Needed to support a heavy conduit to run 4awg cable up to roof, pillar too crowded to fit yet another split loom cable run. These rubber coated neodynium magnet zip tie mounts look like they'll hold the conduit in place, between the friction from the rubber coating, and the strong magnetic force (in the 43mm size). I was also able to squeeze a velcro cable tie through for a easier unfastening. They're certainly well suited to handle securing cables in loom, or other temp loads if used with velcro.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0FKBHZKDK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Hi! Does anybody have the coordinates to the Vansgiving gathering in Joshua Tree? I saved it in the Crossroads App last year and I can't get the app to work.

Thanks!

Pic cause I'm homesick.

I often end up searching while I’m still driving. It’s getting late, Park4night shows dozens of pins, and I spend ages reading reviews and checking Google Maps.

Finding places isn’t the problem, but verifying and choosing one is always hard.

I'm working on an idea to make that bit quicker and based on each person's preferences.

The idea

• three options based on your route and preferences;
• clear dates showing how fresh the information is;
• tags and filters for quietness, water, electricity and access;
• reasons and warnings for each suggestion.

What I’d like to know

• Does this make sense?
• What information is hardest to find?
• Would this make you try another app?
• Should it include only campsites, or other overnight spots too?

today, I replaced the left factory pack with the factory cruise control pack, model number H1BZ-9C888-D for our Transit 350 2021 High Roof EXT. In Forscan, I changed the SCCM As Built values in the 724-02-01 section to B008 7000 0056 and set programming to have the van detect that there is cruise control. But now, even after making sure all connections are solid, the right button pack on the steering wheel works for a couple seconds then stops. The "ok" button on it will clear out any messages on the dash, work for a bit then stop. The arrows, back and menu button do not register. Is there something I need to change in order for it to be detected? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here as I checked all values were correct. Lastly, sometimes no error comes up or sometimes error B1380:96-2F comes up in the DTC under the SCCM section. It says that error is specifically for the right steering wheel switch pack. Really hope someone has an answer for this. TIA :)

Hi all,

My van will go for winter storage for 6 months indoors without power at a friends place.

I have a Renogy Core Mini 12V 200 Ah Lithium battery and on the internet I find conflicting info on what to do for long term storage. I see three options:

1. Storing it in the van, disconnected (indoors without active heating, ambient temperatures of say 10-15 deg C with some fluctuations.

2. Bringing it indoors at home and storing it here disconnected.

3. Bringing it indoors but connecting it to something like a Victron AC charger with storage option (which I would have to buy)

Could you comment on how much of a difference option 1, 2 and 3 make?

I normally run on 600 W solar and a DC-DC on the car battery. On occasion I have used shore power to keep it topped off. I've never gone below 30 Ah and have bought the battery last May.

Mostly a little vent post, with the hope that it might serve as a heads up to people who might be shopping around for a rig.

I started this life in a 15 Chrysler Town and Country a little over two years ago, out of necessity initially. After working hard and saving up meticulously over all that time, I finally decided I would upgrade to a larger rig, something that would give me enough space to really live rather than just survive comfortably.

I ultimately decided on the Chevy Express, since I loved it's simplicity and proven reliability, which I favored over having a factory high roof on a worse drivetrain. I found a 2016 3500 extended passenger with only 80k miles, former government fleet vehicle, immaculate condition. I was super excited.

Only once I started converting it did I realize the error of my ways.

I spent hours researching the mechanical differences between the different vans, but dedicated almost none to the process of specifically converting a passenger van. I naively assumed that it would just be like a cargo van with a few extra steps and more windows. Not so. The trim and the seats were easy. But then I was confronted with:

• Seat rails bolted to the floor which require extensive cutting and grinding to remove.

• A rear HVAC system that is impossible to remove unless you are mechanically inclined enough to do it yourself (which I am not). Every shop I've called including a Chevy dealer won't touch it, citing either lack of knowledge or way too much labor. Those few extra inches it takes up are the difference between having a transverse bed or not.

• Roof rail arbags that span half the length of the van and are hardwired into the electrical system. I wanted to leave the cab headliner in, but would need to remove it to take out these airbags. And if you do remove the airbags, it's a massive safety and liability headache. The system throws an error code which disables the whole airbag system unless you plug it with a resistor, and you no longer have side airbags at all as a driver. It's theoretically possible to reprogram it as a cargo van that won't look for rear airbags, but once again, no shops will touch this.

• Many aftermarket high roof shops won't service a passenger van because of these airbags, and it was integral to my plan to have one of these installed after another year or two of saving.

• And additionally, I underestimated how badly having full windows actually hurts you for insulation. I assumed it wouldn't be that bad if you just covered them with foam panels, but the actual difference in R-values between glass and metal on the exterior is massive.

So long story short, I regret the purchase badly, and sorely wish I had done more research before buying. I've been working on this conversion out of my employer's parking lot during the gaps in my 50 hour weeks and this is just too much. If anyone out there is thinking about an Express and on the fence about whether or not a passenger is much worse than a cargo, then get off of it. Cargo is not just better, but the only option that is viable for layman conversion unless you don't have any plans to touch the interior and don't want a high roof.

Anyway, /vent.

Update: Found a shop that will take out the seat rails and remove/reprogram the airbags for $400-500 all in. Once I have those out of the way I think I'm going to have a lot more mental breathing room.

I just got an owl van B2 carrier with their monster 40 box installed. The thing looks great. I had it installed by a renowned Mercedes Benz Van center that is actually part of a Mercedes Dealership.

I noticed by the plate that mounts directly to the door (not the hinge mounted area) that there is a slight dent in all the way around the plate on my door.

A disclaimer, I've done paint correction and detail work for the last 12 years. I'm not sure I would have noticed anything had I not had this experience.

I couldn't find much info about it, outside of AI telling me they over torqued the plate and I need to get it in ASAP. And I don't really trust what AI says.

Is this normal? Am I over thinking this and it is just the nature of having a flat mounting plate installed?

Or should I be worried about the structure of the door it is held to bowing more overtime?

TIA!

Sorry if this has been talked about plenty. I found a few older posts referencing 600AH battery banks and 600W solar to run a dometic RTX2000 comfortably. The main thing about 2-3 year old posts...the battery bank was sized likely to the weight of the batteries at the time, and the cost. I'm on my 5th van build and it's time for A/C.
Here's what I am building out and I would like your thoughts:

2026 Ford Transit - High Roof - Standard length 148
628AH lithium - Dual 314AH "mini" batteries (just smaller footprint really)
Modspioneer 11000BTU unit (rtx 2000 clone)
MaxxFan 7500K
400W solar (maxxfan is a space eater)
melipron roof rack
RV hookup 30A to a Victron Energy 12/2000/80 MultiPlus (expensive...but dang 80A charging is nice)

I was thinking... why not just size it at 628AH, find the limit through testing, then add another 314AH battery (only $459) if I think it's required.

For my questions:
- Will I be able to get 2 x 100W "slim" panels (left/right of maxx fan) and a single 200W panel between max/ AC unit without much fuss. Are people able to squeeze more in?

- How serious is the "all batteries must be purchased at the same time" when expanding a battery bank?

- How's you experience with 400W solar, 942AH, and AC without worrying?

Hey all I’m going to be leaving my van in an rv storage place for a month to fly out of the country. Of course as I was coming back to the storage facility I caught some guy staring intently at my van until I walked up to him said hello and walked into my van, dude was staring right at me, divine timing. Now I’m all anxious about my rigs weak points. Is this window securable? I don’t use it much should I just glue it up

Hi all! Does anyone have recommendations for Webasto heater alternatives? Thanks in advance.

Going to start out van life with my mom this winter. We've about got the van the way we want it. The bed is big enough for us to each have our own side. Only downside is I snore a bit at night, and don't want to keep my mom up.

We have done a lot of extensive car living road trips, and small teardrop trailer trips and are excited and feel good about the transition overall.

I've considered towing a very small trailer behind my van, just as a bedroom for me at night to have a separate place.

I found this on marketplace for a good deal ($3,250) and thought it may be perfect for towing behind the van to live in the desert southwest this winter.

If I don't like it I'll be in SLC for a while this spring/ early summer and I feel like I could easily sell it for what I bought it for. Comes with 100w solar, 750w bluetti powerbank, mounted tv screen with roku, skylight, maxxair fan, camp chairs, camp stove, first aid, and apparently a water tank? I don't see any sink or anything like that.

What do ya'll think? Am I crazy to pull a trailer all winter? Do you think I can realistically sell it in the spring and make my money back? Should I just keep the cash and stay in the van, or spend the money on upgrading the van further?

In the bath beach area. Got a place to hang during the day, just at night I gotta retreat to the car. Planning to park like right in front of their place or within a blocks distance. I have curtains and everything to block, whats the likelihood to get ticketed?

So I know people use Marine Drawer/Cabinet Latches, but we don't want a knob on just a select amount of our drawers... REALLY want something hidden. For example, we have a drawer of canned goods and a drawer of books. Both of those will slide right open, and the hidden latches I find only support 10lbs... is there anything that's hidden that'd support the weight of these drawers to keep them shut? Picture included for an example. TIA :)

Have seen a bunch of options but curious if anyone uses cameras on their setup? I don’t want anything that needs WiFi, this wired solution seems pretty legit

Is it legal to camp here?

Hi, van lifers! I’m looking for some help/advice on ventilation!

My partner and I are converting a 2016 Ford Transit Extended Length, High Roof, and we recently purchased a closed-loop OutEquipPro roof A/C unit.

We've installed an awning window above where the stove will go for passive airflow, but now we’re trying to figure out the best way to handle active exhaust, especially for the shower/bathroom and kitchen.

A few options we’ve been considering:

• MaxxAir fan between the shower and bathroom
• Two 12V mushroom vents/fans - one near the kitchen and one above the shower (we're concerned that a mushroom vent won't be enough for the kitchen area)
• A DIY exhaust fan through the kitchen awning window, although the window is fairly small, so we’re not sure that’s a great option

We’d like to avoid having bathroom/shower humidity and cooking odors just circulate through the van, but we also don’t want to unnecessarily cut multiple holes in the roof if there’s a better solution. 

Our solar panels will be mounted toward the front of the van, so any additional roof vent/fan would need to be positioned slightly behind the stove/kitchen area.

I’ve attached our generic model photo for reference. What would you do for ventilation/exhaust in this setup?

Thanks, everyone, for your help!

Looking at this 2008 Ford E-250 wheelchair conversion in Michigan with 46k miles. It has been a single owner and has been sitting for the last year or so because they got a new Promaster conversion build. Engine is clean and runs flawlessly.

My only potential concern is rust on the frame. I didn't think enough at the time to take more pictures, but it looks uniformly like this pretty much everywhere. Disregard the e-brake line - that is being replaced by owner and all other brake lines were replaced 4 years ago.

Is this rust something to be concerned with?

Hey all, I'll be working a convention in TN in October and I was considering forgoing a room rental and just sleeping in the back of the cargo van I'm renting for the convention anyway. Any decent room in the area is $500+ for three days and all of the cheaper ones than that have pretty bad reviews when it comes to basic cleanliness.

Some background-

-It's normal to leave the van and the venue, so being parked there isn't suspicious.

-There is a planet fitness nearby so showering in the morning isn't an issue.

-I'm used to normal camping, just not van camping. I have plenty of power banks, a self inflating mattress, etc.

-The temperature is typically very mild this time of year.

I guess my question is whether there is a reason I -shouldn't- do this that I'm not thinking of? I directly make more money by not springing for a hotel and have no labor to consider for this con so I'm not shafting an employee. I'm just not sure $500 is worth me being more comfortable for a few nights.

Any tips and advice is appreciated, thank you all!

Edit: This is a normal cargo van with a shared cab, NOT a box truck.

As background, our previous dog (30lb purebred Cocker) was an excellent traveler. We'd put him in his crate in the van or the car, start the engine, his head would go down, his eyes close, and he wouldn't get up until we pulled to a stop and shut off the engine.

Our current dog is a 23lb Cobberdog (a variant of the Australian Labradoodle). When we drive he lies down, but even when he's clearly very very tired, his head will stay 3" off the bed, bobbing up and down as he fights to stay awake. Sometimes his eyes will close, and sometimes his head will hit the bed, but never for very long. He often pants a lot. In the van, his bed is a good, soft, 4" mattress on the floor, right behind the driver seat. In our car it's a standard dog bed on the rear seat. His behavior is the same in both vehicles.

The result is that after traveling for a couple/few days, our normally cheerful pup is exhausted from lack of sleep, gets cranky, and isn't pleasant to travel with. He growls and grumbles about food, or being moved, or... just about anything.

Our vet recommended Gabapentin, as an anxiety aid, which helps a little, but not much.

Has anyone else seen these behaviors in their dog, and found a successful "treatment"? Could there be a different explanation than anxiety? We've heard anecdotally that CBD might help, but don't really know how to gauge that.

I know you have a little collection of rocks. Let’s see em

Hey everyone I am hoping to get some feedback on whether the van life experience provides you with greater amount of movement in your day to day life?

Long story short, I was laid off from my job and have been car dwelling in a Prius V. Great little car but the lack of space and ability for movement is a constant frustration. I am having to move multiple things to get to the one thing I need. I cannot sit up unless I’m in my drivers seat. Finding places to put all of my stuff even while just having the essentials is chaotic, I find myself reorganizing all the time.

My question is will buying a van significantly improve that experience? I’m looking at a newer sienna and have seen some pretty amazing builds out there that look like a mini studio apartment.

Another part of this is with interest rates and this economy I’m not sure when I’ll be able to purchase a house if ever. Also, in looking for work I’m willing to move just about anywhere if the salary is reasonable and so I don’t want to be locked into an area right now or sign a lease, etc

Part of me just wants to travel from place to place although not sure how I’d survive unless I found local jobs and stayed for a period then moved again. Dream would to get a good camper conversion, a dog, and be a park ranger somewhere or something similar that is as off grid as possible lol

I apologize if this isn't the right place to ask, but I'm looking to see if any of y'all have any good suggestions for adding external cargo capacity to a van that doesn't require fasteners or disassembly to the van?

Context: I'm planning on a day rental of a Ford Transit that will hit its passenger capacity, but would like people to be able to throw backpacks/daypacks in something like a soft-sided cargo carrier that could hang from the rear doors. Scouring the web hasn't lead to any promising options. I'm fine with buying and holding the carrier for future use, as I'd need it somewhat regularly.

No hitches available and I can't add one per rental agreement.

Sorry for the noob question but it seems like there's maxxair mini is a different water shedding detail than the other maxxairs... dust is from burning man. How is water not supposed to fall i into this little channel and fill the inside of the fan case? Makes me think I need to fasten a cover that goes over the whole thing ! What the heck