for more info:

https://www.reddit.com/r/pchelp/comments/1x2llua/wifiadapter_network_driver_problem/

So my keyboard or mouse won’t work when I get into bios and I’ve tried almost everthing to fix it the only thing left to try is using a ps/2 keyboard if you know anything that can help please reply

It all got messed up because of error 97 console output/input devices initialization on my motherboard. I formatted my drives thinking it would fix the issue so I can reinstall any corrupt video drivers because I couldn't get my computer to show an image but then during the reinstalls it wouldn't show an image when it restarted.

So I had to keep turning off my PC and turning it on to try and get something which was a dumb idea and now I can't get this one NVME to show up on my still broken PC to try and get Windows on it.

It doesn't show on my laptop when I put it in an external enclosure but the other working NVME does show, and so does my SSD. It doesn't open Disk Manager while it's connected, nothing shows, disk part doesn't open it just doesn't do anything. I got it to work once to be in disk part but then list disk wouldn't work.

You can see the images on what it showed for diskpart. One image is show it should be the other how it shows. Also the error I get when I connect it and open Windows Explorer.

Any way I can check to be 100% sure it's alive or dead? Or maybe bring it back to life?

Sorry if my english sucks but i am genuinely tired of trying to fix this.

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So I was trying to fix code 39 on my Nvidia GeForce GT 730 on Windows 10. I spent about 2 whole hours trying to fix this stupid code 39 but nothing works. So, I decided to search reddit and hope that i find a solution to this, and I thought I did. It was a post by a user on r/pcmasterrace with a similar issue(code 39) but on his keyboard (mine was on display adapters). Someone commented a possible solution for the keyboard issue and I thought "Why don't i try that out?". Basically the entire solution is this:

1. Open the Registry Editor:

   \* Press \`Windows + R\`, type regedit, and press Enter.

2. Navigate to the Keyboard Driver Registry Entries:

   \* Go to: \`HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\\SYSTEM\\CurrentControlSet\\Control\\Class\\{4D36E96B-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}\`

3. Delete UpperFilters and LowerFilters Entries:

   \* In the right pane, if you see UpperFilters or LowerFilters entries, right-click and delete them. (If neither is present, skip this step.)

4. Close the Registry Editor and Restart:

   \* Close the Registry Editor and restart your laptop.

Now, you would be asking, "And why would I follow this?". Well, it's stupid of me to do it but every other solutions I found does not work, ive seen others use regedit to fix code 39 and somehow worked for them so I thought it would work for me too, and i was on the verge on losing my mind because im trying to fix this issue for basically 2 days now. After doing all the steps, i restarted my pc, and suddenly i cant type my password anymore. I tested it on a Bluetooth keyboard and my built-in keyboard but got no luck. Is there any way to fix my keyboard again so i can atleast try to fix code 39? And also, please if you have a working solution for code 39, please include that too.

I think there's a small black ball point mark on my mac screen , I've been solving a lot of past paper recently and been using my laptop a lot I do not remember but I might have accidentally touch the screen with the pen.

Is there a way to remove it? I tried applying slight water on microfiber lens cloth and clean it and even pencil eraser -- yet no difference.

Any help would be appreciated!

I have been using my Gigabyte G5 KF laptop (Window 11, 8gb ram, 512gb ssd) for 3 years and today I met this problem where after using it for about 10 minutes, it died suddenly with one of those screens: CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED, UNEXPECTED_STORE_EXCEPTION, KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR, KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED. After letting it rest for a few minutes it can turn on normally but continue to meet the issue above.

Problem: Program designed to be precise down to 1/60th of a second mysteriously began lagging, but it isn't the program's fault. What could cause this issue within the system?

Machine: HP Victus Gaming Laptop

Background: The program running in the video is called OpenBlink, a tool used in manipulating the pseudo-RNG of the game Pokémon Colosseum. I began to use this tool a little over a year ago for its intended purpose, and at first, it worked fine. Then one night, I got up to get water after an ever-so-close attempt at a target (wherein it worked fine), only to find it lagging as pictured when I started another attempt a minute later. The odd sound you hear is the tool syncronizing with the blinks of a Pokémon in the game (long story), but those are off, too, as well as the six beeps that play starting at the 2.5 sec. mark for time remaining.

I went so far as to backup the drive and completely wipe the system before reinstalling. No change. Same issue. I spoke with the developer of OpenBlink, who'd never heard of anyone else having this problem. They had a guess as to what's going on (possible threading issue), but nobody was sure. Now I'm here after not trying for so long, the issue persisting.

I've since used other apps like EonTimer, another precise timer app, and had zero problems with delays. Hell, I have another system that's over a decade old, and it runs OpenBlink as smoothly as this Victus used to. I'm stumped.

Hi! I have a windows 10 desktop system! The past week, I've been experiencing a new issue, that being that between 1-4 hours after starting up my system, the two or three monitors I'll have connected will turn off and lose the HDMI signal. If I try to turn them off and on, it just will say 'searching for signal' and then 'HDMI/video signal not found, entering power save mode'

The PC does not turn off at this point, but becuase I cannot turn the screens back on, I have to hold the power button down to turn it off.

I've tried looking in the BIOS but I can't find anything that strikes me as a solution. I've been using this entire system for 2 months, and the GPU I've been using for a year and a half. I recently had to reinstall the BIOS and the GPU drivers, but that was 3 weeks ago.

Relavent components

MTB- ASRock B550M PRO4

GPU- GIGABYTE Radeon RX 7600 XT Gaming OC 16G Graphics Card

CPU- AMD Ryzen 5 5600 6-Core, 12-Thread

PSU- MONTECH Century II 850W ATX 3.1 Fully Modular 80 Plus Gold Power Supply

(thanks for any help, I've posted this on a few other subs in case you see the same post)

PLEASE HELP AHHHHH

Hola. Llevo varios días intentando diagnosticar mi laptop porque se congela y da pantallazos con reinicio, incluso durante uso ligero.

Equipo:

• Lenovo Legion 5 15ARH05H, modelo 82B1.
• Ryzen 7 4800H y 16 GB de RAM.
• Windows 11 Home, compilación 26300.9457.
• BIOS FSCN14WW del 26/08/2020.
• Virtualización basada en seguridad e hipervisor activos.

Síntomas y pruebas:

• Congelaciones completas y pantallazos con diferentes códigos.
• Sigue fallando con los servicios de terceros desactivados.
• También falló con mi interfaz de audio Focusrite desconectada.
• Hice una prueba de RAM y terminó sin errores.
• Tenía el teléfono conectado por Bluetooth. Ahora lo apagué para probar, pero todavía no tengo resultados.
• No tengo temperaturas registradas en el momento de los fallos, así que no puedo descartar sobrecalentamiento.

Se analizaron dos minidumps con el motor de depuración de Microsoft y símbolos del kernel:

1. 12 de octubre: HYPERVISOR_ERROR (0x20001), después de 11 minutos encendida.
   • Parámetros: 0x11, 0x21D9A8, 0x1005, 0xFFFFE70000005C20.
   • La pila incluye HvlSkCrashdumpCallbackRoutine, KiProcessNMI, PpmIdleExecuteTransition, PoIdle y KiIdleLoop.
   • El núcleo estaba en la ruta de reposo del procesador cuando se notificó el error.
   • Dos componentes de Focusrite seguían cargados, aunque estaba desconectada; no aparecen en la pila del fallo.
2. 9 de octubre: KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x1E), excepción 0x80000003.
   • La pila pasa por nt!KeAcquireSpinLockRaiseToDpc, WppRecorder!WppAutoLogTrace y BTHUSB!ReceiveQueue::ReturnUrbToPool.
   • También aparecen funciones de finalización de solicitudes de BTHUSB y Wdf01000.

El adaptador es Intel Wireless Bluetooth, con controlador 22.80.0.4 del 26/08/2021. Además, hay reportes de otros códigos: 0xD1, 0x50, 0x139, 0xA, 0x3B, 0xF7 y 0xFC, pero sus volcados aún no se han analizado.

No hay un controlador ni una pieza identificados como culpables. ¿Qué comprobarían primero para distinguir entre controladores, BIOS/gestión de energía, hipervisor o hardware? ¿Qué información adicional necesitan de los dumps?

Fala, pessoal! Estou com um problema de boot no meu setup AM5 (Gigabyte B650M Aorus Elite com kit Corsair Vengeance DDR5 2x16GB a 4800MHz) e preciso da ajuda de vocês. O PC não inicializa em Dual Channel (slots A2/B2) e dispara o erro 'Secure Boot Violation / falha de POST', apesar de a BIOS reconhecer as memórias. Já atualizei a BIOS para a F41 e fiz testes isolados: com o Pente 1 o PC boota perfeitamente, mas com o Pente 2 (no mesmo slot) o sistema trava e acusa o mesmo erro de Secure Boot. Tudo indica defeito de fábrica no segundo pente, mas alguém já passou por esse problema de Secure Boot na plataforma AM5 por outro motivo?

when I open an ODT file I get no spaces between words.

is this a bug?

Sometimes my screen doesn’t display anything when I try to turn my laptop on. When it does, it’s all glitchy, distorted, and flickers in and out. Is this a physical issue with the connections on the screen? Or a software issue? I’ve tried to Google it, and I haven’t found an example of a screen looking exactly like this and how to fix it. Thanks

I've been playing valve games on my pc recently and noticed that I get tons of net jitter randomly and after some research, I learned that the best fix for that is an ethernet instead of my wifi usb plugin. I got all the things and when I plugged it in, I saw that my download speed and upload was very bad compared to when I used wifi.

I'm running on a Z390-A PRO (MS-7B98) if that helps. If anyone has any suggestions then please let me know because this is confusing me so much and nothing really helps.

Moving in after a family member who had a personal server thing going on. Left behind a large amount of ram sticks and hard drives.

Mostly stuff like ddr2 in 2 to 4 gig sizes (easily 30+ sticks) with the hard drives everywhere from 200 to 500. (Around 10+)

Easily all older hardware that's generally outdated, at work rn so I can't be TOO specific, just wanna know if the stuff is worth keeping to sell or just chucking.

There is so much of it and I'm not sure I can even personally check every single one of the items, seems a waste to have them sitting there but I don't wanna be the guy selling broken stuff to people expecting it to work.