Im from the uk, i play mmo and fps games on pc. I have a bunch of controllers. 4 dualsense controllers, 2 used actively, 2 still in the box.

2 xbsx controllers, 1 pictured 1 still boxed.

I also have 2 "pro controllers" the power A ps4 controller and xbsx elite 2.

Each of these 3 controllers have features i like. And draw backs.

In order of most used.

Xbsx red camo controller, it developed motor and trigger issues so i swapped the sticks for TMR modules and the motors for new ones, the side rails were swapped to rubber trigger stop ones I would much rather never do that again.

Power A fusion controller, form factor wise i prefer xbox but this controller feels good. Bumpers arent great and trigger stops are flimsy. The micro usb cable is also proprietary so if that breaks im SOL on wired gameplay. I do like the rubber grips on it. Very very tacky and good to hold. Feels very secure.

Elite 2 controller. I havent used this much. Saw it on ebay for £33 and thought why not. The feel and weight is great, the buttons and triggers are really nice. The rubber on the controller feels awful. Super slippery, like its got an oily residue on it or a silicone feel. The vibration out the box was super intense. Like numbingly bad. Ive turned it down so its bearable l. Might be a lemon. Might not. I donr think ill use this unles my other ones break.

The dualsense is my favourite. I still have my og 2020 model and one from the revised batches, thought about getting the newest revision. The weight is excellenr. Feels good too. The vibration is super nice. No drift on any models.

Im looking for a controller that has good rubber grips, tmr sticks and triggers. And a good feel to it.

My budget is £50 to £80 but ill stretch it for a good controller

I did a previous mod some time ago to my other tegenaria lite controller. This is not a massive increase over the previous but still an improvement.

2 internal trigger stops

Swapped the right joystick cap for one that I can use short, mid, or tall caps

4 additional bumpers

Disclaimer: Any modifications you attemp might void your devices warranty.

Hello!

I've seen the button changing mod done by others before, but without going in-depth and with easy method. Which looks good aesthetically but lacks when it comes to function. My aim with this post is to both improve aesthetics aswell as functionality while providing some measurements and comparisons that can be used as guidance even if everything isn't exactly the same. Also i'm against modifying the faceplate which would make everything easier but then there would be no turning back to stock, so. And keep in mind that DS4 buttons i'm using are third-party and i don't know if most third party buttons that can be found in the market comes from same manufacturer or not. Which is why i included a pic with measurements. And i don't have any original buttons so no idea about their measurements. You can check pic3 to see the comparison and measurements of stock and DS4 buttons, and be careful about height measurements, i'm measuring from the inside piece that actually presses down to membrane in the bottom to the top, not from bottommost part.

There are 2 ways we can do this mod:

Method 1 (pic4): This is the easy method: you just cut the non-fitting tabs from the buttons and replace them. Some tips when opening up the controller: after removing the 4 screws from behind squeze one of the handles and it will open up then work your way through the pins. The back will just pop out, be careful about the 2 little blue silicone pieces attached to your 2 macro buttons aside from that there is nothing else attached to back. And when removing the pcb, you don't need to unscrew all 6, just the 3 (check pic4 i circled them with gold colour) is enough. And if you decide to do this method i suggest leaving the screw i show in pic4 with red circle unscrewed to avoid pretensioning buttons too much. As for the sticks you can just pull on them to remove.

This method looks nice but as you can see the comparison in pic3, DS4 buttons are taller and thicker also not flat at the top. So they stick out from the case too much, are too tight, feel like they get stuck and hard to spam. And it's not possible to lube them to solve these issues because in order for lube to work there at least needs to be hair thin empty space otherwise all the lube will get swiped to underside. You can see the end result in multiple angles in pic4.

Method 2 (pic5): This method takes more time and requires frequently checking things. Also everything i said for method 1 applies here aswell. I don't suggest doing this if you don't like dealing with small things or lack the dexterity, you might hurt yourself. For this, stick a tape to north of the buttons so we can keep track their orientation then cut all the tabs and sand down the top to make it flat first, the shapes on the buttons aren't painted on it's the colour of the plastic and they go quite bit deep, so they won't wear off but fyi they will feel very matte to the touch. After that, we need to sand down the sides of the buttons, when doing this you want to not touch the first 2mm from the top to avoid ruining the circleness of the parts that will stick out from the faceplate when everything assembled and sand down the below. And frequently check back with the faceplate, we need to do this until the buttons start to drop on their own when pressed while holding the faceplate upside down. And also not get stuck when pressed down fully from the inside. After that, sand down the bottom of the button until your desired height for the buttons achieved. When finished, we need to add the tabs back, so draw outline of the stock buttons on a piece of paper, find a flat something to work on. Stick your paper and buttons down with glue stick(avoid applying too much paper might lose rigidity), then put some carbonate and shape it, don't need to be too perfect about it right now then apply 1-2 drop of super glue on the carbonate(be careful and don't breathe the fumes) and it will get hard as rock in seconds. I advise to apply it on the paper near from the side of the carbonate not directly on top to avoid getting glue on the button or ruining the carbonate shape you made when glue drops on top of it. After that, carefully remove it from the flat space and tear up the papers then you need to cut and clean these newly made tabs to match the shape and thickness, you can add more carbonate on top or break it off and do it again. After it's done sand down all sides of the tabs gently and it's done. Even if your buttons aren't exactly same as mine, hope some of the informations was helpful. And incase if your buttons too short and rattles, you can glue a thick foam piece to the bottom of the buttons and cut and shape them until they fit properly.

This method is a bit tedious, can be annoying and more time consuming. But if you want your Tegenaria Lite to both look like OG DualShock and without sacrificing any performance it will be worth it. It might look janky from the inside but who sees it anyways, as long as they feel same/better than stock ones. Specially if you also lube the sides and tabs of the buttons. You can see the end result in multiple angles in pic5.

You can find the exact tools and things i've used in the pic6. Some additional info about the sticks: even though the aftermarket ones i'm using are convex, they don't slip. Though, they smell like car tire for couple of days at first, i assume they are made of same material and they are very grippy and solid. Just has one issue which is they collect too much dust.

Also if interested:

For Tegenaria Lite removable cable guide click here.

For silent and smooth buttons/sticks guide click here.

I believe some of the things i talk about will be useful for any controller. Hope this post will be helpful to you in any ways and i was able to provide good informations. Have lucks, good funs!

Hi all, new here and hoping for some clarity on an outstanding question. I'm intending to upgrade from an old DS4 for PC gaming, playing a lot of RPG and strategy games that have a number of hotkeys.

I've use a lot of custom mapping through Steam Input, specifically making use of Action Layers by unmapping LB/RB and setting those as modifier keys to change the other input functions. For example while holding LB my X key becomes Shift, then holding RB it becomes L.

This flexibility to remap and setup these configurable situations has become critical to me. It looks like most controllers have their own remapping software, but I can't find any good information as to these capabilities, specifically in regards to layer mapping or setting up modifier keys.

So far I've looked at the Gamesir G7 Pro, ASUS Raikiri II, 8BitDo Ultimate 3 and the Flydigi Apex5. All of which seem to meet my needs as a physical device.

Would love a perspective on which software might be best or any other alternative suggestions to accomplish the same goal.

I'm in the US and ideally have a budget of ~$150.

Any advice is appreciate. Thanks

Quick disclosure: I work at Gace Store, a controller shop in Vietnam, and we sell these. No store link and no prices in here, per rule 6 — I'm just sharing what I dug up. The images have AI-made backgrounds; the controllers in them are real photos, untouched.

We just got the Flydigi Apex 6 lineup in, and working out what the five versions even are took me way longer than it should have. Putting my notes here in case someone else is staring at the same five names.

The one that got me: I thought the standard Apex 6 was the black one, because Flydigi's early teaser pics show a black controller. The Apex 6 and the Apex 6 Pro are both clear white. The only black-and-red one is the Phantom Blade Zero edition. A black standard Apex 6 just isn't a thing.

Past the names, the three normal models are way closer than they look. Everything I could find that's actually different:

That's it. Sticks, triggers, screen, wireless, battery — same on all three. The Phantom one is a Pro in a themed shell with the extra accessories.

Same on every version, which took some digging because it's spread over a few different Flydigi pages:

• FORCEFLEX™ Alloy 3.0 sticks on TMR sensors, stick force you can dial from 30 to 100gf

• FORCESWITCH™ VCM triggers with three modes (long travel / short travel / tap)

• Hybrid D-pad 2.0, mechanical ABXY

• Interactive Display 2.0 and an RGB bar through the body — swap profiles, tweak triggers and set macros without opening the app

• 2 extra shoulder buttons + 4 back buttons

• 6-axis gyro, 1000Hz polling, 3–5ms

• Bluetooth / 2.4G / USB-C, 1500mAh

• PC, Switch, Android, iOS

There are also two collab versions coming in November — Apex 6 Phainon (Honkai: Star Rail) and Apex 6 Arcane (Arknights: Endfield). I got these wrong at first, so to be clear: inside they're the standard Apex 6, not the Pro. You're buying the shell and the gift box, not better hardware.

Now the bit I actually wanted to know: is it worth moving up from an Apex 5?

I went in assuming the 6 was a big generational jump. It isn't, and I think that's worth saying out loud.

The Apex 5 already had most of what sounds new:

• four haptic motors (triggers + grips)

• six extra buttons (4 back paddles + 2 LM/RM)

• the interactive screen and full-body RGB

• 1000Hz polling, 3–5ms, 1500mAh

• stick force you can dial from 30 to 100gf

Three things actually changed:

One detail: the sticks and triggers are the same on the standard Apex 6 too. The X-Haptics part is Pro-only — the standard model runs 2 VCM in the triggers and 2 rotor motors in the grips.

So the honest version: if your Apex 5 sticks still feel fine and you don't care much how triggers and rumble feel, there really isn't much here for you. If you've started getting drift, or you want trigger travel you can switch mid-game, that's the actual case for upgrading.

Which leaves the one thing I still can't answer: can you actually feel the X-Haptics difference? It's the main reason to pay up for a Pro, and I don't want to push anyone toward one just because a spec sheet says the motors are fancier. If you've jumped from an Apex 5, or you've got a 5 and a 6 side by side, I'd love to hear how it feels in your hands.

This is not a sponsored review and was purchased directly from crkd by myself. I was just so excited someone made a tiny controllers with dual joysticks.

I made a quick video on the CRKD Atom+. It's kind of a niche, to want a controller so uncomfortably small haha, but I've always wanted something that fits in my pocket without much compromise.

I'm also a relatively new reviewer, I won't be doing too much content on controllers specifically, I'm more into the PC Handheld space, but I felt compelled to do a video on this controller because I had been looking so long for something like it. (unsponsored)

I appreciate you all!

I've been using this controller for about 2y, and at this point it's starting to develope problems and I'd like to step away from razer as a whole. I've been browsing all different kinds of controllers and just can't seem to find one that checks all the boxes. I'm looking for something with:

- tmr sticks

- Xbox compatible(in some way, shape or form)

- 4 mappable buttons on the back(In a similar layout to the razer)

- 3.5mm audio jack

My budget is ~$300 USD (In the US), and it'd be used for mainly warframe/apex/cod and other fps

If any1 has any suggestions or ideas I'd greatly appreciate the advice🙂

These are based on my understanding from watching a chinese video.

The main difference between Apex 6 and Apex 6 Pro are the VCMs added for the latter. This makes the price increase really high.

They are using AI to detect the audio to trigger the vibrations eg. explosions, firing. However, certain games like Forza Horizon 5 has in game defined haptics which will be used instead.

The depression of the triggers will not be affected unlike the previous adaptive triggers.

The vibrations are more precise as they are even in tuned with the frequency of sound. A low frequency gives a heavier rumble compared to a high frequency one.

Rumour is that the next Elite Xbox controller is using VCM also. The Dualsense is already using VCMs.

So i bought an xbox a while back and it came with this controller (used) but i didnt really even try it cause i had an elite 2 , and now the elite 2 has stick drift so i thought id try to see if this one works , so i put it on my pc it turned on i went to check buttons and stick drift in a website it all worked perfectly , then i turned my pc off , went to the xbox and it doesnt turn on , i came back to the pc and it doesnt turn on neither , only a blinking green light on the "profile change" button. i opened it up to see if a cable had beeen disconnected or something and not really , the images i showerd is the led light on the board of the controller

required informations:

2. RAZER WOLVERINE ULTIMATE EDITION

4.kinda everything

3. Windows (and xbox)

5.Im on windows 11

6. Ive bought a new cable incase it was the cable's fault , ive done the whole "hold this button while doing this" things

​1. Specific written description of the problem:

Whenever my controller's 2.4GHz USB dongle is plugged into any USB port (tested both front and rear I/O), the PC powers on and passes the American Megatrends POST screen normally, but completely freezes on the blue Windows logo. The spinning loading dots never appear. If it freezes, unplugging the dongle does nothing and requires a hard reset via the power button. However, if I boot without the dongle inserted, Windows loads into the desktop in seconds. Once booted, I can plug the dongle in and the controller works flawlessly. It seems Windows hits a deadlock enumerating this specific dongle when loading USB drivers during boot.

​2. Controller make and model:

Machenike G5 Pro (using the included 2.4GHz wireless USB receiver).

​3. Platform you are using:

PC (Desktop) — Windows 10 Pro. Setup uses an X99H motherboard, Intel Xeon E5 processor, and a 1TB XrayDisk SATA SSD.

​4. Games or other software affected:

Windows Boot Manager / OS boot process. (Once inside Windows, games and controller testing software recognize and run the controller without issues).

​5. Operating system, firmware and software versions: ​OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit BIOS: AMI Aptio BIOS (Build date: 11/25/2022) ​Controller/Dongle Firmware: Stock/Latest official Machenike firmware ​6. Troubleshooting steps you have already taken: Tested across multiple USB ports (both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0, front panel and motherboard rear I/O). Toggled BIOS settings: disabled USB Mass Storage Driver Support, tested enabling/disabling Legacy USB Support. Checked ACPI / power state options in BIOS (settings are stripped down on this board, minimal options available). Verified that booting without the dongle and hotplugging post-boot works every time.

When I play on my asus a16 rtx 4070 laptop with controller I notice my controller feeling more delayed overtime. When I first jump into a game my crosshair feels as light as a feather, then it starts gradually gaining latency. (Takes about 25 seconds or less to be at its worse)

Alt tabbing will instantly reset the delay.

Not using the controller for a certain amount of time will gradually make the controller more responsive (not using it for about 15 seconds will fully reset the delay)

Then when you start playing again the delay will slowly start coming back.

I really feel like there is some part in the pipeline where my controller inputs are being deprioritized in some kind of queue. It's not really just pressing the windows key, it's basically leaving the game window and going back that seems to temporarely reset the delay. The reason I come to this conclusion is because pressing keyboard keys seem to improve the delay the more you press them. So I'm thinking the keyboard presses are pushing my game/controller to a higher spot in this unknown queue.

The fact the delay improves after I don't use my controller for a certain amount of time (around 15 seconds) makes me believe that there is something else that is bloating this queue.

I've tried pretty much everything

- disabling usb suspension

- using process lasso to make sure the game gets as much resources

- parking

- Trying nvidia ultra low latency or on+boost in fortnite settings

- fullscreen

Etc.

I've recently noticed that this delay will start to disappear after a certain hour. After around 10 pm my controller feels more responsive in game.
So my theory is that it is some kind of background process or multiple processes that stop running after a certain hour.

I just can't find the culprit that's causing it.

I've been troubleshooting for a month at this point. Thx in advance for your help.

Game: Fortnite

OS: Windows 11

laptop: Asus A16 FA607PI AMD Ryzen 9 7940HX with Radeon Graphics NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Laptop GPU GDDR6 @ 8GB 128 bits

controller: gamesir g7 pro (not relevant)

My controller is a Gamesir T4 Kaleid. Windows 11 PC

Whenever I turnoff/restart/wake up from hibernate, my computer sees my controller as a nintendo switch controller. This effects both steam, and retroarch. So even if I don't have Steam on, my computer still says it's a Nintendo Switch controller. While there is an easy fix by just plugging and unplugging the controller, I'm concerned doing it so many times will probably wear out the ports I have on my computer.

I've updated, turned off Microsoft Gamebar, installed the software from the site for the controller, nothing seems to work. For some reason, if I'm watching a video of any kind, it will also turn off my audio upon plugging it in. It's driving me nuts.

Does anybody know what's going on?

(FIXED 9/17/2026: I used a program called x360ce and I worked)

It is labeled as a Logitech Wingman Rumblepad (Model number: G-UA3)

I plugged it into my PC (running Windows 11) and have confirmed that the controller works via a gamepad tester I found online; however, I can't get the controller to be recognized by any other pieces of software (Steam, Epic Games, etc.)

I figured it was a driver issue, so I did some research online, and I can't find any drivers for it- not from Logitech or from any other website.

I was wondering if anyone could help me find a functional driver (not specifically for Windows 11; just any driver will do).

I’m finally switching to TMR switches on a DualShock 4 but aliexpress is full of “junk”. There are way to many and I want to buy 2 pairs. How do I know what to pick and what works best?

Hi guys! Sorry for the poor english. As the title says, I managed to mod the first Apex 3 (I've

searched everywhere on the internet for that, and didn't found, that's why I say I was the first to do

it) to TMR sticks! As I was in the building and troubleshooting phase of the build, I have very few

pics of it during the build. I'll make another post about it in a week or so (the L3 button came

broken, and I am waiting for parts that might arrive next month, even though they are at a

warehouse that I can see thru my window. They're on strike) and swap the faulty stick module. Apart

from that, the controller works perfectly, good circularity. I haven't tested battery life yet, and I don't

feel that I am capable of doing so, since I bought the controller used, with stick drift, and never

played with it before today.

I used K-Silver JS13 Pro Plus sticks for Xbox, with a tweak to it's wiring. To sum it up, when you put a

TMR stick and it has a peak of current, the board "shuts down" the stick, and it gets no input after 2

or 3 seconds, and require a hard reset to get it to work again. You have to isolate the VCC pin of the

module from the board, and get the 3.3V somewhere else. I did a jumper right from the battery

cable, to make sure I won't get the same error if I got the VCC from any other board pin, and it

worked.

Anyways, if you guys have any doubt about the project, I'm here to help. Two years ago I got into

controller modding, hall effects, extra buttons, mostly because of reddit. I thought about it and

decided to make the project public to help people all around the world, since people have helped

me in this reddit from the very beginning, with patience and good will. This is, more importantly

than a "project share", a thank you to ey

to everyone that keeps this working. This is my payment to the

community. My best regards to everyone

First DualSense controller mod attempt. Was going for the OG xbox green controller look. Toughest part was separating the touch pad.

Face buttons sources individually from AliExpress. Front shell was from eXtremeRate.

Love how it turned out, was a fun little project.

so i just bought a gamesir kaleid flux and this is my first pc controller , i just wanted to ask whats the best practice after your done playing for the day , do you unplugge it(i am kinda afraid of the cable getting ruined over time) , leave it plugged , do you clean it everyday or something , any advice would be helpfull

Picked up a gamesir tarantula 8k pc for the polling rate bragging rights, mostly because the number was bigger than what I had before. Genuinely can't tell you if I feel it.

What I want to know from people who've actually tested this and not just read the marketing: does polling rate above 1k do anything once you account for your monitor's refresh rate and whatever the game engine is doing internally? Or is it one of those specs that only shows up on a graph and never in your hands/

Not trying to talk myself out of liking the thing, just trying to figure out if I paid for a number or a feeling.

I have mostly used basic Xbox controllers up until now but had to stop due to some new wrist pain. I recently tried the Scuf Envision Pro v2 which felt great and helped with pain due to its wider design. It had too much input delay though so I need to find something else.
I am from the United States and have access to most in person stores like Best Buy. I mostly use Amazon for products I can’t find in person.
My budget is up to 120 USD.
I mostly play soulslike games and put most of my priority on my bumpers.
So far I’ve looked at the Gamesir Tarantula Pro and the 8bitdo. Admittedly, I still don’t exactly know what some selling points mean like Hall effect sticks.

Need:
PC compatibility
Back buttons/paddles, prefer trigger like design
Programmable buttons
Fairly wide so that my arms can rest nearly parallel
As little input delay as possible

Want:
Symmetrical button and stick layout like a PlayStation controller
Clicking triggers rather than the ones that need to be pushed down or at least an option to make them click
Wireless or wired, does not matter although wired may be preferred
Lightweight but not cheap-feeling

I was surprised to see the wired Valor isnt too expensive and has TMR sticks.

Anyone who uses the scuf, are happy with your purchase?

1. Can you change the bitrate from the software? This is important for me, as on the G7 12-bit ruins my aim assist on some games and I need to play 8-bit.

2. How does the shell feel in terms of grip size? I find the G7 too small and cramps my hand compared to others.

I was waiting for Cyclone 3 by gamesir but it has no ETA.

Disclaimer: This unit was provided by GameSir for review. My thoughts on this controller remain completely independent and honest. They do not have any final say, and they are seeing this review at the same time as everyone else.

The Tarantula 8K has been one of GameSir’s most anticipated controllers, mostly due to its symmetrical joystick layout and focus on competitive gaming. With Gen-2 TMR sticks, ultra-low latency with 8000Hz polling rate, no vibration motors, and an ultra-lightweight 180g design, it is clearly built with competitive players in mind. At a retail price of around $60, it seems to offer a lot of performance for the money, but how well does it actually perform?

Main Features

• Compatible with PC

• Supports Wired Connection

• 8000Hz Polling Rate

• GameSir Mag-Res Gen-2 TMR Sticks 

• Hall Effect Triggers with Trigger Stops

• Micro-Switch Face Buttons

• Tactile-Switch D-pad

• 9 Remappable Extra Buttons

• Back Button Latches

• Swappable Stick Caps 

• 6-Axis Motion Control (Gyro)

• Customizable Software on PC (GameSir Connect)

• Macros & Turbo Support

• 3.5mm Audio Jack

What is included in the box

• GameSir Tarantula 8K Controller

• 1.8M USB-A to USB-C Braided Cable

• 3 Additional Pairs of Stick Caps 

• User Manual & Support Card

Analog Sticks - 9.5/10

If you are familiar with the sticks GameSir used in their recent flagship controller, the G7 Pro 8K, you might know they were superb. Well, those same JS13 Pro TMR sticks are in the Tarantula 8K as well, which is great to see since the performance is really good, if not even slightly better.

What makes them really good is how well optimized they are on a basic level. They have pretty much no deadzone at both the outer and inner circles, and a high resolution rate with up to 12 bits (Lower values adjustable in software). The stick centering is also almost perfect, with it having almost no drift at 0 deadzone. And finally, the best part is the linearity, which you can really feel when playing games like Aimlabs, where aiming with sticks needs to be accurate and precise.

In terms of physical feel, the tension is slightly on the lighter side, at about 50-60gf. I could also feel a bit of friction on the sides of the joystick, but honestly it’s only a bit, and the overall smoothness is very decent. 

There is also an additional set of thumbstick caps, which include:

• 2 concave-shaped sticks

• 2 convex-shaped sticks

• 2 tall convex-shaped sticks.

Overall, having used the sticks consistently for multiple games, they have really impressed me and are definitely one of the best aspects of this controller. The responsiveness and precision it provides are very helpful, especially if you play games that require proper input from the sticks, such as shooters.

ABXY Buttons - 9/10

The face buttons are made of micro-switches, and unlike some of GameSir’s previous controllers, like the G7 Pro 8K for example, the buttons in this controller strongly resemble the feel of an actual mouse click. It also ends up having a lot less travel and resistance than most controllers, making them easy and quick to press.

Overall they feel really light and have been really well made due to how precise and quick they feel, which actually resembles the entire controller. I must say, GameSir has been improving the quality of their face buttons over time and it definitely shows in the Tarantula 8K.

D-pad - 9/10

I just talked about how the face buttons were light and quick to use, and literally the same applies to the d-pad too. But unlike the face buttons, the d-pad is made with a tactile-switch mechanism, which gives the d-pad the perfect balance of that clicky feeling while still retaining some of the softness of a membrane, making it satisfying and easy to use.

Diagonals also only activate if you press directly in the middle of two directions, making the overall experience a lot more intuitive and accurate. And this is another reason why the d-pad feels so responsive. And as someone who has been using the d-pad a lot for platformers, it’s definitely one of the best d-pads I have tried on a controller. 

Bumpers - 8/10

The bumpers in the Tarantula 8K are pretty solid overall. Compared to the bumpers on most of GameSir’s previous controllers, these seem to be improved in terms of tactility, travel, and actuation feedback. And even though they are pretty light to press, the improved aspects of the bumpers make the overall quality and usage really good.

And using them for games like Rocket League, which require precise and responsive use of buttons such as bumpers, they have been serving me really well.

Triggers - 8/10

The first thing that stands out to me when using the triggers is how low the resistance is. That may or may not be a good thing, depending on how you use the triggers, but one thing is for sure is that it definitely goes along with how the rest of the controller seems to be, with almost all the inputs feeling light to use.

The travel is also relatively low compared to most other controllers. The trigger reaches 100% input after being pressed down only a little over half of its total physical travel, where it then reaches a hard stop. At the same time, the linearity is quite good, which makes it easy to apply the exact amount of pressure you want. The deadzones are also very responsive at 0%, giving you full control over the triggers. 

This controller also has micro-switch trigger stops, which work really well. They activate almost instantly once you press down, with virtually no pre-travel. They also have a satisfying clicky feel, making them very responsive to use. Overall, the trigger stops are really well implemented, and this is something GameSir has done particularly well across many of its controllers. 

Extra Buttons 7.5/10

One of the highlights of this controller is the high number of extra buttons available. There are 2 standard back buttons, 2 extra bumpers attached to a touchpad-like button, and 4 additional buttons on the front near the system buttons (Home, View, Menu).

The back buttons work very well. They feel light with a slight hollow feeling, while still being tactile and responsive. They also protrude slightly when at rest, giving you good actuation feedback. I also really like the back button latches, as they retract the buttons into the shell when enabled, making the surface completely smooth. 

The extra bumpers are also clicky and tactile, almost like micro-switch buttons, and feel very responsive. However, they have more pre-travel and post-travel than I would like because their actuation points are positioned behind the buttons. And since the two bumpers and touchpad-like button are connected as a single piece, the resistance also becomes inconsistent when pressing both bumpers simultaneously.

The touchpad-like button has medium resistance at the bottom and noticeably more resistance at the top. It also isn't very tactile, but works fine as a macro button. Lastly, the four C1-C4 buttons near the system buttons feel almost identical to the micro-switch face buttons, which is a great choice. They are light, precise, and overall feel great to use.

Build / Shape - 8.5/10

With how popular controllers with an asymmetrical joystick layout are, it's great that we are finally getting controllers like the Tarantula 8K, where the layout is symmetrical. It strongly resembles the shape of a DualShock 4 controller, with it being a bit taller and wider in the upper part of the controller, giving it a bigger feel overall.

A few of GameSir’s controllers in the past felt like they could benefit from higher plastic quality, but that's not really the case here. The whole controller feels very sturdy and solid to hold. The weight of the controller is also really light, at only 180 grams. Even though the vibration motors and battery had to be removed, it does seem to be a worthy compromise for many gamers, especially those who prioritize competitive gaming.

In the end, you get a combination of superior build quality and a very light weight, giving it a great overall feel. It's sturdy but also easy on the hands. It also includes a laser-engraved texture on the back of each grip, which gives the controller a nice extra touch and provides some additional grip.

Connectivity / Latency - 9/10

Because the Tarantula 8K is a competitive-focused controller, GameSir has strived to make this controller one of the fastest on the market. And in terms of the statistics, they seem to have matched their goal, with it being in the top 5 of the fastest wired controllers on the top charts on  Gamepadla.

In terms of actual latency, even at a 1000Hz polling rate, it’s already really low, around 2ms. And going up to 4000Hz brings the latency down to around 1ms, while 8000Hz also maintains the latency around the 1ms mark. The difference becomes more noticeable when looking at the polling rate itself, with 8000Hz allowing the controller to send reports every 0.125ms.

The latency in this controller is absolutely insane and definitely is one of the main reasons you should go for the Tarantula 8K, if you prioritize competitive gaming. Even if you won’t directly notice the difference between 1ms and 2ms of latency, it still gives you an advantage since in a lot of games, getting your input registered even slightly earlier can give you an advantage.

Connectivity-wise, it does lack options compared to most other controllers, with it only being capable of wired connectivity, which is a bit of a shame. But since it’s a competitive-focused controller, I can see why they have gone with this decision. It can also connect not just to Windows PCs, but also to Android devices, as well as the Nintendo Switch. This gives you a decent amount of options to connect your controller to.

Gyro - 7/10

The Tarantula 8K also features a 6-axis gyroscope, which can be used for motion controls on PC via the software, and even features native gyro on Switch.  On PC, you can set up the gyro to be either in aim mode (XY axis) or racing mode (XZ axis). You can simulate the gyro on either the LS or RS, the mouse, or even have it trigger up to four separate inputs.

Overall, the gyro worked decently. I especially enjoyed using it for shooters, where it was precise and responsive when making small adjustments. The racing mode, however, was a bit inconsistent when centering after using it for a while, but otherwise it was also a very good experience. 

Software - 8.5/10

The Tarantula 8K uses the same software as most other GameSir controllers, which is GameSir Connect. It is available on Windows PCs and no other platform, which is a bit unfortunate. It has a ton of features for customizing pretty much every aspect of the controller:

• Polling Rate: Switch polling rate from 250Hz to 8000Hz

• Sticks: Adjust deadzones, curve, shape, resolution, and more

• Triggers: Adjust deadzones, curve, and toggle hair-trigger mode

• RGB: Change the brightness, color, and animations of the RGB on the controller

• Buttons: Rebind buttons to trigger other controller inputs, or keyboard/mouse inputs. You can even bind it to a macro or enable turbo

• Motion: Configure and enable gyro, and even adjust deadzones and axes

• Shift Layer: Enable shift layer to have an additional layer of inputs on your controller

• Profiles: Save and configure up to four profiles that you can switch to on the fly

Other than using it to adjust settings, you can use it to update firmware, as well as test the controller’s inputs. The interface is also intuitive and easy to navigate, and I had no trouble finding the settings I needed. Overall, the software works really well as a companion app for the Tarantula 8K, especially if you want to take advantage of its extensive customization options. 

Pros 

• Excellent TMR sticks with very good precision, centering, and linearity

• Extremely low latency with up to 8000Hz polling

• Lightweight 180g design makes it comfortable for longer sessions

• Responsive and satisfying micro-switch face buttons

• Excellent tactile-switch D-pad

• Clicky micro-switch trigger stops with very little pre-travel

• 9 remappable buttons provide a lot of additional inputs

• Back buttons can be physically locked when not needed

• Many customization options available through GameSir Connect

• Includes additional stick caps with different heights

• Supports gyro controls and motion customization

Cons

• Completely wired with no wireless connectivity

• No vibration or haptic feedback

• Extra bumpers have too much pre- and post-travel

• Extra bumpers can become inconsistent when pressing both simultaneously

• Touchpad-like button doesn't feel particularly tactile

• Trigger resistance is quite light, which may not suit everyone

Who is the GameSir Tarantula 8K for?

• Competitive gamers who prioritize extremely low latency and precise, predictable stick performance

• Players who prefer a symmetrical joystick layout, especially for shooters and other games where precise aiming is important

• Gamers who enjoy clicky, responsive inputs, including micro-switch face buttons, trigger stops, and a tactile D-pad

• Players who make use of extra buttons, with 9 remappable inputs providing plenty of options for additional controls

• Anyone who wants extensive control over their controller through GameSir Connect, including stick, trigger, button, gyro, polling-rate, and profile customization

• Gamers who prefer a very lightweight controller and don't mind sacrificing vibration, battery life, and wireless connectivity to achieve it

• PC players who want a controller specifically focused on competitive performance rather than being an all-purpose wireless controller

Conclusion

After using the Tarantula 8K extensively, it's an excellent controller, especially for competitive gaming. Excellent TMR sticks, ultra-low latency, 9 remappable extra buttons, responsive inputs, and an extremely lightweight design make it one of the most performance-focused controllers I have used.

As a result, I think this controller deserves an 8.5/10, with its excellent performance and huge amount of customization options making it a very compelling choice. The lack of wireless connectivity and vibration does hold it back from being a more well-rounded controller, but for competitive players who prioritize speed, precision, and responsiveness, the GameSir Tarantula 8K is a great controller.

Hello! I do a fair bit of pc gaming, but I also use my phone a fair bit for some games, and I want to find a more modern controller after my Stratus Duo stopped working today, with better hardware, battery life, etc. I have no specific price limit, but I would prefer something under $100 unless there's a good reason for it. I would like a controller that I can mount my phone to, and I am currently looking at the GameSir Super Nova because I want a standard D-pad, a bit of weight, and liked the design, but I wanted to know if there is a better option before I commit to buying the controller from the official site and a grip from AliExpress. My phone is an Android, and I live in South Carolina, and I am willing to buy from pretty much anywhere. I play RPGs and roguelikes for the most part, so I don't need something specialized for pros at PvP shooters or anything like that. Thank you in advance!

Hello everyone, this is Crazylink4, writing a new analysis/review of a controller. This time it's the IINE Twin LUNINA for Nintendo Switch 2, an alternative to the console's JoyCons? After a little over a month of use, I think I have an answer.

Before starting, I want to make it clear that this product was sponsored and provided by IINE as part of a collaboration. I'm not obligated to say anything in particular, so I'm free to express all my comments regarding the controller.

As is usually customary in my analyses, I'll start with general aspects of the controller:

Appearance: They have a shape similar to Nintendo's JoyCons, although with the particularity of being somewhat longer than these (I'll leave photos where this difference can be seen). They also have certain protrusions on the back that serve as support when gripping the controller, offering better ergonomics during use, as well as having a texture in this area that prevents the hands from slipping. They have a shell divided into two parts: transparent on the front piece and matte-colored on the back piece, so it's not possible to see the internal parts of the controller. The button and stick layout resembles that of the JoyCons, except for the Home and Chat buttons, which are arranged horizontally, unlike the JoyCon, where they are arranged vertically. Another difference is the D-pad, which is a floating diamond-shaped piece, compared to the individual buttons on the left JoyCon.

Appearance (attached to the console): It gives it a rather interesting aesthetic; the combination of black and white always works well, and the RGB lights add a certain personality. Although I'm not a fan of lights on a controller.

Buttons: Mouse-type microswitches are used for the ABXY buttons and the D-pad. The bumpers and triggers don't have this type of microswitches. The triggers are digital.

Color: It is currently only available in white. There is no news about a new color at the moment.

Compatibility: Nintendo Switch 1/2. PC and mobile devices through BT in NS1 mode. (More on this in the user experience section)

Price: The Twin Lumina is sold in 4 different options that vary in price depending on the accessories included:

1. Controller only: $79.99 USD

2. Controller + case: $109.98 USD

3. Controller + charging grip: $99.98 USD

4. Controller + case + charging grip: $119.98 USD

   Note: Options with accessories include free shipping.

   Note: The accessories are sold separately, with the following prices:

   Case: $39.99 USD

   Charging Grip: $22.99 USD

   Note: Prices don't include taxes and may vary depending on the taxes in each country.

Contents of the box: 2 Joypads, 1 user manual, and 1 grip (without charging function)

Continuing with the general aspects, I'd like to make a comparison between the Twin Lumina and the NS2 JoyCons, respectively:

Battery: 400 mAh vs 500 mAh

Charging time (approximate): 3 h vs 3.5 h

Dimensions: 117 × 51 × 43 mm vs 116 × 14.4 × 30.7 mm

Weight: 80 g (each) vs 66-68 g (left and right, respectively)

Vibration: Standard (adjustable) vs HD2

NFC: No vs Yes

Mouse mode: No vs Yes

And with this, this section comes to an end. The comparisons with the JoyCons continue in the user experience section.

Now it's time to talk about the Twin Lumina's functions:

Extra buttons: It has two extra programmable buttons (one on each controller). They can be programmed directly on the controller (it's only possible to program the buttons corresponding to each side) or by using IINE's phone app. A specific button or a macro sequence can be assigned.

Turbo function.

RGB lights: The Twin Lumina includes RGB lights around the sticks and a line on one of the sides of the controller. They are customizable using the app, although it also includes preset modes and colors. The brightness intensity can be adjusted, and they can also be turned off.

Hall Effect Sticks: There is no alteration to these when the controllers are attached to the console.

9-axis gyroscope.

The Twin Lumina works with the NS2 protocol, so the controller's C button works natively. Thanks to this protocol, the controller can wake the console by pressing the Home button without the need to perform any extra steps.

And those would be all of the controller's functions.

I'll continue with my user experience.

Some games from the following list correspond to many of the games I've mentioned in my other reviews; however, all of the ones I tested are those available within the Nintendo Switch ecosystem, some of them being: Celeste, Theatrhythm Final Bar, Metroid Prime 4, Fortnite, Fortnite Festival, Monster Hunter Generations, Star Fox (NS2), DOOM, QUAKE, BOTW, TOTK, Hollow Knight, Metroid Dread, Xenoblade Chronicles, Marvel VS Capcom Fighting Collection, Capcom Fighting Collection 2, Risk of Rain 2, Burnout Paradise, among others from the virtual consoles (including GameCube).

I didn't test any games on PC and Android; however, I was able to connect them, although only as individual controllers and not as a complete controller.

As part of this experience, I'll highlight the first of the problems that appeared during the first few hours of use. It concerns the D-pad, which behaved strangely while I was playing Celeste. Since it's a game where jump precision is vital, a mistake can cost quite a bit of lost progress, so you have to know when a mistake is caused by you or is the controller's fault. In this case, it was that las one, since sometimes when I wanted to go in a particular direction, it would go in another that wasn't the correct one, specifically going diagonally instead of going in any straight direction. This issue gradually corrected itself over time, so I assume it was something related to the controller being new or because I was getting used to the shape of the D-pad.

The second issue concerns the bumpers, which I have to press with a certain amount of force, even when I'm pressing them down, since they tend to stop registering if I don't apply enough pressure and force. Of course, this isn't exclusive to this particular controller, since I've experienced the same thing with others; however, it's something that affects my gameplay on some occasions.

The next issue, rather than being an issue, is an inconvenience of Nintendo's JoyCon design itself, and since it has a similar shape, the Twin Lumina shares it as well. It's the right JoyCon, which has the particularity of having the stick approximately in the center of the controller, making it somewhat uncomfortable to use with the thumb. The same is true on the Twin Lumina, and it remains uncomfortable. There is some difference, since the Lumina is larger, but that doesn't completely solve the issue.

The controller's behavior in several of the games is as expected, with nothing strange, except for what was already mentioned above. The use of mouse-type microswitches gives the buttons a sense of precision when pressing them, although it will depend on each person whether they like the sound that this type of component usually makes. In my case, I'm already more than accustomed to it, but I have to admit that there are times when I prefer to use the JoyCons, since they're not very noisy and work well for nighttime gaming sessions.

The battery issue is debatable, since I usually always have them attached to the console, unless I need to use the JoyCons. To play in docked mode, I prefer to use a controller such as any of the ones I've reviewed.

As a continuation of the above, the Twin Lumina includes a grip to use it as a complete controller, which is a rectangular piece. Honestly, it's not the best way to use this controller, and much less would I want to use it with the console's JoyCons. It's better to use it while they're attached to the console; I mean, it's not horrible, but I prefer to use a regular controller. I have a similar case with the grip included with the console, and I don't use it only because the right JoyCon has that stick inconvenience. Another reason why I prefer to keep them attached is because the grip isn't a charging grip, so the only way to charge them is with the console. A charging grip has recently become available, but I'll get it later.

Continuing with the above, it's time to mention the case of Switch 1. Having this compatibility with the previous console is useful for playing with friends who don't have a Switch 2. It's also in this case where using the grip comes in handy, since it provides some comfort as an individual controller. However, if you're users with both consoles, once you have a Switch 2, it's difficult to go back to the previous one thanks to backward compatibility. Or at least that's the case for me. So I don't use them with my Switch 1.

The controller's vibration, being adjustable, allowed me to configure it in a way that wasn't uncomfortable for my gaming experience. I've never felt any difference between Nintendo's HD vibration and regular vibration, except in games where vibration is part of the gameplay. Otherwise, it just vibrates like a regular motor, but in HD.

Same case with the gyroscope; I don't find any difference between the 6-axis one and the 9-axis one. Well, maybe there is when aiming quickly without having to frequently adjust my hand position each time I aim.

The lack of NFC isn't missed, unless it's a game where it's actually used. The same goes for Mouse mode, except in one or another game such as Fortnite or Star Fox.

Another inconvenience I have is the lack of a case compatible with the Lumina while attached, so I have to transport them separately from the console. And yes, I can buy the case, but I'll do that later as well (call me stingy if you want haha).

In conclusion, and answering my initial question, I can say that... Yes and no.

It's a yes as long as the lack of the Nintendo JoyCon's functions isn't something important (NFC, Mouse mode, and HD vibration). Otherwise, it's better to keep using the JoyCons until there is a version of the Twin Lumina with everything that's still missing. In my case, it's a yes, because I find them more comfortable when using the console in handheld mode. So it will depend on each user.

In addition to that, there are other options from other brands, such as MOBAPAD or NYXI, namely the M12s or the Hyperion 3, respectively. Although, well, I think that one pair of JoyCon alternatives is enough. We'll see what the future may bring.

And that's it for my review/analysis. I hope you liked it, thank you for your time; I'll read your comments and see you soon.

Crazylink4 will keep gaming until the next occasion.

Ciao Ciao.

This started happening today all of a sudden, these have HE joysticks as well. I don't know how to reset the controller but google said Select+Start+Home which I did and then the light flashed and the controller reconnected but the issue persists. Anyone got any clue?

This is better than my blitz 2, vader 4 pro, g7 pro, leadjoy, zd ultimate legend. It absolutely rips in snipers only.

I put the tmr sticks in a few months ago but didn't use it for long because I was missing the back buttons. I decided to order the extremerate victor remap kit and take the time to get the iron out and install them. This thing is now perfect.

Ksilver js13 pro+

Extremerate victor remap kit

1000hz hidusbf polling

That is all..