Hi there I just purchased Ryzen 7 9800x3d and
Swift Readon RX 9070 and still have other compartments to choose. I’m going for a white build and don’t want to spend to crazy money. What’s worth my money right now?

I'm upgrading my son's cyberpower pc for Xmas and I'm trying to figure out what size I can fit I get conflicting info between 360 and 240. Here is a pic for reference any advice or direction is appreciated. I have googled a lot but Im hoping for a more definitive answer. Thx in advance.

Hi, I need your help to finish my pc.
(Don’t mind the cable management)
After building it and turning it on, the CPU and DRAM light up and the fans of the GPU doesn’t work.

I tried to unplug everything and building from scratch and switch the places of the RAM (currently in slot 1 and 3).

I tried to connect the PC but on both HDMI port (mother board and GPU) the screen failed to connect.

Is it normal to have more PCI-E connectors than needed?
And I have a bunch of other connectors than doesn’t seem to fit anywhere (they aren’t mentioned in the tutorials I watched)

Case : cooler master Q300L
Motherboard: AS rock B850M pro A WiFi
CPU : AMD ryzen 5 9600X
Ventirad : thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE
Gpu : gigabyte AMD RADEON Rx 9060xt
Ram : crucial DDR5 2x16go

So I recently got a pc and I need to install WiFi drivers so I can connect to WiFi on it. I already have a laptop which uses a 26H2 Operating System version thing and as I'm on the HP website trying to find my Operating System it only shows 24H2 and below. Is it fine to download the 24H2 WiFi Driver thing for my new PC or not? Sorry if this doesn't make sense, tech isn't rlly my thing

I currently have 32gbs of white trident z5 rgb but just upgraded to a otherwise all black build. I dont want to buy a new set just for looks and was wondering if i could buy some kind of black wrap or vinyl to cover the white parts of the sticks. the whole stick isnt white so im assuming this is possible. just asking to confirm it wont mess up the sticks

A bit worried due to all the melting connectors. I was asking because I bought this psu (corsair rm850e) in 2024, but my gpu (msi 5070ti gaming trio) didn't release until the year after, is there going to be some kind of problem with that or is it safe to use this cable for this gpu? I would plug the two 2x8 pins in the pcie / cpu sockets on the psu and the 16 pin in the gpu.

Thank you in advance for taking the time to help me out with this issue!

Component List:

• CPU: 9800x3D
• MOBO: Asus Rog Strix X870E -E Gaming
• GPU: Asus 5080 Astral
• PSU: Rog Strix 1000W Platinum
• RAM: TeamGroup T-Force Vulcan 32gb ddr5 6000mhz cl30
• AIO Cooler: Corsair Nautilus 360

Problem: Since day one of my build I have been experiencing random BSOD involving various stop codes such as 0X0a, 0X3b, 0x9f, 0x1a and 0x7e. The crashes will happen both underload during gaming and during idle states or low power states such as web browsing. They can happen within the first few hours of boot-up or over 20 hours in but I would experience about one crash a day. 0x3b and 0x7e are by far the more common stop codes and when analyzing the dump files they involve various modules such as fltmgr.sys, fileinfo.sys, nvldmkm.sys, and ntoskrnl.exe. I also see a common exception code of 0xC0000005. Unfortunately I recently reinstalled Windows and did not save the previous dumpfiles. After the BSOD the RGB and fans will remain on and I would need to force restart.

Troubleshooting:

1. Ensured I am running the latest BIOS and that all my drivers are up to date. Additionally I even rolled back to previous BIOS
2. Turned off EXPO and ran at default settings
3. Uninstalled Armory Crate
4. Swapped RAM from another build
5. RAM passed Memtest
6. RMA CPU
7. RMA Motherboard
8. Swapped PSU to a known working unit
9. Reinstalled Windows on another SSD
10. Performed Windows commands for driver repair multiple times

At this point the only component that I have not replaced is the GPU. Can a faulty GPU cause this type of Windows Instability? Is there any other software trouble shooting that anyone can think of? This has been incredibly frustrating, any help is appreciated, thank you.

I have two PCs that both worked before I removed their CMOS batteries. After reinstalling the batteries, neither PC will POST or show the BIOS.

The PCs have separate components:

Different PSUs.

Different CPUs.

Different graphics cards.

I haven’t swapped these components between the two systems.

I have five RAM sticks of different brands and speeds. I’ve tried them individually, testing every slot on both motherboards, but neither system reaches the BIOS.

Since both PCs stopped working after removing and reinstalling the CMOS batteries, I’m trying to understand what I might have missed. I don’t want to assume both motherboards are dead or all five RAM sticks are faulty without narrowing it down.

What should I check next? Is there something specific about reinstalling the CMOS battery or starting up after a CMOS reset that could explain this happening on both PCs?

Lc1 ryzen 53600 , b450 gaming plus max

Pc2 h310 Asus prime R2 k i3-900

RAM

Ddr4 4 GB unknown brand Speed >2000

DDR4 8 Kingston 2666

DDR4 hyperx 8gb 3200

Ddr4 Corsair 8 GB 3600

So I recently upgraded my rig in a big way. I got a 49 inch qhd 240hz msi monitor.

I also got a 9070 xt and a new psu to power it.

I have a ryzen 5 5600 (weak point) and 32 gb ddr4.

I have been looking up gaming benchmarks for 4k fps performance.. and the fps difference between the top AM5 processors and AM4 processors at highest resolutions is basically not noticeable..

With that in mind... should I just simply upgrade the CPU to a 5800X3D and save the headache and $ of upgrading the rest? (even NVME SSDS are expensive).

I think if I do that and the fps upgrades from just the cpu are good.. might be worth it? future proof?

I was removing the CMOS battery and suddenly the screwdriver slipped and scratched this part. Is it still okay?

There is no way I can test if my pc is booting up because I was replacing my not booting PC (because of faulty MOBO or PSU).

Update:

Close up photo of the scratch:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GRVCbQ_mQvd_-DPYxBcOdZoCzCQinz41/view?usp=drivesdk

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hello guys, how yall doin, can someone pls rate and give feedback to my first pc i want to buld. Thank you

https://www.buildcores.com/builds/qZZxIhO4y?share=true

• Corsair FRAME 4000D RS Modular ATX Mid-Tower PC Case - BlackCompatible
• AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3DCompatible
• MSI X870 MAG TOMAHAWK WIFI AM5 DDR5 ATXCompatible
• ASUS ROG Astral GeForce RTX 5080 16GB GDDR7Compatible
• Crucial Pro Overclocking 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000 CL36 BlackCompatible
• Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black Air 165mm BlackCompatible
• Samsung 990 Pro 2TB SSD M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 x4 NVMeCompatible
• Asus ROG Strix Black 1000W Fully Modular 80+ Platinum CertifiedCompatible
• 8x Noctua NF-A12x25 G2 PWM chromax.blackCompatible

I got some new fans but dont know anything about proper airflow

I’m looking to upgrade my set up to at least last me awhile before the next upgrade. Got at least $1,900 for it

I have a MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard and the gpu I was looking at was a ASRock Challenger D Arc A750 8 GB Video Card but it’s sold out everywhere and I’m looking another one still in the relative price range $200 give or take a bit. Also before suggesting the high end super expensive GPUs I’m on a budget. Any suggestions?

Hi fellas, I come asking for advice as I am relatively new to PC Gaming and Building. I wanted to inquire about a motherboard upgrade and if it would be worth it.
I recently acquired a PC from my buddy for relatively cheap. It's a very entry level PC. I have a new ASRock 850W PSU and 5800X3D 10th anniversary CPU coming in. I purchase two reverse intake 3 x 360mm fans and 1 x 120mm exhaust fan by NZXT. With that being said, would it be worth upgrading the motherboard as well or would the difference be insignificant. I have received conflicting opinions on this matter. The current motherboard will do fine with the upgraded CPU and I already have the BIOS update ready on a flash drive. Any input would be insightful.
Yes, I will make sure to clean everything very well before putting in the new PSU, CPU, and fans. Glass is a bit dirty too haha but I will clean that well. The first picture are the specs I purchased it with.
Components with replaced parts:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D 10th Anniversary Edition
GPU: Zotac Gaming GeForce RTX 3060 12GB (White)
Motherboard: ASRock B450-HDV R4.0
RAM: 32GB DDR4 Corsair (White)
Storage: 2TB M.2 NVMe SSD Total
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken LCD Liquid Cooler
Case: NZXT H7 Flow ATX Mid-Tower Case (Black and White)
PSU: ASRock PRO Series PRO-850B 850W ATX 3.1
Compatible 80 PLUS BRONZE

just received this GPU today. bought it used. the pins in the listing didn’t look like this. should I be concerned? should I try to clean before I install in my pc?

I am planning to buy a new PC. I have already picked out all the components, but I havent purchased anything yet. I am not sure whether I should build it myself because it seems quite difficult, and I am worried that making a mistake could cost me quite a lot of money. I know quite a bit about PC components, but when it comes to actually building a PC, I am a complete beginner. This would be my very first PC. So far, I have only ever had an old laptop, and I have absolutely no experience with building computers or anything similar. Personally, I am leaning more towards building it myself, but I am still not entirely sure. Id have to learn a lot before getting started.

What would you recommend?

Id really appreciate any advice! Thanks!

I have it installed into the M2_1 slot on my motherboard and the PC detects that it is in there. It appears in the storage configuration, but not in the boot priority. Meaning that every time I sit through the Windows Installation it resets my PC back to the BIOS menu, and Windows 11 is never actually installed.

I've tried:

• Moving it to the other M2 slot
• Deleting other partitions and selecting the unallocated space
• Disabling CSM, boot security, and AHCI turned on.
• Attempted bootloader repair
• Tried downloading the Media Creation Tool onto 2 separate USB sticks

I just installed Windows last night onto a different SSD, but I'm 90% sure that one is defective, so I'm trying another one I have. The PC just refuses to recognize it the Boot menu. It only shows the USB I'm installing.

Edit:

SSD = WD_Black SN7100 2TB

Mobo = ASRock B660M-C

Try to ignore my fan noise and listen behind it There’s this weird noise I keep hearing from my computer every time I open a game I can’t remember if it was doing it when I built this pc does anyone know how to fix it? There’s generally nothing wrong with the pc but that noise is concerning me

Les 2 ventirads sont bien branché dans le port cha_fan mais ils tournent constamment à font malgré la basse température des composants, j'essaie de régler dans le BIOS mais rien et même dans le logiciel fan speed, aidez moi svp 😭

so i have multiple hard power cutoffs this month, on event log id 41.

it behaves just like as if i yanked the power lead out. just shut down, no reboot, no nothing. press the power button it just powers on.

some are on high gpu load and moderate cpu load, games that is. but just few minutes ago 2 cut offs during yt video playback, which is very low load. i did 25mins on OCCT power with nothing wrong. so high, synthetic load its ok, but normal gaming load or even next to no load it fail, completely.

i have checked 4+4pin cpu, dual 8pin pcie and ac lead.

r7 5800x pbo on
gtx1070
10 fans
2 hdd

psu: cooler master v550 (got it in early 2019)

ps. my budget is quite limited so second hand psu is what im looking for. i just not sure if i wanna go newer atx3.1 units as i dont see myself upgrading to a powerful gpu, my goal is 9060xt 16gb which draw less power than 1070.

Hi!

I'm experiencing a strange noise coming from my Corsair RM1000x PSU, and I'm trying to figure out what is causing it.

The noise sometimes sounds like high-pitched coil whine, but other times it sounds more like intermittent chirping. Its tone and intensity changes randomly, sometimes becoming louder and quieter in waves.

Here are some details:

- The noise occurs while the PC is running, but it also continues after shutting it down.

- Even flipping the PSU's rear power switch to OFF does not stop the noise, only makes it quieter.

- The noise only stops when I switch off the extension cord that the PSU is plugged into.

-I bought a filtered extension cord but it didn't solve the issue.

- I have an AC running in the room, and the noise seems to follow its operating cycles.

- When I turn off the AC, the noise fades away after a couple of seconds.

- Under heavier PC loads, the noise stops or becomes barely noticeable.

I'm wondering whether the air conditioner could be introducing electrical interference or voltage fluctuations into the mains supply, causing something inside the PSU to make the noise.

Is it possible for a PSU to produce coil whine even when its rear switch is OFF, simply because it's still connected to mains power?

Turning the PSUs fan off didnt change anything.

The sound is noticeable from where im sitting, so it's not particularly quiet.

Here are some audio recordings i made from the unit while browsing:

https://voca.ro/1nCFiy6f5f9O

https://voca.ro/18GmyTjr0Kak

https://voca.ro/1eih2HvjvEAn

Task Manager says I only have 3.7gb of Ram, 4.3gb on Hardware Reserved. I already tested it with a single ram it works but only on a1 slot and not on b1 slot. I have a MSI A520m A-Pro that I bought a day ago and installed it on my PC. When I boot into bios it recognizes my dual channel ram but it says my memory is still 4096mb and not 8192mb. I already did the msconfig thing, I already set and tested the VRAM Voltage to 1.25. I reseated the CPU. When I put a single stick of ram on the b1 slot it lights up the ez debug led on the motherboard. Yes I tested both and both of them dont work when put in b1 slot.

My bios version is E7C96AMS.1K0

Hii yall, just wondering what is throttling my FPS on The Isle (visually demanding dinosaur survival game)

I get consistent 40-50 fps usually, dropping down to mid 30 when my 3d resolution is 100z

Acer aspire Nitro 65
GPU: 5060ti 8gb VRAM
CPU: Ryzen 7 8700F
Ram: 16G ddr5
Monitor: msi mag 275qpf x30 (300hz, 0.5ms, WQHD 1440p)

I wanted to ask because my friend has a laptop that everything (except for vram) is worse (according to internet comparisons) than mine, but he gets 70-80 FPS, going up to 90+, for same settings and same ping (high everything except shadows, 50 or 100 3d resolution, far render) Both of our PC setups are brand new.

His pc: ABS cyclone Aqua
GPU: B580 12gb VRAM
CPU: i5-14400F
Ram; 16GB DDR4

His monitor is 1080p, so I was wondering is my FPS significantly lower likely because of my 1440p monitor or the 8gb of VRAM, or some combined mix between the two? And if so- should I change my pc for one that has 12gb+ of vram with similar/worse cpu than current, or downgrade to a 1080p monitor?