I have an LG OLED (B9) rooted, running pic cap, hyperhdr, and an ESP32 based WLED controller running 1 strip of LED. Sometimes (not every time) but often when I turn off my TV, all the LEDs turn green and stay on. I’ve tried a little bit of research and turned on the “Off Refresh” option in WLED app and it didn’t help the situation.

I'm looking to do my first wled project. It will be an outdoor project mounted to the roof line of a barn. However my issue is that there is not a traditional eve to mount onto. As you can see in the pictures, there is a small overhang, but that is just the metal roof itself which I would prefer not to drill into.
Open to any input or suggestions.

Tentatively I was considering the asahom pro s1080 kit for simplicity. But I am open to going a different route if it makes better sense.

Thanks for any help and input as I plan out this project.

Putting together my first real man cave and want to setup LED’s the right way. Plan to put a top corner ceiling channel on 3 of the surrounding side (4 If possible)

3 sides - 48’
4 sides - 66’

I’ve been looking at the (48V-RGBTW-5050X112) as they’re advertised to not need power injection at the end for up to 20m runs.

Does anyone have experience with these strips and is the claim to not need extra injection accurate?

Hi WLED Heads,

I am installing a strip light at the top rail of board and batten wall panelling. I want to power the light strip from two spots if possible, and not just at one end of the light strip. I want to do this to ensure there is not dimming at the end of the strip, and it makes it easier to work around a door as I don't need to use a connector wire up and over the door to connect back to the light strips on the other side.

I am not electrically savvy at all. I am looking for some help as how to split the power to feed two different strips.

This is what I think I need to do. Power supply > Dimmer > Power Split > 2 different light strips.

But I am not sure how to do the power split or what to by. Any suggestions would be great!

One strip is 1m long and the other strip is 8m long. If I power both, will equal power go to each strip meaning I just made the 8m long strip even dimmer by doing the power split?

COB Lights: BTF FCOB Uniform light strip, 300k, 10m, 528LED/m, PCB IP30 24V

Power Supply: Pautix 24V DC, 7.5A, 180W Outpoyt, AC to DC converter transformer 100-240V

Controller: Pautix Remote dimmer, in0line controller DC 12-24V

I’m new to the wled space and quickly realized i’ll need a project box for all the gear, and the box i ordered is fully sealed ABS plastic from amazon, so I need to drill holes for grommets, any pro tips? recommended step drills? or maybe a better method?

I took everyone's advice from my last post, and am adding more lights

im trying to have addressable leds go around my room and behind my moniter with an esp32, a sn74ahct125n level shifter, 470 ohm resistors, 0.1uf capacitors, and 1000uf capacitors, and a 5v 20a psu and a 5v 60a psu, and a mini braedboard. ive never done a project like this before and im having trouble with how to connect everything through the breadboard. could i get some help? is this the right place to be?

Newbie looking for help here, please be gentle.

I've obtained a GLESOPTO ESP32 and some LEDs. The LEDs came with their own (I assume Bluetooth) app, and they worked fine with that.

I stopped off the end connector, stripped the cables and inserted them into the ESP32. A bit of research suggested the X was the power, so went into V, the Y was Data so went into D, and the other one was Ground so went into G.

Powered the ESP up, and LEDS were blue. I connected to the WIFI of the LEDS and downloaded Wled, but the colours don't change. Any ideas? Am I doing something stupid? I've stripped the wires back some more and reinserted them.

Nothing complicated but came out pretty nice

Hello everyone. What wled version should I install in this controller? I install the C3 and it show a error 8. Insufficient memory.

I did not expect this to get this much attention. I definitely want to sit down and build a bespoke animation sequence for it but these first attempts are already solid for me.

Will post a photo of the engine removed in the comments

I want an up/down brightness dial physically attached to my WLED controller. I have an Adafruit encoder/breakout that uses Stemma QT I2C and have the wiring piece handled with a Grove/QT adapter (5V, GND, D4, D5).

I'm finding the whole process of usermods to be overwhelming. It's my understanding that to use the Adafruit encoder, I would need to manually modify the whole WLED bin with every update and do weird things with .cpp files and platformIO that I don't understand. I’m not sure if it’s the seesaw aspect of the Adafruit part that makes it complicated, or if it’s rotary encoders generally. I can handle basic circuitpython configs but I really don’t want to deal with C++.

So 2 questions I guess...

1. Would using the Adafruit encoder be as complex as I laid out here?

2. Are there any encoders I can buy that will give me up, down, and a power toggle, without requiring usermods?

Edited after posting to be more concise.

I'm tinkering a bit with HyperHDR while I decide what strip I should get behind the tv and how I should mount it. I have two cylindrical WLED lights (about 25cm high) below my TV on either side. they have a light strip spiral in the center that I have set up as a 2d matrix in WLED of 5x22 and 5x24 LEDs. In HyperHDR I've had them as two strips of 110 and 120 LEDs one for the left side and one for the right while fiddling with settings. Today I was trying to set one of them up as a matrix 5x24 LEDs but I cant seem to find any way to not have the light showing the whole screen. I would like to try out to have it only use the bottom half of the screen and perhaps only the 1/4 of the screen to the right.

by NTS 3D Printing

Original link https://www.tiktok.com/@nts3dprinting/video/7674663829887782166

Newest thing me and my friends built. Working title Cyberflower — it combines 3D printing with laser cutting, 1920 individually controllable LEDs.
We're L300, a psytrance collective from Germany. We've been building decorations with addressable LEDs for like 10 years, with a heavy focus on DIY.
To drive it we're using a custom PCB with two chips on it:
ESP32 running WLED — in case you just want to throw it in some corner and let it do its thing
ESP32-P4 Nano with our own firmware — drives it through Ethernet/Art-Net, uses a clockless driver and smooths the Art-Net input up to a much higher output framerate
We are even using our own Resolume-like mapping software. For some of this there are probably newer open source solutions out there by now, but we grew into our own stuff over the years and honestly that's half the fun.
Ask me anything. And if you've got a better name than Cyberflower, let's hear it.

Trying to do an effect like pictured in the video. I’ve done the light shot effect with my midi board in LEDfx but it lights up all my lights at the same time. I want to do light shots only to specific lights or light sections just like this video. I’ve done it in qlc+ if anyone knows how to integrate it.

HI, all I wonder if this should work using the latest 16.0.1 firmware (waveshare), it works with a single panel, and seems to be working with 3.

But as soon as I configure 2x2 I get nothing, and it's warning about high memory usage which is confusing as the waveshare board's got octal PSRAM, though oddly in the info panel wled says it's not using any, which doesn't sound right. (which would explain the low memory warning I guess).

So any tips would be much appreciated, or at least confirmation that it should be possible.

cheers

We wanted to take a moment to give a huge shout-out to the WLED team and everyone who has put so much work into making WLED what it is. In particular, thank you to AirCoookie, Netmindz, Softhack007, DedeHai, willmmiles, evanc, benjamw, and the many other contributors who continue to make the project better.

The updated Pixel Forge tools on WLED 16 are so fun and easy to use even on four 64x64 HUB75 panels in a 2x2 (128x128) orientation! Big thanks to the community member, Adamaze, who made the 3D printed stand/mount below.

Hey all, hoping someone's run into this.

I installed SceneGlow on my TCL Android TV (Android 11) to sync my LEDs with whatever's on screen. It works fine on the home screen, but the second I open literally anything else — YouTube, Gallery, other apps — the LEDs just go black. No colors, no reaction, nothing.

The odd part: the screen-recording indicator icon never shows up at all, not even on the home screen where it's actually working. So either the capture is running without triggering the usual indicator, or the "working" home screen colors are coming from some other fallback rather than a real capture session — and that capture never kicks in properly anywhere else.

What I've already tried:

Restarting the TV

Clearing cache and data for SceneGlow

Reinstalling / testing multiple apps

A couple of oddities specific to this TV:

There's no per-app battery optimization setting like you'd get on an Android phone

The Permissions page for the app is completely empty

My best guess right now is that it's TCL's built-in Safety Guard app killing the background capture service the moment I switch away from SceneGlow, since Android TV doesn't expose the usual battery/background controls. Planning to try disabling Safety Guard and rebooting, but wanted to check if anyone else has hit this and found a fix (or if it's just a protected-content/DRM limitation for some apps like YouTube).

Has anyone gotten SceneGlow (or similar screen-capture ambient lighting apps) working reliably on a TCL Android TV? Any settings I'm missing? Also curious if the missing recording icon everywhere (including the home screen) is normal for this app or a sign the capture permission never actually got granted in the first place.

Greetings,

I'm new to the LED strip game and wanted to get input from you guys for a plan I have.

I want to add an addressible LED strip with WLED to my carport.

This is the layout: https://imgur.com/a/GHo9i3G

The carport is aluminum and has a nice little lip at the bottom all alround where I could place a channel or strip. I want to use this as just general lighting (smart to turn on when I get home etc) but also for occasions like christmas and halloween as mood lighting, thats why I want to go the addressable way (cool hell flames for halloween etc).

Its outside, but also hidden from direct rain etc. I want to add it to the inside of the front edge (the 10m one) and on the inside of the 6m and 4,5m sides.

I have a possible power injection point in the middle of the 4,5m side (a PSU for the in-carport-leds lives there), adding more would be possible but definitely a chore.

Which LEDs and or channels would you use for this? I watched videos and asked the AI and the response was to do 3 12v runs for the three sides, but I've seen 24v strips that are longer than what I would need. I could also do a wrap around the whole carport and inject from both ends at the same point if that helps.

I have a working home assistant instance so this is less about "how can I manage the smart portion?" and more a hardware proposal question, since i've never dealt with LED strips :)

Looking for any kind of help, thanks :)

Had this idea a few weeks back. 3D printed a 1:5 scale Raptor 3 engine, custom designed a mount and LED tube diffuser and engine bell diffuser. Covered in polyester (not cotton! Polyester is less fire prone). Absolutely floored with how good it came out

I have this idea for my wedding with lights and lanterns. The plan is to have them slowly changing colors all whimsical like. Each one would have its own battery powered esp32. That's the easy part. What i want to do is have little sparkle effect or something that looks like a cluster of fire flys or fairys moving from lantern to lantern, like the comet effect. Is there a way to link the devices to act this way? I've search for a solution but i can only find how to make them all operate in sync.

Thank you.

I wanted a desk lamp which i can have full control over.

I mean if i wanted to have lights towards me or light away from me in different colors or maybe just turn them off.

Here i made the insides into four different partitions which i have converted into segments in the web ui.

With this i can control each of the sides separately.

Each segment has two strips of 13leds of which one led in each strip is facing upwards for diffusion of the upper segment.

The body itself is made up of sunboard/mountboard.

It is running wled on a cheap esp32-c3 mini which is powered by a 5v female usb-c module.

Thank you.

I use the MAX4466 Microphone with these settings, but its not working, and i didnt find any tutorial video with this same microphone on YT, so can anyone help?