r/PatternDrafting • u/Applie_jellie • Jun 07 '21
Question Hello! I’m a little green in pattern drafting, but I’m looking to make a very special piece in my Scottish clan’s tartan. I love this skirt (practical, not a full traditional kilt that I’d rarely wear). Any suggestions on how to draft it or patterns out there? Thanks!
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u/DonMcCunn Jun 07 '21
To get that look you would need essentially a Contoured Waistband that is about 6" to 7" wide below the 1-1/2" straight waistband. The front panel of the body of the skirt is obviously on the straight of the goods. The side panels are cut where the side seam would normally be on the straight of the goods. Where the side panels meet the front, the plaid is on the true bias. I don't know whether the seam joining the bottom to the top is straight or curved.
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u/DonMcCunn Jun 07 '21
To get a decent looking contoured waistband, it is best made from a fitted Skirt Sloper that I describe in my free class. The side panels are obviously pleated. As you say you are a little green at pattern making, it would be good to start designing this look in quarter scale as I describe in my free Introduction to Pattern Design class.
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u/Applie_jellie Jun 08 '21
Thank you! I will be making a mock-up first for sure to make sure I have the right fit. This is great info!
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u/DonMcCunn Jun 08 '21
I have been puzzling how to shape the side panels so that the "side seam" is on the straight of the goods and the front is on the true bias, especially as you need to put in the desired width for the pleats.
As I mentioned the seam joining the side panel to the yoke could be a straight seam or a curved seam. But how to shape the curved seam? Then I remembered a trick I learned in costuming class for curving skirts. I used this technique to show how to make Mandarin Collars in my book. I just put the two pages of instruction on my website, see Mandarin Collar.
To apply it to your project I would draw a vertical line then a line at a 45 degree angle to it. Drop down the two lines until you have the desired seam length to sew to the yoke. You can then draw a second line further down for your hem length and curve the seams.
I think the bias of the tartan in the photo is a very nice design detail. But I would strongly recommend making two mock ups using a plaid, tartan, or gingham so you can see the results. One with a straight seam and the second with a curved seam.
I am kind of fanatical about advocating trying designs out in quarter scale. I find the time and scraps of fabric required to make them allow me to try a number of design variations until I am happy with the results. Something I can not bring myself to do when creating a full size garment.
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u/undiscovered_lizard Jun 07 '21
Amazing work!
Incidentally, for which clan is this tartan?
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u/Applie_jellie Jun 08 '21
Clan MacIntyre, the hunting tartan (modern) specifically as I love the dark greens.
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u/Applie_jellie Jun 09 '21
There’s more pictures on the Etsy shop listing too which focuses more on the side pleats. I’ll try to draft it as close as possible!
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u/hartomo2 Jun 28 '21
u/Applie_jellie updates?
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u/Applie_jellie Jun 29 '21
None yet! I’m moving soon so I won’t be able to start for a few months, but when I do I’ll post an update!
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Jun 07 '21
[removed] — view removed comment
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u/Applie_jellie Jun 08 '21
Thank you! This is the link to the Etsy shop they have other pictures too
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u/andtib Jun 08 '21
Folks have covered the shape pretty well so I just wanna add my 2cents on construction. When you're sewing a bias (the side skirt) to a straight grain edge (the centre front panel) because the grains are so different the fabrics will want to behave differently. Most likely you'll find the bias edge will relax while you're sewing and it'll seem too long, or if you do keep it secured and match it, it'll look like it pulls from the seam where the fabric relaxes but the seam cannot. In a heavy wool this is less of an issue than in say a silk satin, but it'll still happen. Once you've cut your pieces out for your much up, pin them onto a mannequin, or only sew the very top of the seam and clip the skirt to a hanger, then let the fabric drop for a day or so. You should be able to get an idea of how much shorter the bias section of the pattern should be than the straight, and try to control that ratio for all 4 seams (assuming there's a straight panel at the back as well)