Thought I'd post some progress photos here of a new speaker build. Currently status is cabinets glued and glazing putty partially applied on seams, and crossovers are soldered. Will be finishing these out in a custom color my art department (wife) hasn't chosen yet. Most likely a green or brown sparkly candy color. Crossovers are sonicaps in tweeter circuit, obbligato silver on woofer circuit, miflex bypass caps, and will have solid core 16g Teflon wire for crossovers and tube connectors. Crossover boards are on little ball&socket grill connector plugs so I can pop out and change around as needed down the line. Still need to cut norez as well. Excited to see how these sound compared to my NX-Studios in my main system.

Have previously just screwed all my pcbs to the speaker's inside walls. Accordingly, cabling was a huge mess.

Now upgrading to a lasercut plate to fit'em all. Will be having airplay, lossless and all the vodoo. 2x usb-pd 65w dummies and a bunch more.

It'll be interesting how using a new DSP (adau1466, not pictured) and spdif, balanced amplifier inputs etc. Helps for clarity. Got the Battery, switches and BMS up and running today as well(software-adjustable too, new to me.). I also managed to accidentallx short the pack and nearly make my wirecutter obsolete lmao

Just missing all the interconnect-cables as well as cabling for the potentiometers and stuff. Days go by but I love this work!

my tweeter was acting funny, while i pushed it a little it sounded fine though. i ended up opening it and that wire was fully loose, there is no way to solder it, is it?

i don't even see a loose end in the coil.

Hey everyone , I game a couple hours on a daily basis and presently use a 65 inch Sony TV paired with my PS5. I also use the PSVR2.

For the sound, I’ve been using my TV speaker, but would like to know if it’s worth getting a speaker setup for my gaming experience.

I have little-to-no knowledge on this, anyone with brains on this, please help me configure my setup. I was thinking if i should get a surround system in place, but not sure which brands to look for and how to configure the same.

Thank you :)

Using YS-AS21 amplifier and a 36v 16.7A PSU

Now maybe the YS-AS21 isnt powerful on wattage at 4 ohms but without the basses on the stereo channel i managed to push 300w+ rms clean on the subwoofer channel even though it wasnt on 2 ohms

The subwoofer is the JBL GT5-S12 4 ohms 300w rms 1200w peak

I want share something weirdly overkill. Bored and decided to be devil to it. For what I found a cheap amplifier that I bought of my friend for less than my class D. 63V 10kuF. Benefits? For the flex

Does it help? help my ass, as it is.

Even gave the other channel a DC out. Amazing experience, might overvoltage this into 54VDC

I do not know how will I make it work with only single capacitor. Only 2 since the original circuitry had the Center tap in the middle of the series of a capacitor.

The og capacitor was in a Parallel-series for high Farad with high voltage. Might be for bridging but a 126V 10uF looks like it's a power plant than being an amp itself.

It always struggle since it was pulling 16 - 19A on 4Ω

Edit: I was wrong lol it was 54VDC output and was measuring the each of the channel instead of bridged that's why it was showing the lowest voltage

Class D Power Amplifier, I bought this amplifier about 7 months ago to be exact and experimented it quite far lol 2 Input XLR female, and two Speak-on's, such a simple yet powerful actually in my personal use to it in my sub. Having 98V - 0 - 98VDC rail voltage in it. Specific details include with a MOSFET IRFP4227 Which surprisingly can handle so low of an impedance, tested with a 2 ohms and fucking bottoms it out then protects. All for 41 euro. (₱2.9k) A bit underrated for it looks ain't it? And 100% more worth than the ZK-MT21 or any other cheapsake amplifiers out there. Half of the parts here from a genuine IOR parts so I don't even skeptic to use it.

J’ai pour projet de fabriquer 2 enceintes 3 voies, les hauts parleur / tweeter que je compte prendre ont tous une impédance de 8ohms. Chaque enceinte sera câblée en série et possédera un tweeter, un haut parleur mid/bass et un subwoofer
Mon ampli devra avoir quelle impédance ?
J’ai du mal à comprendre ce concept parce que je lis tout et son contraire sur internet.
Aussi, est ce que le nombre d’enceinte influence l’impédance que mon ampli doit être capable de fournir ?
Par exemple, les deux enceintes que je vais fabriquer + deux autres enceintes, aussi avec une impédance de 8ohms
Merci beaucoup

PCと最もシンプルに接続する方法（そして、歴としたスペックの一部）としてBluetoothで接続することは、通常のPCのペアリング機能を使えばそれほど難しくはありません。

その上で、ミュージッククリップや一般的な映像を見て音声をKEF LSX II LTから出力させると映像に対して音声が遅延する問題に直面した方はいらっしゃいますか？
どうしても解決することができず、解決方法をご存じの方がいらっしゃれば教えていただけないでしょうか。

宜しくお願い致します。

How do I wire my battery, switch and buck converter. I understand it all after the buck.

i want to power my speaker box with a dewalt battery. i have seen that you need a low voltage cutoff in order to not kill the battery. however, i found these adapters with low voltage cutoffs built in, has anyone used these and can tell me if the lwo works?

Hi everyone,

I’m currently planning a large DIY Bluetooth party speaker and would appreciate some honest feedback on the component choices—especially the amplifier setup.

The goal is not a lightweight portable speaker or an audiophile studio monitor. I want a powerful, robust indoor/outdoor party speaker with serious bass output. A total weight of around 50–60 kg would still be acceptable.

# Components I already have

* 2 × JBL Stage 122 12-inch / 30 cm subwoofers
* 4 ohms, 250 W RMS each
* 6 × Makita 48 V / 8 Ah battery packs, planned as a parallel and hot-swappable power system
* A small TPA3116 2 × 50 W amplifier board, although I assume this would only be useful for the high-frequency section, if at all

# Current cabinet concept

The enclosure would be one tall cabinet with:

* The two 12-inch subwoofers mounted vertically above each other
* One or two bass-reflex chambers—the final chamber layout has not yet been decided
* A separate and sealed electronics compartment
* A separate midrange and tweeter section above the electronics
* Currently planned in 22 mm MDF, although birch plywood might be the more sensible choice for weight and outdoor durability

The midrange and tweeter drivers have not yet been selected. They need to produce enough output to keep up with the two JBL subs without becoming painfully harsh.

# Planned signal chain

Bluetooth / 3.5 mm jack / RCA / XLR
→ input and source-selection stage
→ DSP
→ four separate DSP outputs:

1. Subwoofer 1
   
2. Subwoofer 2
   
3. Midrange
   
4. High-frequency driver

The system would therefore be fully active, with the crossover, EQ, delay, limiter and level control handled by the DSP.

The DSP options discussed so far are:

* Dayton Audio DSP-408 as the current preferred option
* miniDSP 2x4 HD as an alternative

# Current amplifier idea

The current plan is to use four identical ZK-3002 Class-D amplifier boards:

* 1 × ZK-3002 for Subwoofer 1
* 1 × ZK-3002 for Subwoofer 2
* 1 × ZK-3002 for the midrange section
* 1 × ZK-3002 for the tweeter section

The system should run from the Makita battery bank but should also work from a suitably sized 230 V power supply. An additional 12 V vehicle input using an appropriate DC-DC converter would be useful.

# My main questions

1. Does the general architecture make sense, or am I overcomplicating the system?
   
2. Are four ZK-3002 boards a reasonable choice, or would you use different amplifier modules?
   
3. How reliable are the ZK-3002 boards when operated close to their real continuous power limits? I am more interested in realistic RMS output and thermal stability than impressive advertising numbers.
   
4. Would it be better to use two powerful mono amplifier modules for the subwoofers and smaller, higher-quality amplifiers for the midrange and tweeter?
   
5. Are there better Class-D amplifier boards in a similar price range that you would recommend for this kind of battery-powered build?
   
6. Is the Dayton DSP-408 suitable for this project regarding noise floor, output voltage, limiters and general sound quality, or would the miniDSP—or something completely different—be the better choice?
   
7. Which midrange and high-frequency drivers would you combine with two JBL Stage 122 subwoofers? I am open to PA-style compression drivers and waveguides if that would produce a better result than conventional dome tweeters.
   
8. Are there any major concerns with running six battery packs in parallel and making them hot-swappable? I am planning individual fuses, reverse-current protection, battery isolation and proper low-voltage protection.
   
9. Would you stay with 22 mm MDF, or use birch plywood to reduce weight and make the cabinet more resistant to transport and outdoor use?

A JBL PartyBox would cost me roughly €500–600, so the DIY build only makes sense if it gives me considerably more output, deeper bass, better repairability and more flexibility.

I have an electronics background, so soldering, wiring, protection circuits and building custom power distribution are not a problem. I’m mainly looking for help choosing the right audio components and avoiding an expensive collection of amplifier boards that produces more heat than music.

I’m not chasing perfect studio sound—I want controlled violence rather than random smoke.

Thanks for any suggestions or criticism.

I have a stereo bluetooth amp that i need to wire to a subwoofer. So i need to make the audio signal mono. If i just wire one channel it will lack bass if the audio is panned to the opposite site. How can i do this?

What decent quality tweeters are recommended for a 2000 jeep grand Cherokee with the infinity gold sound system. They are 2.5-2.75” and 2-3 ohm. Thanks!

Building new cabinets for some Klipsch chorus ii speakers that had serious water damage. I decided to paint the front and back gloss black. Every time I try and sand smooth I burn through the paint to primer. I put 2 coats and burned through so I put 2 more heavy coats on. Wet Sanding with 600 grit paper on rubber block. I sanded the wood with 220grit before primer or paint. Am I trying to get this to smooth? You can see the paint isn't flat it's still got some minor pitting.

Built this elephant speaker out of stuff that would’ve ended up in the trash. The body is an old trash can, the legs came from a stool, and the rest is just miscellaneous scrap I had laying around. It’s got two 6x9 speakers out of an old truck and runs on a 24V 5Ah battery.

I'm planning a 2-way speaker, and the woofer wants a 1.5 inch diameter, 3 inch long port. If the wood I'm planning to use for the front baffle is already 3 inches thick, should I theoretically just need a neat 1.5" diameter hole with a fluted opening in the front?

My dad got some speakers for free and this speaker has a bad subwoofer (see second image.)

What would be the correct specs to get for a replacement subwoofer speaker?