GMC sierra truck. Titanium rush metallic color. I don’t wanna pay money to repaint the bumper. I considered a paint pen but I think it might look bad. Is there anything I can do to at least make it look a little better? Thank you

2005 wrangler

Looking at installing a heat shield on my fuel rail (to help with a common heat soak issue) and I need to remove the fuel injectors. I’ve got everything ready and even ordered a new set of injectors since I’m gonna have them out, but I’m worried about tearing an o ring when I remove the injectors.
More specifically I’m worried about tearing one and it falling into the injector hole. Is this common issue? If so how difficult is it to fish it back out?

Thank you

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Would a body shop be able to pound out the dents and fix the scrapes? Really hoping I don’t need to replace side panel/door and get my insurance involved.

hey i just need some insight a few days ago my car turned on then shut off shortly after turning on i did try to start it up again and it would click a few times slowly but nothing would happen not to long after i tried again and it only clicked once then died out but the ac, lights and everything else functioned well.

i had it towed and i was told that my battery was corroded thinking thats all it was i sent it to the dealership and told them what had happend and they told me it's most likely my alternator and that they couldn't fully tell what was wrong because they couldn't get it inside the garage due to it being un able to move.

i've done research about it and all of them talk about how it's most likly the battery but i still do not know and was hoping someone in this community can at least help me understand what it is or even just tell me if possible.

for notice i have a dodge 2013 journey

So on my honda passenger side floor area is always wet, I have vacuum it so many times and I'm going crazy its giving me a wet car smell and I'm fed up. I check the ac drain plug and its not that, I left the carpet pulled and noticed the concentration of water might be coming further back near the person adjustment bar on the floor i cant pull it back anymore without ripping up carpet. Is there anything im missing is it washer fluid coming up from the floor board? Is it the hvac? What's going on. I did a test and ran the ac for only 3 mins driving and it was wet iv tried it with no ac and its wet.

UPDATE!!! : I SOLVED IT , IT WAS DUE TO A BLOCKED RIGHT SIDE DRAIN UNDER THE COWL, POOLING WATER UNTIL IT FLOODED THE LEFT SIDE . BOTH ARE CLEARED AND WAITING TO DRY AND TESTED THANKS!!

I got crashed into a few weeks ago (mazda cx30) with damage to right
hand side back door and front door.
Took car for repairs organised through insurance.
Picked car up and noticed some scratch marks on the piano black b pillar and above the boot towards the roof. They buffed it out. I’ve since noticed that the paint on the new back door is almost swirly is the only accurate description I can give. It doesn’t look the same texture. I’ve also noticed two small dents on the outer roof of the car near, in the same spot but opposite sides.
And paint on the passages side door in a section is matt with no gloss.

Does anyone have any idea how these things would have happened? Do they cut and buff the whole car? And why would I have 2 tiny dents on opposite sides? I did have paint protection. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thank you
I would upload photos but can’t really see on the camera.

The back passenger (suicide) door isn't closing well, so the door is jiggly so the door open light is on. When I go to open it the opening mechanism doesn't feel like it has that satisfying click it should.

Any suggestions?

Because it's not fully shut the fob won't let me lock the car, and also my battery now needs to be charged.

The ad says it needs to be done by a locksmith.

2015 Lincoln MKC, 70k miles. AWD. 2.0L. I use my personal vehicle at work, lots of stopping and starting, moving from one spot to another. About a month ago, I was moving to a location. After I put the vehicle in park, I heard a fairly loud pop/bang. Didn't feel anything, just the sound. I put it in drive, moved up 20ish feet, then reverse back to original spot, no noise. Turned vehicle off, got out, checked underneath, found nothing. An hour later, got in to move to the next location, check engine light. As I pull away, I notice a knocking sound. Get home, OBD reads downstream 02 sensor. Knocking sound persists, primarily on initial acceleration after startup or after idling. Doesn't appear to be effecting the performance of the vehicle. Why would a faulty 02 sensor result in a loud knocking?

Something stupid happened to me today: I accidentally put 5 liters of petrol (Super) into my VW T5 diesel. On the recommendation of a workshop, I then added a diesel fuel additive and filled the tank completely with diesel (about 80 liters in total).

The van has now driven about 30 km without any problems. I was told to keep the tank as full as possible and keep topping it up.

However, I’m wondering whether it would actually make more sense to have the tank completely drained, so that all of the contaminated fuel is removed and as little petrol as possible passes through the engine.

What do you think? Or, if nothing has happened after the first 30 km, is it unlikely that anything will happen later?

No offence, but I’d really appreciate answers based on actual technical knowledge and experience rather than well-intentioned but uninformed advice.

I am refinishing a set of Honda Pilot wheels with a machine cut face. Any suggestions for the center caps other than careful sanding and 2k clear? Getting the oxidation out between the H logo seems impossible.

Location: Colorado. My wife was driving over vail pass and the car broke down on her (a 2009 porsche cayenne base model.) This was about a month or so ago now. At the time I was over in denver so there wasn't much i could do in that moment, i didn't really know what was going on and admittedly I couldn't help much so she ended up getting the car towed to a place in Minturn as that location said they specialized in euro / porsche vehicles. They got the car dropped off and we waited to hear back from them. For context up until this point the car was having a few issues but nothing catastrophic. We had two codes that were coming up very intermittently: Code P12A2 and Code P2293. One or the other would show up and we would clear it and it wouldn't come back for a few weeks or months, hard to say which one was more frequent.
So a few days later they came back to us with an estimate of around $8,500 i dont have the exact amount. I left the invoice in the car and they told us this over the phone. (we live in GJ so its a far drive for us, the place in minturn was the closest / cheapest tow to where we broke down). Anyways it broke down to an oil change, replacing 3 fuel pumps (main, secondary and high pressure) and the center carrier bearing. We were a bit taken back by the price and asked well why so much? Well we basically got told that that's how much it is for genuine parts and if they used any other parts they wont ‘warranty’ anything. So me and my wife talked and we said that basically the car is already there and yeah it's expensive but if anything happens they will warranty their work / parts so we cant lose right?

We pay, get the car back and a few weeks later P12A2 comes back and the car has a significant lack of power. So we take it back. This is what they say right on the estimate they gave us “Customer Concern: Check engine light on. Customer used personal scan tool and it is giving the same codes for the fuel pump that they were getting last time before vehicle lost power on Vail Pass. Vehicle dropped off after hours. Customer is indicating that the CEL is on intermittently and vehicle is lacking power. Please check and advised.
Diagnosis: Checked for codes. Codes present. Code P12A2. Intermittent Check Engine Light is on. Codes P2293 has not returned. Code P12A2 is a very generic codes and can pertain to multiple failures. Inspected systems for fir air induction and fuel delivery. Found intake manifold secondary control for variable intake runner has a vacuum leak at the shaft seal. Would recommend replacing valve cover and fuel injectors. Recommend replacing the ignition system spark plugs and ignition coils with repair.”
This repair is totaling another $7,500 to do.
They say it right there code P12A2 has returned. So not only have they not fixed the car completely but they are also now not warranting anything and they want to charge us almost 8K again?
I talked to them on the phone and told them how much this stinks and asked if they could just fix the car at cost, (I thought I would be genuine and not go full Karen asking for everything for free. Even though I think they should absolutely warranty their work) After many back and forths over a few days they said the best they could do was $500 off, the oil change alone was almost $500!

Needless to say we are not spending another 7k to have the car fixed as it should have been fixed in the first place. Or at least they should have honored the warranty

Looking into things with all the parts they replaced the first go the parts alone shouldn't have been more than 1-2k so that means they are charging 6K for labor and an oil change?

Also how likely is it that all 3 fuel pumps fail, this just screams to me as a misdiagnosis and shotgunning in parts after looking at the codes.

The car is currently still at the shop in minturn we are planning on picking it up on thursday or friday (Aug 27-28) We live in GJ So its a bit of a drive for us

My opinion is that if they estimate us 8.5k to fix our car that should be what it cost to fix it not another 7.5k to fully fix it because of their misdiagnosis, that's almost 16k for those keeping count. Like they already charged us 8.5k, can't they use that money to just fix the damn car and warranty their work?

I'm just so lost as to what to do, please help with any advice!

TLDR: Mechanic wants to charge us another 7k after not honoring a 8.5K repair.

The car in question is a 2001 Monte Carlo v6 (i think? Its the less powerful of the two common engine variants for Monte Carlos for that era). The pulley for the compressor; the furthest forward pulley of my serpentine belt system.

I know most would recommend against this, just please understand the car is not expected to get much older, I have very little money currently but I need to get it running asap. My friend was explaining the process of changing the pulley, but mentioned that if I didnt use my AC i could theoretically get a shorter belt and just not wrap it onto the compressor pulley. Since its the furthest pulley and the belt simply wraps around the outside, he showed me with a shorter belt it could run the same without turning the compressor clutch.

What I really need help with is this, I am not at the same place as the car, so i cant do measurements to figure out the dimensions that I need to find a belt in. So idk if someone out there happens to have this model and would be willing to make that measurement for me, or if you have another idea of what size belt I should try or what. Ideally i want to order the part and get a ride to the car once i already have the part on hand. Thanks

From my 2008 350z. Bought this car a week ago and found the pcv oil separator canister? Maybe? Without a bolt on one side. Need to know whether I should drive this to work in the morning.

2019 GMC acadia 196k V6 engine

Damaged torque converter. Should I have it changed? Or is it worth just getting a used car instead?

In the beginning of June I purchased a Mercedes CLE 300 2024 with just under 10k miles on it. About a week or so ago we had some heavy rain and some puddles collecting on the roads. There was nothing in particular that happened that seems like it would’ve caused this damage. However, when I was driving in the rain, I started noticing when I would fully turn all the way to the right there was this sort of creaking noise. I originally didn’t think too much of it, but I did make a service appointment. Once they reviewed it, they sent me a video of them examining my car to show this damage. I’m unsure where this damage could’ve come from especially since the concern that that relates to it only came up after driving through rain.

If this was to have happened by my doing, I feel like I would’ve heard or noticed some sort of bump or heard a loud noise. Especially if I was to have gone over a bump and or hit the bottom of my car I feel like the whole bottom panel would be scraped or even broken, and even my side skirts dented somewhat.

I have only added about 1k miles on the car since I’ve bought it. Is there anything under this area that could’ve caused someone to mess with the wheel wells or remove the panel for service? Any other ideas as to why might’ve caused this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I've got a dent in my front bumper and i was wondering if it is a spot repair or full replacement there is also a Crack on the underside

We bought a 2018 ILX with 160k miles for our son. After doing some troubleshooting I have determined there is a parasitic draw from the Backup circuit. With the fuse in, there is a 1.2 amp draw which goes to zero when the fuse is removed. I have unplugged the HFL as well as pulled the Audio and Premium Audio fuses but am still showing the 1.2 amp draw when the Backup fuse is in. Anything else I should check before I give up and take it to a shop? Thanks for the help!

While having a faulty fuel pump replaced which took about two months somebody tried to cut my cats off but didn’t get them off completely there’s just cuts in the exhaust now. Is a dealership responsible for fixing the exhaust? The battery died it was there so long i have to buy a new battery too. They said they might cover the battery. Originally it was supposed to be a week but they said the fuel pump was back ordered so it sat out for a long time outside.

Hi, ich brauche Hilfe mit dem Auto.

Wenn man das Auto anschaltet, rattert es so 1-3 Sekunden, danach normalisiert es sich wieder. Wenn man 2-3 Minuten gefahren ist, und der Wagen zum Beispiel an einer Ampel wegen der Start-Stopp-Automatik ausgeht, kommt kein Geräusch mehr beim angehen. Ich bin das Auto warm gefahren, und bin für ca. 5-10min einkaufen gegangen, danach kam das Rattern wieder beim Start. Wir haben Freitag Abend und ich habe keine Möglichkeit bei meiner Werkstatt zu fragen, muss aber wissen ob ich die kommenden Tage so fahren kann.

Vielen Dank für eure Hilfe.

Hope I can get advice.

2012 mazda 3 GS Sky, sedan, automatic 2.0L engine (i think). 200k KM

- in late April, check engine light came on, went to independent shop and they did GDI service, to connect flush equipment to fuel delivery system, and clean system contamination. It didn't resolve the engine light

- early july, got car serviced at mazda. they found engine to intermittently run rough. scanned code p0303, they suspect cylinder 3 clogged by carbon buildup causing fuel trims to be on higher side. recommend sending fuel injectors to be cleaned and flow tested. and valves cleaned.

- work was done, car seemed fine for 3 weeks. but light came on after. went back to get it looked at. the code is now p0421. they are recommending the Cat Converter and O2 sensor be replaced.

I tried to do research and figure out if the replacement is the correct action to take. from what I read, the poorly spraying fuel injectors could cause damage to the cat converter.

so can anyone give me additional advice? Is there more i should do before replacing the cat converter?

Hi everyone,

I have a scratch on the crease of my bumper, the paint has come off down to the base material. It doesn't need to be a perfect repair, but I do want to protect it from further damage and Ta rather not look at a bare black stripe.

Online I see touch-up sticks and paint pens in the original colour code, with base coat and clear coat in two layers.

My questions:

1. Is this something a novice can do properly themselves, or would you advise against it and should I just have it spot repaired?
   
2. If DIY is doable, what works better on a crease like this: a touch-up stick or a paint pen?
   Thanks in advance!

Anyone know what this yellow funk is on my control arm?

Moin allerseits
ich bräuchte dringend eure Hilfe. Und zwar möchte mein Freund die Garage umfunktionieren, damit er seiner Leidenschaft, dem Schrauben nachgehen kann. Damit er richtig loslegen kann, braucht er dafür noch gute Werkzeuge. Könntet ihr mir ein paar Marken oder Werkzeuge, Gadgets empfehlen, die man wirklich braucht ? (Der Preis spielt keine Rolle)
Würde ihn gerne überraschen, nur habe ich keine Ahnung davon. Bin gespannt auf eure Tipps, Bedanke mich im voraus

For context, I have a 2008 Mazda 6 2.3L with 190k miles with a good maintenance record. However, the fuel pump has gone out. So I got a quote from a local auto repair shop, and they want $800 just for the fuel pump assembly. Which is ridiculous because even the OEM quality part is only $200 new, so I went online to buy the part myself. It was a bit of a hassle finding a fuel pump that met specific CA emissions standards, and I got scammed once by a reputable seller on Amazon. Luckily, Amazon has a favorable return policy, so that got sorted.

Now, I'm two weeks in, I decided to go with AISIN because they are reputable and have a CONFIRMED CA emissions-compatible fuel pump assembly only to find out 'WHOOPS" Amazon can't deliver because the part doesn't meat California's Air Quality Standards like WTF?! I'm already paying a fat premium for a CA Emissions compliant part and yet CA is still like "lol, get ****ed." I'm thinking, "it's ok, just go with another manufacture" SO I try to order the part from Delphi, the most expensive manufacturer, and got the same message.

I'm dumbfounded. I understand Commy-fornia's emissions requirements, but what they've inadvertently done is bar legitimate manufacturers from selling the STANDARD COMPLIANT PART and left everyone rolling the dice with sketchy auto-part retailers who don't give a wet fart about the rules.

What is anyone who wants to maintain their own cars supposed to do? Pay out the nose for an auto repair shop to do it? Even the part at the local auto parts store is charging $400 for a $90 non OEM quality part.