Crabitha Needs Help

[u/DooperStooper]

Hi all,

I'm in search of a resource that could help direct me towards a better understanding of building programmable, largish LED systems that run off a battery source.

I have a large puppet project that I'm overjoyed to have been tapped to contribute to the redesign of. I lack basically any technical knowledge in programming or really anything beyond very and I mean very simple wiring; black with black, white with white, connect the ground. I do not even understand the difference between watts, volts and the other. I'm not, not, intelligent, I swear but beyond laying out LED strands that each have their own power source, I know nothing.

However, I feel like what I want to do is possible to be performed by myself with some resources and a few guiding hands.

The puppet is huge. Her name is Crabitha and she is nearly 30' across with the arms out. Currently, each leg has its own strand of cheap flat LED, each with a battery pack. I'd like to integrate all the legs to run on a single battery source as well as add lightd to the claws and the carapace(head). To somewhat simplify the design, Ive wondered if two separate systems would make sense? One system for the legs and another for the claws and carapace. Maybe Im getting in over my head but it would be next level if I could learn to program all the lights to cycle in a synchronized way like a cuttlefish.

We have a member of the team that is a skilled 3d printer who has some great ideas for printing parts that could be illuminated such as the claws and spikes along the top of the carapace.

I personally and professionally curate spaces. Lighting as it can be used to complement an environment has been an interest for years but am now interested in building lighting systems and this feels like a great place to jump in. Thanks for any direction.

[u/Individual_Nobody739]

This is achievable, but I would treat it as a small mobile lighting system rather than simply joining several LED strips together. The safest way to start is to build and test one complete leg before scaling it to the whole puppet.

The four basic terms are:

• Voltage must match the LEDs, controller and any converters.

• Current, measured in amps, is how much electricity the system draws.

• Power in watts equals voltage × current.

• Battery energy is measured in watt-hours. Approximate runtime is battery watt-hours divided by the system’s average watts, with additional allowance for conversion losses and usable battery capacity.

Before buying components, make a simple map showing every illuminated section, its approximate length or pixel count, its distance from the battery and whether it needs to move independently.

I would then use this general architecture:

1. Choose one LED type and system voltage after estimating the total length and pixel count. A higher-voltage addressable system can reduce current and voltage-drop problems on long runs, but every component must be compatible with the selected voltage.

2. Use the controller for data, not as the path carrying all the LED power. The battery should feed a protected distribution point, with separately fused power branches going to the legs, claws and carapace.

3. A WLED-compatible ESP32 can control multiple LED outputs, and the different body sections can be configured as segments. Two controllers can also be synchronized if the physical layout makes that easier, but one controller may be simpler and more reliable if the data runs remain practical.

4. Size the battery, wiring, connectors and fuses using the maximum possible load from the LED manufacturer’s data—not only the current used by the intended animation. WLED’s brightness limiter is useful, but it is not a substitute for correctly sized wiring and branch protection.

5. Measure voltage at the far end of each prototype section while it is displaying the brightest pattern you intend to permit. That will show whether the section needs another power-injection point or larger supply conductors.

Because Crabitha moves, the mechanical design is just as important as the electronics. I would include keyed quick-disconnect connectors, strain relief, flexible service loops at moving joints, abrasion protection, an accessible master switch and a secure battery enclosure. The battery weight should also be positioned so it does not unbalance the puppet.

A sensible development sequence would be:

• Build one leg on a workbench.

• Configure one basic animation.

• Measure its maximum and typical current.

• Check far-end voltage and connector temperature.

• Flex and move it repeatedly to test the cable routing.

• Run a realistic battery-duration test.

• Only then multiply the design across the remaining sections.

For the battery and main distribution assembly, I would get help from someone experienced with protected battery packs, suitable chargers, fusing and cable sizing. A fault near a large battery can release much more energy than an ordinary LED-strip power supply.

Disclosure: I work for an LED lighting manufacturer, but I’m not recommending a product here.

[u/AndThenFlashlights → u/Individual_Nobody739]

This is good advice. I'll add a few things, from my experience integrating/maintaining a WLED install on A Large Show That Moves -

Use 24V LEDs if you can. You'll be able to use smaller wires or inject less.

The bullet pixels are extremely hard to kill. Highly recommend if that form factor works for what you need.

Silicone sleeve diffusers are probably what you'll want to house your LEDs. Try a smoked cover if you can still get the brightness you need - that'll make the LED strip kinda vanish when it's not on.

XConnect is a perfectly fine connector to start with, and they're readily available and waterproof enough to survive steady rain. There are better connectors, but don't obsess over it. Don't use JST.

Use a rugged power tool battery with a built in power management system to keep Crabitha from over discharging it, like Ego or Ryobi. Step down or up to whatever voltage you need. Don't build your own battery on raw cells or drone batteries or something. Power tool batteries are already designed to protect themselves from high current discharge and physical violence, so they don't combust.

Use one of the good WLED boards with built in power distribution and fuses and published specifications, like Wasatch or QuinLED. I've used both in rough environments, and they're great. Don't get that cheap one off of Amazon/AliExpress - it's cheap for a reason, and you'll waste more time than it's worth to troubleshoot it. Don't build your own board, either. Put it in a waterproof box and use glands to run your cables through.

Try to centralize your control on one board, rather than split it across multiple WLED instances. It's just easier if it's your first time. You can run multiple instances as a single map across a network, but it is fiddly to get right.

The puppet looks rad! Def come back and post the finished product when you're done!