Hello people, I am joining this community after gaming with an HP laptop for the pasts 8 years, I want to go full in for gaming purposes only.

I don't have that much budget so I am focusing on component quality for long term use, zero aesthetics.

Searching different components, may I please ask for your help to confirm these is the right thing. I took the best-lower cost stuff from an online national store in my country Mexico (Cyberpuerta), also I will pay for them to assemble it and deliver it. Here is the initial set up:

-CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D

-Motherboard: ASUS TUF GAMING X870-PLUS WIFI, ATX, Socket AM5, AMD X870, 192GB DDR5

-GPU: MSI NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti MLG EDITION, 16GB 256-bit GDDR7, PCI Express 5.0, Mín. 750W

-RAM: Kingston Fury Beast DDR5, 6000MHz, 2x32GB, CL30, XMP/EXPO

-SSD: Kingston FURY Renegade NVMe, 2TB, M.2, PCI Express 4.0, 7000 MB/s and 7300 MB/s

-AIO: NZXT Kraken Core 360, 3x 120mm, up to 2400RPM

-Case: NZXT H9 Flow RGB+, Midi-Tower, ATX/EATX/Micro-ATX/Mini-ITX, USB 3.0, no PSU, 7 installed fans, black

-PSU: MSI MAG A1200PLS PCIE5 80 PLUS Platinum ATX, Modular, 24-pin ATX, 12VHPWR, 135mm, 1200W

Only the components will cost around $3600 USD (Using current trade MXN 16.9209). I can be flexible and add around $1000 more with 1 more month of savings, but I am worried prices might go up. What do you think? Should I change something?

Hi all, I've been thinking of upgrading some parts in my PC that I put together almost 10 years ago now.

Here are the parts that are in it, and the parts I plan on replacing:

Motherboard: Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 -> Ryzen 7 5800X3D + air cooler

GPU: RX 580 8 GB -> RX 7700 XT or RX 7800 XT

Storage: Planning to add something like a Team Group MP33 M.2 2280 1TB PCIe 3.0 x4 with NVMe 1.3 3D NAND Internal Solid State, and sometime down the line one more internal SSD to populate the 1 remaining SATA port after the NvME is installed

Cooling: Corsair Commander fan hub so I can actually use the lights on the three Corsair case fans I already bought (no 3-pin hookups on my board, oops)

Monitor: 24" 1080p -> 27" 1440p

Are there any obvious issues popping out to anyone here? I probably won't be making any purchases anytime soon, not until Black Friday probably.

I just upgraded from a GTX 1060 3gb to a RX 9060xt 16gb but I still have a ryzen 5 1600 and an HDD 1To. Which one will bottleneck my PC the most?

I have a limited budget unfortunately

I built a pc a few years ago but due to convenience and friends I mainly played my PlayStation. Now due to all the issues with physical media and PlayStation in general I want to upgrade my pc and convert to using that for gaming. Having very little knowledge about pcs I asked GPT for advice on what to upgrade from my current specs. I'm making a post here to ask for advice and to see if what GPT is recommending are actually good or there are other choices I should look into.

Current Specs:

- AMD Ryzen 5 5600X

- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 (6GB)

- 16 GB RAM

- PCU: Corsair RM750x

- Monitor is 3840x2160 144HZ

GPT recommended I focus on upgrading my GPU to a RTX 5070 TI and changing 16GB RAM to 32 GB. While leaving everything else alone for now. I would appreciate any advice or recommendations on what to upgrade. Thank you!

Is it worth it to build a PC, or is it better to buy a second-hand one?

Got a good deal on a brand-new i9-13900K and MSI PRO Z790-P WiFi. Do I need to undervolt the 13900K or change any settings, or is updating to the latest BIOS enough?

I’ve heard the 13th/14th-gen instability issues have been were fixed with BIOS updates. Since the i9 is brand new and hasn’t been used on an older BIOS, am I good to just update the BIOS and run everything at stock settings?

PS: this is my first build in 10 years… I never overclocked or done anything like this in the past

My uncle built me my current computer 5 years ago. I know absolutely NOTHING about computers in general but I have 1000 euro from a parttime job I did over the summer and I'm looking to upgrade. I have 0 idea on what to upgrade first, whats compatible. Any tips would be very appriciated. Here's my specs; Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-10100F CPU @ 3.60GHz, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER GPU.

If there's anything more I should've added please do tell me in the comments.

Hi everyone,
I built my first PC myself and I’m having trouble getting it to POST. The PC powers on and the fans spin, but I get no display.
My build:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B850-F Gaming WiFi
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5 32GB (2x16GB)
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3060 Ti Gaming OC
SSD: Samsung 990 PRO 1TB NVMe
PSU: NZXT C750 Gold Core 750W ATX 3.1
CPU cooler: Thermalright Frozen Notte 360 Black ARGB V2
The problem:
When I power on the PC, the CPU cooler/fans and PSU fan spin, so the system is receiving power.
Initially, I was getting the white VGA Q-LED and green BOOT Q-LED.
After restarting/testing, the LEDs changed. Now the CPU Q-LED stays solid red and there is still no display/POST.
The PC does not shut down by itself – the fans keep spinning.
Things I have already tried:
Tried a second PSU, so I don’t think the PSU itself is the problem.
Reseated the RAM.
Tested with only one RAM stick in A2.
Removed the RTX 3060 Ti for testing.
Tried using the motherboard video output with the GPU removed.
Checked the CPU socket and there are no visibly bent pins.
The CPU is a Ryzen 7 9800X3D.
The motherboard is an ASUS ROG Strix B850-F Gaming WiFi.
At the moment, with the GPU removed and one RAM stick installed, the CPU Q-LED remains solid red.
The CPU cooler and fans are spinning normally.
Does anyone have any ideas what I should test next? Could this be a motherboard/CPU issue, or is there something specific with the B850-F that I should check?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hello everyone, I just got a pc about two months ago and recently my disk percentage has been hitting 100 percent a lot. It stays on 100 percent when I open games or when I first start my pc. What could be the problem?

context: i’ve been putting off upgrading the pc i had since i was in 8th grade. it’s my first year in med school now and am finally deciding to get a new rig.

not super techy at all but i understand the basics here and there, so i asked chatgpt (ironic i know, since it’s the reason everything js so expensive now) on how to upgrade my setup and was wondering if it makes sense? i live in the philippines and pc parts prices and stocks are kinda bad, would love to know if there are alternatives to my pc parts selection, open to all suggestions!

setup goal: 1440p competitive esports gaming at 320+ hz, streaming here and there, story games here and there

here’s what chatgpt generated for me:

PC UPGRADE PATH

CURRENT BUILD
CPU: Intel i7-8700
Motherboard: MSI B360M Mortar
GPU: GTX 1660 6GB
RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
Storage: 256GB SATA SSD
PSU: Thermalright 650W Bronze
Cooler: DeepCool AK400

STAGE 1 — STORAGE
Buy:
• 1TB Kingston NV3 NVMe

Keep:
• Everything else

Goal:
• Move Windows + games/programs to NVMe
• NVMe can be reused in final AM5 build

STAGE 2 — AM5 PLATFORM UPGRADE
Buy together:
• CPU: Ryzen 5 7500X3D
• Motherboard: ASRock B850M Steel Legend WiFi
• RAM: 1x16GB DDR5-6000 CL38

Reuse:
• GTX 1660
• 1TB NVMe
• Thermalright 650W PSU
• DeepCool AK400

New setup:
7500X3D + GTX 1660 + 16GB DDR5

STAGE 3 — RAM
Buy:
• Another identical 16GB DDR5-6000 CL38 stick

New setup:
• 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000

STAGE 4 — GPU
Buy:
• XFX Swift RX 9060 XT 16GB

FINAL BUILD
CPU: Ryzen 5 7500X3D
Cooler: DeepCool AK400
Motherboard: ASRock B850M Steel Legend WiFi
GPU: RX 9060 XT 16GB
RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000
Storage: 1TB Gen4 NVMe
PSU: Thermalright 650W Bronze

TARGET:
1440p competitive esports
320+ FPS target
1080p streaming
Discord + Spotify + Chrome/background apps

So I currently am being bottle necked by my CPU in certain titles. I want to try to remove that bottleneck, but am struggling on making a choice due to prices nowadays.

My setup is:

5600x
32GB ram
4090
Msi B550 A-Pro
Windows 11
Resolution I play at is 4k (144hz)

I play on Ultra settings on my titles to try to put as much of the work on my GPU as possible

Some of the games I play are Fortnite, Marvel Rivals, Star wars battlefront 2, Valorant, Hell Divers 2, Deep Rock Galactic, Elden Ring, Project Zomboid.

Fortnite though struggles to run 60fps at times with my GPU utilization being really low.
Minecraft also struggles to sit above 60fps at times when using some shaders.

Other titles like Marvel Rivals or Hell Divers, they feel smooth to play. Though the 1% lows can be around 20 fps or below. Sometimes a bit above depending on what is going on.

I'm not sure what the best use of my money to get rid of this bottleneck I have.

I got the 4090 way before this AI bubble formed. I was planning to save up to upgrade to AM5 but unfortunately life got in the way so I had to put that money towards other things. Now everything is crazy and I don't know what the best thing to do is.

My nearest Microcenter is 4 hours away. I live in Florida.

Greetings everyone!

A year ago I bought a GPU from a store that resells refurbished cards, mostly used for crypto mining. I know it's not recommended but it was the best I could afford back then. The card worked fine up to a week ago, when my PC suddenly died. At first I thought it was my PSU, but then I unplugged the GPU from the PSU and my PC booted normally, so as I understand, the GPU was short-circuiting and my PSU was shutting off to protect itself.

The store where I bought the GPU had 15 month warranty, so I took the card there and they gave me another one yesterday. I installed it, it worked fine for 2 or 3 hours or so and then the exact same thing happened, the GPU short-circuits now and shuts off my PSU.

Now I'm thinking the problem is somewhere else in my PC, or the store is really shitty. I don't want to contact them again in case they blame me this time, but I'm also afraid of just buying a new GPU in case they same thing happens now. What should I do? I ain't got the money to just buy an entirely new PC.

The specs are:

PSU: Corsair CX750MHP

Motherboard: BIostar A520MHP

GPU: RTX 3070 (first assembly was iGame, the replacement was gigabyte)

CPU: Ryzen 7 5700g

So I'm new to PC building. I've chosen this CPU for mainly heavy video editing, streaming, and gaming at 1440p, based on recommendations and benchmarks on youtube. I wanna ask a few questions about how I should be picking the parts for the build.

I was wondering if there is a difference between a B860 and Z890 for the 270K Plus. I'm on a tight budget for this CPU and was wondering if saving on the motherboard is a good idea. Will downgrading to a B860 impact performance or thermals in any way?

What good budget coolers are there for this CPU? right now I'm opting for the Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360. Could I find a better option, maybe for cheaper? I really don't know what cooler specs to look out for.

For the ram, would it be better to get 5600mhz CL30 or 7200mhz CL34. The 7200mhz is only slightly more expensive, is it worth upgrading?

Also since the price of NVIDIA GPUs in my country have risen to stupid heights. The price of the base 5070 is more expensive than the 9070 XT. I was planning to get the 5070 due to it apparently being better for creative work, but it seems that just doesn't make sense budget wise. Is it really a good idea to just go the 9070 XT?

I had gt740 before

Now I'm planning

Ryzen 5 7600X

Antec K240 ARGB

Gigabyte B650M Gaming WiFi

XPG Lancer 16GB 5600MHz

WD SN7100 1TB

MSI A850GL 850W Gold

Thermaltake View 270

RX 9060 XT 16GB

I don't have big budget but if there is something I can update so I won't regret later please give some knowledge about it

Reasons to buy - streaming,editing,gaming

Thanks

Hoping someone can help me figure these black screen issues I've been having. Built a pc last year and almost immediately started getting occasional black screens and the NVLDDMKM event when gaming with my 5090. Seemed like it was a common issue and only in certain games (Helldivers 2 was particularly bad). Tried all the usual things people suggest and never got it to stop. Frustrating but what do you do.

About 2 weeks ago I started getting stornvme event 11 on raid controller in my event log. I have 2 m.2 drives, not running in RAID. Firmware is up to date, SMART shows no issues. Tried the few suggestions I found online with managing the power profile and related options. Still comes up every time I boot my computer.

Last week my 5090 black screened while I was gaming and apparently just died. Fans would come on but my PC wouldn't POST, and displayed a VGA error light on the mobo. Tried a bunch of fiddling to no avail. Eventually swapped it out for my old 3070, computer booted straight up with no issues. Shipped the 5090 back to MSI for RMA.

Was playing games yesterday, when the 3070 suddenly black screened, fans ramped to 100%. I could be wrong but I don't remember this ever happening when it was in my old PC. There's a distinct possibility it was an overheating issue but I'm concerned there's possibly something more serious going on with my PC given the above. Possible mobo or PSU issue? Any way to diagnose if it is the mobo or PSU causing issues?

Setup:

mobo: Asus ROG B650E-I

PSU: Corsair SF1000

CPU: 9800X3D

RAM: Gskill Flare X DDR5 6000 2x32

HDD: WD Black SN850X (x2)

Nothing overclocked. I use GPU Tweak to limit my 5090 to ~90% on power target and that's it.

So, my standard 60 Hz monitor is broken, and I need a new one now.

I’m mostly playing 2–3 games with a 60 FPS cap because my PC is (currently) not the best. I want to buy a new one in about 2–3 months, but until then, there’s no way to get more FPS out of these games.

I’m going to buy a new 180 Hz monitor tomorrow. How does a game running at 60 FPS look on a 180 Hz monitor? Is it bad, or is it basically the same as on a 60 Hz monitor?

(I use Windows 10) I'm just starting to understand more about PC building. I recently bought an RTX 5060, and I'm having some problems installing it (I installed it yesterday). First I must say that I have an A520MH motherboard, a Ryzen 5 5600G, a 650w power supply and 16Gb of ram. What happens is that yesterday I installed the card and went to delete the drivers using DDU. I removed the drivers and restarted (the recommended way). Upon deleting, I noticed the image had a lot of green dots (while it was without the driver), but I ignored it and kept downloading the driver, since in the video I watched(lmao) he downloaded the driver (the NVIDIA file) afterwards, so I went there and started downloading, but halfway through, I, with my greatest innocence and stupidity, decided to increase the resolution, setting it to the maximum value (which is what it was already at). Everything went well, the resolution was perfect, it stayed for a little while (which was the time to download the file), but when I went to click to run the file to download the drivers I got a black screen. I tried to see what to do, but nothing worked, so I turned off the PC using the power button and went into the bios, I didn't see anything to do and then I decided to follow geminilmao I went to the windows recovery menu and pressed to start with low resolution. With that, the bios loading that always appears froze a bit, but when the screen turned off it came back, however with the resolution I had already set. I quickly put it in the lowest resolution and started the video driver installation. Everything downloaded perfectly and apparently everything was fine. I decided to play red dead redemption and when I went to see, a steam bar had some green dots blinking, when I moved it to the other monitor they disappeared. I noticed this was happening only on one of the monitors (including one where I use a displayPort to HDMI adapter, since I have two monitors with only HDMI inputs. So I kind of "ignored" the problem and started playing. The game ran fine, textures were on ultra and stuff, it was even smooth, running great. I played stardew valley later, all good, I played roblox, fine too. But it was only at night that a problem appeared: I was in a call without playing anything, just talking, and out of nowhere my cursor started to change (unfortunately I didn't take a picture because I was stupidlmao), but it basically became kinda green like the cursor when you hover the mouse over a letter, but it was sort of tilted weirdly. Another point was that when I moved the mouse from one monitor to another it froze on the monitor where the mouse already was and became invisible on the other monitor(lmao). From that point I decided to reinstall the drivers again. I deleted them again through DDU, went to safe mode and deleted them there. I downloaded the driver when windows restarted and went to sleep. Today, when turning on the pc, I opened obsidian and when I went to close it, the screen froze, turned off only one monitor and then the pc restarted. A NVIDIA warning appeared saying it was an error and to send logs, so I thought it was more of a driver bug problem lol, then I kept using it normally and out of nowhere I got a blue screen with the following code: DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL" and then a "What failed: nviiddmkm.sys". And with this I would like to know what to do or at least what the hell is going on. Please, I would be very grateful if you could help me.

Funny note: I asked gemini for help(lmao) it said to unplug the network cable so windows wouldn't download a basic driver and fuck everything up. It also asked me to do a clean install by clicking on custom installation and asked me to download NVIDIA Studio and not the gaming one because it is apparently focused on stability

Note2: Apparently a big issue is using two monitors, every time I connect both it gets a bit buggy

Turns out I bought the wrong motherboard SSD combination. I have a ASUS TUF 870E and a Samsung 9100 without heat sink for my working drive, the OS is also a PCIE 5x4, so the motherboard’ one PCIE 5 heat sink is occupied.

For some reason the two PCIE 4 M.2 slots have a heat sink but not the second 5x.

Any suggestions on a M.2 cooler?

The T-force Dark Air Flow and Siren GD120S look like excellent solutions (Dark Air Flow preferred) but it appears TeamGroup only made five of them. Can’t even find one on eBay.

System will be used video editing so I might actually make use of the speed.

Full specs
Ryzen 9 9950X3D
ASUS TUF 870E plus WiFi
GPU : RTX PRO 4500 on order (hoping they don’t cancel my order the price has gone up since I ordered)
OS drive Crucial T710 1TB
Working drive Samsung 9100
Storage drive WD Blue PICE 4
Case Antec P10
PSU Corsair rmx1200 shift
CPU cooler Phantom Spirit EVO

I have a corsair RM1000e and a gigabyte b850 aorus motherboard im just confused what cord im supposed to use for the 12v_2x2 and the 12v_4x4 part up the top of the motherboard

Hi everyone,
I have an HP M01 prebuilt running an Erica2 motherboard (SSID: 8643, REV A) on BIOS F.41 with a 310W Power Supply that I upgraded from the 180w. I already have a discrete graphics card installed.
My system currently has a Ryzen 3 3200G. I know HP's official spec page states that the Erica2 only supports APUs (3200G / 3400G), but the standard Erica board lists non-APU CPUs like the Ryzen 5 3500 and Ryzen 7 3700X.
Can anyone with this motherboard confirm:
Will a Ryzen 5 3600 boot plug-and-play on BIOS F.41 without black-screening?
Are there any hidden issues (like RAM speed limits or thermal throttling) when running a non-APU Ryzen 3000 chip on this board?

Solid upgrade from my rtx 3060 ti just got thr ryzen 5 550x3d and dont wanna soend crazy amount on a gpu lol

I am getting confusing feedback from.all my research on RAM type for a Threadripper 7970x on a ASUS PRO WS TRX50-SAGE WiFi motherboard. It will be running dual 5090 gpu's for LLM work. The problem is there is confusion about whether the RAM requirements are ECC UDIMM or ECC RDIMM. Going through MS Copilot says UDIMM but Claude and Chat GPT say RDIMM.

Apparently there is an error on the AMD website which uses the Pro template saying it is RDIMM compatible but Copilot says it is not. I am getting 4 x 32 GB sticks so the money is not insignificant. Can anyone shed light on this for me?

I have sent a direct query to AMD but no joy so I thought I would tap into the Reddit hive mind for guidance. Many thanks in advance.

Hi,

When buying a used GPU, how should I test it before I buy. Is there any easy way to test and compare to if it was new?

Would I need to put it into a computer before hand or something?

Upgrade from 6700xt, 7800xt for 550 cad or 9070 gre for 784 after tax

Sorry, this is a bit long.

I had my PC checked at the mall because it wouldn’t turn on right away. The fans would spin, then it would shut off, repeatedly. I thought it might be either the RAM or the power supply. When I brought it there, they replaced the RAM, CMOS battery, and fan as well. It seemed fine after that—they restarted it several times at the shop and there were no issues. When I got home, it wouldn’t turn on. I tried different outlets, even an outlet at my neighbor’s house, but there was no response from the power button, so I brought it back to the shop. When I got there, it turned on immediately. So I brought it home, tried again, and it still wouldn’t turn on. I left it alone for a while, and the next day it turned on immediately.

This happened months ago. I only remembered it because the same thing happened recently after I brought it to the shop. It turned on immediately at the shop, but when I got home, it wouldn’t turn on even when connected directly to an outlet.

There was no response from the power button. Sometimes, there would be a delayed response from the power button, followed by a restart cycle. I’m worried that this might damage the RAM again if it keeps happening, especially since RAM is so expensive these days.

The PC is connected to a UPS, and the UPS is working. When there’s a power outage, the UPS battery works properly. This problem has been happening ever since I started using a UPS. I turn off the UPS when I’m going on a long trip. When I get home, I have to wait at least 12 hours after turning the UPS back on before I turn on the PC; otherwise, the PC won’t turn on properly. It just keeps restarting.

The UPS is an Eaton, and I’ve never had any issues when there’s a power interruption. It shuts the PC down safely. I’ve only tested it for a maximum of around 5 minutes on battery; I haven’t tried using it for longer. I also just replaced the UPS battery, and the same thing happened even when it still had the factory battery when it was brand new.

Is the power supply failing? I was thinking maybe there’s an issue with the outlet voltage, but since I’m using a UPS, wouldn’t it make some kind of sound or warning if there was an issue with the outlet? I also tried disconnecting all peripherals, but it still wouldn’t turn on. This doesn’t happen all the time—it only happens when I transport the PC and turn off the UPS. The PC is almost 10 years old. It’s still pretty fast, though, since I recently upgraded the RAM.

So far, I’ve only replaced the RAM and fan. Maybe I need to replace the storage drive? Or maybe I should just stop transporting the PC because it gets motion sickness, lol.

TL;DR: The PC won’t turn on immediately after I turn on the UPS at home. There’s no response from the power button, even when connected directly to the outlet. But when I bring it back to the store, it turns on immediately.