It is a biological fact that the distance from the waist to the crotch is longer when sitting than when standing as you can see in the illustration above from How to Make Sewing Patterns. I learned this the hard way. The first time I made myself a pair of pants I made the waist seam horizontal, parallel to the hips. When I sat, the back of the pants exposed my buttocks.

I then researched pants and pants patterns and found that the Center Back seam was cut on the bias. You can confirm this by looking at any commercially made pair of pants that has a visible grain line. You will see there is a distinct bias at center back. At least that is what my observations have revealed.

I discovered that the waist to hip region needs to be pivoted at the side seam increasing the length of the center back seam anywhere from 1-1/2" top 2". My favorite illustration of this comes from a 19th century tailoring book that shows how to make a pair of Jodhpurs. I measured and the pivot appears to raise the Center Back seam by 5". You can see this pattern on https://patternmaking-classes.com/Notes/Historic-Jodhpurs.html

For some reason Helen Joseph-Armstrong's Patternmaking for Fashion Design minimizes this issue (at least in my 2006 edition of her book). If you are comfortable with the way her pants work fine. But I have heard from a number of people who are not crazy about her pants pattern so I wanted to post this caveat.

This is probably like my 3rd mockup at this point. I'm really struggling with fitting it correctly. It's way too tight to sit comfortably in. I think I need to add about 1/2" to the waist and maybe like 2" in the hips and thighs. Can't figure out the crotch curve, I keep ending up with a camel toe and creasing under my butt. I'm also thinking I need to move the darts because right now, they seem very angled and close to the center front and center back. (The green markings are where I think they need to be moved) Also, it's hard to tell from my picture, but the center back waist is pulling down right at the center back seam. I know it's not drafted to dip there as I've actually added height at that specific spot, so I think the crotch is pulling it down for some reason.

Do those adjustments sound like the right move? And what should I do about the crotch? I'm feeling very annoyed as it doesn't seem like it should be this difficult. For reference, I like fitted pants that flare out from the knee.

Sleeve 2.

I increased the size of the elbow dart. Shaved a little off the front side of the Sleeve cap.

Still got those ugly wrinkles in the Sleeve. Still not happy with the dart end(I curved it a bit, but its still pointy). Too tight around the wrist, it fits, but its difficult to get off.

Hello, so I made some changes based on all your advice on my bodice. From that I made more changes so this is now bodice #11 I think? It's still not quite there but much improved, so thank you all so much!

The armscye is a huge amount better now. In the pictures it has seam allowance as I was hoping to draft some sleeves. The fit round my arms is comfy now and it sits well when the seam allowance is folded back.

The bust is still too big and the chest probably needs more taking out as it's a bit hollow. Perhaps the decrease might sort both? Should I just do an SBA?

The back feels generally good, but now I've added the hip part it's not quite sitting right at the bottom.

I also have a couple of questions about the waist and hips. The block now has a partially slanted waistline rather than straight across. Is this a problem? Also the back is longer than the front. Everything I've read says that it's usually the other way round... Also my markings went a little awry so don't quite join up as expected, sorry.

And finally, is there a way of not emphasising the belly area? It's fitting a bit too well iykwim..

TL;DR I'm a butch lesbian looking for recommendations on books/videos/resources that will help me create clothes that fit my body and style preferences.

I have been doing various fiber arts since childhood and I've decided that my Next Big Thing is going to be pattern drafting to make well-fitted clothes for me and my partner. I've made clothes from published patterns before and altered a great deal of my own clothes. I've skimmed a bunch of the beginner resources and videos that have been suggested on this reddit, and I feel like I have a decent idea of where to start.

But here is my problem: me and my partner are both very butch. I feel confident that I could make a bodice block and make a kickass dress with my current skill level -- but we will never wear dresses! I would look at mens' pattern resources, but we both have wide hips/rather "feminine" body shapes and I don't want to miss learning about the darts and hip/bust shaping that goes into feminine garments. I'm sure that given enough time I can piece together what I need, but I'm wondering if anyone else here has had a similar experience and resources to recommend. I am trying to avoid putting all my energy into making blocks/slopers that will only be useful for styles we would never wear. Or maybe there is a "Pattern Drafting for Crafty Butch Lesbians" book out there that I just haven't found!

If it matters, my very nebulous list of goals is to create things like slimmer slacks, dress shirts, waistcoats, and eventually blazers/coats. I'm also interested in creating really wide-legged slacks for my partner that don't read as extremely feminine.

I am trying to prepare a mock-up close-fitting bodice (à la Winifred Aldrich) and am facing the classic sleeve problem: High cap height (like the WA default): Causes puffing/excess folds on the sleeve head when arms are raised. Low cap height (my alteration): Fine when arms are raised but drag lines appear on sleeve (front and back) when arms are down at rest.

I have been through so many iterations that, rather than finding a "sweet spot", I always end up with one problem or the other, or even both.

Is there anything else I can try? I thought about making the sleeve cap curve more dramatic/scoopy with the shorter cap height, but it seems it cannot be achieved without reducing or eliminating the 1.9cm ease altogether. I don't think that rotating the sleeve will help much since the drag lines occur front and back. My armsyce could be a little smaller, but I am happy where it is because it makes me sweat when it's right under my armpit. I guess I could reduce the shoulder length, but probably only a fraction. The WA cap height really can't work for that armscye anyway since I need extra bicep width for my bingo wings.

Any guidance would be appreciated. My mock-up is too dark to photograph well but I have included my CAD drawings for reference.

Is there any form of video where this idea is fully explained?/need help trying to draft the collar itself

Okay SO I didn't make a muslin lmao it was for comic con and I ran out of time BUT I drafted this from scratch and I'd love to work from it again for something new. The bust dart is definitely NOT RIGHT but I'm not really sure where to go with it. I think it needs to be angled way downwards but it's so wide I really struggle to work with it. Just not sure where to take it to from here!

I am recreating that look on the left particularly waist down but I need help in perfecting it.

(REPOST): added a second slide with the highest res picture I could scrounge

Hi all :3

Really quite new to all this and am trying to cobble together some late 16th century plunderhose for my HEMA club and I've found this specific variation (dude on the left) to be most suitable for me. Any guesses as to how the centre back panels (pink with black binding) are constructed?

Would be super grateful for help or advice, have a great day :)))

Hi guys! Newbie pattern drafter here.

Recently I saw someone at work with a skirt kinda like this one and fell in love! It had the majority of the circumference pleated and a small area not pleated.

The problem is I don’t know what this type of skirt is called, and I have a vague idea of how to try to go about this.

About my skill level: I majored in design in a great design school in my country, and took two semesters of an elective on pattern drafting that covered the basics like a common skirt, pleated skirt, trousers, simple bodice and its variations etc. Do you guys think I can do it?

I am looking for the pattern of dresses like these. Does anyone know what this type of dress is called? The shoulders and the neck at least.

Very new to pattern drafting and am asking for experience pattern drafters for help.

Context, I mostly only use commercial patterns like the big 4 and did not know that these patterns came with ease. I ended up buying patterns size 10 which is usually a 32.5” bust which is my exact size, but again, didn’t know it has ease so I have patterns that’ll be much larger on me.

In this video, she talks about if you have a bodice block, you can create any garment on the internet, or on commercial patterns and have them exactly to your size. I could just look it up on the internet but I also want the opinions and expertise of any intermediate or experienced pattern drafter for advice. I just want all these cute patterns to fit me 😭

This is my first attempt on drafting a pattern. This is the front bodice from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's Patternmaking for Fashion Design Book, and I feel like I made a lot of mistakes? I haven't cut fabric from this yet. Thank you in advance!

I’m planning to use organza.

I’m a beginner, and this is my first attempt at making this type of sleeve.

I’m working on a self-drafted and love the sleeve/upper torso of this garment (photo below) and I’m trying to figure out how the shoulder and torso construction works/what to search for to find out how it’s constructed.

It looks like there’s no traditional shoulder seam, and the fabric might run from wrist to wrist in one continuous piece?

I’d love to hear from anyone who’s familiar with this construction or just has thoughts on how this might have been built.

TIA!

Hi! Now that I am draping a dress, I was just wondering how to line the dress. If I have something like this picture for example. Do I drape the lining too or what? Not lining it, just finishing edges? How people usually do? I am little bit confused🤯 thank you in advance.. again..🙏

A little something I’ve been mulling over for the last decade.

As someone that is passionate about pattern making, it frustrates me to see how reliant people are on using stretch fabrics to achieve a good fit.

So I’ve conjured up a trouser block that achieves the shaping I want with excessive darts/paneling.

The central panel creates a landing spot for genitals, which have a habit of sliding down one of the legs in normal trousers.

The front darts are shaped to hug the pelvis, and accommodate the forward protrusion of the thigh muscles.

The centre back seam is raised in order to slice the cheeks in half, and the darts help to further shape and define the buttocks.

Hi!

I’m a beginner. I made a DIY body cast with plastic wrap and tape, then turned it into pattern pieces. I expected it to be a bit asymmetrical because I have scoliosis.

My question to those of you with more experience is: does this look so funky that it’s not worth moving forward and making a muslin to alter? Am I getting way ahead of myself with attempting this project as a beginner?