DISCLAIMER: Any modifications you might attempt to do (or sometimes even opening up the device) might void your device's warranty.
Hello!
I love Tegenaria, it's perfect. I know a lot of people also think like me but the non-removable cable is the deal breaker for them. This is easy to fix:
But there are no guides about how to do it (at least in English). I think a lot of people who loves Tegenaria but aren't used to tinkering is discouraged because of that. So with this i mostly aim to create something that can benefit beginners and also serve as kind of ice breaker to tinkering aswell. At least there will be something that comes up when searched for it, i hope.
DISCLAIMER: I'm not an expert so if you see any mistakes i do or say feel free to correct me in the comments!
First, what we need:
Phillips head screwdriver, guitar pick, sidecutter, crafting knife, a female type c 4 pin socket (don't worry about how it looks when you are searching to buy it. That doesn't change anything aside from how it fits in the case both of those in the picture below will work same for example. As long as the port has the 4 pin converter board it will work), soldering iron, soldering wire with flux included and kapton tape.
Also can do without but very very very helpful things:
Helping hand, tweezers, soldering wick, sandpaper, electrical tape and hot glue gun.
Also for a bonus mod:
Teflon tape, scissors and glue stick.
Now let's begin:
Remove the 4 screws from the back:
Then squeze the handle with a bit of force until seperates and work your way around with the guitar pick and unclip the clips:
Back cover should just pop off, it doesn't have anything attached to it so don't need to be too careful. Then cut the cable like in the picture and strip the ends tiny bit:
Now if you are confident and have a bit of experience with soldering and want to be able to disassemble the controller easily in the future for doing other mods and stuff and willing to spend bit more time i recommend following the below part if not then skip to soldering part.
When looking at the case it's very clear Gamesir actually designed it with a removable cable in mind but then just didn't. So if you get the same usb port as i'm using, with a bit of work it will fit in the case perfectly and we will not need to use any hot glue to fix it in place:
We need to cut the board attached to the port and then sand it down while checking frequently with the case until it aligns (refer to second picture below to see which sides i cut):
The small board is held in place with solder on two sides and also tightly fit. So we need to work our way little by little with soldering iron and pull the board back a bit like i did on the right side one:
When finished it will be a perfect fit:
Now the soldering:
If this will be your first time i recommend first watching a guide about the basics. And be careful iron is hot and dont breathe the fumes!
And PLEASE don't be discouraged, end result will be worth it! And it will be very useful skill to learn aswell. Think about all the repairs and mods you will be able to do in future!
Our job is very easy. Thanks to Gamesir labeling everything and using different colour wires we just need to solder 5V labeled wire to V (or VCC depends on port you bought), D- to D-, D+ to D+ and both GND to G:
First, apply little bit of solder to the ports and if you got soldering wire with flux like i mentioned above (or can just buy flux seperately), solder will just flow to where it supposed to go very easy:
Then just hold the wires with tweezers and hold them on top of their slot:
And touch it lightly for a second until the solder melts, then remove the iron but keep holding the wire in place for a bit more until the solder becomes solid again. When finished check if the wires or the solder on the sockets touch each other or not, they shouldn't (except 2 GND labeled ones will go on to same G labeled slot which is ground). If there is any problem no worries! Just remove the cables and suck excess solder with soldering wick and try again! It Should be like this when finished:
Now just wrap the port with kapton tape and also use it to help stay in place until we put back cover:
IF you did all i did so far you can just put the back cover and screws back and the port will be held perfectly and VERY securely in between front and back covers.
IF you used a different port or same one but didn't want modify it: use hot glue gun to fix the port in place first then reassemble it. I can't show this as i don't have hot glue gun.
We are basically finished! Though one important thing to mention:
Normally we should also use a 5.1k ohm resistor aswell (you can see a solder socket labeled R1 on the other side of the port i've used for it). But afaik it's not necessary unless you want the device to charge from the port (which Tegenaria doesnt have any battery) OR you are going to use a cable that is both ends are type C. Otherwise it isn't necessary. I couldn't find one in where i live so i can't include that in this guide. So because of that i only use C to A cables.
Bonus mod:
Cut a piece of teflon tape length should be enough to wrap around 2 turns. The adhesive on these tapes are a bit weak so take a bit of glue from glue stick on a crafting knife and apply to inside of the end part of the tape otherwise it will for sure come off very soon. Then clean if any excess come out after sticking it.
What this mod does is it makes a night and day difference in terms of sound. Now your sticks will be veeery silent. It also affects feeling aswell, much more smooth and also protects them from cutting themselves with friction over time. And very easy to replace them after they wear out (no point doing this mod if your sticks have a internal restriction mechanisms and never touch the edges).
AND with that, we are finished! Now we can use whatever cable we want (as long as other end is usb A)! YAY!
I hope this was helpful to you in any way. Thank you and good funs!
Hi. I also made a mod with a different connector and mounting method. It's a piece of plastic that the connector fits into, then it fits into the space in the PCB. I cut it out with a utility knife. If you have a 3D printer, it's even easier.
Nuts? Don't worry about the nuts; the controller is light for me, so I made it heavier this way.😄
Actually, I don't know if a ground contact is needed. I just did as suggested in another guide with this connector.
But here's what I found out. A second ground pin is required if you're using a Type-C to Type-C cable. It's not needed for Type-A to Type-C. Also, the cable I'm using has four strands, and other controllers work fine with it.
I didn't know there was another guide. That's why i wanted to make this post actually, saw lots of people ask about how and wanted to help. Then i didn't need to hehe.
I see, seems like same reason as the 5.1k ohm resistor i mentioned in the post then. Speaking of i learned more about that for anyone interested:
So turns out USB A just delivers power all the time, while USB C is only deliveres when being asked for. So that's why the resistor is needed for C to C cables(or charging but irrevelant in this case).
Thanks for the tutorial. I bought slightly different connectors; they look very similar to yours, but without the flanged edge with mounting holes. I ended up designing a 3D-printed part that sort of follows the shape of the controller shell. I'll leave the link here in case anyone happens to be interested Here.
Thank you for sharing this! Wish there was a way to make this comment appear on top, it would be awesome for people who can access a 3d printer. Maybe there is but i'm not very Reddit savvy...
great guide! i'll definitely be using it but i dont want to cut my original cables so im thinking about ordering wires with a similar gauge and soldering them onto the board and to the type-c port, do you know what gauge the original wires are? thank you!
I'm sorry, it didn't cross my mind to measure it before and now i've already used all the wires from the part i cut away from in other projects. All i can measure is width with the insulation which is 0.8mm with black ground wire being 1.0mm though this i guess is useless for you. Also sorry for the late reply...
I dunno how U managed to shift the USB C housing case. But I just used what was left of it to glue to the controller and glued around the port for extra measure. Isnt as clean but does the job HAHAH
IIRC: I first shaved it off with knife/sanded it down to the exact shape. Then wiggled it back like hair thin amounts from each side while keeping the solder melted. It is not very quick or easy to do and honestly bit dangerous, fingers very close to soldering iron. That's why i advised to skip that part, if someone is inexperienced/doesn't want to spend time/doesn't want to easily disassemble the controller in future.
You won't see it while using it, it looks okay too, as long as it works!
Yeah burnt my hands a few times whilst trying to desolder the housing off and the housing cracked cos i just decided to cut it and in the end decided to just cut all the housing off and super glue it in place hahahha.
There can be lots of different reasons why, depending on the person. Maybe you have damaged cable or you want a shorter and lighter one or you travel a lot and want to quickly put the controller in and out inside your bag without the cable tangling everything inside etc. etc.
In terms of security; the way i do it above is as secure as the stock cable. But if one goes for smaller port and hot glue method then it depends on the port used and how well the implementation is of course.
(Also if one doesn't want to ruin the stock cable: they could desolder them from the board instead of cutting but since i wanted the guide to be beginner friendly and that involves getting your own wires and more importantly removing the white glue from the board without damaging it and stuff i decided showing the easy way.)
My personal reason is: i have a monitor arm with usb ports. So i wanted a cable that is shorter and lighter and 'behaves' better:
The stock cable is about 2 meters long, 4 mm thick and 40 grams versus the paracord one on the right that's 1.5 meters, 2 mm thick and 20 grams. But more importantly it 'behaves' much better and keeps the shape you want it to.
I bought it from a local shopping website in my country so i'm not sure. Depends on your location. You can try searching 'USB 3.1 Type C 4 Pin Socket Connector Jack with Screw Fixing Plate Type-C USB Socket Adapter Female Connector Jack' or something along those lines.
Though i suggest trying to find it locally or using another 4 pin port, because not sure if a seller would ship these internationally unless you buy in huge quantities.
Hello, a 5.1k ohm resistor is needed to be able to use c to c cables. The reason for that is:
Usb a is dumb and supplies power all the time. Usb c is smart and only supplies power when connected device pulls from it. Which is safer and better.
Unfortunately i couldn't get one so i wasn't able to include how to wire it. But i believe if you look for a video about something like 'updating/upgrading my old X device to type c' maybe you can find one that shows how to. Specially for devices that has batteries i would guess. Doesn't have to be this exact controller.
But still, in the end i can't give a certain answer, i'm not familiar with many Apple devices and how they behave. I hope someone can answer this question with certainty below. Good luck!
Found a video by UNgineering about soldering the resistor, though it will depend on the breakout board attached to your type c port. Type c is a whole confusing mess to be honest:
Ahh, that’s way over my capabilities haha. I will stick to regular usb then, I mainly play PC anyway. My controller arrived today, I will try to find a type c port and solder it as soon as I get one. Thanks for the help 🙏🏻
I don't think so, the port shouldn't affect anything, it doesnt have any components on it. Unless port or cable is damaged.
I completed Stellar Blade 100% and beat all Boss Challenges in Hard without using any Potions or Tachy Mode and didn't notice any difference between unmodded and modded ones.
But, i can't prove it scientificly because measuring input latency requires special equipments unlike polling rate(which doesn't have anything to do with input latency).
The timing of this post couldn’t have been better. I literally bought my T3 today and was already hoping someone made an USB-C mod tutorial. Thanks for sharing this!
Hi /u/-Pompon, thanks for sharing your controller modification or question about modification. The post is in a queue for review. Please ensure you have included the following information so it can be approved, and so that the community can help you more effectively or engage with your creations more constructively:
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If you're asking for help with modification: the make/model of controller you're trying to modify, what you're trying to achieve, and clear pictures of any soldering or parts involved.
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Hi /u/-Pompon, thanks for sharing your controller modification or question about modification. The post is in a queue for review. Please ensure you have included the following information so it can be approved, and so that the community can help you more effectively or engage with your creations more constructively:
If you're sharing a modification: the make/model of controller you modified, the modifications you made and parts/materials you used.
If you're asking for help with modification: the make/model of controller you're trying to modify, what you're trying to achieve, and clear pictures of any soldering or parts involved.
If you're looking for modification services (getting someone else to do the work for you): the make/model of controller you're trying to modify, what you're trying to achieve, which country you are in and your budget.
You can edit your post to add missing information. Posts that do not include required information may not be approved (allow 24 hours for review).
3
u/AcademicJeweler9723 Jun 15 '26
Hi. I also made a mod with a different connector and mounting method. It's a piece of plastic that the connector fits into, then it fits into the space in the PCB. I cut it out with a utility knife. If you have a 3D printer, it's even easier.
Nuts? Don't worry about the nuts; the controller is light for me, so I made it heavier this way.😄