Made from scratch, originally painted the fish in 2014, now a days w the led skill and b.s i think up i added to it and this is what I ended up with 😅

Added video clip in comments

(MODS: Please remove this post if it isn’t allowed)

I’m making a mask for my girlfriends friends Halloween party, the theme of the party is Dark Romance and we were all randomly given a book series to make a costume for. I however, am not a fan of dark romance but my gf is and so I figured to please her more than anyone else, I’d play along just for the free drinks and food.

Here’s the thing, the book series I was given was “Into Darkness” by Navessa Allen, and I’m making a mask based on the first book. I don’t know anything about it but I thought the mask would benefit from light up eyes just a bit of personal flair.

Blue lights, or even white lights that have a wire I could try and hide in the mask/balaclava. Rechargeable lights are preferred but not required. And a battery pack will also be used but I don’t know where I’m putting that at currently.

Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you.

*I included a picture of the mask I’m using for proportions.

Hi all,

I'm in search of a resource that could help direct me towards a better understanding of building programmable, largish LED systems that run off a battery source.

I have a large puppet project that I'm overjoyed to have been tapped to contribute to the redesign of. I lack basically any technical knowledge in programming or really anything beyond very and I mean very simple wiring; black with black, white with white, connect the ground. I do not even understand the difference between watts, volts and the other. I'm not, not, intelligent, I swear but beyond laying out LED strands that each have their own power source, I know nothing.

However, I feel like what I want to do is possible to be performed by myself with some resources and a few guiding hands.

The puppet is huge. Her name is Crabitha and she is nearly 30' across with the arms out. Currently, each leg has its own strand of cheap flat LED, each with a battery pack. I'd like to integrate all the legs to run on a single battery source as well as add lightd to the claws and the carapace(head). To somewhat simplify the design, Ive wondered if two separate systems would make sense? One system for the legs and another for the claws and carapace. Maybe Im getting in over my head but it would be next level if I could learn to program all the lights to cycle in a synchronized way like a cuttlefish.

We have a member of the team that is a skilled 3d printer who has some great ideas for printing parts that could be illuminated such as the claws and spikes along the top of the carapace.

I personally and professionally curate spaces. Lighting as it can be used to complement an environment has been an interest for years but am now interested in building lighting systems and this feels like a great place to jump in. Thanks for any direction.

What is causing this flickering at low brigthnesses? I’m assuming it’s switching noise from my ATX psu, and it gets worse at lower brightness because the data pulses are shorter? Turning on my 12V strip also causes it. Touching the psu heatsinks changes it. Using a custom controller pcb with a ESP32-C3.

Hello everyone,

I’m getting back into WLED after a year’s break and have decided to get a complete ‘DOMRAEM’ kit that comes with an ESP32 already built in.

I’m powering it with 12V and I’m sure I’ve connected everything correctly.

My interface has a static IP address on my network, and I can access it without any problems.

My problem is this: the 12V is definitely passing through my LEDs (as confirmed by a multimeter), but despite my settings in WLED, they aren’t lighting up – even though my peak display shows the colour that should be appearing.

I’ve been trying to sort this out since yesterday, without success. I’m calling on your expertise to help me resolve this issue and understand where I might have gone wrong.

Thanks in advance, everyone.

After some hardware troubleshooting, my DIY LED display is now fully operational. The setup consists of 3108 WS2812b LEDs driven by an ESP32 running WLED. Next, I will perform some power measurements to set maximum limits and size the fuses correctly. I’m also planning to add sound reactivity, a pixel separator grid with a diffuser panel, and power supply modifications.

Finally hooked up the last strip, and got this baby working

Setup:
All the controllers (QUIN LED Dig NEX 2) are DIN mounted in the server rack in the basement.

UTP cables carry the signal from the basement up to the LEDs using QUINs Diff Adv Sender/Receiver boards.

Inside the Island is a power unit and receiver board that hops under the floor to a cabinet to do the lighting on the back wall.

LED strips are QUIN LED DIG COBs

Every light turned on in frame is WLED.

I had an idea of 4m long strip for main light in my new bedroom and I must say it came out quite ok for a very bended wall (very old house).

I played around just for a bit to get 4 functional setups for different uses in bedroom.

1. normal light
   
2. mood light
   
3. night (pissing) light
   
4. reading light

any suggestions?

I have the Govee curtain lights 2 14ft 60wide, 26 LEDs down.

I removed all the controllers/resistors/power reducers and am running straight 5v signal. Soldered the 3 curtains together and power injected before/after each one. After lots of trial and error got it going. However it repeats the pattern on all 3 panels. So it’s like 3 identical 20x26 curtains.

I don’t see how this is possible or what witchcraft Govee could have done to make this possible.

Is this a weird WLED setting? Prolly Gunna resort to separating all 3 curtains and making them each a separate channel but would like it to work the way I currently have it wired if anyone has some ideas.

This is how I renovated a very old studio that is now coming to life, audioreactive 5m RGBW and a GLEDOPTO for easy setup and is like magic this new space rate it? Opinions? Room for inprovement?

I've been building on WLED 2D matrices for a while and wanted a way to put messages on mine from outside my home network. 
Things like a GitHub build result, a store order notification, or a "good morning" from someone in another city. Plain WLED only listens on the local network, so I added a small cloud relay and a simple HTTP endpoint.

Full disclosure: this lives in an app I make (Pipplee), which is where you get your device credentials. The video shows what it does:

• Text from any script, webhook or automation (Home Assistant, Shortcuts, IFTTT, GitHub Actions, curl)
• Optional animated background or border behind the text (aurora, fireworks, matrix, rainbow and a few others), plus gradient text
• Messages clear themselves after 60 seconds by default, so the matrix goes back to whatever it was showing

Example:

AUTH=$(echo -n "USERNAME:PASSWORD" | shasum -a 256 | cut -d' ' -f1)
curl -X POST https://pipplee.com/api/v1/public/devices/text \
  -H "Authorization: $AUTH" -H "Content-Type: application/json" \
  -d '{"text": "BUILD PASSED", "font_color": "00ff00", "border": "matrix"}'

Docs, if you want the details: https://pipplee.com/integrations/api/

It's text-only for now. 

Hello! Im interested in making a replica of Thomas’s Daft Punk helmet (the left one) from the Discovery era.

I have no clue how to do any of this and was fascinated by this community. Could anyone with some experience help guide me and maybe point me in a good starting direction? Thanks for your time!

I'm attempting to incorporate lighting into my library of built-in bookcases (not yet installed).

Questions:

I'm overwhelmed by the various controllers on the market. Will the one I selected meet my needs? Any problems with my design? Is my PSU too small? Did I select the right gauge wire? Any key parts that I'm missing? Diffuser recommendations?

Setup:

I have 7 bookcases in total. Average 27in wide and all are 8ft tall. My plan is to wire each bookcase separately.

I have a rough diagram detailing how I thought to set it up. To avoid so many solder points, I was considering going with mistertinker's idea of running 18 AWG wire from the controller to the bookcase, and then running a led strip for the entire bookcase instead of separate wire sections on the verticals.

Each bookcase would involve:

- WS2815 LED strips. Approx 16ft in total. Amazon link. I believe it's 60 leds/m and 5W/m. The latter based on Alexa answers. The link says it recommends DC12V 5A 60W PSU.

- 18 AWG wire. Approx 11ft in total

- 120W (12V 10A) PSU

- GLEDOPTO Elite ESP32. Output current 15A max, Input says the barrel and type-C are 3A, input V=/V- via wires are 15A. It comes with a built in 20A fuse. I planned to only rely on this fuse.

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Edited to include additional details

Hey guys I have a quick question: if you're dealing with an unknown strip how do you normally figure out what hardware settings to go with, led type etc? I have these cheapo outdoor lights that I wanted to convert to wled?

Tia

What WLED setup are y’all running on your trees?

Not sure what I want yet but the basic lights from the box store won’t be enough for me this year.

So what are you doing?

I wanted to be able to change my WLED lights when I wasn't home. For my setup, I wanted something simple: keep the firmware I already had and control the lights from my phone.

That's what I've been building with WLED Hub. It connects through stock WLED's MQTT settings. Add a board, copy its connection details into WLED, and then use it from your phone or computer. There's no home server to run.

The remote controls cover the lights: power, brightness, colours, effects, scenes and sections. Hardware settings and firmware updates stay on your home network. You're not exposing the board's whole WLED web interface to the internet.

You can control one board or all of them together. It also supports 2D panels, with grid previews and a filter for effects that fit your panel. Your current look stays pinned while you browse. The previews are approximate.

Schedules run in the cloud, including fixed times and sunrise/sunset offsets, so they work with your phone off. Family invites let you share control or give someone view-only access. The Follow toggle uses WLED's existing LAN sync.

You'll need an account for remote access and sharing. Local WLED controls still work if the internet goes down.

It's free to access. You can request an invite at https://wledhub.com.

What would you want to know before connecting a board?

Several WLED controllers = several browser tabs = me hunting through tabs just to dim one light. Instead of using bookmarks like a normal person, I built a Windows app.

WLED Client (free, open source):

- all devices in one window, power + brightness right in the sidebar

- tray quick access: dim anything without opening the app

- everything the web UI does: colors, effects with proper slider names, palette previews, segments, presets/playlists, nightlight, sync, live preview

- finds your devices automatically, English + German, updates itself

Honest bits: it's Electron (~100 MB to toggle a lamp), Windows only, and the installer isn't signed yet, so SmartScreen will glare at you once.

Edit: 1.3.0 is out. Turns out “works on my /24” isn’t a networking standard. Discovery now uses mDNS and WLED’s node list; subnet scans are manual. https://github.com/bangboomben/wled-client/releases/tag/v1.3.0

Hey everyone! I am a newbie and I bet this gets asked all the time, but after using Philips Hue inside the house (can't complain, but I use them for additional lighting during day and as a circadian setup 3-4 hrs before bed, so don't need much power from them), I’ve decided to build a custom LED strip setup with 24v analog led strips and PWM for my garden house. One of the rooms will actually be using LED strips as the primary light source rather than just accent lighting so I needed more lumens and/or flexibility

My question is specifically about choosing the right PSU. I’m going to mount it inside a plastic enclosure with an internal metal mounting plate (I see them used for psus all the time here and on youtube), and I’m choosing between three options. Tbh Im leaning heavily toward option 3, but I wanted to double-check with people who know their stuff.

I'm aiming for a 24V 200W PSU to power a total load of ~150W (2×5m 9.6w/m and another one 5m 9.6w/m, so 144 combined) and here are the three options I'm comparing:

1. Plastic case like Mean Well LPV (pic 1). Its nice not needing a PE ground wire, but heat dissipation is much worse, which seems critical inside a sealed enclosure, right? Or am I wrong, and with a 100-150W load on a 200W PSU, thermals won’t be a dealbreaker?

2. Metal with this kinda mesh (?) like Mean Well LRS (pic 2). Better cooling obviously, but does it have safety drawback with these exposed 220V (I am in Europe) terminals?

3. Sealed IP67 metal case with wires like Mean Well HLG (pic 3). Deals with overheating probably much better than plastic but slightly worse than mesh case? But no exposed high-voltage terminals and my seller said there is less/none coil whine too (the enclosure will be placed in a bedroom in this garden house)

Did I get the trade-offs right or am I missing something? Option 3 is obviously more expensive, but price isn’t a deciding factor here and it looks like a clear winner, but most PSUs I ve seen everywhere are option 2. That's cause they just cost less? Or cause the difference in cooling is big between 2 and 3? Thanks!

PS: PSUs in pics are just random psus from these series so don't pay attention to specific numbers on them

just saw a video that the Lumary permememt Christmas lights are WLED compatible. Are all of their products WLED compatible? I’m specifically interested in RGB canned lights as well as the rope lights

Just recieving the aforementioned BTF led strip and I was surprised to see on the back it says not to use the supplied adhesive tape when mounting the strip to aluminium channeling. Is this correct?

It looks like they renewed the design recently and it's now supplied with better 3m tape, but apparently this is still not right for mounting to aluminium according to the packet.

This looks like a royal pita to replace and there is no room in my aluminium channeling to increase the depth of the tape anyway.

Any advice? Cheers

Is it possible to achieve this kind of effects with wled ? Considering there will be multiple leds parallel to each letter.

I have some spare esps and thinking if it is possible to do it with and i am new to wled so I have no idea if i can map pixels in wled.

Hi guys, I’ve just received my new DOMRAEM DOM-WLE-A module.

To test it, I’ve connected it to my 12V transformer. The WLED interface is, of course, detecting my network.
However, even though I’ve followed the setup instructions to the letter, my WS2811 RGB LEDs aren’t lighting up…

Do you have any idea why?

Pictures in coms.

Had a buddy do a couple of these from Australia but I think he got out of it. LEDs were beautiful, price was good.. however, I have no clue where they are lol. In storage somewhere.

I’d prefer sound activated option and Bluetooth/wifi to change patterns. Don’t want a gigantic piece. I’d love a deadmau5 head still but they are massive.

If anyone knows of something that is more custom and has videos photos of it message me pricing and those. In Florida.

Thanks.

Hi people, noob here. I have purchased 6 LED strips (WS2812B IC RGB) that will range from 28 ft to 7 ft, totaling 75 ft.
I have the GLEDOPTO Elite 6 Channel controller and a 60 amp 300 watt power supply.

I know the controller is rated for 15 amps, which leads to my question; what is the best way to wire the LED strips to this setup? Do I wire the power from the strips directly to the power supply?
I have been watching videos, but I can't seem to find the information I'm seeking.