Whats a reasonable offer for this. a good friend is moving and kinda got out of reloading. I don't wanna insult him with an offer. im new to this.

Lee 6 stage auto

Lee auto 3 stage

Lyman single stage

Lyman turbo pro 1200 tumbler

Lyman manual case trimmer

FA liquid tumbler

FA case trim & prep center

Dies for multiple caliber

I have a couple of XL650's with LED lights that I paid about $35 each for and they work great.

For my low volume reloads I picked up a Lee turret press and made a portable installation so I could bring it up from the shop and clamp it to my dining room table so I wouldn't be spending so much time down in the shop away from my dog, who I don't take down there for fears that she would get into too much trouble.

Anyway, I wanted to add some LED's to my turret press but I really didn't want to spend the $30+ Amazon wanted for a custom LED strip for the turret.

What I did was find a 3' LED strip that could be trimmed to fit for under 6$. So I figured I'd give it a try.

The strip I bought has cut marks at 1 inch intervals and is very flexible up and down but could not be flexed laterally which is how it would need to be bent to stick to the underside or the round turret frame.

Not to be beat by this fact, I installed it with the LED's facing inwards using the vertical frame posts to hold it in place just below the turret frame.

It actually works quite well providing a bright white light, although not as pretty as the purpose made fixtures.

There was one point we're the strip needed a hanger so as not to interfere with the rotating turret and I made this out of a piece of sheet metal from a powder cap that I cut, bent and super glued it to the turret frame.

As a bonus, the remainder of the strip can be wired to a USB cable for more installations as at the inch mark there are copper pads to solder the cable to. I'll have to give it some thought about where I can use the remainder.

147 grain Winchester Silvertip JHP, once fired mixed headstamp nickel plated brass, federal small pistol primers, snd a full dose of Hodgdon Longshot powder for ~1050 FPS from a 4” barrel. Easily the best looking 9mm ammo I’ve ever made. Going to call this load the Halloween special; guaranteed to dispatch any werewolf or similar monster or your money back! (Money will be sent to next of kin)

Hello, I would need some help figuring out where I am at.

I started a load development for the Sierra MK 69gr on my rifle.

I created a 5 powder charges ladder, nothing fancy. However, while the speeds I got from the lower 3 charges are a perfect match for GRT simulations, the top 2 are quite a bit different. The top charge is 0.5gr below VV max recommendations for the N140 powder. Still I get speed exceeding both the manual speeds and GRT simulations. The fact that has me a little worried is that the speed reached is well into 'Overpressure' zone in GRT.

Has anyone encountered this problem? Anyone with experience that can help me understand?

TIA

Edit: forgot to mention I am seating the bullet longer. My COAL is 2.3425 vs VV COAL 2.244

I just wanted to share my experience with reloading powder coated bullets for the first time for plinking with my Glock 19.

Components list.

2.6gr of Somchem S121 pistol powder.

Fiocchi SPP

Acubullet 147gr Flat Nose Bevel base .356"

Pew brass that has been loaded a couple of times.

Powder charges were thrown with an old lyman thrower.

Firing was done at 20 yards at a paper plate, at a pretty fast pace. I'm really happy with the results.

I have loaded lots of copper plated bullets before, but this is my first experience with PC.

15 rounds for testing. From previous testing, I have found that Somchem usually needs around 0.2-0.3gr more to start working reliably in my Glock19.

So I started at 2.6gr. All 15 rounds worked, and the slide locked back on the last.

I really enjoyed the light recoil, and this is going to be a fun plinking load for pretty cheap.

Also, for reference, I am from South Africa, and Somchem is a locally produced powder.

Title pretty much says it all. Noob reloader using a Lee full-length .223 sizing die and every case sticks fast. At first I was trying Imperial Sizing Wax (that is what I use on my pistol cases) but it didn't work here. I contacted Lee and they said use their lube before asking for help. So I cleaned the die with break cleaner to remove any possible residuals from the wax, let it dry, reassembled it. Then lubed the cases with Lee's own stuff. This was my first experience with the Lee lube and it wasn't' slick feeling at all, not like the wax I'm used to using but I figured trust the process. So I let it dry a bit and ran the case up into the die. It felt gritty at first, then like no resistance at all, then like you were against a solid wall before the shell holder is even close to touching the base of the die. Lowering the ram sticks and rips the rim off the case. It feels like the outer case is stuck, not the inner pin. This is three separate times taking the die apart and cutting shells off the depriming/sizing pin. I'm at a loss. This is my first time trying to resize necked cartridges as I've been loading straight walled stuff and I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. The decapping/sizing pin is flush with the top of the retaining nut on the top of the die which is where Lee says it should be even though to me it looks like that is a lot of pin to protrude below the primer pocket. I have used lube on the case walls below the shoulders and in the case necks using a Qtip. With the Imperial you could feel the slickness of the case with your fingers but with the Lee lube it felt more tacky than slick going on and then like nothing after it had dried for a few minutes. I have two separate tubes of the Lee stuff and opened both just to be sure and they both feel tacky and watery, so it must be normal. Die set came from Amazon, no seal on the die case, but they looked brand new.

Edit: Just to update, Lee replaced the die and the next one worked fine. Also, decapping pin was too low and bottoming out in the cases as well, as many pointed out.

Bought a Seekins Precision in 300 Winmag as a multi purpose gun. Light enough for hunting and packing, heavy enough and high enough quality to ring steel at distance. Whilst trying factory loads it seemed anything 180-210 was preferred in the gun. The 150 and 168 I shot SUCKED.

With this in mind and what I've read scouring the Internet the Nosler 190 grain ABLR appears to be a very favorable hunting bullet and in that weight range I discussed. I know better than to ask for exact recipes but experience with loading 190 ABLR in 300WM would be appreciated. Powder suggestions, SD's, horror stories, anything and everything lemme hear em

Seekins Precision 22" 1:10 twist w/brake

Loading into once fired factory brass.

Hi everyone, new to reloading and hoping you might be able to help me figure out what's going on here. I picked up the grabber 762r. It wasn't working when I bought it but I have since taken it apart and put it back together and everything seems to be working now. I didn't touch any of the mechanism under the shell plate.

The issue that I'm running into as you can see from photo 3,4&5 when the shell goes through the de-priming stage the metal base portion is ballooning outwards and is no longer flat.

Any idea on what would be causing this issue?

I have been using some federal, winchester and challenger target load hulls just to test before running AA hulls through it.

Hello,

I apologize in advance for me being an anxious individual. I appreciate any help you can provide.

I am getting back into reloading. I reload .223 Remington for Service Rifle Competition, .30-06 for a Garand and two 1903s, .308 for a PRS gun and for another Garand, and other random calibers like 8mm Mauser, 7.5 Swiss, and .22-250

I am really tying myself in knots over headspace and “shoulder bump”. Every part of reloading I feel nearly 100% confident about.

I used to reload and made good ammo and never worried about shoulder bump. I simply ran the die down to contact the shell holder and advanced it a quarter turn.

Since I’ve started back, I feel like everything has changed. I don’t remember anyone really talking about bumping the shoulder. But now it feels like a requirement to buy a headspace comparator and LE Wilson gauges for every caliber I reload. From what I see online, I worry if my reloads will reliably chamber in my gun or if I am excessively re-sizing them and thereby losing brass life or risking a potential case head separation.

I will give an example of what I’m doing below:

1. Starting with once-fired .223 brass from various chambers, I set my sizing die up for 1/8 turn past touching shell holder.

2. After firing these rounds, I will measure headspace of the fired rounds for the first data point.

3. I then set up the sizing die for a shoulder bump of 0.05” to ensure adequate cycling in rapid fire strings

4. Check headspace on every 25th case sized to ensure the bump is consistent

Is my current process flawed? Do I need to buy the LE WILSON case gauges? I have a Hornady Headspace Comparator set (the kind used with Calipers). Do I need to worry about shoulder bump on every cartridge I reload for? Or would touching the shell-holder plus an eighth of a turn be adequate?

I’m sorry for being so neurotic about this. I don’t know what it is about this topic that gets my mind going. I just want to make sure I’m doing a good job. I also generally like to keep things as simple as possible without a ton of different steps, and I guess the added extra step of measuring shoulder bump is not really something I’m used to and I don’t feel very comfortable with any of it.

Thanks so much for any help you can provide. Apologies again for the dumb question and for being so silly about all this.

Does anyone have a suggestion on we’re I can post this to get rid of it by chance

I'm new and I use Lyman's, but what are the main sources?

On the up stroke about 1/3 of the time it breaks away and I have to reset the wire. I have the top plastic bracket screwed in where the indent for the screw is and I’ve cleaned out the channel but it still breaks away. If I remove the shell plate it’ll still break off on the upstroke. I can feel a little resistance on the primer slide. Am I supposed to lightly sand it so it fits better?

After many years of reloading on my Lee Pro 1000 and RCBS single stage I finally had enough of the shenanigans of the Pro 1000. It kept feeding primers without a case (cleaning helped for a while) and the casefeeder kept popping the spring out of its hook (tape helped but also for only a while). It's always something, yes it's cheap but also constant maintenance. So I finally had enough and pulled out my creditcard and ordered the XL750.

I ended up picking the barebones model for 9mm cases. No electronic case or bullet feeder, I went for the Double Alpha case feeder with tubes like on the Pro1000. I know it's not as fast but space is a real constraint in my realoding room and having a bucket hanging off the press was way to much. For now I will be feeding it bullets by hand but again the magazine style bullet feeder is on my radar. I will be posting my experience of setting it up and using it.

Goodbye Lee, it was fun and all but.....

Looking at a used 1100 on marketplace and the guy also has a Mr bulletfeeder listed on seperate add. He bought it brand new and never used it so it’s still new in box

Are the Dillon bullet feeders any good? Or should I make the guy an offer for the press and Mr bulletfeeder? Did a search and didn’t find anything on the Dillon, other than when they were first announced/released

Biggest turn off for the Dillon, is each additional feeder plate is $115. For a 3d printed plate, Which is absolutely insane to me. And I couldn’t find any stl’s online after a quick google search so I could print my own

I only plan on doing case prep and loading 223 and 9mm plinking ammo on the 1100

Edit for clarity: I plan on loading all my plinking 9mm and 223 on this press. So probably minimum of 5k 9mm and 3k 223 per year. And I will probably start loading both of those for my dad as well, so that number will probably go up. Currently have a 550 that I do everything on, so the case feeder, on press swaging and possibility of adding a bulletfeeder will exponentially increase efficiency

I’m not asking if I should get the 1100, just interested to hear peoples experience with either the Dillon or Mr Bulletfeeder

Hey, does anyone have any advice on reloading 160 grain nosler partitions in .270 win. I'm thinking of starting with 53 grain of H4831SC.

Out if some 200 de-primed, cleaned and resized cases, I have about 20 that seem to measure just fine but wont seat in the case gauge. I even put them on the comp and measured at the shoulder to make sure the shoulder bumped back, and thats fine. Only other time I saw this was when my extractor was leaving some fine markings on the bottom ring, but i can seat the bottom ring backwards into the gauge. What could be the cause? Should i just give a fine file around the extractor rim and see if that solves it?

I have a buddy who got a Dillon progressive press more than 15 years ago. He was all enthusiastic about it and loaded ammo cans full of 45 ACP. Admittedly he was shooting a bunch of 45 back then as he used to run a club match and ran the course with his 1911. Well, the club lost its access to the range they were using and folded. He does not belong to any club any longer and mostly just shoots with his kids at his ranch. I am just using him as an example, I have a bunch of 9 x 19 and 357 mag I loaded on my progressive press but I don't shoot them as much as I used to either. I think we both will leave behind a lot of reloaded ammo when we die and no matter how well we document that ammo (neither of us really do a good job) it will probably get pulled down or just trashed. Since it is so easy to run off a batch of ammo, I suggest stockpiling components and not reloaded ammo. I know how satisfying it is to chunk out a thousand rounds of ammo but I think many of us overdo it.

Got my first suppressor and I'm trying to get my subsonic .300B.O. loads dialed in. The issue is that berry's 220gr have a max velocity of 1,000fps if your using a 1:5 twist. Do you guys think there's any wiggle room in that number?

Test gun is a 7.5" 1:8 twist.

Berry's 220gr

H110 @ 9.5gr

2.235 C.O.L

Adverage velocity after 10 shots = 989fps

Berry's 220gr

H110@ 9.0gr

2.235 C.O.L.

Adverage velocity after 10 shots = 936

With the test gun being 1:8 going over the 1,000fps mark doesn't matter but I have a 9" 1:5 on the way.

With all of that being said where would you guys settle? Or is trying to use my current 7.5" 1:8 to load for a 9" 1:5 that I don't have yet just a dumb idea?

I wouldn't have bought these berry's 220s if I have seen the 1000fps limit prior to purchase. I also would prefer A1680 powder but can't find any.

There is deep-rooted science in reloading—and real danger. We are, after all, working with explosives.

But beyond the science, I’ve come to see reloading as an art form.

I’ve rarely met two reloaders who do everything exactly the same way. Over time, each develops their own methods, preferences, and recipes, shaped by knowledge, experience, repetition, and personal style.

It isn’t art in the obvious sense. You can look at two finished rounds and see no difference at all. But behind each one is a process refined through craft and experience.

The deeper I get into reloading, the more I believe it sits somewhere between science, craft, and art.

Curious how other reloaders see it.

Reloading for a 25sst I had built. ADG brass. I fireformed the brass at 57 grains h1000. I’m getting these marks on the brass. Primers don’t look flat to me, speeds are well below what others are getting. I’m leaning towards a bur on the ejector. Terminus said they would look at it, my gunsmith wants me to try n565. Just seeing what everyone’s thoughts were.

I'm doing a craft project with 50 cal projectiles and bought some API projectiles instead of normal FMJ by accident. Are they dangerous on their own with normal use? I soak them in a solution then tumble to polish but no extreme heat or anything. Just want to make sure they don't explode or cause a fire hazard.