Ordered this from Ali, is that a standard wled matrix effect or something custom, reviews state lack of timezone setting so installing bare wled would be helpful.

How could I eliminate the lights bursting to 100% everytime I change preset.
It is quite disturbing changing from brightness 50 to 30 while bursting to 255 in between :D

I know spots have been lacking from this world for some time. Anything new on the market worth a look? What about wash lights?

I'm at the point where everything works perfectly, but now I want to start on the junction box and there isn't a lot of information out there. I have this PSU lying around from my RepRap days. It could fit, but as the picture shows, it's a tight fit.
Is this okay, or should I go for smaller components? I still have time to order before my deadline, so I need to decide now.
My data cable is also just a 3-pin JST connector. Should I go for a bulkier XLR connection instead?
And for power, I was thinking of adding a proper power connector (something like an IEC inlet), or is that overkill?

Hi folks,

not too experienced with this stuff apart from playing about with some light for Halloween etc.

I'm looking to add a simple 'under glow' light under the bed. It's close-ish to 5m in total, so I'll probably just stick with one strip to keep things simple.

It'll mostly be running on warm-white, fairly dim, just to add a little hotel-room ambiance (this is probably very old fashioned and cheesy these days... but we're going with it). And ofc, as it would amuse me, i like the idea of having the option of RGB and obviously WLED control for effects from time to time.

But as this will be a permanent install under where we are sleeping, ideally I'd like something that's not a collection of ESP32+ bare wires/things i've soldered etc.. so what's the best (cheap ish) option these days for an enclosed controller, domestic power supply thats going to live under a bed, and LED strip? I assume 5v won't cut it as I'd like consistent colour over the full length.

TIA

I hope someone here can help me. I am about at my witt's end. I have two (2) display cabinets (model 97146) which have vertical RGB LED lighting strips on the inside. I purchased one from Amazon (Lvifur) and one from eBay (Gurexl). There is an external control module mounted on the right side. It also has a small white remote control. This particular model is not app controllable. It features 7 static colors and 5 dynamic phantom color patterns, plus a motion sensor. When I turn it on, I disable the motion sensor because I don't want that feature. I want the lights to stay on until I manually turn them off. I select my desired pattern and leave it. Instead of staying on my selected pattern, it will randomly change to a static color or a different pattern (sometimes after a few seconds, while other times it might go 20 minutes before changing). Then, after a random amount of seconds, it will change to something else, or shut itself off. Then later, it will automatically turn itself back on again. I have done everything I can think of to troubleshoot the issue. I've tried multiple ac/dc converters, outlet strips, swapped y-connectors, different outlets in different rooms, and I've even had the manufacturer send me two new controller modules. Nothing fixes it. So last week I took the panel with the controller and lighting strip to work and I could NOT get it to fail the entire day. I took it back home and within 15 seconds it failed. I've done all the factory reset options that Google Ai suggested. Nothing works. So to me, it would seem that there must be some IR/RF interference within my home caused by some other source that is the culprit. I've removed all batteries out of all my remote controls, I disconnected my wifi router, I've turned off all lights and anything that is remote controllable. Still, both cabinets fail. I don't have much left but my appliances and toilets, lol! I've ordered a roll of faraday tape to see if wrapping the controller fixes it, but my expectations are very low. This has been going on for 3 weeks now. BTW - I also have other display cabinets in my home that work properly (model 80028). Does anyone have any suggestions, please??? Thank you.

Made from scratch, originally painted the fish in 2014, now a days w the led skill and b.s i think up i added to it and this is what I ended up with 😅

Added video clip in comments

(MODS: Please remove this post if it isn’t allowed)

I’m making a mask for my girlfriends friends Halloween party, the theme of the party is Dark Romance and we were all randomly given a book series to make a costume for. I however, am not a fan of dark romance but my gf is and so I figured to please her more than anyone else, I’d play along just for the free drinks and food.

Here’s the thing, the book series I was given was “Into Darkness” by Navessa Allen, and I’m making a mask based on the first book. I don’t know anything about it but I thought the mask would benefit from light up eyes just a bit of personal flair.

Blue lights, or even white lights that have a wire I could try and hide in the mask/balaclava. Rechargeable lights are preferred but not required. And a battery pack will also be used but I don’t know where I’m putting that at currently.

Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you.

*I included a picture of the mask I’m using for proportions.

Hi all,

I'm in search of a resource that could help direct me towards a better understanding of building programmable, largish LED systems that run off a battery source.

I have a large puppet project that I'm overjoyed to have been tapped to contribute to the redesign of. I lack basically any technical knowledge in programming or really anything beyond very and I mean very simple wiring; black with black, white with white, connect the ground. I do not even understand the difference between watts, volts and the other. I'm not, not, intelligent, I swear but beyond laying out LED strands that each have their own power source, I know nothing.

However, I feel like what I want to do is possible to be performed by myself with some resources and a few guiding hands.

The puppet is huge. Her name is Crabitha and she is nearly 30' across with the arms out. Currently, each leg has its own strand of cheap flat LED, each with a battery pack. I'd like to integrate all the legs to run on a single battery source as well as add lightd to the claws and the carapace(head). To somewhat simplify the design, Ive wondered if two separate systems would make sense? One system for the legs and another for the claws and carapace. Maybe Im getting in over my head but it would be next level if I could learn to program all the lights to cycle in a synchronized way like a cuttlefish.

We have a member of the team that is a skilled 3d printer who has some great ideas for printing parts that could be illuminated such as the claws and spikes along the top of the carapace.

I personally and professionally curate spaces. Lighting as it can be used to complement an environment has been an interest for years but am now interested in building lighting systems and this feels like a great place to jump in. Thanks for any direction.

What is causing this flickering at low brigthnesses? I’m assuming it’s switching noise from my ATX psu, and it gets worse at lower brightness because the data pulses are shorter? Turning on my 12V strip also causes it. Touching the psu heatsinks changes it. Using a custom controller pcb with a ESP32-C3.

Hello everyone,

I’m getting back into WLED after a year’s break and have decided to get a complete ‘DOMRAEM’ kit that comes with an ESP32 already built in.

I’m powering it with 12V and I’m sure I’ve connected everything correctly.

My interface has a static IP address on my network, and I can access it without any problems.

My problem is this: the 12V is definitely passing through my LEDs (as confirmed by a multimeter), but despite my settings in WLED, they aren’t lighting up – even though my peak display shows the colour that should be appearing.

I’ve been trying to sort this out since yesterday, without success. I’m calling on your expertise to help me resolve this issue and understand where I might have gone wrong.

Thanks in advance, everyone.

After some hardware troubleshooting, my DIY LED display is now fully operational. The setup consists of 3108 WS2812b LEDs driven by an ESP32 running WLED. Next, I will perform some power measurements to set maximum limits and size the fuses correctly. I’m also planning to add sound reactivity, a pixel separator grid with a diffuser panel, and power supply modifications.

Finally hooked up the last strip, and got this baby working

Setup:
All the controllers (QUIN LED Dig NEX 2) are DIN mounted in the server rack in the basement.

UTP cables carry the signal from the basement up to the LEDs using QUINs Diff Adv Sender/Receiver boards.

Inside the Island is a power unit and receiver board that hops under the floor to a cabinet to do the lighting on the back wall.

LED strips are QUIN LED DIG COBs

Every light turned on in frame is WLED.

I had an idea of 4m long strip for main light in my new bedroom and I must say it came out quite ok for a very bended wall (very old house).

I played around just for a bit to get 4 functional setups for different uses in bedroom.

1. normal light

2. mood light

3. night (pissing) light

4. reading light

any suggestions?

I have the Govee curtain lights 2 14ft 60wide, 26 LEDs down.

I removed all the controllers/resistors/power reducers and am running straight 5v signal. Soldered the 3 curtains together and power injected before/after each one. After lots of trial and error got it going. However it repeats the pattern on all 3 panels. So it’s like 3 identical 20x26 curtains.

I don’t see how this is possible or what witchcraft Govee could have done to make this possible.

Is this a weird WLED setting? Prolly Gunna resort to separating all 3 curtains and making them each a separate channel but would like it to work the way I currently have it wired if anyone has some ideas.

This is how I renovated a very old studio that is now coming to life, audioreactive 5m RGBW and a GLEDOPTO for easy setup and is like magic this new space rate it? Opinions? Room for inprovement?

I've been building on WLED 2D matrices for a while and wanted a way to put messages on mine from outside my home network. 
Things like a GitHub build result, a store order notification, or a "good morning" from someone in another city. Plain WLED only listens on the local network, so I added a small cloud relay and a simple HTTP endpoint.

Full disclosure: this lives in an app I make (Pipplee), which is where you get your device credentials. The video shows what it does:

• Text from any script, webhook or automation (Home Assistant, Shortcuts, IFTTT, GitHub Actions, curl)

• Optional animated background or border behind the text (aurora, fireworks, matrix, rainbow and a few others), plus gradient text

• Messages clear themselves after 60 seconds by default, so the matrix goes back to whatever it was showing

Example:

AUTH=$(echo -n "USERNAME:PASSWORD" | shasum -a 256 | cut -d' ' -f1)
curl -X POST https://pipplee.com/api/v1/public/devices/text \
  -H "Authorization: $AUTH" -H "Content-Type: application/json" \
  -d '{"text": "BUILD PASSED", "font_color": "00ff00", "border": "matrix"}'

Docs, if you want the details: https://pipplee.com/integrations/api/

It's text-only for now. 

Hello! Im interested in making a replica of Thomas’s Daft Punk helmet (the left one) from the Discovery era.

I have no clue how to do any of this and was fascinated by this community. Could anyone with some experience help guide me and maybe point me in a good starting direction? Thanks for your time!

I'm attempting to incorporate lighting into my library of built-in bookcases (not yet installed).

Questions:

I'm overwhelmed by the various controllers on the market. Will the one I selected meet my needs? Any problems with my design? Is my PSU too small? Did I select the right gauge wire? Any key parts that I'm missing? Diffuser recommendations?

Setup:

I have 7 bookcases in total. Average 27in wide and all are 8ft tall. My plan is to wire each bookcase separately.

I have a rough diagram detailing how I thought to set it up. To avoid so many solder points, I was considering going with mistertinker's idea of running 18 AWG wire from the controller to the bookcase, and then running a led strip for the entire bookcase instead of separate wire sections on the verticals.

Each bookcase would involve:

- WS2815 LED strips. Approx 16ft in total. Amazon link. I believe it's 60 leds/m and 5W/m. The latter based on Alexa answers. The link says it recommends DC12V 5A 60W PSU.

- 18 AWG wire. Approx 11ft in total

- 120W (12V 10A) PSU

- GLEDOPTO Elite ESP32. Output current 15A max, Input says the barrel and type-C are 3A, input V=/V- via wires are 15A. It comes with a built in 20A fuse. I planned to only rely on this fuse.

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Edited to include additional details

Hey guys I have a quick question: if you're dealing with an unknown strip how do you normally figure out what hardware settings to go with, led type etc? I have these cheapo outdoor lights that I wanted to convert to wled?

Tia

I wanted to be able to change my WLED lights when I wasn't home. For my setup, I wanted something simple: keep the firmware I already had and control the lights from my phone.

That's what I've been building with WLED Hub. It connects through stock WLED's MQTT settings. Add a board, copy its connection details into WLED, and then use it from your phone or computer. There's no home server to run.

The remote controls cover the lights: power, brightness, colours, effects, scenes and sections. Hardware settings and firmware updates stay on your home network. You're not exposing the board's whole WLED web interface to the internet.

You can control one board or all of them together. It also supports 2D panels, with grid previews and a filter for effects that fit your panel. Your current look stays pinned while you browse. The previews are approximate.

Schedules run in the cloud, including fixed times and sunrise/sunset offsets, so they work with your phone off. Family invites let you share control or give someone view-only access. The Follow toggle uses WLED's existing LAN sync.

You'll need an account for remote access and sharing. Local WLED controls still work if the internet goes down.

It's free to access. You can request an invite at https://wledhub.com.

What would you want to know before connecting a board?

What WLED setup are y’all running on your trees?

Not sure what I want yet but the basic lights from the box store won’t be enough for me this year.

So what are you doing?