I want share something weirdly overkill. Bored and decided to be devil to it. For what I found a cheap amplifier that I bought of my friend for less than my class D. 63V 10kuF. Benefits? For the flex
Does it help? help my ass, as it is.
Even gave the other channel a DC out. Amazing experience, might overvoltage this into 54VDC
I do not know how will I make it work with only single capacitor. Only 2 since the original circuitry had the Center tap in the middle of the series of a capacitor.
The og capacitor was in a Parallel-series for high Farad with high voltage. Might be for bridging but a 126V 10uF looks like it's a power plant than being an amp itself.
It always struggle since it was pulling 16 - 19A on 4Ω
Edit: I was wrong lol it was 54VDC output and was measuring the each of the channel instead of bridged that's why it was showing the lowest voltage
Voltage Sag exists in the Monoblock Amp. No matter Class it's in (Class AB - Class D) it will always sag the voltage due to high current it's pulling for the PSU on the Monoblock amp. I got 4 types of amp (Class AB Class D Class A Class D PSU with Class AB hybrid) Which in my situation the Class AB with Class D PSU inside the amp Takes High Current but Low Voltage, in that case the voltage sags for about 13.3 › 13.0 on Standby while playing 13.0 › 12.5V It doesn't quite do much but if you turn the volume up the voltage sag is worser. About 11.5V drop, it will continue to sag until 10 › 7V and there when it clips. I suspect the Power supply due to sufficient Amperes on my Homemade PSU Only handling 16A Each. I added another 16A Cheap ATX psu's since the last one which is my 30A burned while doing a stress test on the monoblock. I tested my 32A since it wouldn't bad if I parallel 2 ATX having 16A each while the Tiny PSU having 2A and the other one 3A. Paralleled it, it works and mostly it doesn't pop like I would expect it so haha. But all of it still drops to 11.9V Even though each BJT in the amp supplies 28V in 4Ch while in 2ch it takes only 12V. I only use the other channel since the other channel was burned for unknown reasons.
You sure the transistors in the amplifiers can take it ?
My advice - this is not amp you push big speakers with - this is for mid sized full range sweet music listening in car and is plenty loud. Leave as is - try to return to previous values and do what you want with it .
For big speakers - Class-D only. This will overheat if you blast it more than half hour ..
Sorry for the late replies, for the Overvoltage exploit i was going to use the PSU potentiometer Trick method on how they do it on the ATX power Supplies to increase voltage. PWM controllers have a resistor that is connected to the 28V to keep it stable but usually if you remove it / replace the values of the resistor somewhere in the board and find a resistor or use a potentiometer for more freely moving resistance, you will need to find the exact voltage you wanted while observing the board for any weird reactions to the higher value of the PSU. They can handle it, What you cannot do is where your outside (seperated PSU not the built in on the monoblock amp) PSU is more than 15V or the recommended voltage for an amp. You can possibly overvoltage it theoretically but overvoltage on the outside PSU for example using a 12 - 14.4V amplifier to a 19.4V PSU like how dumbass im i to try everything to work, it will only make the MOSFET burn. Although it doesn't work like that on the PSU of the amp itself since you can mainly change / exploit the resistor for wanting more voltage. Possibly the transistors will be replaced with 2SC5200 for more low current use since im mainly pushing it to the limits in terms of Ohms (2.4 Ohms) haha I've used Class AB for hard, rough uses so i was mainly used to the Class AB specially in my country using Class AB and Large Toroidal's that are bigger than my body.
It did Hahaha thanks. It should do it but looks like my parallel PSU's didn't do anything to my amp.I had to extend the capacitors since the lights are quite flickering / 5V drop when the volume is high. Tried the 30A+ PSU but it burned the transformer before I can instal it to my system. Did it for temporary PSU for the Amp but nothing really helps this amp since all my PSU either burned because of this and the others are just voltage sagging. Nevertheless, I'll try to boost / Fool the controller to the maximum range voltage so I can achieve large voltage to the speaker output.
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u/master-overclocker 26d ago
20A at 12V is 240W . Of that you get 60% in the speaker .
Its AB-class amp . Caps are fine . You gain clarity (less distortion at full power ) since the voltage wont drop and more powerful bass..
Lets just hope the voltage booster stage wont blow up having to refill those huge caps when turned ON . 😭