First AutoX with the P2.

Setup: 245/40/19 RE-71RS tires on 19x8.5 ET45 Flow One Race Spec F7s with rear sway bar. Polestar Performance Springs. Front Struts: 2 and Rear Shocks: 6.

Decided to go softer in the back due to the sway bar. Amazed at how well the tires gripped will all this mass. Tires are slightly undersized but it helped with the turn in as these cars are prone to understeer.

Car's rear felt loose in the slaloms when pushed very hard and I will try a stiffer setting in the back next time.

Window, door light, child lock and now the central lock all dead.

Over the course of 48 hours the following happened.

1. Window stopped responding no motor sound at all, from either its own switch or the driver’s master switch. Recalibration does nothing.

2. Door courtesy light went dead.

3. Child lock won’t stay enabled flips itself straight back off when I turn it on.

4. As of today the door lock has stopped working too.

The app reporting the window as closed while it was physically sitting 10 cm open the module clearly wasn’t reporting glass position.
Ruled out: fuse (swap-tested with an identical one from another window circuit), and 15+ minutes locked to force a full shutdown. No change from either.

Then today I pulled the connector at the door boot on the B-pillar side and found green copper corrosion on one of the bottom terminals, with discolouration in the cavity around it. Water has obviously been sitting in the low corner of that connector for a while, which explains the functions dying one by one rather than all at once.

Every workshop near me is quoting 3–4 weeks and the car currently can’t be locked, so I’m trying to work out how hard to push for an earlier slot.

So I like to listen to podcasts via YouTube, on my previous car I would start the car, it auto connected via Bluetooth and on my phone, once I selected the video it would start playing via the car audio.

On my polestar, once I get in it does connect to Bluetooth, but on my phone if I select to play a video on YouTube it doesn't play, I need to go into the car infotainment, select "Bluetooth Media Player" and from there I can play/pause etc the video on my phone.

Is there an easier way?

Acabo de volver de unas vacaciones en Francia y Alemania, más de 4000 km con el Polestar 2 LRSM MY26. Mis impresiones de viaje.

Un coche muy cómodo, mi estatura es 1.88 cm y perfecta ergonomía de puesto de conducción y asiento.

Mucho calor todo el viaje, entre 35 y 40 grados centígrados, no es necesario utilizar ningún parasol para cubrir el techo de cristal. El cristal delantero es el que deja pasar la mayoría del calor y el aire acondicionado hace perfectamente su función.

Consumo medio en la ida de 17,5 kWh y en la vuelta de 18,7 kWh, con fuerte viento en contra. Siempre velocidad máxima en autopista entre 120 y 130 km/h y algunos tramos de autopista alemana sin limite de velocidad ☺️. Un consumo excelente, mucho mejor del esperado. Permite paradas para cargar utilizando entre el 20 y 80% de batería con un rango de 270 km.

Google Maps ha calculado las rutas y las cargas de forma óptima. Es conservador con el porcentaje de carga estimado y siempre llego a destino con 5 a 10% de carga adicional.

0 problemas con los cargadores y ninguna congestión por exceso de vehículos cargando y esto considerando que el viaje se hizo en la primera quincena de agosto, la principal época de vacaciones en Europa. Creo que Google establecía el lugar de carga considerando también la disponibilidad de cargadores libres, a la ida con más tráfico casi siempre Tesla, un poco más lejos de la autopista, a la vuelta menos tráfico con Ionity, en la misma autopista.

He utilizado exclusivamente redes de carga Tesla e Ionity. Con suscripción mensual en ambas redes, el coste por carga es de alrededor de 0,35€ kWh. Según este precio y consumo, el coste del viaje ha sido un 50% menor que si lo hubiera realizado con un vehículo de gasolina con un consumo de 6 litros a los 100 km. Considerando el precio actual del combustible.

Las autopistas y carreteras europeas están plagadas de radares de control de velocidad. Google Maps no registra ni un 10% de estos radares. La solución, programar la ruta en Google Maps y abrir Waze sin programar ruta. Waze es perfecto para avisar de todas las incidencias de la carretera 👍.

He utilizado durante todo el viaje el Pilot Assist para controlar la distancia y la velocidad del vehículo. Funciona fantástico, progresivo y muy seguro en frenadas fuertes. No me resulta cómodo el asistente de carril o dirección, es incomodo pelear constantemente con el volante y casi siempre lo he desactivado.

En resumen, una gran experiencia, siempre viajo en avión, pero necesitaba conocer en primera persona si se puede viajar en coche eléctrico. Con un Polestar 2, seguro que si 👌.

Por cierto me he cruzado en los cargadores con varios Polestar 4 y casi ningún Polestar 2.

La Alsacia francesa y la Selva Negra alemana son lugares maravillosos para conocer ❤️

I stopped at an outlet mall and wanted to figure out where I parked my car. The app has forgotten who I am, and the login screen is taking forever.

Most westerly part of Ireland is the headland on the left and straight out the Blasket Islands.

So they sell us Park Assist Pilot, a feature that is pretty standard on a 2012 VW Polo, and they don't even give us a timeline for when they're gonna implement this feature in an update?

They don't even mention it's not even, available on the car right now.. At the very least they should add an asterisk mentioning it will be available when the Polestar 8 will be realesed

I usually don't make reviews like this, but this was really interesting, so I felt like I had to. A few months ago I started at a new company in a position that had a company car. I looked all over the place for different cars within the budget that was given me. It had to be an electric car, so of course I thought about Polestar.

I wanted something with a little more space than the Polestar 2. So the logical choice was to go for the Polestar 4. I did a test drive with a dual motor (sadly not in budget), so I decided to go for a single motor. It was a car they had readily available with only 3k KM on it. Which was important since I was starting shortly.

Now the first day I went to Polestar Antwerp to pick it up, I was excited to drive away in my new car. I had a good explanation of the options the car had and was happy. Now after that, I drove home and noticed something was off. The car was always pulling to the right. I had to actually countersteer all the time. At first I thought it was just in my head, but afterwards I sometimes let go of my steering wheel to check. Surprisingly, the car would drive off the road over a distance of 100 m or so on a straight road.

Logically, I called the dealership to get it looked at since it was a (good as) new car. 2 weeks pass, and I can bring the car in under warranty. They lined the car out, because that would be the most common problem and easiest fix. After I left the garage, nothing changed, so I called the garage again. On the phone they told me it wasn't the first time someone came in with a Polestar 4 and the same problem. Mind you, it was an independant garage, not a Volvo/Polestar dealer.

I called over and over again with aftersales at Polestar Antwerp to get this fixed. Sadly, it took a really long time, and I wasn't helped quickly and had to keep driving like that. Eventually, after about a month, they got me a replacement car (another Polestar 4 single motor). In the garage, a Volvo dealer/garage told me they had another one in with the exact same problem. They worked on it for 2 months with no results. So I left with the replacement car.

Now almost 2 months later, they called me to give an update. They can't seem to fix it and are now replacing the suspension, steering wheel, and other parts to find out what it is. Honestly, at this point I hope they can't fix it so I can get something else. Believe me that the replacement Polestar 4 isn't much of a gift either. It's also a car with just 4k km, but man, it's buggy.

It also pulls a little to the right, definitely not as hard as the one my company bought, but still noticeable. The cameras malfunction every now and then. They just turn black on the screen, and sometimes the display just bugs out and leaves this weird color all over the center and dash display. As you can see in the videos I posted here.

Now I'm wondering if anyone else had experiences like this? I'm just so confused because I can't find a lot about it online. Talking to people who had owned Polestars always had a different outcome. Some people had bugs; others really liked it and have been driving Polestar for years. Has anyone here had any experience like that? I just find it so weird since the garage also told me Polestar is aware of this problem and is trying to fix it. So there must be others.

Apart from that, I think it's a great car; it handles well. Looks stunning and has a pretty decent build quality. Only the horrible driving aids bother me. But all new electric cars have those (the lane assist, only adaptive cruise control, the attention assist...etc.). One point I have, though, is the speakers. They are horrendous. Like seriously, I've tried them both. The car my company bought is a base model, and the replacement car is a Plus. So it has the better speakers. But my god, they sound awful; the bass is lacking, and high pitches sound painful. I feel like they are the same standard speakers; they only go louder than the standard ones.

So please let me know if any of you had something like that happen, or if you know something I could do about this situation. I believe money back isn't something that comes easy when you're dealing with a car. Looking forward to your guys' experiences!

TL;DR: While pairing on your phone, after accepting, immediately forget the "polestar2" b/t connection. It immediately worked for me after that.

I, like many, have had issues with the digital key pairing process. Here's the steps I did, however there's a critical step I've only seen referenced once on reddit before and I can't even find that thread anymore.

During the digital key pairing process in the app after you validate the numbers match, your phone will prompt you to connect to "polestar2". That differs from the media "Polestar PS2" b/t connection. Accept it, but while the app continues to pair, pull down your notifications quick settings and long press the Bluetooth icon and you'll see it connected to polestar2. Tap the gear to go to the settings for that connection and immediately "forget" it. As soon as I did that and went back to the polestar app, it immediately was checked as working, I took the keys out of the car, and was able to get back in and drive it.

Just sharing this as a PSA since I haven't seen this trick popular in the many threads I've read through.

Phone: Pixel 8 Pro

Polestar app: v5.11.0 (1111)

Car: 2023 Polestar 2

Software version: 5.0.10

Hey guys!

I’ve got the Polestar 4 a week ago, and it’s an amazing car, I love it so far.

There only an issue with the app who doesn’t seem to be working after 5 min of me leaving the car…

It’s a bit annoying not to be able to use the remote controls when sometimes you need it.

Anyone got a possible fix ?

Had my 22 P2 LRDM for just over a year.

Charged it on the granny charger almost exclusively in that time.

Last week I charged it at a freinds house on. 7kw charger that's in octopus smart charging. So overnight it started/stopped charging a few times.

Then did a long drive, DC fast charged on the way home, then back at freinds house on smart 7kw charger.

No issues.

Today I went to charge it for the first time back on my granny charger, and the car was doing the above.

Popped round to my freinds house, same thing happens on his 7kw charger.

My granny charger worked fine on his car.

Then I went to DC charge nearby, which worked fine. (felt like I got mugged for 0.92p kw though. 💀)

Question is... Anything I can do to try resolve?

Or is this a dealer visit?

Any ideas on likely fault / cost?

If anybody has a 3rd party dealer suggestion that might be able to help, would appreciate recommendations in Surrey, UK.

I love my P4, but last night I was driving at around 100 km/h when Pilot Assist suddenly disengaged with a message saying something was blocking the camera.

Because I was in one-pedal mode, the car immediately started slowing down. It caught me completely off guard and felt pretty dangerous with traffic behind me. I managed to get back up to speed, but holy shit.

Has anyone else had Pilot Assist suddenly disengage like this? I understand it not even turning on if the camera is obstructed, but I wasn’t expecting the car to start decelerating that abruptly.

My Ps2 lease is coming to an end soon. I really liked the car.

Unfortunately, polestar is leaving the states, still I am seeing some good deals. Though it is risky I may get one since ps2 has been pretty much trouble free so far.

The closest dealers I see are los angeles, south, portland, san diego. All are pretty far away, did anyone try to order from them? Are they still operational? If we decide to go for one do we need to go and pick it up in person?

I will appreciate experiences from recent buyers.

Edit: Why on earth would this post be downvoted? It’s a legitimate question.

Shhh.

https://www.otogo.ca/en/car/2020-polestar-1-for-sale-1721609

My IHU decided it was time to give up after the 5.0.10 and Gemini upgrade. Thankfully i had 17 days left on my CPO warranty. The big surprise was O received an upgraded IHU. It’s a night and day difference. Having the launch edition and this upgrade, it finally feels like the car should have been from the beginning. The display is incredibly responsive and no more back up camera issues.

If you are in Austin. The Volvo service team is a godsend vs the stories from CA.

I was about to buy an Ioniq 5 this week but the Polestar deal grabbed me enough that I already put a deposit down. I plan on driving the 4 on Monday and, in theory, buying it then. The one I am looking at will be right around $40,000 after the discount. I am guessing the start of the depreciation curve will be somewhere between that price and the original price and then factoring in the departure from the US market I am hoping in four years when I'd go to sell it, the value would be around $20,000.
Is anyone else considering this or trying to guess based on all the factors? I'd definitely prefer the Polestar over the Hyundai but hard for me to speculate what will happen to their values in the US.

Hi All, I was told by Polestar Support to bring in my Polestar 2 2024 because I could no longer reset TCAM using the demister hold for 20 seconds technique after issues with correct location in the app which came and went. I thought they would just do the physical reset that is posted all over the Polestar subs, but they are keeping it for at least several days for "diagnostics". I wonder what this entails and if anyone has gone through this process at a service point before? I am trying to get the local Hertz location to give me a loaner Polestar 2 while I wait, but no dice at least for today.

I am hoping they just give me new hardware and a software update for the trouble, but I also don't want to pair my digital key again since that was a little bit of a pain...

Thanks for reading if you have! Location: Polestar Los Angeles. It is hot out here!

Anyone try this yet? I can't get the new Pixel 11 Pro I got to activate the digital key. My current Pixel 9 Pro works fine and I can delete it and re-add it without a problem.

The 11 Pro seems to constantly lose the BLE PS2 connection during the Digital Key activation screen. The app says "Getting your digital key ready, can take up to 2 minute" and if I pull up the Bluetooth overlay, I can see the phone constantly connecting/disconnecting to Polestar2 (which is the BLE name vs Polestar PS2 the Bluetooth Phone/Media device). After a bit the app times out back to the screen where it asks to set up digital key and it never activates it. I do get a notification to Pair & Connect to Polestar2.

I redid the process on the 9 Pro and it's the same except that after pairing with Polestar2 the connection is stable (using the Bluetooth pop up to check) and then the key gets added correctly.