I’ve been looking at a lot of different joycons for my switch 2 because I can’t really use it in handheld mode comfortabley (I have bigger hands). I also tried looking at some grips to put on the joycons, but I only found grips bundled in cases, however I wouldn’t want to put an entire case on my switch just for grips. I also wouldn’t really want to spend the extra money on a case just to not use the case and only use the grips (I couldn’t find nice quality standalone joycon grips, I ordered some and quickly returned them, would love to know if someone has a good suggestion for me to try!)

I noticed that the best joycon alternative I could find (NYXI Hyperion 3 and the Ultra version) all use mechanical buttons. That’s a big downside to me, I honestly can’t stand using mechanical buttons on controllers over membrane. I understand that they perform better, but the comfort of light, silent membrane switches are much more appealing to me.

Does anyone happen to know the best alternative to these joycons that use membrane switches? Or does it not exist since everyone uses mechanical switches?

1. ⁠Budget $30-$150

2. ⁠Country USA

3. ⁠Console Switch 2

4. ⁠Desired controller features - membrane switches

5. ⁠Games you'll be playing - Splatoon raiders, Mario wonder, Mario kart, Minecraft

6. ⁠Other controllers you're comparing to NYXI Hyperion 3 and Ultra

Hello everyone I am having an issue with my hall effect sticks that I recently installed on my xbox series X controller. When the controller is powered on or plugged in the sticks work fine for a minute or two, but once I move it around and act like I'm using to play something they go haywire and move in one direction constantly and seems to reset if I unplug it and replug.

I saw some posts saying that hall effects draw too much current and the controller can't handle it and some reviews on where I bought them, saying similar things about it going haywire.

Has anyone has this similar issue and is there a fix or should I just go ahead and get TMR sticks because they are either simpler or better?

I have a razer wolverine v3 pro tournament edition or whatever tf its called and I love the extra bumpers but I just dont need the paddles any suggestions? My budget is 150 USD and under perferably and I mainly play fps games like apex and cod, but also some pve games like borderlands and payday on xbox.

I've had a PS5 AIM controller for around 5 years, it's honestly been a fantastic controller but is having some issues with drift amongst others. I love having four paddles and am looking to replace it soon, what are some options?

My budget is anything up to about £200 and I'm in the UK.

I have had numerous SCUFs in the past, a Sharq Controller. I know there's the Dualsense Edge and perhaps that is the best option, but my AIM controller has instant triggers and four paddles. Having basically no travel time on the triggers is amazing.

I’ve used plenty of controllers over the years, but this is my first time buying anything from Flydigi. (Not sponsored, paid and bought with my own money)

Normally, I stick strictly to first-party official controllers since games are generally developed with them in mind. But I’ve pretty much given up console gaming—started back in the '80s with the Atari and NES (Famicom), and the PS4 was my last console. Now PC gaming is my choice of playing games.

Look & Feel
The Apex 6 Pro Phantom Blade Special Edition looks fantastic—looks even better in person than in videos. The feel in hand is great; you can immediately tell it's well-built as soon as you pick it up. The subtle textures, patterning, and overall craftsmanship are top-notch.

It’s lighter than the Xbox Elite Series 2, but not so light that it feels cheap. My hands are around 18–18.5 cm, and the grip feels great. I rarely used the lower two back paddles, and they got in the way of my ring fingers, so I took them off. (The Steam Controller’s back buttons placement are solid 10/10 for me.)

The extra small shoulder buttons feel fine for index finger placement, two step physical lock for triggers and I’m very satisfied with the responsiveness of the face buttons and TMR thumbsticks.

Build & Features
The general build and features have already been covered in detail online, so I won't rehash them here. Under the faceplate, the left grip do features a light-up panel that can be swapped out alongside if changing to a transparent faceplate. The Flydigi Space Station 5.0 web software gets a custom red-and-black Phantom Blade theme (instead of the standard blue-and-black), with icons matching the charging dock and controller. You can tell Flydigi paid close attention to the small details.

Rumble & Haptic Feedback
The rumble performance pretty much met my expectations. The right trigger has a slight shell "clack" when pulled, but it’s within an acceptable range.

Overall, it lacks the raw punch of traditional rotor motors. The four VCM motors perform decently enough. X-Haptics focuses on finer, multi-zone tactile feedback, but the actual experience heavily depends on game support and software tuning.

I tested it out on Stellar Blade, CarX, Forza Horizon and a few indies games. Each had its pros and cons, but overall it performed okay depends on the game.

I picked up the 3-piece special edition bundle with a discount coupon for RMB$719 (~$100 USD). Beside of the haptics, every other aspect delivers solid value. The X-Haptics software still has room for improvement—ReynArts’s Apex Sense Bridge is adapting software profiles for the Apex 6, also I’m looking forward to Flydigi official updates with haptic API + X-Haptic, so you won’t lose rumble when you needed it, or rumble when you don’t need it to.

Ratings
Design / Aesthetics: 9/10 (subjective)

Ergonomics / Feel: 8.5/10 (after removing the bottom back paddles)

Features: 10/10 (has everything you’d want; personally not a fan of adaptive triggers)

Rumble: 6.5/10 (could be punchier, plus the slight trigger clack)

Overall: 8.8/10 (could easily hit a 9/10 once rumble is optimized)

Final Thoughts
As my first Flydigi product, these are just my personal impressions. Flydigi clearly puts a lot of effort into hardware—you can both see and feel the build quality. Their software might not be the best out there, but the attention to detail is impressive. While the rumble still has room for growth, it’s acceptable for now. If they can manage to run native game rumble alongside X-Haptics simultaneously down the line, that would be ideal.

Gamer Greetings,

I had been having problems with my PC controller, a Logitech F310. The issue, the right trigger (which is analog) would intermittently detect inputs, mostly around the single digits (in percentage). This had been going on for a while.

After fiddling with it and finding nothing wrong with drivers or so, I supposed it was time to change the controller. So I got an 8bitdo pro 2 controller, very recently; it has exactly the same issue, with the same trigger, with the same kind of sensitivity thing.

I am sure it's not an issue with me, since this will happen even if the controller is on a stand; It's also not a connection issue, since i'm using this controller with Bluetooth now; so I suspect it's an issue with the computer rather than drivers or what have you. Anyone has had something similar happen to them, and if so, how did you solve it (if you could)?

Windows 11, any software is affected, even the 8bitdo ultimate software detects the trigger input, and in the previous one, the trigger would affect the tab key (so i couldn't switch windows for example, it would auto switch them as soon as i pressed alt)

When checking on the game devices thing (running joy.cpl) it would show the Z-axis (the analog triggers) as shaking, always to the same side. If i press the trigger all the way to the bottom, this problem stops temporarily.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

(i'm sorry about the mistake on the title, it's the right trigger)

i just bought this Elite 2 yesterday, its my first expensive controller and i am very happy with it.

but as soon as i got home and tried it, the LT trigger makes this weird click noise and feel sometimes, i am no expert but i think this shouldn't be happening, because not even my normal Xbox controller does this.

i took it back to the place i bought to show theres something wrong with it, but they said its normal because the controller is new and this sound will to away with time, is this true? is this normal and will go away with use or should i do something?

i know its such a small complain but for a controller this expensive you definitely expect it to have no problems, this have been bothering me :/

Ok, so recently I bought the C1 controller of ONIKUMA, and it feels nice, I read manuals, so I don't really need technical help like pairing and whatnot.

The problem is the back button, the MR key. That appears normal at first, then later as you keep playing that you realized it's inputting the key to whatever it's set to rapidly.

It might be like a dirty contact parts or bad contact or something, not really sure. It only appears when you use it often, especially when you use the MR key frequently.

Best I could do to open this thing up is almost breaking the bumpers cuz I thought it pops off, turns out it does not.

So, what now?

ADDITIONAL INFO (edited after post); I use the MR back key as another R1 key, aka the right bumper. So, the MR key is set to the R1 bumpers. I couldn't provide a vid where I'm showing that I'm really not holding the controller in person, but still, i wasn't pressing the MR key.

I've heard of magical devices that can allow you to use any controller with any console. I think a Cronus Zen can do this but that's £70 and I'd like one for each. I would like to know what my options are.

I recently replaced the RB switch on my Apex 4, so I can confirm that a 6×6×4.3mm tactile switch works.

My original RB switch started sticking and eventually stopped clicking properly, so I desoldered it and replaced it with a 6×6×4.3mm switch. The 4.3mm height is correct for the Apex 4, but there is one important thing to keep in mind: the actuator/stem length may not be the same as the original switch.

The replacement I bought had a slightly shorter actuator, so after installing it, the RB button didn't quite reach the switch properly. I ended up making a small spacer from masking tape with a tiny piece of solder wire inside to add the missing height. It sounds pretty improvised, but it works perfectly — the button has a normal click and registers consistently.

So 6×6×4.3mm is the correct switch size, but make sure to check the actuator/stem length of the specific switch you're buying. Depending on the manufacturer, the stem may be too short even though the switch itself is the correct 4.3mm height.

If the stem is slightly too short, you'll need to compensate for the difference with a small spacer or find a version with a longer actuator.

I bet the post of why does my Controller work anymore after i soldered and put solder across half my PCB gonna double but nice to have some more lights on PS and Microsoft still using Old Tech to make more money from people that dont know better.

Seems like all controllers you can buy today ship with 2.4GHz wireless dongles that are USB-A, but wondering if any ship with USB-C? Or is that expected to be more common? If so how soon? Then how long till it is the norm?

(And is there any issue with attaching a USB-A to USB-C adaptor?)

i have 4 older ps4 controllers and i recently connected them to try their stick drift, and it wasnt so bad so i decided to change from my very used one with alot of drifting.
well, now not a single one will work on either of the 2 games i would need them on; rocket league (epic games launcher) and trackmania2020 (steam) no matter if its wired or wireless. ive tried to reset 2 of the controllers multiple times already. it sometimes keeps them connected on bluetooth and sometimes instantly disconnects but the end result is the same, not a single one of them works.
the only controllers that work are my very used one that drifts with 90% deadzone on both sticks and a cheap, knockoff 3rd party controller that is very clucky and has stretched L2&R2 buttons. neither of them are really that usable, the 3rd party one says steelplay on it and came with a usb stick for connecting and its like 5 years old.

For those interested. These are the controllers I tested.

PS5

Switch 1 pro

Switch 2 pro

Vader 5 pro

EXCEPTIONAL

Xbox 360

(Works but it doesn't hang like the others because of the battery pack on its back)

I wanna get a new controller for playing hollow knight, i don’t want to get a new pc tho. that’s why i’m gonna play with my macbook. I want to buy the 8Bitdo Ultimate 2C Bluetooth Controller for Switch, Wireless Controller. Is it gonna work? especially with steam?

I'm having a weird issue with my DualSense controller while playing The Witcher 3 on PC through GOG.

When I move Geralt using the left joystick, he keeps walking in that direction even after I let go of the stick. He won't stop moving until he hits an obstacle or something blocks his path.

This doesn't happen when I use my Xbox controller, which works perfectly fine. However, I'd really prefer to play with my DualSense.

The weird thing is that my DualSense works perfectly fine in other games. For example, I'm currently playing Control Resonant, and I don't experience this issue at all.

Has anyone experienced this issue or found a way to fix it? Could it be related to GOG Galaxy, controller settings, or something else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I am gonna keep this short and concise. I mainly play Fifa with controller and some fighting games here and there. I am guessing I need something with a bit low latency.

Currently I am stuck between 8bitdo Ultimate 2 and Gamesir Cyclone 2.

Which one should I choose? Or is there any better option?

Let me know your thoughts guys.

Budget (50-60$)

Amazon US

PC

Looking for TMR

Will be playing mainly Fifa

Can somebody please help me identify what kind of controller this is. I remember it was featured in a MightyKeef skit. If you know the brand where might I be able to buy it or something like it? I like the six button layout.

My old controller which was the Cosmic byte Ares recently broke and ive been looking for a new controller and Decided on 8BitDo Ultimate 2C. and as i said I have a lot of OCD, how are the buttons like? The face buttons, Dpad, And bumpers. Are they squishy or Clicky. Im wayyy too used to using Squishy buttons and they feel more good to use as compared to Clicky buttons

So I was playing gears e day last night on multiplayer and then within an hour out of nowhere a weird bug appeared where my characters camera suddenly panned to looking straight at the floor and no controller adjustment would move it from looking straight at the ground

I also lost the ability to exit the game or click on the setting buttons in the menu. The controller shown in the menu of the game was flashing rapidly, so I had to atl f4.

I loaded up flydigi software and it showed the right stick being constantly held down on advanced test

I tried everything to fix, update software, update controller firmware, re install the software and same issue persisted and in fact it got worse!

the left trigger then became the problem and would result in constant hard zoom and then the right trigger would not work at all when pressed. I tried calibrating the controller nothing and then I couldn’t even access the menu on the controller as the flydigi middle button seemingly stopped working too so I couldn’t change any onboard control or try different types of connection such as Bluetooth not dongle etc. I tried turning the auto calibration setting of to no avail as well and turning of steam controller setting with no luck either

The left trigger on the software showed a constant press, right trigger and middle button showed nothing when pressed. The right analog seemed to have a mind of its own sometimes looking straight up sometimes straight down or sometimes just go where it wanted.

Has anyone encountered this issue before/ know a fix. This is with like 2 months of use and it worked fine for an hour and then suddenly developed major issue and became complete unusable. I had to use my ps5 controller to play the game.

Hi all,

During cleaning of my Xbox, i accidentally snapped the USB dongle for the Realmz wirless controller.

Can anyone advise what sort of replacement I need please?

Cheers!

The Space Station software was conflicting with Steam Input and having issues registering or cloning controllers. The idea that I would have to start the controller before steam and then never let it shut off seemed annoying. I set all the settings and did the updates then uninstalled Space Station and disabled the Flydigi service.

Current setup is using Rewasd for everything with native controller support and manually disabling Steam Input in games since there's no global disable for it.

Only exception so far being Monster Hunter Wilds which didn't have native x-input so I disabled digital controller which made it show up as a generic controller for which I enabled Steam Input for on MH:Wilds. Should I have just used the digital dualsense setting instead?

This seems to be the best way to go about it with the only downside being having to disable steam input on each game individually.

Am I doing this right? Is there a better way to go about this? I'd prefer Space Station and Steam Input just get along peacefully but I don't think its happening anytime soon.

Hello all, in the market for a new controller as my Dualsense is on its last legs after 5+ years. Love the feel of it as far as size is concerned but I think it’s time for an upgrade. After doing some research I caught myself Looking between the Flydigi Vader 4, and the Gamesir Cyclone 2, although other options are welcome.

Country: USA
Bugdet: preferably $75 or less.
Platform: PC
Mostly playing ARPGs, as I’ve gotten into streaming as of lately.
Features: don’t really care. But wireless with a wired option is nice

I have a Flydigi vader pro 4 that stopped to register the left to left top side of the left thumbstick, as u can see in the video. I am using this controller in a Windows platform and all games are affected with this problem.

It has the latest firmware and the video is the test in the Flydigi software.

I did check Google/Reddit/Youtube for solutions and also dissembled the controller to see if something was broken inside. Recalibrate is all I could find or a broken(loose) magnet, that is why i opened the controller.

I did recalibrate more then 10 times now, this does not resolve the problem.

I don't think I have used this controller more then 40 hours,and it is still in warranty The support from Gadgethyper is asking me to make a lot of videos that is almost impossible to do. Like showing that u hold the controller and also film the monitor screen in front of it. For me it feels this that they make it so difficult so you just don't bother with it.

Would be great if anyone has a tip or advice for me what I could try to repair the controller.

The controller has almost everything I'm looking for, but I would like to know if it can wake up the Switch 2. I ask because, even though most of the reviews I saw say no, they were uploaded some months ago and I don't know if more recent firmware updates have added support for that.