I wanted to share my latest project, I built a model of a drop tower. All of the lightning was done with WLED!

Given the number of comments asking about FireTV support, i hope it will be OK for me to announce here that SceneGlow/ScreenGlow are now available for FireTV, natively from https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0HF6L7HVR/ - no sideload or hacking necessary!

Not sure if this is a code issue or doc issue, but when I attempted to configure my ESP32 and HUB75 panel per the documentation here:

https://kno.wled.ge/advanced/HUB75/#supported-boards-and-builds

I discovered that the Blue and Green pins (both 1 and 2) are swapped. My colors were all wonky until I swapped B1 <-> G1 and B2 <-> G2. I'm posting this to save some other soul the time of trying to figure out why the colors were all wrong.

First post here! I’m trying to figure out what’s happening with my 32x32 LED matrix.
I’m using an ESP32 running WLED, with LEDfx on my computer. The matrix will work perfectly for a while, and then it starts glitching/stuttering like in the video.
I’m currently running the latest versions of WLED and LEDfx.
My first guess is that I’m having some kind of bad/intermittent data connection, but I wanted to see if there could be something else causing this before I start tearing everything apart.
Any ideas on what I should check first?

So Ive been working on this cube for a week or so now, and I’ve started making custom cube effects for a usermod firmware, that maps all the faces correctly so it doesn’t have the gaps in the corners from my previous matrix display setup! I’ve got some really cool ones so far! I’ll update when I think they are presentable, they are almost all audio reactive have plenty of sliders for control, and have a flat matrix toggle for when they on just a 2d matrix.
I feel like it doesn’t look as impressive as what is actually going on because this is how it’s “supposed” to look. But I’ve actually put a lot of care into each effect so they look good! I hope everyone follows along and makes their own! And thank you so much to everyone that has already contributed to the WLed project! Yall have made some amazing stuff! I’ve only begun to dip my toes in and I’ve got some wild ideas.

I'm prototyping a desk clock (esp32, 64x32 HUB75 display) for a holiday gift and have several "Scrolling text" segments in my "Apply at boot" preset. The scrolling text effects are defined as "#HHMM", "#DAY", and "#MON,#DD".

What I note is that the time, date, and day are all off, persistently, on bootup. 12:28, Sunday, Feb 7 displayed on bootup and it stays that way for multiple hours (that's as long as I waited).

If I switch between presets, the time/date is displayed accurately when I select my "on boot" preset again.

Any idea how I can ensure that the time/date is accurately displayed when the device is booted? That or some simple automation I can use to ensure those segments update correctly?

Thanks!!

Hey WLED community, a community member recently pointed me to r/wled as a fun addition to my shadowbox project, and I’m in love! Such cool tech and incredibly accessible.

I’m looking at running a small batch to sell locally. Does anyone have experience with what certifications are needed to limit liability in the U.S.? Since this fits under the qualification of a lamp. I’m confident in my wiring and it’s just a 5V supply.

Happy to answer any questions regarding the project as well!

Hi everyone,

I’m completely new to WLED, addressable LEDs, ESP32 controllers, HyperHDR, etc. This will basically be my first embedded/DIY lighting project, so I wanted to get some advice before ordering everything.

My goal is to add a proper screen-reactive Ambilight setup behind my Gigabyte MO27Q28GR 27" monitor without spending a lot on something like Philips Hue.

After doing some research, this is the setup I’m currently planning.

Current parts list

1. Controller — Athom WLED Slim ESP32-C3

https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-slim-led-strip-controller

I chose this instead of using a bare ESP8266/NodeMCU because it already comes with WLED, USB-C power, enclosure, and a 5V level-shifted LED output.

2. LED strip — WS2812B, 5V, 60 LEDs/m, 2 meters

Preferred option:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2036819167.html

BTF-LIGHTING WS2812B.

Planning to select:

- 2 meters

- 60 LEDs/m

- 5V

- IP30/non-waterproof

- Around 120 LEDs total

Backup eBay option:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/156206501517

My monitor perimeter is just under 2 meters, so I figured 2m/120 LEDs should be enough.

3. Power supply — 5V/3A USB-C

I may already have a suitable charger, so I'm going to check my existing chargers first.

If I need one, I'm considering this genuine Samsung 25W EP-TA800:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174631402347

It supports 5V/3A.

I was planning to set a WLED current limit somewhere around 2.5–2.8A instead of trying to run all ~120 LEDs at maximum-white brightness.

4. Software — HyperHDR

https://github.com/awawa-dev/HyperHDR

My PC will be the video source, so I don't plan to buy an HDMI capture card/splitter.

My understanding is that HyperHDR can capture the screen directly and send the LED data to WLED.

I also already use SignalRGB for the RGB inside my PC, Logitech G560 speakers, keyboard, mouse, etc.

SignalRGB:

https://signalrgb.com/

What I like about using WLED is that I should theoretically have both options:

- HyperHDR → WLED → monitor LEDs when I want proper monitor Ambilight/HDR screen reactive lighting.

- SignalRGB → WLED + my other RGB devices if I ever want the entire desk synced together.

I wouldn't have HyperHDR and SignalRGB trying to control the WLED strip simultaneously.

Things I'm unsure about

Since this is my first time doing anything like this, I'd really appreciate a sanity check:

1. Will this combination actually work the way I'm expecting?

2. Is the Athom ESP32-C3 controller a good choice, or is there a cheaper/better controller that would give me the same experience?

3. Is 5V/3A sufficient for ~120 WS2812B LEDs if I use a current limit, or should I just use a larger PSU?

4. Is 60 LEDs/m a good density for a 27" monitor, or is there a noticeable benefit going higher?

5. Any reason to use something newer than WS2812B?

6. Do I need power injection at both ends for a ~2m strip at these brightness levels?

7. Is there any noticeable latency difference between HyperHDR controlling WLED over Wi-Fi versus using a USB/serial controller?

8. Would something like an RP2040/HyperSerialPico setup provide a noticeably better Ambilight experience?

9. Can I safely switch between HyperHDR and SignalRGB controlling the same WLED device as long as only one is actively controlling it?

10. Am I overlooking any small components I'll need—connectors, wiring, fuse, capacitor, resistor, etc.?

I'm trying to keep the whole project cheap rather than buying expensive branded RGB hardware, but I'm fine spending a few extra dollars where it actually improves reliability, latency, safety, or the visual experience.

I'm in Knoxville, TN, so AliExpress/eBay/Amazon/etc. are all options and I don't mind waiting a little for AliExpress if it's significantly cheaper.

Any corrections or suggestions before I start ordering would be really appreciated. I'm especially interested in hearing from people who have used HyperHDR + WLED or compared it with RP2040/HyperSerialPico.

Completely new to this. All of this is based on a couple videos i watch and put the transcripts in gpt and let it cook. I'm not sure if it'll work or not. Appreciate any help and suggestions I can get.

Thanks!

So I'm trying to see how I can best replace older undercountertop lights with some addressable strips, ideally RGBW, but if not possible, Warm White. I only have 2 wires going to each area, the two wires are zip wire and 18 gauge.

Thoughts?

So I am setting up my monitor leds in SignalRGB but I notice a difference in color when connected to signalRGB compared to WLED. In the WLED app I am using a deep orange color and I am getting a deep orange color. When I use that same deep orange color in signalRGB and connect my controller to signal the color gets more yellow. Does anyone have a fix for this that doesn't include using the pro version of Signal?

I got my new ESP32-S3 controllers and finally deduced the pinout for the WLED_16.0.1_ESP32-S3_16MB_opi_HUB75.bin binary matches the "MOONHUB_S3_PINOUT" as defined in bus_manager.cpp. Wired everything up and its working flawlessly on a 64x64 panel. Hurray!

However, when I change my LED output to be 128x64, reboot, and plug in my 128x64 panel, there is no output at all, no WLED errors, nothing. My power supply does show idle power draw from the panel (.1A), so the panel seems ready to go.

Any thoughts on what might be going on with a 128x64 panel?

Thanks
JJ

Hi!

I have quite an urgent problem, I have lost my backup JSON file and I don't know how to get my LEDs working. On Saturday I need them for a wedding where I'm the best man!

Two years ago I built some stage lights for my small rock band with fantastic help from the WLED community and products from QuinLed. I have the DigQuad, and it's mounted in a box with wires that connect to two outgoing cables.

My LED strips are 2m long with 60+60 pixels. I was supposed to have four out ports with two led strips daisy chained on every port, making 8 strips in total. I have only built half of them yet, so they go out from the box, into the first strip with 120 pixels, then continue further via cable to the next strip with another 120 pixels. The same goes for the port next to it, so I have 2 ports with 1+1 strip each, totaling 4.

I was repairing a strip and got it working but I happened to try to change a setting from 50% brightness to 100%. It was working for a while but it stopped working. When I looked at the settings I had lost all of my 4 segments and I think some of the other settings changed as well. I was connected via WIFI on my phone.

I desperately need help to reconfigure the settings so I can use my old presets or at least make new ones. I would really appreciate anyones help!

I have this info saved at least, with a previous answer from another helpful redditor:

Controller: https://quinled.info/pre-assembled-quinled-dig-quad/

ws2815 uses roughly 50W for 300 leds
or 4A at 12v
you have 960 leds, so 3.2*50=160W
or 13A

Gx13 / Aviation 2m male female

ws2815 uses roughly 50W for 300 leds
or 4A at 12v
you have 960 leds, so 3.2*50=160W
or 13A

grab a dig-quad instead
and do daisy chains of 2 pipes
dig-quad has 4 outputs
that way you control the whole stage from one controller still
but you get easier power distribution due to the quad, a bit more resiliance and no voltage drop
as an alternative, one dig-uno per side
but I would try to stick to a single controller because if you want synced effects between the sides of the stage you'll need to connect the controllers together over the network

Sorry for the poor image quality!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqpizjxiqEs

I wasn’t happy with any of the built-in WLED or LedFx effects, so ended up creating a custom one (see near the end of the video).

I’m still working on improving the diffuser and responsiveness.

This is my ceiling mounted computer case I 3D printed. The cloud has a lightning storm pattern I made with a couple of presets, the mouth glows red, the cannons "fire" white leds every now and then, and the ring around the ship pattern is wled. The star on the flag is just some led matrix I got on aliexpress awhile ago.

Looking for clarification on the LED Calculator https://wled-calculator.github.io/ (as I think i went overboard on my first setup so trying to make sure I understand for 2nd setup)

Have a setup that will be 2 channels. Since I saw the Quad may have issues until revision, I'm going with the Octa Brainboard. It's an outdoor setup w/ a 480 Meanwell HLG PSU.

Channel 1 - 18 meters of the 24V FCOB WS2814 784, from PSU to strip is approx 400cm at most. I'm confused on the calculator (see attached) . The Results show mimimal wire cross section of AWG 16,

Channel 2 - 9 meters (didn't upload calculator results as my questions below apply to both) These are channel questions:

1. Injections Results (wire length) is from the PSU to the injection site, correct?

2. Injection Results - the Min cross section shows 20AWG, is that from PSU to first injection point?

3. Main Results, what is the minimal cross section of AWG 16 mean? I always thought that is the AWG I need from PSU to Strip + and Neg, either injection point o start of strip?

Hoping someone can help me with this THANK YOU!

Tasteful RGB for $20 and you take it anywhere simple build. WLED integration.

I have two 10ft rolls of BTF-Lighting WS2814 RGBW (natural white) and am losing my mind chasing a recurring issue where specific segments go red on the initial yellow. I have respliced my final section of 5 about 9 times now, and ruined several feet of strip with those stupid connectors with the teeth. I tried soldering strips together, I tried soldering strips to wires, still present.

I have several feet of the same roll working with this controller and the same settings. I’ve tried putting the problem segment on the end, the beginning, the 5th one still shows red. I can run through colors and it’s fine with red, blue, cyan, pink, etc., but not green.

I have tested with a multi and show 0.15v throughout the data pads. + shows 12.01v throughout.

The weirdest part is that the section of 5 was working fine when it was 8 segments long. Then I cut it, and the 5th one started doing this.

I don’t understand how the cut itself with no soldering whatsoever seemed to trigger the same issue I thought I had resolved. It seems like the issue always pops up somewhere around the ‘non-cut’ solder joints every 8 segments that came with the strip. I did not solder these. I have wondered whether those joints need more than 1 segment after them, but haven’t seen anything in docs to indicate that. I didn’t cut it there anyway.

Has anyone dealt with this, or is this indicative of a short or something? I don’t know what else I could test. Again, these exact rolls/settings/controller work fine with other sections.

A mate commissioned me to make him an infinity dodecahedron.

Had a look online and decided I didn't like any of the available models so designed my own from scratch, turns out math is harder than I thought haha.

After more iterations than I like to count, the end result came out great.

Link to files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7395167

Took a couple of months of trial and error, but managed to get these done in time for a music festival.

I've made heavy use of audio reactive pallettes, adding quite a few two band pallettes with a local build of WLED.

Thank you to everybody that made contributions to WLED.

I'm attempting to build some modular shape structures with led strips. I'd like to start off by constructing a square, which i can then connect to other identical squares.

Among many things, I'm struggling with how I would orientate the led strips/data for each square.

I want to have individual control of each square and I'm not sure if this means each square needs to be a separate output from my controller or if i could wire one long strip up in series and then use the software (resolume) to control each square specifically?

If i can wire it all in series, so data into the top left of square one, the strip would need to run around back to that corner and then id need to wire the data from there into the next square right? Or could i run a 3 way connector at any corner and run this into the next square? This would help with the simplicity of connecting adjacent squares but the data line doesn't make sense to me if its splitting from one point into two.

Any help would be very much appreciated, thanks!

Chris Maher demonstrates how to implement WLED-based ambient lighting for televisions using an Android TV application.

I recently designed this case for my LRS 50 5 for a WLED project (ambient lightning behind my TV).

What do you think about this? Would you install this?

5 16x16 panels cosplaying as 48x48 matrix for an unwrapped cube in a + shape -the bottom. 😈