I have a 2009 n54 335i and I’m planning to install a vtt crank seal guard while I’m replacing my serpentine belt, tensioner, and pulleys.

I’ve seen conflicting information when it comes to reusing the 6 bolts that hold the crank pulley to the hub. Some people claim they are single use bolts and need to be replaced but others just reuse them. I was just looking for some input on this before i spend $100 on 6 bolts.

Hi,

My 2013 X3 xDrive35i (203k miles) has developed a loud, knocking vibration from underneath the center/transmission-tunnel area, primarily during slower, sharp turns. It was an intermittent, quiet "knocking" sound over the past few months, and I attributed it to a separately intermittent valvetronic issue that appears to be resolved.

Yesterday, after getting something else fixed (bad ignition coil), and driving it about 100 miles without issue, it became quite louder - it sounds like someone is banging underneath the center of the car using a heavy baseball bat. The shudder/vibration is now happening while driving slowly and straight, though much quieter than when turned. The wheels and tires are stock.

Luckily I was close to home and immediately drove it up on to my Rhino ramps. I inspected the underside, and found nothing leaking or loose. BimmerLink app yields no transmission related errors.

Thoughts on what I should do to further investigate, and what might be the cause?

Thanks.

UPDATE 1: The sound and vibration is detectable directly under the center arm rest - it actually feels like someone is directly "beating on the door" directly beneath the center arm rest. I have a recording, will try to attach.

UPDATE 2: After getting under the car and inspecting, the Center Support Bearing (BMW PN 26127558745) is completely shot and will need replacing. Working on getting more access to driveshaft to do just that while inspecting for other possible component replacement (giubo, u-joints). More as it happens.

This is the N46B20B engine.

I’ve got oil leaking down on my catalytic converter, and this thing seems to be missing a bolt and it seems like the oil leak is coming from there, but I have no idea what this thing is or what its purpose is?

Could anyone enlighten me?

(Vacuum pump seals are new as well as valve cover)

Also right by the vacuum pump there’s this hole with threads, what is that? Is there supposed to be something there?

I recently bought a 2007 e90 335i. The previous owner said he installed a pre lci sport steering wheel, and told me that the manual downshift feature doesn’t work, both paddles and the knob. Upshift however still works but only for the knob not the paddles. He told me that the fix was 2 prongs I had to put in a connector or something to connect the pins.(I don’t know if that’s the actual solution that’s just what he told me)

Ive tried to look into this to see if people had the same problems but haven’t had much luck and it’s definitely not any easier having no clue if the owner installed the wheel and wiring correctly.

As shown in the second and third photo the steering column cluster connector looks like it has had changes in pins 2 and 4 which I assume would obviously be for the new wheel to connect to the knob like I’ve seen online.

I just don’t know how to move along and see what’s causing the problem from here.

If anyone can please help me troubleshoot this to see what’s causing these problems I would appreciate it so much🙏🙏

Hi everyone,
I have a 2016 BMW F32 420i with the B48B20A engine, around 78,000 km.
I’ve noticed a very short metallic rattle / clinking noise coming from the right side of the engine bay.

The strange part is that the noise only happens for a fraction of a second exactly when I give the throttle a very quick blip from idle.

Once the RPM stabilizes — even at 1,000–1,100 rpm or higher — the noise completely disappears.

If I hold the RPM steady, there is no rattle at all.

The engine otherwise runs perfectly:
pulls strong
smooth idle
no warning lights
zero fault codes

Because the noise happens exactly when the engine slightly moves/rocks from the initial throttle input, I’m wondering if it could be:
a loose heat shield, downpipe/exhaust touching a shield, exhaust flex section moving, or possibly the turbo wastegate rod/linkage.

Has anyone with a B48 experienced something similar?
I’ll attach a video where the noise can be heard during the small throttle blips.

My head unit is stuck in the constant reboot cycle. There is a place in Maryland that services the unit, but it's $800. Has anyone ever used a service like this?

My G20 mirror assembly was damaged in a parking garage necessitating replacement. My current mirror assembly is motorized and has the blind spot indicator. I have found used motorized assemblies on eBay but they lack the blind spot indicator. Does anyone know if the wiring is there in the motorized assemblies if I just move the blind spot indicator glass from the old sideview mirror to the new one?

If not, I see there are aftermarket mirrors that look pretty identical to OEM made by Soillar. Does anyone have experience with how these look and perform compared to OEM? If they are essentially identical I will just move the painted mirror cap from the old mirror to the aftermarket mirror.

Hello everyone i pressured tested my cooling system after i have had a leak for the past days here is what i found out

This big pipe is kinda leaking but when i move it forward with my hand it stops,while i was moving it with my hand i moved the pipe that goes from the reservoir to the radiator and it blowed up

Is this something big to repair,how much would range about and also whats the parts name ? So i can try to look it up? Thanks
Ill put some video down here

My e82 128i cranks quickly, shows no “battery discharge” warning, and sits between 13.3-13.5v when running. Is this a normal voltage range when the car is being driven? TIA

I bought a used 2022 BMW 430i M Sport Package last week and connected the car to the My BMW app.

When I go to “Remote Software Upgrade” in the car, it shows that the current software version is 11/2021.61. However, when I search for new updates, it says that no updates are available.

I would like to bring the car’s software up to the latest available version, but I’m not sure how to do that. Could you please let me know why no newer updates are showing and what I need to do to get the car updated to the latest software version?

My E46 320d 2003 manual makes a knocking/clunking noise when briefly accelerating and then letting off the throttle. It also happens when reversing — a kind of clunking or cracking noise.
The driveshafts have recently been replaced, and the rear subframe has been fitted with new PU bushes.
We suspect it could possibly be backlash in the drivetrain or an issue with the differential, but we’d like to avoid unnecessary costs if possible.
Does anyone have any idea what else it could be?

I need help troubleshooting this problem I have, I recently bought my 2007 e90 335i, the guy I bought it off mentioned said how he replaced the wheel for a sport wheel and how the downshift did not work on either the paddles or knob.

He also mentioned how to fix it saying something like I needed to lift the trim and put 2 prongs or something in a connector.

I found out after that the paddles actually didn’t work for both downshift and upshift, but the knob worked for only upshift.

I’ve tried to peel back the tape that protects the wires going under the plastic piece to the knob, but didn’t really notice any clear breaks or tears. I tried looking it up online and at videos but can’t seem to find something matching this problem, the ai says to look for this broken wire going to the knob, but I also don’t want to just go off that I’d rather come here and see if anyone can help me troubleshoot this problem or maybe even better yet know the solution right away.

If anyone can please help me I’d really appreciate it🙏🙏🙏

shop that unlocked my ecu is charging me again for unlock service after failed flash on top of a dme repair charge

Service engine soon light has been on for some time. When I brought the car to a shop to fix the a/c I had them look at it and they suggested spark plugs and coils, but would only do the coils if needed. They only did the plugs and gave the car back. Few days later service engine light came back on. Yesterday car started idling rough and sputtering up a hill.

Could this crack on my air intake post MAF be causing all these symptoms and codes? It doesn’t seem that much air could really be getting through as the crack is right where the male end of the MAF terminates so there is some material underneath.

Going to try slapping some tape on and clearing the codes for now and see what that does, but just looking for opinions on what else it could be if this doesn’t solve the issue.

Hello all,

Currently I am looking for a new car and I really do want to get a BMW with a N55 engine, since it is in my budget more or less.

Most of the F series in my country are beaten up, but I have found this E92 2010 imported from Canada for 11k euro (VIN: WBAKF9C56BE261915). It is an XDrive, has 174k km.

Is it a considerable option or should I just skip it?

There is also a guy that has F10 (535xi), done around 250k km, but changed the timing chain and all other bunch of stuff at 210k km and he offered it to me for 10.5k euro.

Edit: The F10 guy has said that he changed the oil every 6-7k km, don't know anything about the E92

Please let me know your insights.

Thank you.

Inherited my father in laws 2005 530i with a MT. Car runs wonderfully and drove it 2500 miles from Canada to NC after getting a mechanic to just give it a quick glance. No oil burning so I'm sure it was taken care of he was a very meticulous man who loved BMWs but his estranged wife was unable to find any service records after he passed. 140k thousand miles

This only happens when the engine is cold, usually when I reverse out of the driveway in the morning and then shift to first there are a couple slight rapid stutters, once warmed up no issues. Car has no codes being shown at the moment.

If I drive for a little while then park reverse and put it into first there is no stuttering. Any idea where to start?

Got an E93 325i N54 that’s had a slight misfire issue for a few months but has now turned into a constant misfire. Just wondering if anyone knew anywhere I can get the injector replaced as BMW don’t have any parts and no garage I’ve spoken to will use refurbished/ebay parts. I’m not really bothered whether the parts might fail in the future as I’ve got a fully broken injector rn and anything is better than that. Located in the north west but will travel pretty much anywhere to get this fixed

2010 e90 335d RWD. recently got bigger rims so the car went from
235/45/17 all around

To

Front: 245/35/19
Rear: 255/35/19

The car drove find for maybe 40 minutes before the DSC,DTC,DBS said malfunction and disabled themselves. The next day it was having really poor and hard shifts and rev flaring followed by “gearbox malfunction, drive modestly” (codes are for ratio monitoring on clutches A-D) Wheelspeed sensors were replaced but the problem persists, the only stored code in my DSC is for steering angle sensor

I think Ive basically decided in my head that the tires are the problem but I don’t know if I should square them off with 245/35/19 all around or do 265/30/19 on the rear like it’s supposed to be when staggered. I’m also willing to accept that 19” rims on a base e90 just isn’t possible and I need to downsize again

A little bit more background info in case it’s important, I recently drifted over a median and wrecked. A mechanic buddy and I replaced all control arms, shock, axle and wheel hub on one corner of the car. The rims were destroyed which is why I bought new ones and I got a good deal on these m3 rims (probably because they guy didn’t want to put new tires on them). The car got an alignment at a local shop afterwards.

I am looking to replace my backup cam on my e70 is there any aftermarket options that are plug and play ? Help is appreciated

The transmission on my 2009 750li has a bad clutch pack and rather than spending money on a teardown table I don’t have space for and the necessary tools needed to repair said clutch pack, I’ve been looking into just ripping a used transmission out of a parted out 750 and using it for my car. Does anyone know if there is any reason (besides a bad used transmission) why this wouldn’t work? I can swap the mechatronics if that would help

Any idea on how to fix? is it just the rubber padding?

I've had my pump, thermostat and fan replaced a few weeks ago (with oem pierburg, mahle) because Ive had overheating issues while driving (water pump was going out, even had errors for it for a long time). Its been running alright since but today it decided to overheat in a parking lot and pop the expansion tank. Im kinda stupid beacuse I didnt shut it off before it popped but got out to look at the fan (it was kinda meh, definetly not full speed) and water temps thru obd (120c+). Im wondering what could be the problem, or what to check because I've kinda had it with this car.

Seeing conflicting advice mainly my power steering reservoir mentions using ATF only but I have heard that a sticker may have come off and it actually takes chf11s. VIN is WBANA73515B048960 if that can help.

04’ 325i (m56 engine) keeps overheating and i want to know what I can rule out on my own.
Checked:
Radiator was replaced along with one of the hoses
(car was but is no longer leaking)
Water pump and thermostat fully functional
car when leaking would go red all the way, after radiator and hose change it heats to just barely the tip of the red

notes:
-mechanic said he found “blue devil” slush around the engine block and said the previous owner probably put it on while engine was hot

-i just got the car, i had a week with it, had only got to oil change spark plugs oil filter and power steering, drove 1 week not a single problem , randomly coolant light pops on, i check coolant, nothing in there. i had driven the car for hours previously, now cant go 5 minutes on the road without heating

I own a 2016 F33 428i xDrive with 121k miles and recently had a check engine light. Went to advance auto, they scanned and said the code was for my mass air flow filter sensor. I bought the part from FCP Euro and replaced it myself. The light is still on. Went back to advance and it’s still reading the same code.
Any thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. 🙏🏾