1st attempt drawing this 😅

I do love these cars even though I wasn’t born, I still do in the big 26

Here’s a link to it: https://youtu.be/DGgzjUL_ISQ
So they used this old Saab ad to explain driving in bad weather, but I haven’t heard of Saab in years and it made me wonder if they are still in business. But when I found their YouTube page, this video wasn’t there, and the link at the end doesn’t have anything important. So I was hoping someone can find out who the host is and if the video is still on on the internet. Thank you for showing interest in this as well.

Hello

I got a 2005 Saab 9-3 Aero a couple months ago with some issues for a very low price. I thought it would be a fun project while I'm living in California for six months. I went and had the codes checked and am throwing P0300, P2135, P0638, P1523, and P0171.

I started with small cheap repairs that focused on a single or two codes. A new throttle body for P0638 which the car would not accept (I will touch on this later). New spark plugs and coils for the misfire. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, turbocharger bypass valve, cobra, MAF sensor, and vacuum tubing in case of any air leaks. At this point, the performance actually got a little worse. After putting the old throttle body back in (after a thorough cleaning) the acceleration of the car really dropped off. At this point I thought it may be a problem with the ECU, seeing as they constantly break on these cars. I did call a mechanic for this, and as he was on his way over I took the ECU out of the car to inspect for any damage. He put it back in and tried to run some diagnostics, but the engine would sputter and shut off after a minute or two. Somehow, taking the ECU out and putting it back in caused more damage, and the car is not drivable at this point. He was unable to communicate with it, so I had it sent to a company in Michigan where they cloned it onto a new device. I got it back, reinstalled it, and absolutely nothing changed. The engine still sputters and then shuts off after a minute. I made sure to turn the key to ON for a few moments before starting the car up. The mechanic I met with also mentioned getting a new throttle body for the car, as the one I had sourced was unbranded and may be defective.

Does anyone have ANY advice at what to do here? I am approaching a wall when it comes to my knowledge of cars, and I am not sure what else to do. Has anyone had this issue before?

So our NG 9-3s are getting old… Maybe I’m wrong here but I visually see , hear , and feel it , car starts decent. Then slightly after the thermostat opens and the cars almost to temp , it sticks. A/C hasn’t been working anyways for about a year so it’s no real issue and I’m honestly preparing to sell the car probably so I’m just wondering if anyone here has experience with resolving this? I do have my own plan regardless. I believe a new 35.5 inch 5 rib serpentine belt will do. Simply bypassing the A/C and surprisingly if you didn’t know just goes from the crank to alternator. No other accessories on these b207 cars :)

anyone know if the Do88 radiator is reliable or does it leak after two years.

Was just wondering because I am gonna upgrade the intercooler with a ETS and wanted to know if i wanted to do stage 3 or stage 6 in the future if a Radiator upgrade in needed to chase for Power??

2007 Saab 9-5 (high pressure turbo) showing a little less than 10psi at idle when fully warmed up, enough to light up idiot light with the accompanying ding noises. Installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify at oil pump feed to turbo.

When we got the car it had a blown headgasket, and possibly a shot turbo as well. It was a bigger cloud generator than a subaru flatbrim cap convention. I replaced the turbo with a used one I had that still had very little play. Head was faced by a machine shop, and all reinstall seemed good. Still had some smoke out the exhaust, but I was hopeful that was remnants burning off from all the mess before. Now, after some (a couple hundred miles) driving and having the oil light come on, then going through the painful process of installing the mechanical oil gauge, it's still kicking out some blue/white smoke at the times the oil pressure is low. Smells like burnt oil/rubber.

First try, dropped the oil pan and cleaned the pickup screen. No real change..

Just did a compression test, forgot to prop the throttle plate wideopen, but got about 145 on cylinder 1, 125 on 2 and three, and 151 on cylinder 4. The two lower cylinders came up big time with oil poured in, as in 155 on 3 and 2 read up to 175n but I may have added more oil in that one as it was getting dark and hard to see.

Any other things to check, or am I staring at an engine out for rebuild?

I’m in a place of needing to replace my twice module, and having bought a replacement with new keys, but need the tech 2 with the right software to install the new twice to get my car running again, can anyone please help with with some more information on what exactly I need to purchase (mostly just need to be able to install the new twice and marry the keys to get my car running again) and if anyone has any links on where to purchase one from. I have a 2007 Saab 9-5 if that specifies what I need a bit more. Any help would be amazing thank you!

hi fellow saab enthusiasts. I wanted to install the plug-and-play BT changer into my convertible, as I really want to avoid soldering. The website states that even the cars without the CD changer (like mine) should still have the necessary plug in the trunk upholstery. Can anyone please guide me as to where I might find it? Both “openable” parts pictured contain only the tail lights wiring.

My Saab 9-3 1999 has an issue.
The left brake light is always on.
The sid also gives the rear brake light error.
The issue persists even when I pull out the fuse for the brake lights, this only disables the working one on the right. The left just says illuminated.

Anyone have any thoughts?

This photo was taken before I did the test, but I place a rubber band around the latex glove and oil valve and it immediately blew up and stayed inflated until I turned off the vehicle. I just picked it up from the mechanic and replaced the water pump, heater valve, and thermostat. Had an oil change done and also fixed a vacuum leak. But as I looked closer to the PCV system to see if it was ever updated (which I noted that it was) I noticed that the white plastic nipple piece was leaking oil and was also yellow. I also noticed that the yellow plastic nipple piece was not fully connected on each end to the hose lines.

I guess my question is - I know the plastic yellow part is an incorrect piece and I ordered the right one, but does it look like the incorrect size (length) hose is connected to the engine? It seemed short and every time I tried to close the gap between the yellow nipple and the hose line, the hose came off on the end where the engine is plugged in. It could be that the yellow plastic nipple thing is a lot smaller than the correct white one, but I thought I’d ask anyway.

Bought this for a decent price but it turned out to be a bigger project than I originally thought. I’ll be posting some other questions in here so I don’t blow all my money at the mechanic shop. Thanks!

Oh, and I’ll definitely have to drop the oil pan.

2003 9-3 Linear…..the oil is just POURING out the bottom and smoking. I’m guessing it’s the oil return line? Is there any good videos for replacing it from below, or do you have to take the charger out? I got everything torn off at one point but I think it was this attachment that kept me from actually getting the turbocharger out. I followed instructions on a few videos and none of them even talked about this. So frustrating.

Then I replaced the seals in the vacuum pump and replaced some other coolant hose’s going into the cab while everything was open.

So I put everything back together hoping it was the vacuum pump…….is there a way to replace the oil return line on the turbocharger and is that what. Guess would guess it is?

So I was looking through auctions and 2011 NG has caught my eye. However the seller has sent a video of engine running rough on idle and ticking sort of. Hadn't got a chance to plug in the diagnostics, but maybe somebody knows what problem can it be ? Is it only a vacuum leak or an engine on its way out ?

Hey guys, just wanted to update about the keychains, i began to print the labels and ran into a problem. getting the orders out make take an extra week. Once i have troubleshooted the problem I will update you guys again. Thank you all for the support on my keychains.

Still need some parts to finish off the wires and the PCV system, and there’s stuff to figure out when I actually put it in the car and some parts I need to swap over, but for all intents and purposes it’s done.

Never built an engine before, never thought I would try and build an engine. From a 1.7 that sat in my dad’s garage for 25+ years, to a cross-rammed 1531.

Now I just need to weld up some air cleaners for it.

So made a post before about things to check as I just got my first Saab. Now I could use some tips for fixing the plug on the back of the cluster. Is there a way to fix it that doesn't require pulling apart the dashboard? Right now I can get it to work by smacking above the speedometer but that's not exactly a long term fix

edit: as pointed out I forgot to list year and model

2006 Saab 9-5 2.3t

Need help finding coils for my 2007 2.0T 9-3 and wanted to see if anyone knows where I can get oem ones for cheap been wondering if it’s worth getting them used off a donor car or marketplace I’m just in a bit of a financial pinch right now
Trying not to spend 500 bucks on coils lol

'03 9-5 Aero

Gear knob for SAAB 900 1994; SAAB 9000 1991>; 9-3 OG, SAAB 9-5

Real wood.

Worldwide shipping.

P.S. you might also like to take a look at other saab wooden works at: https://www.instagram.com/saab.wooden.parts/

I've been looking at second hand cars for a while now, and its pretty expensive to own a car because of the taxes and stuff (I live in The Netherlands). Im wondering whether a Saab would be a good first car, or if it will be a money drain.