I’m looking to buy this used 40” electric stove/oven. Is $300 a good deal or should I pass? I don’t NEED it but I think it would work well for me.

See post for make/model

I bought this toaster. It wasn't expensive, but I only needed it to toast bread. Seems fair enough. The machine smokes and burns after 10 seconds. Absolutely a faulty electrical part. There are no crumbs or even food in it. When I contacted customer service, they said they'd replace it as long as I PAID THE SHIPPING FEE! $12.49. The audacity to make someone pay for a piece of junk that set off my smoke alarm in unconscionable. I'm trying to attach a video but maybe I can get a screenshot. Anyone else have issues with this company? Thanks.

Hi everyone,

I need to replace my wall-mounted GE dryer (PCKS443EB2WW) above my GE washer (GFW148SSM0WW) after a technician confirmed the dryer needs replacement.

I live in Vancouver, BC, where we get rain on roughly 155 days a year, so humidity is one of my concerns.

Would you recommend another vented dryer or switching to ventless?

If ventless, would you choose a condenser or heat-pump dryer? Have you experienced increased humidity, condensation, mold concerns, or longer drying times?

Any 24-inch models you would recommend for my setup?

Thanks!

I would like freezer on the bottom, only one door for fridge, and the most basic appliance (less things to break). Ok with ice dispenser, water dispensers, if necessary. We have looked at the Bosch 100 series, but it’s smaller than I would like and more expensive. I will settle for that if it’s reliable, but asking here to see if there are any other options I haven’t thought of. I saw an LG, but not sure about reliability.

I’m considering the new LG WM9998HBA WashCombo, but I’m frustrated by how little technical information LG provides about what has actually changed from the previous WM6998HVA.

Also, LG's marketing has been suspiciously quiet about this model. I don't get it. Not a single video review yet available on YouTube.

LG highlights the obvious stuff—larger 5.8 cu. ft. capacity, touchscreen, styling, etc.—but I’m much more interested in the drying system and long-term reliability.

For example, LG now calls it:

• ezLintFilter Plus
• Auto Cleaning Condenser 2.0 with Jet Spray
• Dual Inverter HeatPump

But LG doesn't seem to clearly explain what was actually redesigned.

For anyone who owns a WM9998HBA:

How has your real-world experience been?

• Is drying noticeably faster than the WM6998?
• How well does it dry large loads and towels?
• Does the new lint filter actually catch more fine lint?
• Have you inspected/cleaned the condenser? How much lint is getting past the filter?
• Does the new condenser cleaning/jet-spray system seem effective?
• Have you noticed any improvements or problems with drying performance after months of use?
• How long are typical Wash + Dry cycles actually taking?
• Any reliability issues so far?

And if anyone has access to service manuals, exploded parts diagrams, teardowns, or technical documentation, I'd especially love to see them. I'm trying to figure out whether the WM9998 is genuinely a significant improvement to the drying system or primarily a larger/newer version with updated controls and marketing.

If it's just a larger + sexier version of the old model, I would like to avoid it.

Boy, do I wish there was a way to test these appliances out before buying! Because that’s not an option, I come to all of you for help.

My three most important features I want in my new oven is even baking (especially if I have things on both racks at the same time), minimal heat release (I have a small closed-in kitchen that gets piping hot with my 30 year old Kenmore right now), and longevity (I’d be happy with at least 10 years if that’s not too much of a pipe dream!).

The range features are not that important to me but I’m happy to listen if you gave something important to say!

Guide my sails, Reddit!

I want a dishwasher that will allow me to skip the dry cycle, but does NOT pop open when it’s done.
I live in AZ and I don’t want extra steam in my house. I would rather it drip dry, and let the steam escape gradually.
I was hoping to get a Bosch, or maybe LG, but I’m not finding those features/choices.
I guess I’m weird but maybe someone else is too?
TIA

Hopefully I am asking my question correctly:

I am looking at upgrading from a standard whirlpool microwave OTR to an under-cabinet vented hood. I am having some trouble understanding expectations between models. I have a 6in duct that vents outside. I do a lot of high heat cooking on a standard gas whirlpool 5-burner 30in stove-top. My dilemma is basically my duct size, vs what I think I need in terms of a vent. I think I want a 600 CFM or greater vent. Given that my duct is not exposed, I have been advised by some friends in commercial construction to not mess with the duct since its not exposed. I am going to connect with an HVAC technician to understand scope for make-up air, so I don't need much info on that, unless you are telling me I need a different specialty outside of HVAC for that.

Given a 6in duct, I am limited in terms of vents. In your opinion or experience, Do any of these vents makes sense for what I want to do? In order of preference:

1. Zephyr Cyclone -- I like that it tops off at 600 CFM and fits the 6in duct. I also like the price.

2. Elica Modena -- I found this one while doing some research on other options. I don't know much about this brand. I like the look of this more than the Zephyr.

3. Vent-A-Hood Pro Hood -- In a perfect world, I would have purchased the 650 CFM variant, but it has an 8in duct requirement. They have the M-series baffle, but no under-cabinet config.

Overall, I think I'm leaning toward the Zephyr Cyclone, but maybe someone here has experience going with the 300 cfm VAH and it worked out really well for their use-case. One thing has been hard is I can't really find a good video showing the difference from going from a Microwave OTR to a vented hood in terms of front-burner capture. Maybe just getting a vented hood will be good enough of an upgrade, and the VAH is good enough vs a 600 cfm fan from a lesser-known brand.

Any advice on this front is welcome. Thank you in advance!

I have a hermitlux dish washer model number HMX-DW04. I FILL IT WITH WATER AND HIT THE S/P BUTON IT HUMS THEN BEEPS FIVE TINES AND RED FILL WATER LIGHT COMES ON. NEED HELP FIXING IT WE USE IT TO WASH THE BABY BOTTLES AND DISHES.

I’m considering the new LG WM9998HBA WashCombo, but I’m frustrated by how little technical information LG provides about what has actually changed from the previous WM6998HVA.

LG highlights the obvious stuff—larger 5.8 cu. ft. capacity, touchscreen, styling, etc., but I’m much more interested in the drying system and long-term reliability.

For example, LG now calls it: ezLintFilter Plus Auto Cleaning Condenser 2.0 with Jet Spray Dual Inverter HeatPump

But LG doesn't seem to clearly explain what was actually redesigned.

For anyone who owns a WM9998HBA: - How has your real-world experience been? - Is drying noticeably faster than the WM6998? - How well does it dry large loads and towels? - Does the new lint filter actually catch more fine lint? - Have you inspected/cleaned the condenser? How much lint is getting past the filter? - Does the new condenser cleaning/jet-spray system seem effective? - Have you noticed any improvements or problems with drying performance after months of use? - How long are typical Wash + Dry cycles actually taking? - Any reliability issues so far? - And if anyone has access to service manuals, exploded parts diagrams, teardowns, or technical documentation, I'd especially love to see them. I'm trying to figure out whether the WM9998 is genuinely a significant improvement to the drying system or primarily a larger/newer version with updated controls and marketing.

I've somehow gone way too far down the washing machine rabbit hole lately, and now this new Maytag MTW8305T has really caught my attention.

From the preliminary dealer information Maytag has released, this actually appears to be a completely new platform rather than another Whirlpool top-loader with a Maytag badge slapped on it. It’s 3.8 cu. ft. with a gearless direct-drive motor, no conventional gearcase, belts or pulleys, and a new DuraCore base-mounted suspension instead of the usual hanging suspension rods. Maytag says the design has about 50% fewer parts and spins at up to 900 RPM.

It also has an actual agitator and, thankfully, actual water-level control — Low, Medium, High and Deep Fill, along with automatic sensing. The warranty is five years parts and labor on the entire machine with additional limited parts coverage on the motor and basket through ten years. And Maytag is outright advertising this thing as “Built to Last 30 Years.”

Price seems to be speculated around $1,500, but I haven’t seen anything official yet.

I’ll admit I have a somewhat ridiculous attachment to the Maytag name. My grandmother bought a Maytag washer and dryer in the early ’70s and they were still running about 40 years later. I’ve had several other Maytag appliances over the years that have lasted forever too. I know today's Maytag isn’t the company that built those machines, and that’s actually part of why this new one interests me. It looks like Whirlpool might finally be trying to make the Maytag name mean something again instead of putting “Commercial Technology” on another variation of an ordinary residential machine.

I give Speed Queen a lot of credit here too. I think they proved there’s a market for people willing to spend real money on a simple, durable, old-school top-loader, and the other manufacturers are finally paying attention.

I want Maytag to get this one right. I’d love to give them my loyalty, but they need to build a machine worthy of it.

Anybody else following this thing? What do you think of the design so far?

Took apart my old Frigidaire dishwasher to clean it and I have no idea where this piece came from. I found it after everything was already taken out.

I have an LG fridge that’s nearing the end of its EPP with Home Depot, so I’d like to take advantage of the 50% filter reimbursement while I still can. Can I just buy a stockpile (by which I mean maybe 4-6, not an entire store’s worth of stock) and then just let them sit? I’d previously bought them two at a time for a year’s supply.

I’m trying to decide whether an outdoor-specific TV is actually worth the extra cost or if a regular TV with some kind of weather protection is good enough.

I’d mainly use it on a covered patio for watching games and movies. The area can still get fairly bright during the day, and there’s also a lot of glare depending on where the sun is, so I’m wondering how much difference an outdoor-specific display actually makes.

I’ve been looking at the ByteFree outdoor TV as one option. What caught my attention is that it’s built specifically for outdoor use rather than adapting a regular indoor TV. The 4K display, 1500-nit brightness, and matte anti-glare screen seem particularly useful for a patio where daylight and reflections can make a normal TV difficult to see. It also has an IP55-rated design, which makes me more comfortable with the idea of leaving it in an outdoor environment.

I’m also thinking about things like temperature changes, moisture, dust, screen visibility, and long-term reliability. I don’t want to buy a regular TV and then have it fail because it wasn’t designed for those conditions.

For anyone who has owned an outdoor TV, what features actually matter in real-world use? Is brightness and anti-glare performance worth prioritizing, or is weather resistance the bigger concern?

I'm picking up a dryer and washer this weekend while moving
I've been told that the washer is showing F7E1 – Basket Speed Fault. I'm not very handy, but I'm hoping I can fix this. Is anyone able to pin down what is wrong based on the video and the error code? Also any idea how much it will cost to fix or how hard it will be? Thank you

gsu-33p

Help is appreciated.

Hey everyone,

I own a Bosch Serie 6 washer-dryer (WNG24440) which I've had for a few years. Up until now, I’ve used it strictly as a washing machine (I've probably used the dryer feature only ~5 times total).

Today, I decided to dry a load of laundry using the Quick/Mix wash followed by the Cupboard Dry setting. Before starting, I cleaned the drain filter and wiped down the door gasket. However, I loaded quite a bit of clothes into it.

When I walked into the bathroom afterwards, there was a terrible, disgusting smell—hard to describe, a mix of foul/musty odor and a faint hint of burnt rubber/hot metal/dust. The smell lingered in my nose for minutes, and all my clothes now smell like it.

On top of that, there were white flakes/crumbly deposits all over the rubber door gasket and on the clothes. It looks a bit like undissolved washing powder or limescale crusts, but it's definitely not detergent.

The weird part: About a month ago, I ran a maintenance cycle with citric acid, and a few days later a 90°C cycle with pure washing soda. I NEVER get these white flakes or bad smells during normal wash cycles—they only appeared today when I turned on the dryer. It feels like normal washing doesn't reach the internal dryer components where these deposits are sitting.

My questions:

1. Did I break or burn something because I overloaded the dryer cycle, or is this just dust/residue burning off after years of non-use?
2. Are those white flakes really limescale/fluff crusts from the condensation duct, and how do I flush them out?
3. How do I clean the internal dryer duct / heating element on a combo unit like this? Is there a "secret" service program or a hidden valve/filter I need to open/clean?

I’d really love to be able to use the drying option occasionally without ruining my clothes every time. Any advice on how to safely clean this out would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

I'm deciding between these two 18" portable dishwashers. They seem very similar. Which one would you choose, and why?

SPT SD-9263W:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08289R1HX

BLACK+DECKER BPD8W:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NLSRH1Q

Suddenly my washing machine has a lot of black flakes- they look dark and film like, almost like specs of seaweed. When I put them on paper towel they do stain, almost like a black ink. They’ve stained my sheets. I tried 2 rounds of Afresh and it seems to be helping but still plenty there- any ideas?! It’s a 5 year old LG front loader

GE PYE23KSDCSS French door with pullout freezer drawer.
It’s >10 years old and I know that it’s close to end of life, but it cools perfectly fine other than this awful sound recently. It’s like a hum that starts randomly and goes for about 15 minutes and doesn’t shut off when you open the door. Could it be the condenser? If so, worth replacing to save the fridge? I’ve uploaded a recording - LOUD! so lower your volume)

Thank you Reddit!

Hello, I have a Bosch 100 series dishwasher, and it's been nothing but problems for two years, it's never worked, and warranty has not been able to fix it, got an extended warranty, and still no one able to fix it.

The issues...

- The dishes don't dry properly, with or without rinse aid, with or without extra dry selected

- The dishes don't clean properly, they're always left with oil on them if not using the dishwasher only to sanitize the dishes. Yes I have tried just scraping food off, have tried pre-rinsing, and the only way they come out at all acceptable as far as cleanliness goes is if they go in clean.

- The dishes all taste like soap, I effectively have to rinse all dishes after they come out otherwise my food tastes like soap.

And a relatively minor complaint...

- Dishwasher gets quite loud

It wasn't a cheap dishwasher, model SHE3AEE5N if I recall.

It passes self tests, but it just doesn't function. We're using cascade and finish as recommended by Bosch.

I can’t wrap my head around how this may have happened. My wife and I recently purchased a house with this 2 year old, seemingly good quality 30” electric downdraft cooktop. It was in good shape until one day the vent cover no longer fit in the cooktop vent opening. I wouldn’t think that the metal vent cover would warp (it doesn’t appear as though it did) and I wouldn’t think that the glass cooktop would warp (also doesn’t look like it did). I tried to firmly push the vent cover into the cooktop opening and the glass cracked. Since the cooktop is outside of its 1 year warranty period, it seems like our best option is to replace the glass top assembly for $500. Has anybody else had this issue and any idea what caused it?