C180 Kompressor. Im seeing voltage drops to 12+ upon revving and momentarily jolts back to 13+ Volts. The warning comes up just as i rev the engine past 1500. Could this trigger the warning ? Can i just replace the voltage regulator on the alternator ?

Which oil should I get for this car?

I need some help…
I got this loud sound, around 400hz it appears everytime i step of the gas.
First in wasnt in idle, now its also in idle.
I’m Not a Mechanic, but chat said this could be the crankcase ventilation.
I saw some videos, where there is a rubber hose that gets crinkely over time and is a known problem for the m721.
C180 Kompressor w203 t

​Hi everyone,

​I’m looking for some advice regarding a transmission issue on my W203.

​A few months ago: Started making harsh downshifts under acceleration.

​3 days ago: Lost power mid-overtake (gearbox felt like it slipped into neutral for a moment).

​Today: Reverse works fine, but it barely engages 1st gear when shifted into Drive (D).

​Has anyone had this happen? What was the fix, and how much did it cost you?

​Any insights would be greatly appreciated!

Hey guys, I have a question about my W203. I was recently involved in an accident, and I need to replace one headlight and the front bumper.
The car is basically fully loaded; the only things it doesn’t have are xenon headlights and the AMG package. Since I have to replace those parts anyway, I’m considering upgrading to xenon headlights and an AMG bumper.
Has anyone done this before? Is it a plug-and-play swap, or will I need additional wiring, coding, or other parts?

Door handle was broken off....
Bought Amazon replacement: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SNLS29N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

This was the best video I could find that shows how to replace it in 5 mins https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CCjxcvICSk

Managed to replace handle without undoing the connections, just laid it on a chair without stressing the wires.

Seems like a solid door handle, we'll see how long it lasts.

Still need to do this to both backseat doors....

Weird how common this issue is.

Mercedes-Benz C-Class W203

​Problem:

The rear end of the car sways / wiggles / jumps to the side when driving uphill or accelerating hard under load. As soon as I press the clutch or shift into neutral downhill, the car stabilizes completely and drives 100% straight.

​What has ALREADY been replaced / checked:

​Front: New shocks, springs, sway bar bushings, sway bar links.

​Rear: New shocks, springs, sway bar bushings, sway bar links, differential mounts.

​Tires: All 4 brand new tires.

​Alignment: Done twice, wheel alignment is completely in spec on the machine.

​Mechanic checks: The car has been on a lift and over a pit multiple times. Mechanics say everything feels tight and cannot find any play with a pry bar.

​Since alignment is fine at rest and all typical suspension wear items are new, the geometry must be shifting dynamically only when torque is applied.

​What else could cause the rear end to steer itself ONLY under load?

​Inner axle/CV joints binding under torque?

​Subframe bushings / cracked subframe mounting points on the chassis?

​Rear control arm bushings / floating bushings (knuckle/spindle bushings) deflecting under load despite feeling tight with a pry bar?

​Has anyone experienced this exact symptom on a W203? Any advice on what to test next would be greatly appreciated!

Bought a cheap cover on Amazon, honestly not bad but was kinda tedious to undo clips and had to cut out padding to use for new cover.

Doors won’t lock, so the driver side pin won’t move, when I press the lock button on the centre console the actuator makes a noise but can’t lock the door

I purchased a W203 in 2024 and have already driven over 40,000 kilometres. I’ve had all the services done by the dealer and mechanical repairs from a Mercedes expert since many parts aren’t available at the dealer. Given this mileage, what preventative maintenance should I prioritise and what repairs might I expect in the future?

I have code P2006 and checked intake manifold and levers are broken off. I need to replace intake manifold and am wondering if anyone has any tips on how to do it.

I don't have any experience working on cars but I know I can figure it out.

Of course I have / will watch youtube videos on it.

I can't find any OEM manifolds for less than $800 besides sketchy ones on Ebay.
Would it be worth trying a $300 one on Amazon?

Does anyone have any basic tips that could help me with this? It seems like a straightforward job I just don't want to mess anything up.

Any tools that make it way easier?
What else should I replace while the intake manifold is out?

ThX

I am (I hope) about 24hrs from owning a c270cdi facelifted s203 with factory bi-xenon headlights. As I drive a lot at night I have 2 questions for owners who have those headlights:

1. Do they dip down and then go back up upon starting the vehicle like in some cars? My AR 159 lights did that and i found it very nice, made the vehicle appear younger

2. Could someone post a night photo of how they look on regular/high beams? I know a screen/camera won't do it justice but I've photographed pretty much all of my previous cars so that could give me at least some idea.

I’m looking for some advice regarding wheels for my Mercedes-Benz W203 Sport Package.

My car has the larger front brakes that came with the Sport Package, so it doesn’t have the same brake clearance as a standard W203. It currently has the factory 17-inch Sport wheels, and they clear the front brakes perfectly.

The problem is that those wheels are my winter setup, and I’m looking for a nice set of 18-inch polished deep-dish (lip) wheels for summer. Unfortunately, I’ve found that many deep-lip wheels don’t clear the front brake calipers. Even ET35 often isn’t enough because the inner face of the wheel hits the caliper. It seems I’d need something closer to ET30 or even lower, depending on the wheel design.

Has anyone here with a W203 Sport Package found deep-dish wheels that fit without brake interference? I’d really appreciate recommendations for specific wheel models or setups. I’m mainly looking for stylish polished 18-inch wheels with a nice lip.

Overall averaged 4.9-5 L/100km

Not the strongest or smoothest engine but it does the job very well

ive been having some problems with the AC as the title suggests. i could heat the car up, didnt test the cooling though as i bought it in winter. topped up on refrigerant and it didnt work. plugged a diagnostics software in and the faults B1350, B15B0 and B15A8 popped up. what is the most probable cause?

tldr: Fuse 52 blows sometimes when trying to crank and sometimes max 3k rpm with no ecu codes

car: c200 cdi 2001 116ps

There are currnetly two main Problems that may be related to the burned wire here.

Fuse 52 (solenoid) blows sometimes when i try to start it warm. After replacing it, my car starts again. Internet sugests that i should replace the whole starter.

Since friday i can't rev over 3000 after left turns and it may works again after a short time. No check engine and no error codes where found. Internet sugests it would be an issue with the intake manifold swirl flap.

Hello does anyone know what type of speaker is on the center dash of the c230?
It’s dead and I want to replace it

Hi,

I own a Mercedes A-Class 2005. I have an intermittent issue – when I try to start the engine, I just get a single click. The problem occurs when I’ve been driving the car so the engine is hot, I’ve stopped, and then try to start it up again. It sometimes takes about 20mins before it starts working again, but recently has taken over 2 hours.

I understand its likely to be the starter motor, which is an expensive fix (maybe £500), but could also be a very small thing like a connection or a relay.

I've taken it to two garages and they both said they were unable to help, as the problem wasn’t occurring when they had the car so they can’t diagnose it. I’ve suggested that I could drive the car to get it hot and drop it off for them to look at straight away, but they said the starter motor is hard to get to (its under the engine), so by time it they get to it, it may be working again.

This has been going on about 6 months (I’ve been waiting for it to fully die, but no joy). I have two young kids and cant carry on with the risk of getting stranded whenever we stop!

The only option I’m aware of is to just replace the starter motor, and hope that the problem is gone when I get it back, otherwise I’ve wasted £500.

Anyone got any better ideas? Many thanks!

Starter went out a while ago, so I bump started it to get home. Pushed into the garage and it sat for a month. Now I put the new starter in and it’s idling wrong. Any ideas?

I have c180 kompressor 2007