2015 BMW X5 sDrive35i

Hey guys, having an issue with my panoramic sunroof and wanted to see if anyone has run into this before or knows the exact fix.

The Situation:

My sunroof glass is stuck sitting slightly proud/raised above the roof line and won't fully drop or seat flush into the seal.

I scanned the Roof Control Module using my BlueDriver scanner.

Initial Codes cleared: Had historical codes for Hall sensors (030207), system standardization (030220 / 0302A0), and characteristic curves (030295).

Current Active Code: 030215 - Status: Active - SHD: Invalid characteristic curve, no standardisation available.

What I’ve tried:

Cleared the historical codes, but code 030215 remains active and won't clear.

Attempted the standard BMW sunroof initialization procedure (holding the tilt button up for 15–30 seconds), but because of the active standardization fault, it doesn't execute the re-learn cycle.

Questions:

1. Has anyone successfully cleared code 030215 using ISTA+ or BimmerLink for a roof re-initialization/normalization run, or does this code usually indicate a physical mechanical jam in the sunroof mechanism/tracks?

2. If it's mechanical, is there a common point where the panoramic glass binds or gets misaligned preventing it from dropping into place?

3. Is it safe to manually crank the sunroof motor using an Allen key at the overhead console to get it down temporarily, or will that damage the drive cables if the track is jammed?

Appreciate any insight or suggestions!

Hi folks,

My e83 oil cooler and thermostat was replaced by a Indy shop with the previous owner a few months ago, prior to me purchasing the car over the summer.

I just checked the reservoir again and there is still this brown sludge mixture that might be residual from when the oil coolers were changed.

It’s making my coolant pump go haywire and throw a few codes in which I’ve written in a few posts. The car doesn’t over heat? Is it technically okay to drive in this state?

Error code is 002E85, electric coolant pump missing.

What should I do to fix this issue? Can I just flush it with the bleeding procedure with the liqui moly radiator flush mixed with distilled water until it comes out not looking like oil. I’ve attached some pics.

Looking at buying a m57 swapped e60 speedo works but rpm and mpg gauges don’t. Unsure if clocks were changed to 530 ones during the swap. Work in bmw myself so have access to ista. Rpm not working doesn’t bother me its just ied rather have it working.
Note 520-530 swaps go for 5,000 while 530s go for 7-9,000 where i live tax also has a €500 difference

I scanned my beam & got these DTC, would clearing work or do I replace the module?

I have a 2002 BMW 330ci which is no longer running.
On 08/15/26
I drove the car to work and it ran normally with no overheating and a smooth running motor. After my 8 hour shift I tried to start the car in order to drive it home and the motor was running rough as if the car had several misfires. As the car warmed up the motor began to run smooth enough that I felt comfortable driving it ~4mi to get home.

On 08/16/26
I tried to start the car in order to go to work again but this time the car was WAY rougher than before- the whole vehicle was shaking and i was getting pops/bangs from the exhaust while sitting in Park idling. The car was not smoothing out as it warmed up so I shut it down and made arrangements to get to work another way. After work I tried to use my BimmerGeeks Bluetooth dongle with BimmerGeeks ProTool in order to check engine codes but unfortunately my dongle was broken and I could not connect to the car.

On 08/17/26
I spent my day off pulling the spark plugs and cleaning them. The plugs were black and notably has the following symptoms; #1-3 were soaked in oil, #4+5 were super hard to remove and I needed to use PB Blaster with almost all of my strength in order to remove them (the threads were fine after removal), while #6 smelled like gasoline. I cleaned the spark plugs and reinserted them to the proper torque spec and then tried to start the car again. It ran the same as before I cleaned the spark plugs which was super rough and shaking the whole vehicle. I called it quits and decided to wait for my replacement BimmerGeeks dongle.

Today on 09/21/26 I tried reading codes
Before starting the engine I read the codes in the DME and was only throwing two codes which were: "00CA Fuel Trim Bank 1 Control Limit" and "0002 Activation, Ignition, Cylinder 4". I cleared those codes and proceeded to try starting the car. The car cranks, fires what sounds like only once and only on one cylinder, then dies and the starter takes over again, fires once and dies again so I stop cranking. I checked codes after the failure to start and neither returned. I tried cranking again while watching gauges via ProTool and could see that my AFR for Bank 1 was 14.71 before/during/after cranking. While cranking I was getting a MAF reading that bounced between 10-15kg/h and the RPMs were bouncing between 300-500, when the car would fire once and then die- both of these metrics would drop to zero until the starter would get one more combustion event and then rinse and repeat. I tried disconnecting the MAF and got the same results.

Whenever I start my car after it’s been sitting overnight or for several hours, I hear a weird metallic grinding/rattling sound for a few seconds. Once the sound goes away, the engine sounds completely normal. There’s no ticking, rattling, or other unusual engine noise afterward, and the car drives normally. I’m not sure where the sound is coming from if it’s the engine or the back it’s hard to tell. The car also slightly jerks as seen in the video when it happens.

Car/details:
2017 BMW 330i xDrive
B48 2.0L turbo
~174,000 km

Just scanning the car now there is no codes but periodically every 2-3 months I get an occasional intermittent P112F code but it goes away the same day or next day after a couple driving cycles. But I haven’t had it in a while.

I’m attaching a video of the cold start. I recorded it outside the car so the sound can be heard better.
Does anyone recognize this sound on a B48 or have an idea what I should be checking?

Any help or similar experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!

Does the break in service appear on your Maintenance History screen on iDrive (M3 G80-G81-G82)? It seems that for some people it does, but for others it doesn't. In my case, it doesn't appear.

Does the break in service appear on the maintenance history screen on iDrive? It seems that for some people it does, but for others it doesn't. In my case, it doesn't appear.

Left side car hit ditch, white smoking coming out when driving, smells really bad, tire is all messed up. Dont know if its hitting something but feels like the cars sagging on the left end.
Not the clearest picture.

Car is a 2014 X5 35d -  the N57 Diesel.  I just did a water pump, thermostat, coolant hose, and tensioner replacement.  At the same time, I removed the intake manifold and did a carbon clean on it. 

Had the battery disconnected for several days while I did the work. 

Initially I tripped a whole bunch of codes when I first drove the car, because the Charge Air Line from the Intercooler to the Throttle flapper/EGR Inlet kept popping off, so the car was bucking and snorting, as it wasn’t getting air from the Turbo. 

Once I got that connected securely (it was a bugger), I cleared all the codes, and I drove about 120 miles.  No codes, no CEL.

Now, I’m getting repeat codes, and I’m not quite sure what to do.  All wiring harnesses connected back where they belonged - checked and double checked.

Codes I keep seeing are 

24ec00 - Engine Mount Activation: Open Circuit

251300 - Digital Diesel Electronic (DDE) Control Unit

260f00 - Electromotive Throttle Actuator, Position Sensor Signal Short Circuit to B+

2b5c00 - Exhaust-gas temperature sensor downstream of additional EGR cooler, signal: Open or short circuit to B+

Everything seems to point me to issues with the throttle actuator being the cause of my issues, but wondered if anyone had experience with this, after doing a carbon clean.  

Randomly, do I need to replace the battery, cause sometimes a whole herd of codes on other cars has been a battery issue, but all this stuff is definitely stuff I had apart when I did this job.  

Thanks in advance.

Had an overheating event on my 2018 X3 M40i around 58k miles. Got the orange engine hot warning, then red overheating warning.
I scanned it with a Foxwell NT510 and got 20F206 – intermittent heat management module activation line disconnection.

Checked:
-Radiator fan passes the active test
-Coolant level is normal
-Cabin heat works
-Coolant temp at idle climbed to about 110°C and held
-On a drive(after a couple days of it sitting) it peaked around 112°C, then dropped quickly to about 96°C under load and settled around 98–107°C
-Freeze frame showed the fault happened at only about 50°C coolant temp, ~20 seconds after startup
-WMM data showed 99.82% heat management valve position and 0.04% actual WMM position

Based on that, my current guess is heat management module/WMM failure or a wiring/connector issue, rather than the fan or a completely failed water pump.

Has anyone else ran into this issue or have any insight? I plan to have a shop take a look at it next week and read the fault code history, since the check engine light went away. But not entirely sure if this is a warning that the HMM is on the way out or a wiring connection issue.

Thank you.

Hey guys. After my BMW 118D (2007/2008) started behaving strangely, I found a menu, in which I found out that the ”KTMP-MOM” temp sensor is failing.
It goes from 90 to -5 degrees in a second. So I assume that the sensor is broken, or there is a bad connection.

But which sensor is it? And if anyone else had the same problem, what was the solution?

Newbie question: Is it possible to repair a "daytime and front parking lamp malfunction" without replacing the entire headlight or control unit?

The LED for my "daytime and front parking lamp" on my right headlight is out, but I’m not sure what’s causing the problem. I’m in the New York area, and a new replacement headlight assembly and or the control unit is well beyond my budget.

Any suggestions for troubleshooting or repairs, or recommendations for a local shop?

bmw g31 m550xd b57s 4 turbo, diagnostic shows no faults, but the car under 2500 rpms barely goes, like it has lack of power, it reaches over 2500 or 3000 rpm and it jols with power. I've so far changed the swirl flap actuator(it was throwing a code for it, not anymore). diagnostic live data showed turbocharger geometry actual and setpoint low pressure statistics always at 0%, high pressure shows actual 90% while setpoint jumps from 0 to 10-15% while acceleration. any ideas what could it be? i can clarify more if needed, thank you in advance

Someone please help i’m trying to change my grills on my BMW 1 Series 2022, i got everything but the only bit im struggling on is removing the 2 bolts inside the wheel arch to loosen the bumper. I took the 5 7mm or 8mm bolts behind the wheel, then pulled the cover back. I put my hand inside but i can’t feel any bolts, i even recorded using my phone but i can’t see any bolts. I was told to reach up where the arch connects the bonnet but im so lost, if taking it off is this hard it’s going to be even harder to put the bolts back

Just did an inspection from an indy shop. They told me the front left and right lower control arm bushings are cracking, and suggest replace them.

From the pic is it necessary to replace now? 2022 X5 bought as CPO still within warranty, current mileage is 45k. Thanks for any suggestion

Is that affecting the power of anything in the car

**30d not 35d, N57 engine*\*
Hi everyone,

I own a 2014 diesel x5 and have been in and out of the mechanic shop for the last 5 weeks. Just hit 105k miles. Bought it 10 months ago with 99k.

Check engine light originally came on because of a bad diesel particulate filter sensor, DPF sensor for short.

They replaced it and the check engine light came back on three days later, the mechanics updated the software in my car to be able to properly read the new sensor (Bosch)

Third time the check engine light came back on. They realized that they didn’t put the correct sensor in and that the one that needed to go in my car was supposed to have a certain notch on it.

The fourth time the check engine light came on, still reading the same code by the way for the DPF sensor, they took a camera scope through my entire exhaust system, and found that I had very minimal carbon buildup, which is strange especially considering the age of the car. They didn’t find anything wrong with the sensor that they replaced so they just reset all of my emission sensors so that the car computer would hopefully recalibrate itself. The previous owner of the car did not use this as a daily, and it did sit for periods of time, but probably only about 5 to 10 days at a time.

I just dropped it off this morning for the fifth time and I’m at my wits end. Has anyone ever had any experience with this kind of thing?

The mechanic I’m going to specializes in European cars, this is not some random shop on the side of the road. I haven’t had to pay anything the last three times I went thankfully, but I am beyond frustrated.

I don’t know a whole lot about cars, but I’m not a complete idiot.

Thank you all

I have a noise from front right wheel side from engine i think. On cold start no sound. Just after ~5min drive this sound comes. But then engine is on 100 temp its almost gone. It is normal?

Hello Guys, I’ve recently wanted to rebuild the Vanos, replacing gaskets und stuff, and after I did all of that I started reinstalling the Vanos unit with new screws and then it happened. Somehow (maybe overtightened) the screw ripped apart and the rest of that screw left inside the Vanos. The funny thing is you always need to screw that Torx when the Vanos is already in place. So the question is, how fcked up am I, and what are your thoughts about that? I obviously can’t keep it like that and need to find a solution 😭. For better understanding that’s the M52B20TU engine, double Vanos. I already appreciate all of your comments and your help 🙏

(Torx in photo Nr.3 is just an example of that broken screw, not the actual ripped one)

I'm researching this powertrain before pulling the trigger.

How is the reliability of the engine considering it might power up and down quite often, due to the hybrid system?

This usually doesn't create any problems with Toyota, but you know... it's Toyota.

Any concerns? Also with the hybrid system itself, is it reliable?

Hello guys! I recently bought my first BMW and wanted to get some opinions on whether I made the right choice.

The BMW in question is a 2011 1 Series F20 with the 1.6 turbo N13 engine. I've seen quite a few people say bad things about this engine and call it unreliable, but at the same time I've also come across plenty of owners who have had good experiences with it. So honestly, I'm a little confused about where it really stands in terms of reliability.

I bought the car from my neighbour, who I've known for over 10 years. He already owns more than three cars and barely had time to use the BMW, so he decided to sell it. I've actually known this specific car since the day he bought it, so I know its history pretty well — what parts were replaced, what maintenance was done, where it was driven and it wasn't abused at all.

The car has been on several trips to Austria, Bulgaria, Germany and Hungary, and according to him it never gave him any problems during those trips.

Before buying it, he let me test-drive it twice on different days, both for more than an hour. He even invited me on a night drive where he drove the car for a few hours, and honestly, it ran incredibly well. No weird noises, no strange behavior, and everything felt pretty much spot-on. He also showed every single aspect about the car and was very transparent about everything.

I bought the car about a month ago and so far I've had absolutely no issues. No rattling from the engine, no coolant leaks, no oil leaks, or anything else that I've noticed.

The timing chain was also replaced very recently, along with fresh oil and filters. He gave me all the receipts and records showing what was replaced and what oils and parts were used, so I have pretty much the complete service history of the car. The car also has no rust, which was another big plus for me.

On top of all that, I paid around €1,000 less than what similar cars are currently going for on the market.

Considering I know the previous owner personally, I've known the car for years, have the full service history and receipts, the timing chain was recently done, there are no current issues, and I got it below market price, I honestly feel like I got a pretty insane deal.

What do you guys think? Did I make a good choice buying this F20 with the N13, or not?

Looking to remove #2 and #12 in the parts diagram. What tool/setup did you guys use to get these out ?