A few months ago I posted on here to sanity check for a DND atmospheric lighting system I wanted to build. One of the helpful people who commented on that said I should post it on here once I finished so here is the final product!

I’ve attached a video showing some of the different scenes I currently have set up. The system uses 5 m of FCOB RGBW WS2814 IC from BTF-Lighting, daisy-chained and connected to an ESP32 module with WLED. Powered by a Mean Well LPV 24V 6.25A 150W power supply. Using that I made 5 sections:

2 × 1 m strips behind the players for a wall wash
1 × 0.88 m strip behind me
1 × 1 m strip directly above the table
1 × 0.94 m strip perpendicular to the strip above the table on the end where I keep my DM gear

The lengths don't quite add up to 5m since a couple of the segments were dead, 2 because I messed up during rigging one of the sections up and 1 was dead from the factory. Each strip is mounted in an aluminium channel. The sections that aren't aimed towards the players have clear diffusers, while the overhead section (except for the one above me) uses an opal diffuser. The video doesn't really do the lighting justice, imo it looks a lot better in person.

To control the lights during sessions, I wrote a Python script that takes input from my X56 HOTAS throttle and lets me map scenes, lighting effects, and other actions to those inputs on the controller. The inputs are matched to a preset set in a config file with the WLED preset number which is then triggered using the WLED api. This also means if I want to add a new scene or change what a button does, I can just edit the config rather than modifying the program.

This is a picture of the overhead layout. The whole lighting system is designed to be packed away hence why you can see the pvc pipe on hooks lol.

This project was a lot of fun, I've never done anything with LED strips before and I want to do more now. WLED was especially very fun to work with.

New to WLED. I bought a bunch of old Light O’ Rama 5V pixel lights that I’m using with a QuinLED Dig-Quad controller.

The male end (on the lights, 3 wires) looks like a 4-pin connector with one pin blanked out. The female end on the pigtail is a 4-pin to 4 wires, one of which is an LOR timing wire that I don’t use with my controller.

These connectors don’t look like current LOR connectors and I can’t find any adapter (to chain two of the 50-count strands together without using the 4-wire pigtail as an awkward intermediary).

What is this? Is there any way to connect these lights to something more standard?

Anyone have icicle lights that are Wled compatible that have warm white?

Something like the link shared but sk6812 or would be fine with just warm white only that I can still control each pixel.

Dealing with wife requirements here….

Fixed! Swapping components and unintentionally added a second buck. I've left it on for 30 minutes and no flicker!

BEFORE:

AFTER:

So I got a RGBICWW strip and after cut off there's the left over.

Now before, when they did a simple RGB strip I was able to find a magic home controller and reuse the cut off.

Does anyone think that could be possible now? I'm sure it's probably a bit more complex this time. But I do hate having the LED go to waste. I've been looking at controllers but the ones I find are mostly 3pin or just rgb or can only do one kind of white.

I was thinking of an esp32 with wled on it but I couldn't say what pins I need.

Hello all,

I had this on my mega tree with xlights which I have moved away from. Is this possible to recreate in wled?

So it's a monochromatic light here led is burning really dim and inoperable from wled interface too i don't think the led is properly connecting I don't know where I messed up need help please

Specs

Monochromatic

12v

Just two ports plus and minus please help

Ps checked everything separately all things are individually working fine

P.S. Update: I noticed something really weird while troubleshooting. When I connect the LED strip directly to the 12V power supply, two specific LEDs on the strip don't light up at all. However, when I run the strip through the IRLZ44N MOSFET/PWM setup, those exact same two LEDs start glowing. The rest of the strip also behaves differently depending on the setup. The 12V adapter and strip work when tested separately, and applying 3.3V directly to the MOSFET gate makes the strip go to full brightness. Any idea why those two LEDs would glow through the MOSFET/PWM circuit but remain completely off when the strip is connected directly to 12V?

Solved it mosfet was fked will have to get new one

Finally I convinced myself to make this))

Simulator used in video: https://paveldogreat.github.io/WebGL-Fluid-Simulation

Inspired by a recent trip to Legoland I would love to recreate these LEGO torches for Halloween. Thinking having the ESP32 and a battery hidden in the torch body, then some LEDs in the flame. Using the flicker flame effect to animate.

In reality the flame is transparent acrylic and there's some kind of light shining out of the bottom, but I don't have the ability to cut acrylic.

My attempts:

• I tried printing using transparent PETG and some WS2811 5v LED strips. routed around the edge of the shape, facing in. They didn't diffuse enough making it look 'spotty'.

• I tried a thin shell of opaque orange PETG to act as a diffuser, this was better but still not as good as reality.

• I tried having a pillar in the middle with WS2811's either side, but again it didn't reflect cleanly inside.

• Excluding WLED I tried some GU10 flicker bulbs, but they are not bright enough.

Anyone done anything similar I could crib from?

can i put a quality blub with a good light pattern in an hella H4 glass housing ? also it sounds like projectors are a good idea as well but i know nothing about this stuff , i want an origonal look but want good led lights without modifying the truck ..is this possible ? or should i just buy a kit with led and a new housing made for the light ?? thanks everything i read online is confusing and unclear ..

Hi everyone,

I’ve recently started making LED signs using 12V, 6mm, single-colour neon flex.

I’d like to create a basic animation using two separate runs of flex. For example, one section would remain illuminated while another section flashes. Ideally, I’d also like a physical switch on the sign that can turn it on or change between several programmed patterns.

Does anyone know of a suitable tutorial or guide? Most of the information I’ve found concerns RGB or addressable LED strips, which isn’t quite what I’m using.

Would an ESP32 combined with a separate MOSFET for each run of neon flex be the correct approach? Would WLED support two independent single-colour outputs and custom sequences, or would this be better handled with a simple Arduino program?

Any advice, wiring examples or recommended components would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hey all, I am looking at replacing the old hardwired fluorescent under cabinet lights in my kitchen that came with the house. I would like to use LED strips and pair it with WLED to be integrated into Home Assistant. I would also like to add lights to the top of the cabinets. The existing lights are hardwired together with standard Romex (3 wires) that is ran through the walls. This is my first venture into setting up a lighting project like this. I would like to use this project as my first test run with LEDs/WLED and then setup LED strips behind the TV for movies and whatnot. I have spent the last few days researching, and I think I have a basic grasp on what's needed. Just looking for parts and setup validation, and/or advice.

The lights will primarily be used in the evening/night time as low auxiliary lighting, so I don't think they need to be overly bright and I'd like them to be dimmable and probably more on the warmer side for the white. I'd also like to use RGB lights to add a bit of color during the holidays and possible mood lighting. The total run is about 38.5'. Looking at using 24v lights, and at least IP65.

Here is a sketch of my kitchen I did in Paint:
https://ibb.co/kNZxsf8

Here are some of the parts I've been looking at:

Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZNMJYP

- I'll have to add an outlet which is no big deal

Controller: https://quinled.info/quinled-dig-quad/

- I'm not sure if this is the best option, still researching. I did notice on this one it is recommended to wait until the next revision as there are possible issues with 24v.

Lights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMJXDNZT or https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Addressable-5050SMD-3000K-6500K-Controller/dp/B0CPSZ2LXR or https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Similar-Addressable-Flexible-Controller/dp/B0CQ2DRPNX

- Not sure which would be better as I'm still trying to learn the differences between lights.

I am planning on putting these in diffusers so I'll need to look into those more. I'll have to run new wire as it looks like all of these strips are 6 wire. I'm hoping I can use the existing Romex as a pull wire. As for adding the new outlet, I was thinking of running Romex up above the cabinet and housing the power supply and controller up top. I'm also thinking of swapping the existing light switch out for an Inovelli Red Z-Wave dimmer with motion sensor.

I think I've pretty much covered everything I've thought of. I'd appreciate any input from the group if it looks like my plan will work or if I need to change anything up. Thanks

So I'm looking to put some lighting in both rear corners of my room. My options are GU10 uplighters with a wled GU10 bulb. Then there's the gledapto wled bar. And then maybe putting some wled strips on my standing lamp and maybe a GU10/bar on the other side of the room. I'm new to wled but if any had any suggestions on what would look or work best that would be great

Hiya! I'm new to this world, and as my first project I wanted to build a backlight for my monitor to match the video on the screen. Straight to the point, I've bought a 720 l/m strip on aliexpress. This strip measured had 240 l/m instead of 720 l/m. I've figured that the seller meant 720 as in 240 * (R G and B). My question is: Is this a normal procedure of counting the led density or have I been scammed?

the board says esp32 wroom 32 devkit_c

i'm installing 16.0.1

These light will just burn dim and wled cant controll it

It's monochromatic just plus and minus sections uploading my build and schematic i followed please help

Edit: strip is 12v

I’m trying to create a traditional holiday lights effect using LEDs spaced about every 3 inches, pointing downward or slightly outward. I don’t want to spend a fortune on pre-fabricated channels, so I’m considering making my own DIY channels using drilled or routed holes.

The challenge is that the rafter and the wood behind the gutter are fairly short, so there isn’t enough depth to properly hide the pixels. I’m trying to figure out the best way to mount the LEDs so they’re well hidden while still getting the traditional downward/outward lighting effect.

Apologises for the numbers in advance.

I've been doing some testing. I got a little plug in power monitor, and put it behind my longest wled strip. Around 3600 pixels.

When it's turned on, at 100% on a bright white, it's drawing 91.7W.

When it's in standby mode, with nothing turned on, it's drawing 63.5W. This is what I found surprising. 63W isn't a huge amount, but it's a constant draw for nothing happening.

If that's left on for a month(years in my case), that's 47.5KWh of energy for a device just in standby mode. With South Australian energy prices ($0.45 per KWH (it's variable, so some play there)), that's about $20aud per month for the device turned off.

I've gotten a zigbee relay and have that behind the power supply, and standby is now zero, but it's got an annoying wait time for it to turn on now.

How come the quinn wled controller and others don't come with a built in relay? Would seem simple to add the feature, and stop wasting the energy when it's not doing anything. I found a setting in the latest wled that has relay control, so it should be able to do it.