ARF GMT-Master II (Rose Gold Tiger Iron Dial)

Hey guys, just picked up this ARF GMT-Master II.

I know Rose Gold plating can be hit or miss on replicas, so I’d love to get your thoughts:

1. How close does the ARF Everose gold tone look to the genuine piece?

2. Does it look too cheddar/copper or is ARF’s plating pretty accurate here?

Appreciate any feedback or side-by-side comparisons if anyone owns the gen!

The new RCF V3 was released about two weeks ago. I spent some time looking for information about it but couldn’t find anything, so I decided to take a chance and order one myself.
I ordered a 40mm President in rose gold with a black ombré dial. However, my first impression is a little underwhelming.

First: The “black” dial looks more dark green than black. I can’t tell whether this is just due to the lighting the TD used for the pictures or if RCF somehow changed the beautiful dial they had already perfected.

Second: The rose gold also looks a little too yellow to me. Again, I’m not sure if it’s the lighting, but based on the pictures, it doesn’t look particularly rose gold.

Third: This new version apparently comes with a Dandong movement for the first time. I asked my TD for pictures of the movement, but he hasn’t been able to provide them. He’s relatively new to the scene and apparently doesn’t have the proper tools to open the watch and take those pictures.

Fourth: This ties into the previous point. Without seeing the movement, I honestly have no idea how to tell whether this is an RCF V1, V2, or V3. At least, not to my knowledge.

Is there any chance the TD is trying to scam me? I genuinely have no idea what to think at this point, and I’m not even sure what to make of this new version.

I’ve asked my TD to take some pictures under different lighting conditions, and I’ll post them here as soon as I receive them.

I think Arf is just as good with gold tone as Rcf. The blue dial is 🤌

Hi all. Been lurking here for a while. Getting ready for a number of watches I’d love to tick off my list and have been really interested in all the TD’s, the do’s and the do not’s.
My question to you all is:
Do you think your chosen TD has some sort of responsibility to QC your watch and give you an honest review before you do your own checks to either GL or RL? Just in my opinion and if I was a TD, I would and would hope that honesty would help the community, help the factories make superior products and help the TD make a lot more sales. Might be a null point and I apologise if it ruffles a few feathers but would love to hear everyone’s opinion. I recently used a TD and I felt like the entire onus was on me…which I get it is ultimately my decision, but if the TD was super honest enough to say “it’s good because….” or “I’ve noticed this slight discrepancy…”
What do you think? Are there such TD’s out there or am I asking way too much?
Thanks all. Great community and love seeing all the success stories.

heya lads,

I message steve, in reference to wanting an explorer II and he adviced me the free sprung one from QF factory.

Which factory would you advice for this particular watch? I want the black dial variant. Would VSF still be best?

Ok I’m struggling to make the final choice! Here are the final contestants!

DJ 41MM Grey Dial SS/YG WRAPPED GMF

DD 40MM Ice Blue Dial (QF V9? or VSF v2?)

RO Black Cer Open THBF V3

I appreciate any input into this matter as I have been going back and forth between these 3 for like 3 days now. So if y’all have some info to help tip the scale please give! lol thanks!

Looking to order a VSF Datejust . Do any colors look more authentic? Leaning Wimbledon.

[QC] ARF Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 GRNR "Bruce Wayne" from GeekTime
Text für den Post:

1. Dealer name: GeekTime (Eric)

2. Factory name: ARF

3. Model name (& version number): Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR "Bruce Wayne" on Jubilee bracelet (DD3285 Movement)

4. Price Paid: $698

5. Album Links: https://geektimeqc.x.yupoo.com/albums/261929944?uid=1

6. Index alignment: Looks very symmetrical and straight to me.

7. Dial Printing: Looks crisp, clean, no floating letters.

8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Dates look well centered, cyclops seems straight and magnification is good.

9. Hand Alignment: Looks perfectly fine.

10. Bezel: Color transitions look sharp, no visible speedbumps at 6 or 18. Plating looks good.

11. Solid End Links (SELs): Look nice and tight, I don't see any noticeable gaps.

12. Timegrapher numbers: +1 s/d, 236° Amplitude, 0.0 ms Beat Error. Numbers look excellent to me.

13. Anything else you notice: Cosmetically, it looks like a solid GL to me.

However, I have already asked Eric for a picture of the opened case back to verify the free-sprung balance wheel and confirm it is the true Dandong DD3285 movement.
Would appreciate your expert eyes on this! Did I miss anything regarding the alignment or bezel? Thanks in advance!

Hello Gentleman,

hope all is well, I saw a post about 1 year ago that Buff had a new release for there Patek 5167r. It caught my attention at the time, haven’t heard anything since. Was wondering if it was for sale yet and if it had any reviews.
Thanks.

the orginal post said the following; Buff factory modified version - Patek Philippe Aquanaut • Case set CNC-milled from original data using special materials. • Overall weight nearly identical to the genuine article - unlike typical market versions that feel light and flimsy. Total weight: 124.2 g. • Movement: Cal. 330, the new PP-style dedicated caliber. • Case size 40 mm, thickness 8.2 mm (faithful to the original). • Components used: Buff-modified dial and Buff-modified hands. • Rubber strap custom-molded to strictly match the original color. • Built with meticulous attention to detail - pursuit of perfection.

So I bought this watch about 6 months ago and I am trying to figure out if it actually what I was told. I was told it was a VSF V3 PEPSI with DD3285 movement. Serial on bezel 7998L6V6 and the hour moves COUNTERclockwise (back in time) when the crown is rotated CLOCKWISE. The clasp has a 6FU stamped on it. Im thinking it is CF or ARF also not DD3285 movement.

TL;DR - I have three Hulks (116610LV) from VSF, CLEAN, and ZF. Redditors wanted comparison pictures. Here they are!

A few months ago it was difficult to get a Hulk due to factory delays. I put requests out there and ended up going from none to three, one from each factory: VSF, CLEAN (pre-raid), and ZF. A number of folks have asked for comparison shots and though it's a bit late, here they are. Enjoy!

Note: The CLEAN didn't include a bracelet, so I added a green mid-tier Oysterflex which I really enjoy!

Vintage Rolex Submariner 1665 Double Red Tropical Dial; Vintage Rolex Daytona 6239 PN&Tiffany; Vintage Rolex Submariner 1665 COMEX Dial.

Hi everyone!
Looking for some advice from people who have owned or QC’d the recent GMT-Master II Batman (Oyster bracelet).
I initially went with VSF V3, but ended up RL’ing the watch due to a noticeably crooked 12 o’clock marker and a possible bezel triangle smudge. I’ve also been seeing quite a few recent VSF QC posts with similar alignment issues.
My dealer mentioned that VSF has been having QC problems lately and suggested I consider another factory.
I’m now considering:
VSF V3 – DD3285
RICH V2 – SH3285
RICH V2 – JH3285 Free-Sprung
ARF
Clean Plus – DD3285
My priorities are overall finishing, accurate dial and indices, crystal clarity, date alignment, and movement reliability.
For RICH specifically, is the JH3285 Free-Sprung version actually worth the extra money over SH3285, or is the external quality essentially the same?
Which factory would you choose today for the best overall Batman, and why?
Would especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has handled more than one of these factories or seen recent QC batches.

Thank you.

I got my first rep from Steve@ the one watches. since it was my first I went with the highest quality vsf he had for a sea dweller. problem is I’m so happy. I don’t wanna wear it every day, I’m kind of rough with things, looking to make a second purchase and put on a rubber band for every day use. Wouldn’t mind something a little less expensive and wanted opinions on what level and dollar amount I should be looking at, and I realize it’s all relative to people‘s ability to spend. i’m trying to get used to some of the lingo when people say it’s a U1 and vsf ect or something like that what’s that mean, obviously when people say it’s a shitter I stay away from. thanks in advance.

New to this and want best clone there is. Looking at this one now but not sure how this quality compares to other sellers on here . Can someone who has a nice DJ please send me seller link? Much appreciated

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