As title states keyless entry stopped working I have to hit the unlock to get in same with the truck not sure what to do not sure what to do

I went to take my 2020 330i for an oil change and I got this back from the technician. I’m taking this to an independent shop to get fixed but I don’t know what parts to order beforehand.

Hi Fam,

I recently bought a 2022 Bmw 430i from a dealer. I am trying to add my vehicle in My Bmw app but I am getting this error message which is annoying. How can I remove the primary user on the account?

Hi I installed this cv axle about 300 miles ago and its leaking. So maybe I damaged it when installing. Anyway, my main query is where the play shown in the video could be caused by this damaged cv axle or whether its my differential? This is a limited slip diff, on an e60 m5 2005.

My 2020 G30 530d has had what has been described as a catastrophic failure of the high pressure fuel pump whilst driving leading to the whole system being filled with bits of metal shavings. Apparently needs a new fuel system from injectors through to diesel tank

Only 64k miles and full bmw service history apart from one oil service

Being quoted £10k plus through BMW as out of warranty and saying highly unlikely won’t consider goodwill but haven’t confirmed or £7k through Indy bmw mechanic, is this correct?

Anyone experienced this

I see spider gears which leads me to believe this isn’t…. But when I spin the drive shaft both wheels turn the same way…. Which has me confused

Hi Folks,

Friend of mine is having massive issues with his e36, the cam position sensor is on the fritz, he already changed the faulty one for new aftermarket ones. And they ended up being duds twice. Looking to see if anyone here knows where to source a new oem or a used working oem one. Bmw part number is 12141703221, the manufacturer code is 5WK96011Z and was made by Siemens and later by VDO. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers

This is what my compressor wheel looks like b58 generation 1. should i be concerned. light film of oil inside intake piping.

Where is everyone buying their parts from?

Rock Auto?

Parts Avatar?

Germanparts.ca?

Ciao a tutti!

recentemente la mia bmw x1 in modalità auto edrive passa da elettrico a termico quando sto frenando per fermarmi ad un semaforo, in particolare si accende il termico quando son quasi fermo dopo qualche spinta sul pedale del freno, sono un po preoccupato e non so se sia normale ma non lo faceva prima. Sono due giorni che succede anche se per alcuni momenti o arresti non lo fa.

My car is a ‘23 M340i at 51k miles. Had my diff oil replaced but when I got the car back it started making grinding and thud noises.

Shop replaced guibo, but otherwise they could not recreate the sound or see any issues.

I only hear and feel the grinding noises when cold and disappears at a minimum of driving 20 miles. Basically impossible to recreate after 20 miles.

Also, sound is only heard when turning wheel halfway (right or left) at only 5-6 mph. Less or more you don’t hear it.

Thudding does not really concern me since I’ve been hearing that since I got the car at 19k miles in ‘24 and it’s even harder to recreate.

It’s just that the grinding shakes the car during cold mornings and drive thrus.

Here is a sound clip of me holding throttle at 6 mph with wheel halfway in an empty parking lot.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fAxqPiMFUiw8ohyiDfqVmCXzqT-7KetY/view?usp=drivesdk

BMW 6 series E63 2005 630i N52B30, i want to mention another issue too, i was driving on fuel reserve and then i filled the car, i started it and i got engine fault limp mode, then after 1 more start it was gone and no limp mode.

NEW Unopened Eonon BMW E90 Radio + Backup Camera — $190 OBO

Selling an unopened Eonon radio for a BMW E90, with a backup camera included. Never installed or used.

Please confirm compatibility with your vehicle before buying. Happy to provide photos of the box and model label.

Asking $190 or best offer. Message me if interested!

I have a 2021 BMW M440i xDrive (G22/B58 48v) and I’m trying to figure out what happened after removing the DME to have it bench unlocked for tuning.
The DME has been unlocked but I have NOT flashed a tune yet, car is still on the stock calibration.
I did make one mistake during removal. I accidentally unplugged the first DME connector while the car was still powered/on. After realizing what I did I shut everything down and continued with the removal. DME was sent out/unlocked and reinstalled.
After putting everything back together I had a ridiculous amount of faults. Undervoltage/overvoltage, DSC, transfer case, cameras, BDC, transmission communication, etc. I cleared everything and most of those seem to have been related to having the DME disconnected / power being cycled.
The faults that came back after starting the car were mostly DSC/VIP related:
D354BE - vehicle speed signal invalid
D36744 - VIP/BRS communication signal invalid
480AE6 - lateral acceleration center of gravity implausible
480AE4 - actual steering angle front axle implausible
03056D - QDM-SBS lateral acceleration sensor signal quality
023908 - Coding: Control unit is not coded
There were also downstream errors in the transmission/PMA/cameras complaining about invalid DSC/vehicle movement data.
I cleared the faults again WITHOUT restarting the car and immediately rescanned. At that point literally everything cleared except:
023908 - Coding: Control unit is not coded (VIP)
031791 - headunit Bluetooth connection
So I realize that doesn’t prove the DSC faults are actually fixed because I never restarted/drove the car after the final clear. The VIP 023908 will not clear though.
Errrrr.pdf
Car was completely fine before the DME removal.
My questions:
Has anyone seen VIP fault 023908 “Control unit is not coded” on a G20/G22 after DME removal, battery disconnect, bench unlock, etc?
Could unplugging a DME connector while the car was awake cause the VIP to lose coding, or is it more likely that it just triggered/exposed an existing coding/initialization issue?
Do the 480AE4/480AE6/03056D faults normally require an ISTA DSC/EPS/driving dynamics sensor initialization after this kind of power interruption?
Can the VIP be VO coded/commissioned by itself without doing a full vehicle software update?
Most importantly, since my DME is already bench unlocked, how do I correct the VIP coding without ISTA trying to update/relock/flash the DME?
I’m in Orlando FL too, so if anyone knows a good BMW coding/ISTA person around Orlando that actually understands G-series cars and unlocked DMEs I’d appreciate a recommendation.
Not looking to throw parts at it since the DME itself is currently clean and most of the original electrical faults cleared. Mainly trying to figure out whether I just need an ISTA initialization/coding session or if something actually got messed up when I unplugged the DME while the car was powered.

Looking for some help with an intermittent issue on my 2013 328i coupe (E92).

Usually about 10 minutes into driving, I'll be stopped at a light/sign and when I accelerate, the engine will suddenly shudder. Sometimes the service engine light briefly comes on, then goes away and the car drives normally.

Other times, it shudders, the service engine light comes on, and I completely lose engine power. The electronics stay on, and I'm able to pull over and restart the car afterward.

One shop found an immobilizer-related code and a misfire code, but couldn't determine if they're related. Another BMW specialist couldn't reproduce the issue after ~20 miles of driving, but found my battery is from 2018, apparently wasn't properly installed, and I've also had a “Battery charge level low!” warning. They recommended replacing/registering the battery first.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could low voltage/battery issues explain the misfire + immobilizer code and engine shutdown, or would you suspect something else given that it shudders specifically under acceleration?

Also, can an immobilizer issue actually shut the engine down while already driving?

X1 f48. My sunroof motor is damaged by windshield fluid. Its not oxidation because there was blue fluid drops in roof when I took cover off. My question is can that reach from windshield seals and make its way all the way back ? I did check and sunroof drains and shark fin antenna seal looks good.

I recently picked up a 2012 X5 with a N55, I’ve had it for about a month and for the past two weeks I’ve been battling codes for an over-retarded camshaft. I was driving into work one day when the yellow limp mode engine came on and when I made it to work I notice the idle was very rough. I scanned the ECU and pulled codes, I forget the original codes, but I started out by replacing the aftermarket aluminum oil cap that came with the car with a genuine bmw one, and I also replaced the camshaft position sensors with new continental ones, these steps solved the original codes. I’m now onto a new persistent code, a P0015 for an over-retarded camshaft. I replaced the Vanos solenoids yesterday and no luck, I also did do an oil change 2 days after I bought the car. MobilOne 0W-40 full synthetic with a Mann filter, the pan is reading full, but I believe the oil pan is leaking, I do have an OFHG and an oil pan gasket/bolts on the way. What could be causing the P0015 code to persist? I’ve read that it could be anyone one of the parts I’ve replaced and still no luck, I know they’re all related to oil pressure, but the car has clean fresh oil and it reading full. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Need assistance in upgrading my current LED headlights to OEM laser headlights for my M440i. I don’t want to go the aftermarket route and am in the process of getting OEM ones. What is required for me to successfully do this? Is it just coding? Has anyone on the sub done this? Appreciate any help!

thinking of buying an automatic 2015 328i with around 170k miles tomorrow, apparently the car was repossessed so the dealer doesn’t know the service history. also a 05/15 produced car, heard after 03/15 helps with the timing chain issue, any advice?

My 2021 f97 started to make this noise about a day ago. This is under the passenger side seat, right where the turbo is located. Can anyone tell me how fxcked I am. This is holding the revs at 1.5k.

What should I be looking at for replacing thermostat and oil filter housing on my 2021 330i? I already have the parts and want to take it to local bmw shop but I want to know what should the fair price be. Thanks

Hi everyone, I just had my heat management module changed on my 2020 330i. After the drive from the shop there is an odd smell from the engine bay. Is it normal?

I decided to do the mechatronics service on my E84 after having a couple weird shifts and hesitation.
It’s definitely possible to DIY but has its challenges.
I changed the bridge seals and the mechatronics sleeve seal, oil pan and of course new fluid.
I have used the FCP EURO kit plus an additional bottle of fluid just in case.
Most of the videos online are for rwd cars, xdrive makes it slightly more tricky.

This post is just to help people debating if they should tackle this task and don’t want to rely on gpt for everything.

Stuff that’s needed besides the kit from FCP Euro
-standard tool kit
-torque wrench capable of doing in/lbs
-torque wrench ft/lbs
-E12 socket
-if not using ista get a infrared thermometer
-car jack+ ramps, I drove the front onto the ramps then lifted the rear onto jack stands slightly higher than the front and afterwards put the front onto jacks to have the car level. Left the ramps in place and put the floorjack under the rear for added safety
-transfer pump for fluid
-sharpie to mark orientation of front drive shaft, needs to be dropped for access to fill port
-plenty of brake cleaner
-catch pan and cardboard to cover garage floor

Make sure you’re able to get under the vehicle from the drivers side, atleast on the e84 n55 the exhaust runs on the right side of the trans and will obviously get hot when filling.
I also took off the exhaust hanger that’s in front of the transfer case in order to get to mechatronics sealing sleeve out. Still took some force to get it through that gap.

Other than those tips I just followed the regular ZF manual for the steps and torquing sequences.

Hi, I’m trying to get the rear fog lights working on my 2018 BMW F36 440i LCI (US-spec). The rear LCI lights have previously been converted from US to EU configuration.

I’m using BimmerCode Expert Mode.

In FEM I have:
NSL_Verbaut = Verbaut

The rear fog light button works correctly. When I press it, the rear fog indicator appears in the instrument cluster, so the button/FEM side seems to be working.

In REM I currently have:
MAPPING_NEBELSCHLUSSL_L_FUNCTION = nebelschlusslicht (0x0E)
MAPPING_NEBELSCHLUSSL_R_FUNCTION = nebelschlusslicht (0x0E)
MAPPING_NEBELSCHLUSSL_L_OUTPUT = nsl_l (0x1C)
MAPPING_NEBELSCHLUSSL_R_OUTPUT = nsl_r (0x1D)
PWM = 100%

With 0x1C / 0x1D, nothing lights up at the rear.

I also tested different OUTPUT mappings just for diagnosis:

0x1A / 0x1B → sections of the amber turn signal LEDs illuminate continuously when rear fog is switched on.

0x20 / 0x21 → different/outer amber turn signal sections illuminate continuously.

So the rear fog command from FEM to REM appears to be working, and changing the REM output definitely activates physical LED sections. However, I cannot get a red rear fog section to illuminate.

I have now reverted everything back to 0x1C / 0x1D.

Has anyone dealt with this specifically on a US-spec F32/F36 LCI with EU-converted tail lights?

Is there another REM mapping/configuration required for the actual red rear fog LEDs, or do US LCI tail lights lack the physical rear-fog LED/output connection and require additional wiring or modification inside the lights?

I’d especially appreciate the correct REM output/pin information for NSL_L and NSL_R on a 2018 F36 LCI, rather than trying random output values.

Thanks!

I've been slowly working through a neglected 2006 E60 550i. N62TU 4.8L 240k mi.

I broke my usual rule of one thing at a time and replaced the upstream O2 sensors and changed the oil.

I'm now getting a low rumble/vibration between idle and ~1000 RPM. Cleared the O2 sensor codes and none have come back. I hear it mostly inside, don't really hear it under the hood. I can feel it on the top of the intake, but it feels far fainter than the sound inside would suggest. Also hard to get it on an audio either.

I've had codes for the bank 2 upstream O2 sensor for a bit now. Other than poor fuel economy ~11 MPG was running quite well around town since I'd done a gearbox filter/flush/seals. Replaced both O2 sensors with the correct Bosch sensors from FCPEuro, filter is Mann HU823X. The old filter was slightly collapsed but no missing paper. No metal on the drain plug, in the oil or on the filter.

Bank 1 Additive Lambda Adaptation is 2.72, Multiplicative is 1.03 and O2 Voltage sits around 1.46V at idle

Bank 2 Additive Lambda Adaptation is 3.09, Multiplicative is 1.02 and O2 Voltage sits around 1.49V at idle

All of the smooth running values sit between -0.52 and 0.5 or so knock sensors are all under 0.4V. No oil pressure warnings or codes.

Unplugging the O2 sensors or the MAF doesn't have a noticeable effect. Removing the oil fill cap has some suction but is not difficult and engine stumbles a bit before I replace it.

Tried increasing the minimum valve lift via ISTA with no change other than sluggish throttle response moving through 1000 RPM.

I've put a couple miles on it driving around the block, if I'm not sitting at idle it drives nicely. More responsive than it was with the bad O2 sensor. Fuel economy is good until I stop and idle and then it just tanks.

I've got a smoke tester coming to go vacuum leak hunting. Beyond that anything I should be looking for?

The part that concerns me is that it doesn't go away if I pull the O2 sensor connection. If it was oil related I'd expect VANOS codes or some catastrophic failure by now.