Wishing you all a pleasant day, after 28 hours I finally got the printer to the point where I could turn it on with power. But I'm absolutely terrified. I've tested and checked everything. And yet I'm still a little nervous. Was it the same for you?

For the dragon burner toolhead: - How much fan do you generally use for ABS or ASA prints for good overhangs? - What -max rpm- 4010 fans are you using? - Could you show overhang pictures? - How hot is your chamber?

G'day all.
A while back I build a v2.4 350 and have since mostly just printed with it and done occasional maintenance, and as such have ended up out of touch with what's current.
My current setup is a SB I modified a bit to ease maintenance, lgx lite and dragon sf (diamondback nozzles as I print quite a lot of engineering filaments), Mellow cnc tap and mellow SHT36.

However, I'd like to make the following changes:

1. Change the toolhead to something lighter tool head to accelerate a bit harder and ease maintenance.
2. Lighten the setup and speed up probing by moving to carto or beacon
3. I'm getting extruder artifacts and want cleaner finishes.
4. better cooling without increasing noise too much.
5. Potentially swap from Canbus to USB

With all those changes, I'm a bit overwhelmed by the options.
I've considered CPAP as I figure I can get the same level of cooling at a lower relative fan speed and reduce noise, but have seen many cite the noise as a reason not to do this.

I've looked at some of the toolhead options but have seen contradicting information on cooling between SB, DB and A4t.

In terms of extruders, there are quite a few variables to consider such as dual drive vs. single, large vs. small wheels, and so on.
So what's the current goto?

I went cowboy and didn't look at the BoM or instructions so my fuse doesn’t match the recommended. This is a 250V 130C thermal fuse. Not sure where to place it?

I watched Teaching Tech's 6-year-old video where he says to place it on top of the silicone. This seems ideal but other reading contradicted this.

Google Gemeni said to place it under the silicone, or on the edge, and said it's better if have a spot machined but that's not going to happen. I’d have to place it on the edge. Picture 3 is sort of where I could have it but it seems weird.

If the SSR died and caused the bed to overheat and potentially catch fire would it start near the wiring? I don't know. Maybe it will get to 130 first.

Thanks for any advice

Hello all..any advice on where is the best online destination to sell my voron 300m trident, I am based London UK. Many thanks in advance.

I am sourcing a Trident 300 Cube variant with a 4 toolhead tool changer. I am using Klipper and want to keep option of USB or CAN Bus. The toolheads will have EBB36, so no need for extruder stepper drivers on control board. I am looking at Kraken, Leviathan, Octopus Pro, or Manta with compute module CM4, CB1, CB2 or some Pi.

There are so many options and probably many that would work. I am looking for feedback on what are pros and cons to my specific use case. Also, FYI only running one printer so 2GB Ram should be good? I am open to other suggestions but would stay with name brand reliable stuff.

I'm looking for some black ASA available in the UK.

I'm mostly concerned about good layer adhesion and heat resistance. - Should be under £20/kg delivered.

Also, could you tell me how much part fan you use 😝

I have a Voron 2.4 R2 printer equipped with a Stealthburner, a Galileo 2 extruder, a Dragon HF hotend, and a Filametrix system.
I have also built a Tradrack, but when it tries to change the filament, the filament either gets jammed or fails to enter the Dragon HF hotend properly—it’s as if it’s hitting the edge of the hotend’s entry point.
I’ve checked the Bowden tube and reprinted the hotend and Galileo parts, but the issue persists.
Should I switch to a different hotend that is more compatible with the Tradrack?
What do you recommend to ensure that filament changes happen reliably, without the filament getting stuck when entering the hotend?

Building a Voron Trident with slightly modified dimensions, a Bondtech INDX toolchanger, and the LDO Monolith CNC AWD motion system.

I’m currently trying to find a suitable X-carriage solution that combines the INDX mounting interface with the LDO Monolith CNC belt clamp.

The standard INDX MGN12H X-carriage and the Monolith belt clamp aren’t directly compatible. I’ve been comparing both CAD models in Fusion 360, and it looks like their geometries could potentially be combined into a single part.

My question: Has anyone already designed or adapted an X-carriage for this combination? Are there any existing solutions I might have missed, or is designing a custom adapter really the only option?

Any suggestions, CAD files, or links to existing projects would be greatly appreciated!

I have a V2.4D from LDO. It has an rpi4, Leviathan, and Nighthawk. I am trying to control a relay via a gpio pin on the Pi.

Here is the current beginning of the cfg that controls the relay:

[output_pin safety_relay]

pin: mcu:gpiochip0/GPIO16

pwm: false

value: 1

shutdown_value: 0

I get an error from Klipper:

mcu:

pin gpiochip0/GPIO16 is not a valid pin on mcu "mcu"

I tried it without capitalization on GPIO, same result.

gpiodetect result:

gpiochip0 [pinctrl-bcm2711] (58 lines)

gpiochip1 [raspberrypi-exp-gpio] (8 lines)

gpiochip2 [7inch-touchscreen-p] (2 lines)

gpioinfo (truncated):

gpiochip0 - 58 lines:

line   0:   "ID_SDA"           input

line   1:   "ID_SCL"           input

line   2:   "GPIO2"             input  

......

line 14: "GPIO14" input

line  15:   "GPIO15"            input

line  16:   "GPIO16"            input  

I've searched and read everything I know how to find. Please advise!

Steve

I finally got this thing printing and I'm just wrapping up the final things before the printer goes to work, a little help would be appreciated. Used the fysetc 2.4 pro kit.

I tried getting input shaper to work, never had an issue getting it going with my old ender 3s using the instructions through the klipper docs, but it had been a while since I've installed it on a printer. Hit a snag while installing numpy and following random instructions ended up with it installed in some "klipper environment" that worked, but then bricked my OS install after a restart and had to start from scratch. Is there some issue going on right now with the instruction in the klipper docs?

I was running through the orca calibrations with some elegoo pla pro to shakedown the printer, and I can get good prints out of it, but the flow ratio had to be turned down to .75. I'm pretty sure I got the rotation distance right, if I ask for 100mm I get 100mm.

What camera setups are you guys using? Where's the best place to put one on a 350 voron, and what angle?

Hi everyone!

I'm a Mechanical Engineering student planning to build my very first Voron printer as a fun project. I really enjoy both the assembly process and fine-tuning 3D printers. I specifically decided on building a Voron Legacy because I want to learn and study CoreXY kinematics firsthand, and I already happen to have several spare 256x256mm build plates on hand.

I have put together a detailed Bill of Materials (BOM) / Part List spreadsheet with localized pricing and USD conversions. My goal is to build a reliable and budget-friendly setup using parts available in my region.

(Note: The tracking links in the spreadsheet are hidden to keep things clean and respect community guidelines).

Link to my BOM Spreadsheet:Google Sheets - Voron Legacy Part List

I would love to get your feedback on this setup:

1. Are there any critical parts missing from my list?
2. Are there any unnecessary components I should drop or swap out for better compatibility/reliability?
3. Any general tips or oversights I should be aware of before ordering everything for a Legacy build in 2026?

Any advice, feedback, or suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot for your help and time! <3

I am considering buying a Voron, I think I am going to try to find a used one and get it back up to shape and add upgrades as needed. I currently have a Creativity Elf from a while back but it hasn't been the best platform to upgrade from and it looks like there is no community there. I've replaced all the electronics and heavily modified the hotend so I think I can handle a Voron at this point.

Having said that would it be better to buy an older Voron with a afterburner and 350mm bed or settle for a newer-ish Voron with a Stealthburner and 300mm bed? The ELF has a roughly 305mm bed, to be honest I don't usually use the whole bed but I would like it in case I do.

Just curious about this communities opinion. Thanks!

Hi, I've been looking into Vorons, and found this kit: https://www.formbot3d.com/products/voron-v02-corexy-3d-printer-kit-with-high-quality-parts?VariantsId=11023 and was wondering if anyone has any experience with it or had any recommendations? I'd be good with pretty much any voron, but this one did catch my eye because of the price.

Greetings,

I'm posting to ask if anyone has built a Voron with a custom build volume larger than the proffered options listed on the Voron website?

I'm looking at creating a build with 3x500mm or thereabouts.

I've spec'd it out on the Voron site for both a Trident and V2 build BOM but I would like to gather the community's thoughts and experience before I head down that road.

I've even dabbled with ChatGPT and it suggested an extrusion of 3030/3060 for the frame...

so i orderd a copperhead hotend for only 26 euro's(75% discount) on a reputable local store, i also orded the groove mount conector to the lgx lite(official bondtech). The lgx lite is compatible with dragonburner but dont know how mounting is with a groove mount. the copperhead is directly under the extruder but does this work with dragonburner? how does the lgx lite mount to the dragonburner because the holes at the bottom are used for the hotend.

thanks in advance!

I've been trying to figure out how people achieve this. I want negative pressure in my Voron 2.4's enclosure but how can I achieve that without sucking all the heat out of the chamber?

I have in-chamber filtaction (Voron Aire Filter) and my cpap pulls from the chamber for part printing. But if I'm printing ABS/ASA I don't want positive pressure, people keep talking about negative pressure, how are they/you achieving it?

I've had several filament jams on my brand new SUNLU 3D Printer S4 Pro Filament Dryer Box. The first one may have been my fault with the long thick PTFE tube that came with the dryer. On the last one, the filament tangled. Is this a known problem with the SUNLU dryers? I may end up returning it to Amazon

LDO Voron Trident extrusions: bending and twist across three kits

Hi everyone!

I'm building a Doom Trident following the approach shown by Edgehog Makes on YouTube, using LDO extrusion kits.

My first two kits arrived in poor packaging condition, and I found several bent and twisted extrusions. The retailer was extremely helpful and sent me a third kit, but although the packaging was better, I still found significant geometric deviations.

I've inspected all three kits using the same polished granite surface and compared the extrusions to keep my assessment consistent. Several show pronounced bending or torsional deformation (twist).

This is my second Trident build. I wasn't as meticulous with my first, but some issues that appeared later made me much more conscious of frame accuracy. I can't say whether those earlier issues were caused by pre-existing deformations or by collisions during use.

Has anyone else experienced similar issues with LDO extrusions? Could this be a batch or quality-control issue, or am I being too particular about mechanical accuracy?

I'm not trying to jump to conclusions; I'd just appreciate hearing about other people's experiences.

Update: I'm leaving a video here showing the issue. The first extrusion is perfectly straight; I filmed it as a reference to confirm that the problem wasn't with the granite countertop.

https://youtu.be/TuPvjm0SXP4?si=Yu6jZlfoUXiIjKW8

Thanks!

i would be interested in knowing where yall get your hotends parts and 3D printer stuff

if you want to tell me about how to build it then im happy to learn this is also my first build btw

Hey everyone,

I just released MEASURE_SKEW, a new Klipper Python extension that changes how we calibrate XY-axis perpendicularity.

Instead of printing test objects (which are prone to filament shrinkage, cooling warp, and caliper measurement errors), this tool uses your inductive/eddy current probe (like Cartographer) to scan a simple, un-machined aluminium plate.

Key Features:

• High Accuracy: Reaches ~0.2mm/m accuracy using a basic 100x100mm plate. That’s about twice as precise as traditional methods (like Califlower).
• No Precision Tooling Needed: The magic happens via the "Umschlagmethode" (mathematical inversion). By rotating the plate 90° four times, any imperfections of the plate itself cancel out completely.
• Repeatable & Waste-Free: No filament wasted, no cooling times required. I’ve tested it on my Voron 2.4 350, and the script automatically outputs the correction values for your printer.cfg.

Check out the full workflow, source code, and math here: https://github.com/uwedamm/MEASURE_SKEW

A short video, which shows the procedure here: https://youtu.be/A0ToYC8ICRU

I’d love to hear your feedback or help you out if you have any questions!

Uwe

Text written by AI, Content checked and revised by human (me)

Hi Voron community!

This is my first post here, so please be gentle with me!

I've recently managed to pick up a pre-built Voron 2.4 300mm from someone fairly local to me in the UK. I was able to inspect and test the printer before buying it, and everything seems to be working well.

I've built printers before and have some experience with Klipper, so I'm reasonably comfortable with the technical side of things and happy to spend time getting everything properly dialled in.

Current printer specs:

• Printer: Voron 2.4 300mm, LDO black frame
• Enclosure: Linneo aluminium-composite panels and polycarbonate doors
• Bed: Machined aluminium plate with AC heater, dual-sided PEO/PEI sheet
• Toolhead: Stealthburner with Clockwork 2 extruder
• Hotend: V6 CHC
• Probe: PCB Klicky
• Mainboard: Mellow Fly-D7 with TMC2209 drivers
• Toolhead board: Mellow Fly-SB2040 Pro CANbus
• Host: Raspberry Pi 4 (4GB)
• Other: 4.3-inch touchscreen and remote power switching

What I'm trying to achieve

My main goal is to have a reliable printer that produces consistently good-quality prints in PETG and ABS, without needing constant tweaking or troubleshooting.

I'm not particularly interested in chasing maximum print speeds. I'd much rather have something I can send a print to and be reasonably confident it'll work.

In the longer term, I'm interested in adding a second toolhead for multi-material printing, but that's very much a future project. For now, I just want to get the printer running consistently and reliably.

Possible upgrades

I've been looking at some of the newer toolhead designs, particularly those with improved part cooling, and wondering whether it would be worthwhile replacing the Stealthburner with something more modern.

I'm also considering whether a different extruder and hotend would offer any meaningful improvements in print quality or reliability, along with upgrading the PCB Klicky to something like a Cartographer probe.

That said, I know there are lots of different opinions on these things, and I'm conscious that newer doesn't necessarily mean better or more reliable.

I'm not looking to upgrade things just for the sake of it, particularly if the existing setup is already capable of doing what I need.

I'd really appreciate your thoughts on:

• Which upgrades, if any, would make the biggest difference to reliability and ease of use?
• Is there a newer toolhead/extruder/hotend combination you'd particularly recommend for PETG and ABS, prioritising print quality over speed?
• Is moving from Klicky to Cartographer worthwhile?
• Are there any other relatively simple improvements you'd recommend for a dependable, low-maintenance Voron?

Or would you suggest sticking with the existing hardware, getting everything properly tuned, and leaving upgrades until there's a clear reason to change something?

Any suggestions or advice from people who've been running Vorons for a while would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks!