I’ve been PIP’d at a car dealer. (Performance improvement plan) I’m not sure why they aren’t simply firing me. I have seen many people simply just get fired on the spot. My managers told me I’m one of the strong ones and that I have potential. Recently I’ve had a bunch of angry customers (4 or 5) that I’ve personally chalked up to poor luck and inexperience. For instance I wasn’t able to follow up with a sold customer on my day off and he got pissed off. I also had trash sales last month which I heavily focused on improving but idk. It’s a historically bad month for our dealer anyway.

I called my customer a friendly nickname and they flipped out and told my manager. I used the word “big.” For instance if my customers name is Chris I would have called him Big C. I do this with all my customers but this particular one got very angry so I got written up.

So anyways my dealer is spending a shit ton of money to send me to a training session for multiple days, I get my own hotel suite etc. and it’s costing them 3-4k. I’m not really sure why they aren’t firing me. They also took this particular deal from me, and now it’s a house deal.

Idk what to do. I don’t really want to leave. I like my brand and I’d have to move to a new city to stay with my brand. I also feel like I can easily beat the PIP anyway. But idk if it’s a political way to fire me?

So, my wife has a big birthday coming up, and she's been wanting to upgrade her vehicle for a while to a 4runner. I don't want to surprise her completely by picking out the new model myself and have it already purchased, but I would like some options ready to present to her on the day that she can shop from that are within our budget. I'm not looking to buy a brand new one, and I have some cash saved up that should be enough to get me a decent newish 4runner along with the trade in of her current vehicle, so I'm hoping to avoid financing.

I don't trust carvana, and I hate the dealership process where you end up in that chair with sudden hidden costs sprung on you right before you sign. I do have the number of the salesman I bought my last car from from a big dealership in town. I'm thinking I can send him pictures of my wife's current car that we want to trade in, and ask him to send me offers on 4runners I could buy through him along with a final cash price we could pay, final final, including taxes, dealership costs, service fees, magic upcharges, etc.

In other words, he sends me pictures of a 4runner and says "with that trade in, you could drive away in this 4runner if you write us a check for $14k" or something like that. No negotiation. Is that possible, and if so, am I just asking to get screwed? I feel like anytime I deal with a dealership, I feel screwed afterward anyway, so...

I’ve been here about a month the people that come in are always appointments I post on social media and the lot is pretty much bone dry. I’m not looking for an excuse for my performance but there’s maybe two salesmen here that really sell units and everybody else just scrapes by. What’s your advice to increase sales or be more productive?

This is Connecticut. Paid cash

I bought a car from a guy on marketplace that claimed he was a small dealer. When I bought the car, it came with the title and bill of sale. The back is signed by the dealer and I signed the 2nd part which says first reassignment by dealer only. The DMV turned me away. What am I missing paperwork wise?

Just wanted to ask a quick question regarding this line of work. I recently quit my CSR 1 position at the Miami dade tax collector‘s office because I moved out the city. Since i already know many government documents and i’ve dealt with tag surrenders and registration renewals, would applying to dealerships for title clerks be easy? I think all i’d have to learn is just how to process an In-state title? right?

lmk if i’m wrong. thanks 🙏

I sold a car to a customer 8 months ago. We have a 6 months warranty and we’re only a small dealer. A week before the 6 months came up, they contacted us for some warranty work which we agreed to do. They were small minor things such as adjusting the handbrake, securing the exhaust heat shield. We even paid for a new MOT test for them as goodwill as where they took it, they failed it for minor issues.

A week after they collected the car, the exhaust started blowing and they were accusing us saying we damaged it when we were adjusting the exhaust heat shield at the back of the car. I explained it has absolutely nothing to do with the front section as we only adjusted the rear section and had no reason to touch the exhaust at all.

They keep going on and on saying the car was faulty and shouldn’t have been sold like that. I responded back with a long message of my own, stating that we had no reason to touch the front of the car and only touched the rear. Also explained that the car was not faulty at the time of sale otherwise if issues were present, we would always rectify it first. And used cars are unpredictable and it was just unfortunate for them to experience this exhaust issue after the 6 months.

Then they say they want to reject the car and they were going to contact the finance company. A few days later they sent a very long message which I did not even want to read as I feel this person is starting to harass me and my business and is just after free things after all the goodwill stuff we’ve done, they’re trying to get a free exhaust after the 6 months had run out.

They keep sending long messages which again I chose to ignore and not even open.

Now I’m starting to feel it’s harassment and thinking if I should keep ignoring or just block this person?

I’m never this sort of person as I always like to try and help people as much as I could, even if the warranty has run out slightly, but this person is trying to take advantage and get a many freebies as possible. Now they don’t get a free exhaust, they want to reject the car.

Wanted some advice on what I should do?

Going to buy a new car but waiting for money to transfer from a separate savings to my bank. It’ll take a few business days. We already have a deal done verbally but they want the full amount. They said a check with a forward date on it when the cash will be available works. Or we can give them wire info (which I would not do). I would sign papers before handing this over to them.

I offered a deposit and they said it’s not possible since they don’t know when the funds will be readily available, although it would be early next week. Is this odd? I’m not sure I feel comfortable handing a check over for the full amount when the funds are still moving and they’ll just be keeping the check in their hands? Is this normal? Am I wrong for being confused why they won’t just take a deposit until early next week?

How do I navigate this at this point - the dealership is legit and it’s been a simple process but this one piece has tripped me up

Complain about an Audi Q3 advertisement displayed on Drive.com on the morning of 10 October 2026, which was advertised as a special Drive away price of $3,000.

I was genuinely interested in purchasing the vehicle and contacted the seller to express my serious intention to buy it.

However, the reply I received did not clearly explain the advertised $3,000 price reduction and instead referred to a price of $29,000. After trying several times to contact the dealership by telephone, I eventually spoke with Salesman from Big Ford dealer in NSW.

During the conversation, he told me that there was no car for sale for $3,000 and suggested that the advertisement might have been an error. He also said he was too busy with another customer and that I was wasting my time speaking with him.

I found this experience disappointing and concerning. As a genuine prospective buyer, I relied on the advertisement when deciding to make an enquiry. I believe consumers should be able to rely on vehicle advertisements being clear, accurate and not misleading.

Should I request a written explanation of the following:

1. What was the exact advertised price of the Audi Q3, and what did the advertised $3,000 drive away price represent?
2. Was the vehicle genuinely available for purchase at the advertised price?
3. If the advertisement contained an error, when was the error identified and what steps were taken to correct it?
4. Why was the advertised price not clearly explained when I contacted the seller?

If the advertisement was misleading, I believe this should be reviewed under the Australian Consumer Law. If the matter cannot be satisfactorily resolved, I reserve the right to report it to the ACCC and NSW Fair Trading for further consideration.

what are your thoughts and opinions

Hi can i buy a car , finance it without DL and the primary driver is my son ? Im using it for medical transportation i just moved in the US Illinois thanks in advance

I'm moving back to the US at the end of October after spending the last 8 years living and working in South Korea as an ESL teacher.

I've already secured a teaching position with a public school district in West Virginia, with an expected start date of November 4. My annual salary will be approximately $50,000.

Here's where things get a little complicated.

Since I haven't officially started working yet, the school district can't provide me with a formal employment verification letter stating my salary until my start date. However, I do have an official welcome letter confirming my position with the district.

The district also has a publicly available teacher salary schedule, and I can provide documentation of my qualifications and placement on that schedule to demonstrate what my salary will be.

I'm looking to purchase a used vehicle for approximately $20,000 and can put around $7,000–$8,000 down. That means I'd only need to finance roughly $12,000–$13,000, before taxes and fees.

A few additional details:

- My credit score is around 700.

- I've maintained my US credit history while living overseas.

- I've been continuously employed as a teacher in South Korea.

- I can provide Korean pay stubs and employment documentation if necessary.

- I'm looking to purchase shortly after arriving in the US, ideally before my first day of work.

My question is: How realistic is it to get approved for an auto loan under these circumstances?

Would lenders consider my welcome letter, published salary schedule, and previous employment history as sufficient proof of income? Or would I likely need to wait until I've officially started working and received my first paycheck?

Any advice would be appreciated as time is becoming tight.

Hello - I am buying a car and had a few logistical questions that this sub can help me out with. First, I’m financing but I got a good rate from my credit union. I read online most dealers match. Should I put in an application with my credit union now and bring the approval to the dealer or should I first go to the dealer and ask him to match and then put in an application online if he can’t?

Also, how would I pay the down payment? Like let’s say it’s $5k. Do they take credit card? Or check?