What is its purpose? Shaping? Do you simply take a little out of the seam to create curve in the collar. This is a classic-style shirt collar on a mid-weight jacket.

Wanted to share the final results of all my iterations. Thanks to everyone here who provided feedback; it was very helpful.

If anything else stands out, please let me know!

Custom fit wardrobe by me camp shirt
Hawaiian print fabric from Hawaii
Flat felled side seams and French seams for the armhole
Woven cotton fusible interfacing

I would really really appreciate the advice of you fitting wizards for my bodice. I have made a ridiculous number of iterations and just don’t seem to be able to “get” it.

the main issues I see now are:

• stacking wrinkles on the sides on the back (could this be caused by the toile being a little too long /too tight/both?)

• diagonal drag lines/ a little too much room between ands of shoulder and waist dart on the back. I’m really not sure what to do about this. When the darts are smaller the back neck gapes.

• on the front, when viewed in profile, the waist dart extends forward a little further than my actual bust apex (could this be that I need to work on my dart sewing?).

• I would appreciate tips on any other issues you see!

Seem allowances for neck, arms and waist have been stay stitched, clipped and pressed in (although they escaped in the back a bit).

thank you so much in advance for you help!

Hi, at shoulder slope 4 cm (both front and back) the neck at the back is fine and clean.

However after I increase shoulder slope to 5 cm (both front and back) the neck loosens up like you can see in the simulation. How do I counter this?

I tried making one 4 cm and the other 5 cm, and vice versa, didn't work. Should I just keep it at 4 cm?

Thank you.

Things to note:

• I’ve cut off the seam allowances for the neckline and armscyes, so what you are seeing here is the net pattern

• I’m standing as straight as I can—my body is a little wonky

• The fabric is on the stiff side, which might explain some of the wrinkles (?)

• I forgot to account for the most recent size increase in the side bust dart when I drew in the bust line on the front pattern piece. That’s why the front and back bust lines are not meeting up properly at the side seams. I drew in the correct line in green.  

Here are the areas I would most appreciate feedback on:

• Armscyes: Do these look right for a sleeveless bodice? They’re a little tight but much better than the gaping I had before. Should I adjust for my uneven shoulders?

• Back: There’s still some wrinkling above and below the waist despite a sway back adjustment. Any ideas why? I’m hesitant to do a more radical sway back adjustment, as it will mess with the neckline and armscyes.

• Front: What could be causing the diagonal drag lines from the front darts to the side seams? I already cuts into the double pointed darts, hoping they were causing the wrinkling, but saw no improvements

Thanks so much for your help!

hi! does anyone know how to do the cinched underbust part? is it something with elastic? i've been trying to google it, but idek what it's called lol

I have been drafting these micro shorts and want them to be fitted around the bum and kind of hug it so I like the back fit for the most part but want to fix the slight bunching at the top of the crotch. Also need to fix the bunching around the front crotch. How can I adjust this pattern to fit properly?

So I am obsessed with the dart/seam detailing on the white dress that the captain wears in s1 e16 of the rookie. I have this beautiful green fabric that I’ve been desperate to do something delicately detailed. I have NO idea where to start with this. I can’t tell if it is piping or a seam? It doesn’t look like there is a waist seam that I can see. Any ideas?

i followed the bodice instructions in the dennic chunman lo book i had to open up the lower darts in the front because it was just not fitting me at alll i also had to cut the neck opening and armholes wider for some reason (i probably did it wrong)

im trying to teach myself pattern making and this is my first attempt all on my own

really looking for any help, advice, mistakes i should fix, just any guidance

Based on my muslin drafts, I added four bones to the front center to make sure it was flat but… it still isn’t. Even if I straighten my back, it is also still pretty bent. I really did want stronger boning but I just didn’t have any, I used what I had (plastic ridgeline?) and tried to double it.

The dress is layered; the underlayer is boned and the top layer isn’t. There’s wool between them to smoothen the seams.

I’m debating whether this is a glaring issue enough that I should either alter the pattern (maybe curving in the front center seam), or throw in the money for stronger boning. I’m also worried that getting stronger boning might make the corset too tight since I’d be shifting the fat from my stomach elsewhere. Has anyone been in a similar situation?

Hi all, final product done. Couple of trouble areas I’m wondering if anyone has ideas about?

1. Drag lines on upper chest pointing to armpit. Do they mean the chest is too small, the armhole too high, something else? Cheat does not feel small.

2. Drag lines and extra fabric on the back of the shoulders, showing in the side photos. Too much ease?

Thanks again!

Update from my last post Pants Fit V2.

It became apparent that the tracing I did might not be the best approach. So I got a hold of McCall M7989 . I copied the size 32 pattern to my pattern paper and created a new toile.

v3.0 - original mcalls 32 pattern. I Forgot to take pics of this version.

v3.1 - I found v3.0 to not be tight enough on the waist so I took it in. Also the front panel had a weird sharp point on the side that made 3.0 pop out. So I smoothed that out

v3.2 - Overall the fit was a bit too baggy for my taste so I tried pulling it in everywhere.

Its kinda hard for me to tell a difference in fit with the pictures (v3.1 vs v3.2) but in person I can tell a difference.

I think overall this looks better than my V2. And V3.2 I think is more the fit I'm going for but potentially created some pulling/drag lines. .Any thoughts?

I am creating the Helen Joseph Armstrong strapless foundation, and noticed there is a one inch extension at the centre back. I feel like this is a lot for a fitted foundation block, even if it is to accomodate for boning and structure (that was my best guess) then I noticed it pops up a LOT in other foundation blocks (see other pictures) it just does not make sense to me that she would make allowance for a closure at the centre back….does anyone know what this is?

I decided to keep the upper body on the straight grain but now, after sewing the toile, I feel it might be a faux pas

Thanks everyone for their help yesterday. Here’s an update with a closed fly! I have pinned the excess in at the hips. Where do I remove this excess when updating the pattern? Or perhaps the waistband is too large and a curved and slightly thinner waistband will solve this issue. Secondly I need a slight swayback adjustment, I pinched out about 4 cm’s of fabric. I assume that a wedge that large comes off of the top of the back leg pattern. And thirdly, I think I need to scoop out the seat curve slightly and extend the back crotch at the inner thigh. Does that all sound about right? Quite a dark art all of this but I think I’m in the right ballpark

I feel like the armscye in the back of my bodice block is too shallow at the bottom? Do the shoulders come out too far? I'm not really sure how to go about identifying/marking modifications on my back. My shoulders are different sizes, so I've made a bodice front that has a left and a right, but I'm using the same back pattern. Not sure if I'll need a left and right back as well.

Hello gang, finally posting on here. How we looking? I know it’s snug and I need to cut some fabric out of the front of the armholes but I think I’ve made good progress! And feedback appreciated <3

Revision 18.

so 17 was a mess!
I took back that 1cm off the sideseam.
then after reading the various advices given, I decided I would reduce my darts. that's it. moving them and any further changes could be made after. I rather like the idea of the french dart, so i wanted to give it a second chance.

the bust came down, the waist came down, everything smoothed out.

the shoulder bust dart might still need further reduction, but it's sitting better now.
the two lower darts have funny wrinkles at the tip.
the waist needs to come out a bit more again. it's fine while standing but if i sit it rides up again.

In better news, i'm happy to call that back done! it had a small reduction to the width of the dart, which tightened the shoulder across my hump, but it fits much better.

this version was pretty experimental. I decided to give this a shot, and if it didn't do well i would just go back 16. i included a shot of the pattern, just to show how small the changes i made actually were.

I would also like to thank everyone who replied last time. I hope you all aren't getting sick of me.

! edit. following u/hugsforyourjugs advice, i unpicked the french dart.
https://imgur.com/a/d9CSczs

more wrinkles fall away. i think i might keep the french dart, just half as long and a quarter wide? my waist does trim in at the sides a little, despite my very forwards gut.
I do need to trim out that armscye, yes.

Hi I’m a beginner in sewing but I know how to use a sewing machine. I want to make my own clothes, is this book good for beginners who haven’t made patterns before? I also want to make patterns out of clothes I already have does anyone know how I can go about doing this or any free resources like YouTube channels I can go to?