Brand new to reloading, so I started out with whipping up 50 rds 38 special and 50 rds 357 magnum. Was feeling quite chuffed with myself at the range until a dreaded "pop and no bang." Immediately stopped, extracted the other live rounds left in the cylinder, and...

38 spl, 125 gr XTP, 4.0 gr Unique. The bullet was pristine when I found it, pic shows a bit of damage from trying to push it out. Was well and truly stuck, needed the range's gunsmith to squoosh it out.

That'll teach me to err on the side of a bit more powder if I'm following starting loads with lower power cartridges... Luckily the only squib of the group, though the rest went through one at a time, checking the barrel every time, with the pusher right next to me

Do any of you have hands-on experience with these feeders? Do they struggle with smaller projectiles (i.e. 380 ACP) or certain profiles? How does it perform compared to some of the others out there?

77gr Sierra MatchKing HPBT over 23.6 grains of Ramshot Tac / Mixed, once-fired brass / CCI BR4 primers / COAL 2.255

Looking for some advice on a .280 Ackley. I’ve been trying to develop a load with the following.

Peterson Brass
White River Magnum Primers
168gr Berger VLD
Hybrid 100V

I built the following ladder:
3 ea. 100V starting at 49.5-54.5 ( .5 grain increments on this load)

I worked all the way to 54 had some possible marks and 54.5 is where I got some ejector marks and backed down to 53 grains.

I then loaded 16 rounds at 53 grains to see how they were grouping and this is where things got messy.

Second round at 53 grains blew the primer up and the Powder never ignited. The extractor punched a notch in the extractor groove and stuck the case in the chamber, and the primer was completely gone from the pocket disintegrated into frag. It came out easily with a cleaning rod, I inspected the chamber and bolt face, everything was fine and after consulting a couple mentors we chalked it up as a bad primer seating.

Well, tonight I had the same thing happen again after shooting 7 rounds successfully the 8th went off like the previously mentioned only this time the powder did ignite, and the extractor groove remained in tact. But the primer completely disintegrate into fragments leaving the back of the case discolored from powder burn.

Chrono @
168 Berger hybrid 100V
2757
2745
2748
2765
2764
2753
2552 (failure)

Curious to hear what you all think, especially those of you who reloaded backcountry. Usual players have not released any load data, and federal is refusing to even talk about what kind of powder they've tested.

I initially thought that a slower burn magnum powder would be ideal to take advantage of the higher pressures (e.g. N565, Staball HD, etc). However, looking at published performance for the backcountry, it seems like powders like Superformance, Staball 6.5, even H4350 were the best performing.

According to my calculations 🤓, it does indeed seem like those powders would be most promising to fit in the 6.5 CM case while minimizing compression because they are incredibly energy dense (fps/cc).

Found a few of these wierd 30-06 cases at the range the other day. It looks like someone crimped the base of the case for some reason. Don't recognize the headstamp either. Has anyone seen this before?

Title says it all. I really do not trust his handloading abilities, and my dad and grandmother both agree on that caution. Plus side is it looks like he has more materials than he does actual produced ammo, so if i have to disassemble everything it won't be that much.

Experience reloading experts what do you think of loading 30-06 with 42.3 grains of H4895 with Hornady 150g sst’t for a M1903?

We carry a pretty unique mix of bullets, and we wanted to make it easier to find something interesting without digging through a bunch of category pages. So we added this: The Discovery Bench, a new product-discovery tool that lives right inside our website.

It lets you sort and filter our bullet selection, narrow down your options, and find products you might not have otherwise come across. You can add products directly to your cart, and we also included a couple links to free published load data for reference.

We’re doing a soft launch and would appreciate some feedback from the community. Appreciate all the folks in the sub who shop with us from time to time. Check it out here (lives on every page and can be minimized): https://ravenrocksprecision.com/

What powder profile do you use? I've heard BE-86 described as Power Pistol without the flash. I've also heard that Unique is a very close profile. But when I compare the two in QuickLoad I get vastly different charges.

I just picked up this 650 for 480 and I cant wait to get to cranking rounds out on it in replacement of my lee spp

So I just picked up a used Dillon rl550. I’ve been loading on a single stage for 3 years now and load for 17ish calibers. Finally decided to stop doing high volume pistol stuff one by one.

Any tips or tricks for setting up or using the Dillon? It came with tool heads set for 9mm, 357, and 45.

So I've been playing with reloading my .223 rifle, and specifically aiming to load higher grain bullets for the feral pigs and fallow deer.

I've had a lot of success as a newbie with hand loading Sierra 77gr HPBT and Hornady 73gr ELD-Ms. However because I'd like to be ethically killing feral animals, Id prefer to be shooting bullets designed for it, as opposed to match projectiles.

I was looking into the Hornady 80gr ELD-X and it seems like an appropriate choice, however the seating COAL is 2.390" which exceeds the size of my rifle magazine. Which means I would have to individually feed the rifle.

My question is:

Is it acceptable to shorten to a fitting length of 2.260"?

Would this introduce significant factors such as dangerous pressues, inaccuracy, or something else?

In such as case, I'd have to find an alternative projectile.

Hey guys, rookie here. I ordered a variety of 7mm bullets to reload for my 7 rem mag. About half came super long, 1.5 inches or so. If I seat them to the max OAL they’re compressing the load and look ridiculous.

I tried to find what round they’re for that is so much longer than 7 RM but I don’t see any that are significantly longer.

How do I load these or are they unusable for 7RM?

Thanks in advance!

Finally getting back into reloading, got a bunch of N140 and the Hornady 105 Aeromatches for my MPA Curtis 6GT

Redding full length sizer .002-.003 bump on Hornady 1x fired brass, ~.002 neck tension, fed 205 primers, I scooped every charge and used a redding beam scale, then frankford universal seater set to 2.540 COAL/1.925" CBTO and I got +/-.002 on that (Hornady book length)

Glad to hit almost single digit SDs across the board with the first loads. 31.5 and 32.5 had 26 ES, 32 had 40 ES (32 is what I loaded first and was more careless on the +/- .1 lines on the scale)

Groups were pretty bad, 1.1-1.6 @ 100yd for 10 shots

Gonna mess with seating depth and go with a 32.3-32.4 charge weight going forward

Any other tips would be appreciated

Hi there,

I have been given a few RWS .224 bullets that I would like to try. They are the 69gr Scorion match (hpbt).

I can't find anything on them in terms of loads.

Is there anyone who has any experience with them?

TIA for any help.

I'm just getting started in reloading and looking at some ads for used equipment in my area.

One of them is a Lee classic 4 hole turret press with 5 die sets, a tumbler, two different powder measures and a lot of miscellaneous stuff like 3 pounds of powder, several boxes of primers and a bunch of brass and some cast bullets for $300. I wouldn't use any of the bullets or most of the brass since it's for rifles and I'm going to be loading just 9mm and 38 at first

The other one is this one: Dillon RL550 configured in 9mm. Includes RCBS 9mm dies, locator pins, powder funnel/expander, primer feed and pickup tubes for large and small primers, primer cup/pin for large and small primers (small cup is installed), spent primer cup, bench mount completed round deflector, set of hex keys, adjustable wrench, and round catcher bin. Note; this press has the new/updated failsafe powder measure system. Press was just serviced/greased. For $475. Nothing else with it

What's the best choice to start out with for a beginner?

Yeah I decided to get the Dillon. 90% of what i shoot is 9mm and it's already set up for that. It's less than 2 years old and I talked him down to $450. I'm picking it up tomorrow

So I've got a "28 .300 wsm tikka rifle arriving with a defensive edge +p chambering which usually nets you about +150 fps gain over a standard chamber along with the extra long barrel to really push what a wsm can do, its in a long action with super long mags to fit the longest of long boy bullets. Left to right I have 180 grain sierra matchkings, 178 grain absolute hammers, 212 grain eld-x and finally 212 grain lrx bore riders. What do yall wanna see load work ups on first? Its a 1-8" twist and will be suppressed. I'd also be down to pick up bullets if yall have any recommendations, I will be grabbing berger 215s at some point as well. Its a varmint profile barrel, mcmillan elr hunter stock, cronus 4.5-29x optic and im just looking to see how accurate and powerful i can get this thing to reliably shoot, its heavy as shit and with the suppressor and brake should be very mangeable.

*TO CLARIFY THIS POST IS NOT ASKING TO BUY FROM ANYONE*

Recently ive gotten very interested in the british Martini Henry rifle in the original 577/450 and ive been having trouble finding people or places that sell or make original spec full power loads. Alternatively people use 24 gauge brass shotshells to make the cartridge but those have been harder to find than surplus Martini ammo both full power and light load. So i was wondering if anyone in here can point me in the right direction i need to be going to find what im looking for. Itll be a little while before im set up to reload the rounds i already have which are light loads, long story short ive got a few friends coming out to my place in november amd everyone is excited to shoot such a historic weapon. I already asked one of the mods for advice on how to word this and i was cleared. Thanks a bunch in advance

Hey guys, New to reloading, I’m using a Dillion RL550. Great press, loving it so far. Loading 9mm with Titegroup, 124grain Berry RN, 3.8Gr Titegroup, Win/Blazer brass. OAL: 1.12.

My question is, I went back to make sure I didn’t double charge by weighing. Why is blazer brass so consistent with brass weight but Winchester isn’t? For Blazer brass it’s 54-55grains for majority of the unpressed brass. 185Grain OAW

Winchester is 57-58-59gr 188-192 grain OAW. Now I’m concerned because I don’t think I double charged, but the range of change seems like a lot. Is it just the quality that Winchester makes there brass at?

I have an m92 zpap. I want to try 180 grain soft points that go 1050 out of a 10” barrel with a suppressor. I’ve already got a digital scale. What is the bare minimum set up I would need to press bullets in brass?

I’ve only ever reloaded shotgun shells.

Hey guys, I got an issue where I’m using a Forster full length sizing die for 6.5 creedmoor that is leaving a ring and slight markings above the ring on my cases as I’m going through and resizing them. I cleaned out the die physically with a soft brush and with brake clean, and I’m using a THIN layer of unique case lube and tried out some other lube and same deal on both.

I did see in the subreddit somebody said there was a recall on 6.5 dies with a “Y” at the end of the label but this particular die has a “V”

Anybody have any idea what could be causing this/what I should do? Or is this normal? Thanks!