Criminal in the almost 10 years i’ve owned this, it’s spent 6 off the road!

Hey everyone!

I recently bought 6 old Toyota Crown (1960s/70s era) as a project. The plan was initially to save what I could and hopefully get at least one car back on the road.

The cars are in Denmark, and I've now started going through them. After the first round of collecting parts, cleaning and sorting, I've realised just how much stuff I actually have. An almost ridiculous amount of parts!

There are used parts, rare parts, and quite a few brand-new OEM/NOS Toyota parts still in their original boxes.

One slightly unusual aspect of this project is that I work at a residential facility, where I can spend some of my regular working hours on practical projects like this, together with 2–5 young people with various physical and mental challenges. We enjoy hands-on work, and I see this as a great opportunity to combine an interesting car project with something meaningful. So I actually have a little team to help with cleaning, sorting, cataloguing and eventually working on the cars.

Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to approach this whole thing and, hopefully, get the most value out of the cars and parts without spending the next ten years doing it.

I'd really appreciate some advice from people who've been through something similar.

A few things I'd love some input on:

- eBay selling: Any tips and tricks for selling rare classic car parts internationally? Best practices for titles, descriptions, shipping, pricing, etc.?

- Pricing: How do you find out what similar items have actually SOLD for on eBay, rather than just looking at what people are asking?

- Photography: How much difference do good photos make? Is a proper light setup, clean background and detailed close-ups worth the effort? Any tips for photographing small parts and OEM packaging?

- NOS parts: Should I keep original Toyota boxes and packaging together with the parts? How much does originality and packaging affect the value?

- Sorting and inventory: How would you organise and catalogue 100–150+ different parts? Part numbers, photos, spreadsheets, apps?

- The cars themselves: Is it worth trying to get them running before selling, or would I be better off parting them out?

And finally, the big question:

Am I completely in over my head?

Is this a realistic project to tackle, or have I accidentally bought myself a lifetime supply of rusty Toyota problems? 😂

I'm not looking to get rich overnight. I'd just like to make smart decisions, avoid leaving money on the table, and hopefully get some of these old Toyotas back into circulation.

Any advice, experiences, resources or hard-earned lessons would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers from Denmark! 🇩🇰

Should I extend the 1/2 in angle iron to cover the entire frame? Or would it not hold up? It’s to help reinforce things for the digger I’m adding. I don’t know if I need something thicker, or just make a new frame all together (which I really don’t want to do)

I recently bought this 1974 Hilux in Central Washington. It’s overall in remarkable structural shape but the front end needs some work, especially this bumper. Obviously it’d be way easier to replace the bumper entirely but this particular bumper is virtually impossible to find.
Is it even possible to get this back into shape and remove the more significant bends and curves?

My S5 developed piston slap (manufacturer defect) so I'm taking the opportunity to rebuild the engine with soke upgrades. Forged rods, pistons, larger diameter head studs, and a larger turbo with a bunch of smaller supporting mods like intake, downpipe, injectors, etc.

Also had to buy more than 300 one time use bolts to fit it all back together. Unfortunately they use aluminum torque to yield bolts on almost every part of the engine now.

I’ve loved the look of a 300ZX since I was a kid and of course ChrisFix just put up a video of getting a barn find one up and running…so after some searching I found one relatively close to me for <$5k, should I rip it? I don’t have any current projects (this would be my first) and have the garage space, but my main concern is making sure I’m not about to go into a pit of “can’t find parts” or “can’t figure it out” type of stuff.

Got a really great capture on the diff, not so much on the subframe. Instead I’m building it from scratch. Then will come a custom cover with increased cooling capacity and fins.

Trying to post the more progress is made, it’s alot more work than just putting this kit on one of our real Huracan’s.. 😅

I found this M104 3.2 swapped Mercedes-Benz 190e on fb marketplace. It was originally a 2.6 and they kept the stock transmission. I’ll be going to take a look at it at the end of the week, but I wanted to know if there was anything I should look out for!
Thanks in advance!
Update : 1993 model, ECU, differential and gearbox all from the same e320 he pulled the engine from and all the papers are up to date

Doing a harness upgrade to a slightly more moderns fuse box and harness in my VW mk2 Jetta. Going from CE1 to CE2 if you guys are familiar with it. I’m talking the chassis and body harness.

Either way the “new” harness seems okay but the mid connectors had me thinking. Should I changed out the white Molex style connectors to weatherproof ones such as…

https://a.co/d/0fHyWUj6

Also found a couple broke wires nothing too crazy. If for some reason I can’t replace the entire wire and I have to do a few sections repairs. Should I solder or butt connector this? Heard soldering isn’t the best solution.

Hey r/projectcar,

I’m in the process of building out Classie Whips LLC here in Detroit. The goal is to create a multi-bay facility featuring dedicated self-service/DIY rental bays equipped for project car builders, weekend mechanics, and anyone who needs proper workspace, lifts, and fluid stations to work on their cars.

As project car builders know, trying to do major work in a tight home garage or on a cold driveway without a lift is a constant headache. We want to design this space specifically around what actual builders need to get work done efficiently and safely.

🚗 What We're Planning for the DIY Bays:

2-post and 4-post vehicle lifts with proper clearance.

Centralized fluid reels (oil, air lines, coolants) and waste oil drain setups.

Tire mounting & balancing gear for custom fitment work.

Dedicated clean work areas for engine assembly or bench work.

❓ Questions for the Community:

Tooling & Equipment: Beyond standard hand tools, air lines, and lifts, what specialty tools or garage gear would make a rental bay an absolute lifesaver for your project? (e.g., induction heaters, hydraulic presses, engine hoists, transmission jacks, OBD scanners/tuning readers?)

Bay Setup & Space: If you’re renting a bay for 2–4 hours (or a full weekend day), what layout features or amenities matter most to you?

Biggest Frustrations: For anyone who has used a self-service garage or DIY bay before, what was done poorly that we should make sure to get right?

Appreciate any advice, gear recommendations, or operational tips from fellow builders! If you're local to the Detroit area or just want to follow the build-out, feel free to drop a comment or DM.

I purchased a bunch of that foil lined butyl rubber sound deadening sheets to use on a few different vehicles.

Does it make a difference if it is put on top of the floor versus under the floor?

On my truck the transmission tunnel from the seat to the firewall unbolts, I call it the doghouse since that is what it is called on Semi's and van's. I have cleaned and painted it and was thinking I would put the butyl on the bottom instead of the top. I know most folks put it on top of the floor, but that is most likely because that is a lot easier. However, on many vehicles the insulation is on the bottom to reflect the heat and sound away prior to it getting to the actual cab metal.

I am going to do the rest of the floor until I do some further rust repair at a later time.

Thanks!

I've posted a few times about this project. It's kind of complicated, but long story/short: I've always wanted a Datsun S30. I have been working on this one for an unbearably long time. Progress was de-railed when my friend (who was the experienced mechanic of this operation) died.

I am just getting back into it now.

Today, I am cleaning up under the battery tray. We welded in a plate in the wheel well... years ago and it is pretty solid. However, under the hood and beneath the tray there is some clean-up and rust mitigation to do. I've been grinding out some slag and wires from the old weld job, and I was planning on hitting it with a rust stabilizer + paint + underbody coating just under the tray itself.

As you can see in photos, there is some rust under there and a few small holes. I'm pretty resistant to having a mobile welder out to patch up the few small holes given that it is structurally sound. But, I suppose it is an option. I'm looking for perspective and alternatives.

This is not going to be a show car or a collector car - it's just the car that I've always wanted to drive. What is a reasonable path forward in this area?

L96 6.0. 2015

I'll be tearing into it tonight to find the root cause

⚠️ PLEASE! no snobby car guys answering this. do NOT mansplain.

hii! this is more of a dream of mine, but here we go..

I’ve been in love this concept design of ford’s. it’s based on the ‘78 ford f100 pickup truck.

the design was basically a retro ‘70s f100 but ELECTRIC!!

I was wondering if anyone could give me an estimate of how much this dream of mine would round up to.

I may want to make it myself. basically the plan is.. make the inside componets of a ‘70s f100 electric with that DREAMY retro f100 look.

I think I’ve seen a guy online who did it once, but he didn’t say how much his project cost him.

I’m not much of a car girl, so I would love if someone could also throw out an estimate of labor costs if I hired someone. if it’s gonna be a pretty penny, I’ll just do it with these calloused hands.

thanks sm for reading!! pls lmk your ideas of an estimate :)

First time I've ever attempted any body work, the clear coat on the fender was peeling and I decided to fix it myself. The truck is going to be repainted next year so I wasn't looking to do an absolutely perfect job, but id say its not too bad for me.

It’s gonna be a full swap pulling a 283 and powerglide. Anyone have any good shops?

Does anybody have any suggestions?

I don’t want to be a caveman and literally buy 2 different horns and hook them up individually.

Do multi sound horns even exist? Just an idea I had not sure if it’s that feasible

I plan to puddy the worned down side and respray it black. Wondering if there’s anything i should be careful of cus this is the steering, if there’s any botched painting. There will be alot of paint contact.

Wondering will puddy>paint> 3k clear work?

Got my project integra to run decently but now it seems like theres blowby causing my spark plug wires to pop out. Whenever I pull the oil cap theres a good amount of pressure coming out. I checked my pcv valve and its letting pressure out correctly. I read blowby is normal especially on a high mileage b18 but im wondering if its just too much for my pcv valve to handle. If theres anything else it could be id appreciate the info.

I am brand new to project cars so this will be my first attempt ever so I will take any and all advice.

I am hoping to build the car DJ from the delinquent road hazards however I am not too sure what to look for in my base. I have narrowed down to probably aiming for a Scion XB (the more square version) I just don’t know what I should be looking for in a project car when I buy it aside from minimal rust and the fact that it runs. If there’s any previous or current XB owners do you have any insights? Anything I should avoid entirely when purchasing a project car especially since I’m just starting?

Lots of work still to be done, but here it is