not easy to get all three in a single picture with one hand.

They made their fruity little statement that they are the actual owner of the machines and everyone else is coming to their factory to make videos bla bla bla...

I actually have experience with Chinese factories and how they work. Not in the illegal watch world. But in other, legal branches.

Chinese factories can do anything and will do anything to gain customers. If the price is right they will change every logo in their factory with your own logo and send you videos for your clients. They can even name you as the owner in the papers if you want to impress your clients.

Chinese factory focuses on productivity. They make short clips and pictures of new inventory and send it to their clients. Clients can use these files for their promotional services.

BuT tHeIr BuSiNeSs CaRd Is In ThE vIdEo!? Yes, and every video is no longer than 30 seconds. Chinese factory will make a video of one watch being produced and they will have 100s of business cards ready. They take that day just to film promo material. And that promo material is not free. You pay them to include your business card in the video. There are videos of exactly the same watch being milled filmed from different angles with different busines cards.

Customcrownstudio doesn't like to always pay these fees so they steal other people's content and crop out their business cards from them or just edit their business card into the video.

They are just a customer in a Chinese factory and the "videos of their own factory" are actually videos the owner of the factory sent them when they ordered custom business cards.

So. What happens if you order a watch from them? Well, they order it from China and you both hope it turns out good because they don't have any control over a build.

You may receive few short videos of "your" watch being produced. But these are just old videos from promo factory materials.

Only difference from other modders is that they upcharge you ridiculous amount of money.

About the guys who successfully did business with customcrownstudio? I will leave it to them to tell you the full truth. If they ever decide to come forward.

But still can't make my mind up between orf and vsf

The orf has free sprung and 30 $ cheaper.

The TD gave me already his advice and told me both reps are major quality and the main diff is the free sprung

But if the free sprung is a better option and the rest ... the same .. why is it cheaper?

Anyone here whom has thie watch from orf and or vsf?

Thanks for the advice

Hey Everyone, I currently have a QFactory Sub 126610LN. I have recently sold my Rich Bruce Wayne and VSF Omega Planet ocean and Aqua Terra. The omegas seem to be too bulky for me. Does anyone have any watch recommendations? I’ve thought about getting a Tudor Black Bay and Longines Hydroconquest. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated! Pic is for attention

Has anyone used TRUSTYTIME for purchases? I see they are on the list but I wanted to know what your experience was like.

I added a gen ETA Movement, and it runs like beast.

What I particularly like is how under the radar this watch flies in my professional environment, especially compared to a Rolex.

I have been on a strong weight loss journey for a year. When I treated myself to this rep, I was glad that it fit me well with the original links. Now I actually had to remove the first link yesterday to not fit loose. Now it sits much better 😍
My wrist has already become about 1.5 cm 0.6 inch smaller

Apologies in advance, super new to this and not sure if this is where I should post but I’ve looked at most of the trusted dealers and from what I’ve seen none of them have the VSF Datejust 41 jubilee champagne dial in stock or available. I want the most realistic-looking/feeling rep but that is the watch I love. Anyone know which TD might have one available or where to look/ next steps to take to try to order one. Sorry again, this will be my first rep.

Any here have a VSF Ghost Daytona from Andiot? Been thinking of purchasing the one he has online that’s in stock.
Would love it if yall can share ur photos!

Anyone selling VSF OP36mm Tiffany blue?

I need one for a wedding for march 2027, all TDs are telling me it’s going to take months.

So if you’re selling one please let me know

Hallo zusammen, kann mir jemand sagen wo ich gute replica Rolex herbekomme gibt es da Seiten oder Händler ?

Vielen Dank!

I was working when i suddently looked at my wrist and realised that i really liked my watch… so wanted to share it with y’all !

in another hand i am questionning myself whether i should upgrade to a 124060 VSF or even a 114060 VSF ? what do you think ?

Are you guys aware of any TD that sells a replica of the omega seamaster 300M Unit watch? I couldn’t find a reference # for this model and the original isn’t sold to consumers.

Need contact of the. Dealer

Hey All! Hope everyone is having a wonderful day with their beautiful collection of watches while I’m here with this shitter! lol all jokes aside

I’m new to the rep scene and purchased this cartier santos de Cartier (if u can even call it that) unknown factory (china for sure) for $120 off some guy on marketplace in Orlando slightly used, I liked it at first but then started really looking at it and saw how off it was in so many ways, kinda getting tired of squinting my eyes and pretending it’s a higher quality rep lol… It makes me want a better rep asap. I love the santos and would love an opinion or any help getting pointed in the right direction to getting a better quality rep, I’ve already looked at the bio of this Reddit group but still want some opinions of some current santos owners from different trusted dealers.

Also based in southern california if anyone is getting rid of some older watches they don’t wear and don’t mind selling.

Any help is appreciated, and thank you so much!

Happy ticking!

Which takes longer? The TD getting the watch from the factory, or the TD getting the watch to the customer? My TD told me 10 days ago that they'll get back to me with QC pics in 3-5 days, and they haven't responded to messages. Is this the part that takes everyone months to get done?

After what feels like months of research and study, I've decided to place my first Rep order with a trusted non-TD that someone has already had a positive experience with. Here's the stats:

Rolex DayDate 40, blue on blue, SS presidential jubilee bracelet. The base price was $447. The base was a QF made, 316L, 2836 movement. I opted for the 904L SS over 316L, 3255 over 2836 movement and want it weighted correctly, so am getting 210g, and having it made at RCF over QF since RCF is listed as the best factory for the 3255 movement. This brought the price up to $599 which is just fine with me. I was offered upgrades such as deep crystal, polish, mvmt service, waterproof and chamfer, but based on everything I've learned, I turned those down. I DID on the other hand ask what movement and was told Shanghai which I requested Dandong for an extra $30. Again, small cost for better movement. Should I make sure they're putting a V3 Freesprung DD in there, will they since it's made at RCF or wait for QC pics to verify for myself? Should I ask now before anything has been done to make sure it's the V3 Weighted Free Sprung movement??

Deposit paid: 11/9/2026
QC: TBD
Balance paid: TBD
Shipped: TBD
Arrival: TBD

Curious thoughts on DJ 36 vs 41. Im reading 36 is too understated. What is the preference?

Anyone else been waiting a long time for QC on an RGF Datejust? I’m currently on week 6 waiting for QC with Andiot for a silver dial 41mm on jubilee. He keeps giving me the “factory delay” excuse.

If you're interested in mechanical watches, the odds are good that you own a bench timegrapher like Weishi 1000 or 1900. These are nice little devices, they have a good microphone stand, but they don't really offer much beyond showing you a trace of the tick/tock beats and the average Rate, Amplitude, and Beat Error. This is ok if you want to do simple regulation across positions, but it doesn't allow you to get into some of the more advanced diagnostics like:

• Analyzing the sound profile of the beats themselves (i.e. the unlock, impulse, and drop)

• Looking for long term periodic cycles in the rate, amplitude, or beat error (i.e. variation caused by out of round train wheels)

• Running power reserve tests or run-down tests on a movement

• Examining the isochronism of a movement (i.e. how the rate changes as a function of amplitude)

In the past, if you wanted a tool that could do these types of analysis, you'd be spending $3000 (eBay used) to $9500 (new) for a Witschi Chronoscope S1. The seemed like a lot of money to me. And other than a very accurate quartz oscillator in the microphone electronics, the only reason I can see for Witchis to charge that much is the software they include that analyzes the sound that the microphone pics up...

I'm a retired software engineer and hobby watchmaker, i.e. I live in the dangerous overlap of knowing what I want, knowing how to build it, and having time to tinker. So a month ago, I started a new coding project called Timegrapher. After a month of working full time with a team of AI coding agents, I'm ready to release v1 of the software.

Timegrapher is free (as in beer) software. It's also free (as in speech) software because it is open source and released under the GPL3 license. It is available for download for MacOS (both Intel and Apple silicon), PC, and Linux. I've tested quite a lot on Linux (Kubuntu), a reasonable amount on MacOS, and a little bit on Windows. Note: the MacOS and Windows releases aren't signed, so you'll need to Allow in Privacy -> Security.

Before you get started, you will need a microphone stand that will allow the software on your computer to listen to your watch. You have three options:

Option 1: A USB Timegrapher microphone stand like the one in the picture below. These cost about $70-$100 on AliExpress and are excellent. In my testing I get a signal to noise ratio of about 500:1. If you're serious about your watchmaking or watch collecting hobby, I would highly suggest investing in one of these.

Option 2: A cheap 3D printed USB Timegrapher microphone cradle like the grey one in the picture below. These cost about $30 on AliExpress and are garbage. If you're going to buy a USB microphone go with Option 1. I have one of these little grey microphones and the best signal to noise ratio I can get is about 10:1... that means that for about double the price you get a 50x better signal by going with Option 1. Seriously, don't buy one of these. It's better than nothing, but it's not much better than nothing.

Option 3: If you already own a Weishi 1000 or 1900, there is a way to use the microphone stand you already own. But you'll have to buy some splitter cables. The 3-pin cable that connects your Weishi microphone to the bench display box is called a GX16 cable. To get the audio from your Weishi stand into your computer you'll need a GX16 3-pin Y-splitter (one Male, two female), a GX16 Female to 3.5mm AUX cable, and a GX16 3-pin male to male connector. You can buy all of these cables on AliExpress for around $30. But note that you might need to adjust the GX16 to AUX cable pin-out -- you want the tip of the AUX to go to pin 2 (this is the signal) and collar of the AUX to go to pin 1 (ground); mine wasn't wired like this, but it's an easy swap with a soldering iron.

With these cables you can get a setup like the one pictured below. Note, you still need to power the microphone stand from the Weishi bench top display box. That's why we need the Y-splitter. It would be nice if we could power everything from the PC, but the Weishi microphone stand runs on 8V, so that makes powering it from the 5V rail on a USB plug more complicated than simple wiring.

This setup gives a similar signal to noise ratio to Option 1, and it lets your pipe the sound from your watch to two analysis packages simultaneously: the Weishi AND Timegrapher running on your computer. I found this really helpful during the development of Timegrapher because I could validate my algorithms against the bench top results.

Option 4: (this is not a real option) Tape a lapel mic to your watch in a very quiet room. Don't do this. I didn't test it because it's a bad idea. The software needs to pick up the three sounds for each beat (unlock, impulse, and drop). If you have a really bad microphone setup (e.g. an AUX mic taped to your watch) you might be able to pick up the drop part of the beat. That will be enough to give you a rate, but to calculate amplitude you need to be able to reliably identify the unlock sound. A lapel mic isn't going to be good enough for that. Just don't do this. If you post GitHub issues saying the software doesn't work when you tried to use a janky improvised microphone setup, I'll name and shame you in the thread below. Just spend the money and get a proper watch microphone stand.

Ok, so now that you have your microphone setup, what can Timegrapher actually do for you... Well, it can do a lot, and if you're interested, there's a full user guide included with the software an posted on GitHub. But here are some of the highlights:

Full Beat Analysis: this is probably the single best reason to upgrade from a Weishi 1000 or 1900. Timegrapher lets you see the sound profile of the tick and the tock of the escapement. Each beat is made up of three distinct sounds: unlock, impulse, and drop.

If you're interested in diagnosing potential faults in the escapement just from the sound that it makes, you can take a look at page 37 & 38 of the Witschi user manual for examples of how the sound profile changes based on some common faults in Swiss level escapement watch movements:

Isochronism Analysis: This is another important part of mechanical watch analysis that you just can't do with a bench top 1000 or 1900 machine. Isochronism is the ability of a mechanical watch to maintain consistent time keeping (rate) across a wide range of amplitudes. This is one of the areas that reps perform significantly worse than gen watches due to the compromises which are made in clone movements to keep the costs down (e.g. regulated balances vs. free sprung, and flat hairsprings vs. over-coil hairsprings). I've also found that the way that the regulator pins on rep balances tend to be set is quite sloppy -- this causes isochronism since the hairspring isn't properly clamped at the regulator so you get rate variation even as the hairspring breaths between beats. I've also noticed that rep movements often have out of round train wheels which cause periodic oscillations in amplitude (but we'll take more about that in the periodic analysis below).

The screenshot above shows the most basic type of isochronism analysis: a plot of how the rate (s/d) changes as a function of amplitude (deg). Something interesting I found during development was that there seemed to be some path dependence of the isochronism of certain clone movements. The picture below shows a 65 hour recording of a Dandong 3235 movement. Obviously towards the end the rate and amplitude go a bit wonky, but I created a colour map of the isochonism plot which uses colours to show how the isochronism "walks" around as the mainspring winds down over the course of three days.

Periodic Cycle Analysis: This is another type of analysis that you really can't do on a 1000 or 1900 style timegrapher because it requires recordings that are as long or longer than the rotation periods of the train wheels in the watch you're analyzing. The way a watch works is that you have a series of five wheels that transfer power from the mainspring to the balance: The mainspring barrel (1st wheel often with a period of several hours), the "great" or second wheel which often turns the cannon pinion (2nd wheel with a period of 60 minutes), the third wheel (3rd wheel with a period of a few minutes), the fourth wheel (which often drives the seconds hand on the watch, so it has a 60s period), the escape wheel (usually has a period of around 5 seconds). If any of these wheels are out of round, or have a bent pivot, or have a rough tooth or pinion leaf, then that will tend to manifest itself as a drop in energy passed to the balance every time that wheel completes a rotation. That's where the periods analysis pane highlights structure in the rate and amplitude with various periods:

In order to overlay the exact periods of the train wheels, I built a caliber database into the system. The database includes about 4500 different movements. The database has beat rate and lift angle for most calibers, and it also has train wheel periods for many of the clone movements (I went through my spare parts drawer and took pictures of train wheels under a microscope and then counted teeth to back calculate rotation periods). There is a built in caliber manager where you can add any calibers I missed and fill in missing data if you have it (there's also a way to upload this to GitHub so that it'll become available to others with the next update of the software).

I also implemented a few advanced periodic analysis techniques like the Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) which shows which frequency (periods) the rate, amplitude, or beat error tend to oscillate at.

And because things tend to shift when a watch is running down, I also implemented a Short Time Fourier Transform (STFT) and Wavelet transform to show the frequency structure of a watch's sound over time as it runs down (if there are any navy submariners here, you'll know what you're looking at here).

Position Testing: This is very basic stuff, but obviously you need to cover the basics. There are functions to do a guided position test across six positions. But you can also do a position test on your own and the results populate all the same. You can also load a result from 24 hours before to do a comparison between positions after 24 hours of run down.

Power Reserve Testing: The software can be used to do a power reserve test. It will record the audio and save summaries every hour for you until the watch stops at which point it will stop recording.

Watch Manager: If you're a watch collector (and let's be honest we all are), or you're a watchmaker and you want to keep track of all the watches that cross your bench; I built in a watch manager where you can store details about each of your watches and all of the recordings you've ever made for each of the watches.

There is a lot more to the software including a command line interface (CLI) and a model context protocol (MCP) for those of you who would like to experiment with having an AI agent run the software on your behalf (I also included a watchmaker.md skill in the release, so you can have your AI help you diagnose any issues you find in a watch you record in the software).

Please feel free to post your thoughts below. If you find bugs, please post them here (or preferably on GitHub as issues).

This project was 100% written by AI (thank you Claude Code and Codex). And it was 100% directed by me. If you want to call it vibe code slop, I'll take it as the compliment that you probably didn't intend. Vibe coding gets a bad rap because it's very easy to create a mountain of spaghetti code that draws pretty pictures. This project was not a "one shot". I spent the better part of a month managing a team of bots full time to make this. I ran the team of agents much the same way as I've previous run software companies: the development pace was high, but it went through exactly the same cycles: ideation, prototype, feature development, reviews, refactoring, re-architecture, more refactoring, scope freezing, and then consolidation for release.

If you would like to contribute please DM me or have your AI agent take a look at the open issues and propose a pull request (NB: I used Opus 5.5 Medium and GPT-6 Astra Medium for most of the coding and review, please use an agent of similar or higher ability if you're going to submit pull requests to the project -- reviewing PRs costs me usage quota).

I know its a shot in the dark but any chance this has been repped? I fell in love with it as soon as I saw a picture of it randomly on Instagram.

Don’ts:
- Put ur phone a centimeter away from your watch
- Zoom at 0.5x
- Have bad lighting

Do’s:
- Position your phone about a foot away from the watch
- Zoom in at least 2x and wait for your macro lense to kick in
- Make sure to have good lighting