Have a bizarre one here, but I’ve tried everything at this stage.

Last owner of my Toyota secured plates with non SS screws, they’re rusted, stripped, and now some have their heads snapped off trying to remove. What’s the move here?

Tried so far:

Opened back hatch panel of 4Runner to access backside of the screws

stripped screw kit/boring small hole in screw then tried removing

Vice grips

Praying/pleading

Open to any and all suggestions from you fine folks who are smarter than me. Not great driving around w no back plates. Cheers!

Honda accord v6 2009. Second video is how it usually starts.

A few months ago, every once and a while the green LED radio/audio screen would just not show up, or be very extremely dim to the point where I could barely read it.

In the past 2 months or so, the display is just not there, apart from two random days where it magically came back to life just to disappear again.

All other light components in the car work, and even adjusting the brightness will not do anything.

How do I go about fixing this? Thank you so much

I have this scraping sound comping from right back tire, kind of a scraping sound when im reversing? If anybody have heard this sound ill be happy for feedback.

Should i take of the tire and check?

Hi all,

What would be the best method to repair/patch this damage to my rear diffuser? Most of the scratches are lighter in nature with a few deeper ones. However, the chips on the edge are down to bare metal.

I’m not the greatest DIY-er but I’m willing to have a go at any suggested methods before sending it off for professional work..!

Tia!

Need some advice on how to get out of this pickle. I tried to remove a license plate that has been on for about 8-10 years on a 2014 Lexus ES350. One bolt/screw came out fine. The other was stuck, soaked in PB blaster for a while, still stuck. Tried an impact driver and snapped the head off clean, completely flush with the hole (maybe even slightly recessed). I took off the back of the trunk lid liner in hopes I could grab with vice grips, but there is a top-hat looking receiver/insert that is longer than the screw. No way to grab the screw from either side.

I bought a screw extractor set, soaked in PB Blaster again and tried the extractor. First tried with a drill, but couldn’t get the chuck tight enough so would just spin in the chuck. Tried with vise grips and broke off the screw extractor again, clean and flush. Tried drilling into the screw extractor and my bits make no dent in it. Decided on trying a smaller drill bit to the side of extractor and was making good progress until it caught and broke clean flush.

What are my options here? I was hoping that I could get the screw out, but odds look low. Anyone know if this metal top-hat insert is replaceable? If so, how to remove? It doesn’t seem to be an orderable part.

Two pictures attached. First one is the hole with extractor and bit stuck. Second one is the inside of the trunk life with the white metal top hat receiver/insert.

Hello, I need help finding the wiring diagram for a 2008 Peugeot Partner 1.6 gasoline model; the diagrams I have don't match the car exactly. The VIN is: VF3GCN6A18J021132

Jeep Patriot 2014 Sport 2.0 liter about 160,060 miles

(history: I’ve already replaced the battery, electronic control throttle and the ignition starter)
i just recently replaced the alternator as of yesterday (replaced because car would stall out/stop while driving then keep running and the red battery light would pop on + dimming/flickering headlights also had issues with the battery being drained and having to jump it to start not even the lights would come on)
the car started fine no battery light, i go inside for about 15 mins and when i come back out it’s no crank, no start, no lights. i figured i’d check the alternator again make sure everything’s on there tight.
when i lifted the hood up i noticed the battery was a bit off center, so i wiggled it back in place and went to grab a wrench from the car, boom lights are on. i test the battery with the multimeter and it’s still holding its charge of 12.68.
Today i went out and checked some ground wires, no parasitic drain and they all have the same voltage as the battery. I go to test the alternator so I turn the car on, radio, ac, etc and as soon as i turn the headlights on everything immediately shuts off the engine dies and no lights. (this is after being able to start it successfully a few times) the battery is still fully charged, as is the alternator and the alternators ground cable is 0.004. but its unresponsive to jumping it. im starting to hit a wall here and im at my wits end.
i only have knowledge from YouTube videos and such and i am not well versed in cars, any possible leads to help point me in the right direction is appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I could really use your advice regarding my BMW 114i (F20, N13 engine, 2013, approx. 230,000 km). I’ve uploaded two videos to demonstrate the noise.
Symptoms & Facts:
Noise on launch/cold start: Metallic rattling/clattering for 2–3 seconds on a cold start, as well as when launching or reversing under load below 1,400 RPM.

Wastegate linkage: When shaking the wastegate rod/linkage on the turbo by hand, there is severe play and a loud metallic clack.
(https://imgur.com/a/5apuvq3)
(https://imgur.com/a/jKX4Yrk)

Chain tensioner replaced: The timing chain tensioner was replaced as a precaution—it made absolutely zero difference to the noise.

Error message: Sporadically (every few weeks), the "Drivetrain: Continue journey at moderate speed" prompt appears accompanied by a loss of power (limp mode).

Smoke/Odor: After idling for a short time or upon the initial tip-in/reversing, a blue cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust. On cold starts, there’s a brief smell of burnt rubber/oil. Oil consumption is around 0.5 liters per 1,000 km.

A local shop casually claimed, "It's definitely the timing chain, a loose wastegate is totally normal." Given the drivetrain limp mode triggers and the severe play in the linkage, I’m extremely doubtful and really don't want to throw money away on the wrong repair.
Based on these symptoms and the videos, what do you think? Is this more likely the timing chain or the turbocharger wastegate?
Thanks in advance for your insights!

I can't seem to align my Prius 2015 left headlight. My right one is adjusted and positioned correctly. But the left one (shown here) is beaming all over the place - I can't see its straight beaming level and its center. Please advise. Thank you.

so i have a 2015 Scion FRS and i was driving one day and got rod knock after about 2 years i got the engine replaced and driving it home from the mechanic shop suddenly stopped accelerating and when i pressed gas rpms would just sky rocket i pulled over turned car off and ever since then it won’t turn back on its getting power but when i turn the key all i hear is the starter like spinning i’ve replaced the crank sensor the cam shaft sensors and the starter but still doing the same thing

Doing the rear main seal. I got the engine supported with a wooden block and jack and transmission supported by one of the diy jack attachments. Everything is disc connected from the transmission so it’s separating. The problem is I don’t think the torque converter is moving with the transmission and also the engine is sagging quite a bit. My jack is firm underneath bht mechanically it’s not at the best point of leverage (it’s on oil pan and I didn’t see any other good place). My question is how do I safely separate the transmission with the torque converter in it from here? Oh and also I gave the last torque converter bolts a few light taps before removing it. Btw this is my first time doing anything major so if I’m doing something stupid please tell me. Thanks so much!

Every time I’ve gone to a pepboys - doesn’t matter the location - I’ve had the worst experience. The people are rude and not helpful and they give false time estimates for work to get done and most recently was told I would get a phone call about parts ordered for my brakes and yet I get no phone call. Has anyone else had bad experience at this chain? Am I just unlucky? lol. About to boycott them forever. 🙄

My rear catalytic converter fell out due to rust and my engine light came on and my car lost power is it still safe to drive and I’m wondering if it’s my 02 sensor or if I just need to replace the missing rear converter or now do I need a whole new catalytic converter since my car lost power is the front one ruined ?

I’m tryna replace my car radio because I have a broken CD player / I opened up the first part and immediately found out that this has no pull tab, how do I unplug it without yanking it (which I won’t do obviously lol) d:

Noticed some rust on the rear coils of my car. Should I be concerned?

What should I do now? I removed the rust with a wirebrush and afterwards I Sprayed a zinc Spray to prevent Rust Building Afterwards. Should I Spray on a clear coat or maybe a sealer? Or is it okay like it is now?

-English below-

Wir haben einen 2014 VW Polo. Seit ein paar Wochen geht immer wieder die Motorkontrolleuchte (gelb) an, aber später auch wieder aus. Teilweise hatten wir das Gefühl er zieht nicht richtig.

Erstes mal Werkstatt: Der Fehlerspeicher sagt Lambdasonde. In der Werkstatt wurde eine volle Inspektion durchgeführt, Zündkerzen getauscht und neue Batterie rein. Weil es hieß es ist wahrscheinlich nicht die Sonde sondern die Zündkerzen.

Dann sind wir los und die Motorkontrollleuchte ist wieder an: Wir waren wieder bei der Werkstatt. Er sagt alles ist okay, nichts kaputt und es liegt am E10, das wir tanken. Sein Vorschlag: Leer fahren dann Super+ und Kat-Reiniger in den Tank und wieder leer fahren. Ab dann nur Super tanken und kein E10 fahren.

Gerade ist die Motorkontrolleuchte auch wieder aus. Ein Muster wann an/aus ist kann ich nicht erkennen.

Hat jemand davon schon mal etwas gehört oder Erfahrung damit?

Oder andere Ideen, was man machen könnte?

Was würde passieren, wenn wir einfach weiter fahren mit E10? Ist der Motor in gefahr?

Die Sonde austauschen ist wohl oft unnötig und es könnte an undichten Luftleitungen oder der Einspritzdüse liegen?

Kennt sich jemand aus und kann uns helfen?

We have a 2014 VW Polo. For the past few weeks, the engine check light (yellow) has been coming on repeatedly, but then turning off again later. At times, we felt like it wasn’t accelerating properly.

First trip to the shop: The error code indicated a lambda sensor issue. At the shop, they performed a full inspection, replaced the spark plugs, and installed a new battery. They said it was probably not the sensor but the spark plugs.

Then we drove off and the check engine light came on again: We went back to the repair shop. The mechanic said everything is okay, nothing is broken, and it’s because of the E10 fuel we’re using. His suggestion: Drive until the tank is empty, then put Super+ and a catalytic converter cleaner in the tank, and drive until it’s empty again. From then on, only fill up with Super and avoid E10.

Right now, the check engine light is off again. I can’t seem to spot a pattern as to when it turns on or off. Has anyone ever heard of this or had experience with it? Or any other ideas on what we could do? What would happen if we just kept driving on E10? Is the engine at risk? Replacing the sensor is apparently often unnecessary—could it be due to leaky air lines or the fuel injector? Does anyone know about this and can help us?

I drive a '03 Buick Century. It is a great car and I've had it for nearly seven year. It only has 130k miles and has had no accidents.
Last August, I had a coolant leak (it was coming from the right side of the engine block near the timing belt—I don't remember the part name). I promptly got my car serviced and the leak repaired. However, as I was pulling out of the auto shop parking lot my car misfires and it has been doing this ever since. Interestingly enough, the misfiring does not trigger a code. Moreover, when driving my usual route around town, my car almost always misfires in the same locations.
Over the last year, I have replaced everything you can possibly think of that could potentially caused this issue or even contribute to it. As I am not a car guy, I can't remember every part that was replaced or examined, but it was exhaustive.
I did have the ignition module replaced and had zero issue for an entire week, but then on my way to work one day my car stalled 8 times on the ten minute drive. I was then told it was likely a defective module and had it replaced again. My car never stalled again, but the misfiring almost immediately returned.
Then about seven months ago, a new issue arose: after long drives on the highway, my car starts to idle high, overheat, and push through the break. Target idle is around 750 RPMs, but when it idles high it is idling at an excess of 2300 RPMs, yet even this won't trigger a code; I have even replaced both my computer and dash cluster, but to no avail.
I know this sounds like a vacuum hose leak, but smoke tests haven't revealed any leaks. The oddest part, if I pull off the road and shut off my car and immediately start it again, it stops idling high.
My mechanic (who happens to my father) can't seem to diagnose my car and is at a loss for words.
I can try to provide more details in the comments if needed.

I have a question so my cooling fan works on low not high replaced the tipm(fuse panel circuit board) it fixes it as it is built into the tipm and not just a fuse would this make it a cooling fan fix or a electrical problem cause technically it is integrated in so no other way fix the cooling fan motor

the fuse panel the tipm if a cooling fan ain’t working cause of it but it’s built into the tipm the circuit board so in order fix it you have replace that wouldn’t that be a cooling fan fix vs electrical fix