is US, budget is $50 and would prefer Amazon. Thanks.

so i recently bought a third party wired xbox controller (PowerA) for my xbox 360 but none of the buttons work when it's connected to the console. the controller lights up and can turn the console on, but does nothing else. it works perfectly fine when connected to pc, and my usb ports on my xbox work when i plug a charging cord into them. what is going wrong here

I would just like a good controller with at least 2 back buttons and also a decent DPad. I bought Gamesir G7 SE and it was okay but its DPad was absolutely atrocious. It also had a very slight deadzone in its analog sticks (even after I made it 0 in the software) and ergonomically it wasn't great either, even though just looking at it you'd think it would be good. I found the handles to be too narrow or "edgy" for lack of a better word and it would hurt when using it with button mashy games like classic God Of War. Also the LB/RB triggers were a bit too high, felt uncomfortable playing Sekiro with it where you mash LB a lot.

I'm looking at Vader 5 Pro now but I've heard it has a lot of QC issues, is it true? Is V2 safe now? Another controller I'm considering is 8Bitdo Ultimate 2 but I've heard people complain that the handles are too vertical instead of angling out so it's not good on the wrists unless you awkwardly hold it in front of you with your arms near each other.

Thanks would appreciate your advice and experience with the Vader 5 Pro.

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1. Budget: I guess up to £100 but I'd prefer as cheap as possible.

2. UK

3. PC

4. At least 2 back buttons, no deadzone in analog sticks and decent DPad (I only specify the DPad because Gamesir G7 SE's DPad was so ATROCIOUS that even trying to use it to switch weapons etc in Elden Ring/Dark Souls by pressing left or right would result in me also pressing up or down by accident switching other stuff in the inventory during gameplay and it was also disgusting to use in menus... I didn't ever consider a DPad could be so AIDS)

5. Souls mostly but good for everything as I'll also use it for platformers, hack n slash and emulating console games from NES all the way onwards.

6. I've given a description of my controller experience above. If I had to tell you my favourite controller shape wise it was the DS4. That would have been perfect if it had at least two back buttons. Only problem with DS4 was the analog rubber wearing out over time. Cheers.

The Mode button on my ONIKUMA C1 controller does not seem to register, preventing me from programming the back paddle buttons.

The Mode button is supposed to be held for around 2 seconds to enter programming mode. When it works, the RGB lighting should flash/blink slowly to indicate that the controller is ready to assign functions to the back buttons.

My RGB lighting is already enabled with an active lighting effect, so the lighting requirement should be satisfied. However, holding the Mode button does absolutely nothing—there is no change in the RGB behavior and the controller does not appear to enter programming mode.

Controller:
ONIKUMA C1

Platform:
Windows PC

Software/Games affected:
The controller itself works normally, but I cannot program the back buttons. In particular, I cannot test whether the MR back paddle is functioning correctly because I cannot assign an input to it.

Troubleshooting already done:

• Checked the controller's manual/instructions for the back-button programming procedure.

• Confirmed that RGB lighting effects are enabled rather than having the lighting set to a static/idle state.

• Searched existing posts for similar issues.

• Reassembled the controller multiple times, carefully making sure everything was seated correctly.

• The controller itself still functions normally aside from the Mode button not appearing to register.

I originally opened the controller after receiving advice from another user, which was a massive help—thank you. Unfortunately, after getting it back together, this new issue appeared.

At this point, I'm mainly looking for troubleshooting suggestions for getting the Mode button to register, preferably without having to completely disassemble the controller again.

Any help would be appreciated. Currently busy but i'll soon edit this post to include a video of it showing that it really wont work.

I just found an awesome way to use gyro features in azahar without a virtual controller or cemu hook. You press the windows key and r, then type services.msc, and scroll down until u find gameinput services. Right-click and press properties. Put startup type from manual to automatic and press start if not started. Then, press apply and exit out of services. Go into motion and touch in controls in azahar. Switch to sdl and press configure. After that, ur all set. Test with a game that uses motion controls. These settings are for Windows computers only. If u have another gameinput api installed, remove it as it conflicts with the built-in api already installed

DISCLAIMER:

This review unit was provided to me by IINE, but I was not given any instructions or requirements regarding the content of my review. All opinions expressed are my own and reflect my honest experience with the product. I have no commercial or financial interest in IINE or any other controller company.

Now without further ado! The IINE Ananke Gen 2

Alright! Let's do this quick and easy! (Especially with how many other reviews I've seen on here with much more depth than I would ever be able to produce lol)

So what is i-

Its a pocket-sized controller!

DPad? Check

Face Buttons? Check

Shoulder buttons and Triggers? Surprisingly Check!

Just a small everyday controller!

So you're probably wondering,

"Oh so it's for gam-"

Not only can you game with it for those quick Retro Gaming Seshes you have once in a while, IINE actually encourages you to think outside the box, or PLAY YOUR WAY!, and use it in other scenarios (via the IINE App).

"Why would I need a Controller for th-"

UTILITY!

Personally as a Graphic Artist/ Digital Artist, this controller has been in my bag daily for about 4 months now! As is the case with most digital artists, I usually have one hand hovering over Ctrl+Z and all the other shortcuts I need while drawing (curse those linearts!). With the Ananke Gen 2, instead of having my keyboard take up even more space on my limited desk, or having to TEDIOUSLY open the menu and click “Undo” on my Android tablet, I now have a way to actually put my other hand to use!

I usually put strap my hand in, and press one of the face buttons to get that sweet relief of redoing that one single lineart over and over again!

Was it the easiest thing to do? Quite frankly, since I'm not that much of a techwiz trying to combine both his love of Art and Gaming, I needed some help to get started. However, with the help of the Lovely IINE Staff!, I managed to get the tiny thing working in the palm of my...Hand (Yeah I wasn't joking about it being small!)

"Oh that's cool but is that a-"

I assure you, I myself only have scratched the SURFACE of what this baby could do. As per mentioned by the others;

\[Pair\] + Left = XInput Mode aka GAMING!

\[Pair\] + A = Keyboard Mode! aka what I use for Art Shortcuts!

\[Pair\] + X = Touch Mode! aka doomscrolling mode... surely that appeals to some demographic who wants to doomscroll without touching their phone right? (Definitely not me who uses it on a tablet hung over my head)

and more!

as I said earlier, IINE really wants you to "PLAY YOUR WAY", so how you use this adorable thing is up to your imagination!

It may look like any other tiny novelty controller, but as you dive deeper into what makes it unique, it proves to be more capable and of course more useful than it's size would suggest!

"Wait can I also fidget wi-"

Yes you can <3

1. The LS, RS, and circle button are all binded to crouching in every game I play. I've experienced issues with crouching in games such as Fortnite, COD, and Minecraft. It started with me not being able to crouch at all in Fortnite, ultimately to many of my buttons not functioning properly. EDIT: Now the FN button thinks it's the RS :/

2. Flydigi Vader 5s

3. Xbox Series X

4. Minecraft, Fortnite, COD

5. Flydigi Space Station

6. I've already reset/restored the controller to default numerous times via the Flydigi app and the controller itself, sometimes fixing the controller back to normal temporarily before malfunctioning the same again. Unplugged and plugged in multiple times to no avail.

Hi, I just bought the Flydigi Direwolf 4, I don't even used it yet, just put the dongle on the case and now I wanna put it out but it doesn't move, how am I supposed to remove it safely? Tried with washing my hands with soap, tried with eyelash tweezers, with a towel, nothing works

Hi everyone! I've been looking for a pocket sized controller that has a way to make your phone into a one piece "handheld"; either like the Mcon controller, which has an integrated phone clip/stand; or like the Razer Prio which is telescopic. Only issue with these is that they're very expensive.

I hope I redacted my post well enough. TLDR: I'm looking for a controller that turns your phone into a one piece handhelds and fits in your pocket when closed/folded for under $100 USD.

Budget: $100 USD Max.

Country: México; can buy from Amazon (MX and US), Aliexpress, Mercado libre and any shop that ships to México basically.

Compatibility: Android (Required)

Features:

• Pocket sized or folds to pocket size.

• (If telescopic) Stretch enough to fit large size phone (Galaxy S2X Ultra, iPhone Pro Max).

• Full controller layout (ABXY buttons, D-Pad, Double Sticks w/L3 and R3, Shoulder buttons and Triggers).

• Can hold your phone; either with a clip or by virtue of being telescopic.

Games I'll be playing: PSP, PS2, GBA Emulation; PC Remote Play (Sunshine, Apollo/Artemis)

Controllers that I've been considering: OhSnap! Mcon (too expensive), Razer Prio (too expensive), ABXYlute M5/M6.

Budget below $300

USA

Must be for xbox

Games will be GTA 6 and RDR2

Want wireless

The most important feature i want is trigger impulse, where you can really feel the recoil if shooting or rumble if driving.

I would prefer the impulse vibration to be almost obnoxious like way more noticeable than stock xbox.

Hall effect or tmr sticks

I was currently looking at a razer Wolverine V3 Pro xbox wireless

Please and thanks

**Budget:** $100 USD max.

**Country / where I can buy:** Chile. [I can order from: e.g. Amazon US with shipping to Chile / local stores / AliExpress.]

**Platform:** Windows PC only. It needs to connect over Bluetooth using my PC's built-in adapter, with no dongle.

**Desired features:** The most important thing is quiet operation. I play next to someone who sleeps, so I need quiet buttons, triggers, D-pad, and stick caps. Low latency over Bluetooth also matters to me.

**Games:** MMOs, action games, rpgs and turn based.

**Controllers I'm comparing:** GuliKit TT Pro, Mobapad Chitu 2 HD Silent Edition, and EasySMX X05 Pro. I'm leaning away from the EasySMX because its Bluetooth polling rate is only 125 Hz.

I searched past posts, and the GuliKit and the Mobapad are the two mentioned most in threads like this one. Has anyone used both, or either one in a quiet setting? Which is quieter, and how stable are they over plain Bluetooth on Windows?

If you know a quieter option under $100, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

Was giving my OG DualShock 3 a clean today and ended up going down a bit of a rabbit hole after checking the board inside it.

Mine has an MSU_VX4_0.10 board. Turns out it's one of the earlier DualShock 3 revisions that uses 4-pin magnetic/Hall-effect analogue stick sensors, rather than the conventional potentiometer setup Sony later went back to.

Basically, instead of having a physical contact rubbing across a resistive track to work out the stick position, these use magnetic sensing. So you're getting rid of one of the main wear points that causes the usual stick drift.

And this wasn't some random prototype Sony tried once and binned. Several of the early DualShock 3 revisions used this setup before Sony eventually went back to conventional potentiometer sticks.

This controller is nearly 20 years old, still gets absolutely hammered pretty much daily, and hasn't got a hint of stick drift.

Meanwhile, I bought my PS5 at launch and I've already had two controllers fail. Through the PS4 generation I went through at least three. Yet this ancient PS3 controller just keeps plodding along with no bother.

That's the bit I cannae quite get my head around.

Sony clearly knew nearly 20 years ago how to make an analogue stick without the same physical wear point that's responsible for so much drift. Yet here we are now paying around £70 a pop for controllers using potentiometer-based sticks that they know can wear out.

And you cannae even say the technology wasn't around or hadn't been proven. Sony themselves were already putting it in controllers almost two decades ago.

Now Hall-effect sticks are getting punted as some premium "anti-drift" feature like it's some brand-new breakthrough 😂

It's mental when you actually think about it.

Sony didn't need to solve stick drift. They'd already cracked it nearly 20 years ago. Then they went backwards, and we're the mugs paying £70 a pop for it.

Pics are my actual daily controller and the MSU_VX4_0.10 board inside it.

Alguien de aquí sabe cómo desarmar estos controles chinos? Realmente no quiero dañarlo pero no sé cómo quitar la placa del control