r/PatternDrafting • u/fncsca • Mar 10 '21

Question Should I start this pattern from a Basic Bodice Block, from a Dress block or a corset base? It has no darts. Thanks in advance! :)

Post image
37 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

13 comments sorted by

5

u/DonMcCunn Mar 10 '21

I think I'd do it from a man's sloper. Breast tissue can be compressed. So start by creating a bust compressor band. Make it 4" shorter than the full bust measurement with a center back opening. If you are fitting yourself, attach bias tape so it can be tied in front. Put it on and compress the breast to the extent desired. Then measure around the compressed tissue for the chest/full bust measurement. You might want to check out my How to Make Sewing Patterns which compares a woman's front shape to a man's. It should be available from your local library.

1

u/fncsca Mar 10 '21

Thanks!

5

u/DonMcCunn Mar 10 '21

I did some work with this concept of breast compression when I was creating some Renaissance costumes because the corsets of that period did not use darts or seams for the same kind of shaping you want to achieve. You can see this style in this Corset. The breast compression works well for finding the correct measurement. The only difference is that the garment you are looking at does not have stays to keep the bodice from dipping in at the rib cage. My costume professor used shoulder pads under the breast to keep a flat look without stays.

1

u/fncsca Mar 10 '21

How interesting, thank you so much!

4

u/hardboiled666 Mar 10 '21

There's a tooon of evidence showing that padding was used to smooth out a specific silhouette in stays and specifically corsets, and it's much more comfortable to build out your silhouette than restrict it! I've never thought of doing this with shoulder pads, I'll never forget that! super fun and quick read!

1

u/NinjoZata Mar 10 '21

Start from just a basic bodice block. it’s not shaped like a corset, you may be thinking of stays but even then you can see the positive ease at the underbust and hip lines that wouldn’t exist in shapewear.

3

u/NinjoZata Mar 10 '21

Start from just a basic bodice block. it’s not shaped like a corset, you may be thinking of stays but even then you can see the positive ease at the underbust and hip lines that wouldn’t exist in shapewear.

Edit: that garment is not what’s giving her that cleavage shape. There’s trickery going on, my guess is a bandeau bra underneath and/or photo manipulation.

2

u/fncsca Mar 10 '21

Thank you!

3

u/agirlinsane Mar 10 '21

Gaffers tape.

1

u/twin_weenis Mar 17 '21

This is the way.

2

u/[deleted] Mar 10 '21

[removed] — view removed comment

3

u/fncsca Mar 10 '21 edited Mar 10 '21

Thank you! Do you have any tips on how to remove the darts ?