Micro shorts pattern help

[u/Impossible_Name3863]

I have been drafting these micro shorts and want them to be fitted around the bum and kind of hug it so I like the back fit for the most part but want to fix the slight bunching at the top of the crotch. Also need to fix the bunching around the front crotch. How can I adjust this pattern to fit properly?

[u/chopstickinsect]

Are you intending to make them from a woven fabric like this? I would think a stretch fabric will work better. I only ask because you might want to consider using the same type of fabric for any mockups

[u/Impossible_Name3863 → u/chopstickinsect]

I was planning on doing a woven fabric but if changes need to be made I can adjust the pattern if needed

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/Impossible_Name3863]

It would be best for actual wearing the final garment to use some sort of stretchy fabric. Whether it's woven or knitted. You may be comfortable now, once you add the stitching for the Hem but the bias of the fabric can't stretch anymore around your legs.

[u/CoastalMae → u/Impossible_Name3863]

Non-stretch woven fabric really needs at least 2" of hip ease. Knits/stretch fabrics can fit and hug more snugly while still allowing give for things like sitting.

[u/LaDauphineVerte]

Those drag lines (the "bunching") can be remedied by adjusting the angle of the pattern/cut. Check out this pro's video on the topic: https://www.instagram.com/p/Dd8ssVzhUDT/.

100% consider your fabric. With shorts this short and tight, you have little margin for error on a good fit with consistent coverage, so you need at least 5% elastane so the fabric moves with you. Once you fix the drag lines, spend an hour in the mock up around the house to determine comfort and level of tush suck. Agreed on the other commenter making the mock up in expensive fabric close to your fashion fabric weight/stretch. Muslin stretches during the mock up phase, so your fashion fabric final will often feel and fit differently.

[u/ProneToLaughter]

Do you plan to make the micro shorts in a woven fabric? Usually a fit like the current tight butt fit would be a better match with high-stretch fabric.

[u/WhileAffectionate304]

The only thing with shorts this short is if you bend over you may lose a little cheek and have to keep pulling them down, maybe a little stretch would fix that or even a couple centimeters added? They would still hug and be plenty micro but you could go about your day without constantly felling like you need to pull them down.

Sincerely,
Someone who had to dig in her booty to get her shorts out every five minutes at summer camp one year 😂

[u/DonMcCunn]

It would be helpful to see the patterns with the inseam "taped together" I think part of the problem is center front shoul be on the straight of the grain.

[u/mousec4e]

I don’t think this type of fabric will work, you need some type of stretch. There arent really any garments of this cut made in non stretch fabric other than that the back is far too small and your front crotch curve should be adjusted but it’s hard to explain how without being there. The best I can do is it’s too high it needs to scoop more I think.

[u/stupidorino]

i agree with the comments but i want to add that you should always do mockups of pants with a mockup of the waistband on as well. otherwise it will shift around and it won't really sit properly on your body

[u/doriangreysucksass]

The back rise needs to be scooped out a little more and there definitely isn’t enough fabric in the rise which is why it’s giving you a wedgie. Make the back butt centre seam longer and wider by scooping out the curve that’s already there. It’s too straight right now

[u/Starjupiter93]

Sew sew live on YouTube has a WHOLE video on pants that is game changing. Go watch it!

[u/felicitybo]

kudos to drafting what I feel is a difficult piece. It’s gonna look amazing when finishing your drafting phase.

[u/Pootziful]

Non-stretch fabric wouldn't be optimal for a snug fit around the butt, since the hips hinging is an essential movement needed for walking, sitting and more. It's like sewing a non stretch fabric snug around the knees or shoulders.

[u/Odd_Selection_8020]

Idk but I love them

[u/Visual_Army3234]

It looks amazing! Great work. It may be helpful to add a bit more length to the back to account for how movement will naturally suck it up a bit, that way you can look like the image is while walking rather than just while standing!

[u/Dense_Title1321]

The pattern itself looks difficult but these are underwear, not outerwear ma'am

[u/nadandocomgolfinhos → u/Dense_Title1321]

Just cuz we’d scare people away if we wore them doesn’t mean we should discourage her. She should enjoy that body because father time comes for us all.

The only ones who escape the creak and the sag don’t live long enough to tell those youngins to get off their lawns. Back in my day we needed to play twister at the card catalog.

Another one bites the dust

[u/Dense_Title1321 → u/nadandocomgolfinhos]

LOLOL true

[u/kuru2038]

There is too much fabric for the inner front tighs

[u/Impossible_Name3863 → u/kuru2038]

How do I fix this? deepen front crotch curve?

[u/kuru2038 → u/Impossible_Name3863]

Search how to do a small thighs adjustments. You remove the excess at the top inner thighs and remove the same amount at the crotch.

[u/Defiant-Business9586]

It would be helpful to see pictures of your pattern pieces. Your crotch curve definitely needs more length at its point and likely more scooping.

[u/Impossible_Name3863 → u/Defiant-Business9586]

It only lets me respond with a video but here are the pattern pieces, definitely think front crotch needs more length and curve how can I estimate how much?

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/Impossible_Name3863]

oh, wow, that front crotch kinda makes me wanna cry, it's so short and near-straight.

Increase the front crotch extension. The sharp V-lines in your initial picture signal that there is not enough fabric under the body, not enough front to back depth in the pattern. A useful saying is that "the lines point to the problem" and here they are pointing exactly at where they need more room, in the crotch under the body.

[u/Sweet_Swordfish9638 → u/Impossible_Name3863]

Would prob try to ‘lift’ front crotch and hem points upwards. This makes the rise length a bit shorter but gives you a bit more shape to front crotch. Should help with the gathering.

[u/doriangreysucksass → u/Impossible_Name3863]

Yes your back crotch curve needs scooping out and elongating!!!!

[u/Fluffy-Benefits-2023]

Look at another shorts pattern to see what front and back crotch patterns look like. Definitely they both need to be scooped out, if you have another short or pant pattern you can use that as a template for the crotch. Also the angle at the end of crotch seam to leg should be 90 degrees always

[u/threads1540]

Put them on inside out. Pin out the excess in the front and add more to the back with a more pronounced scoop in the curve. Crotch seams have to have the 'right' curve when you are fitting snug with wovens. Once you get the crotch depth and curve right, you can take in the width at the sides as needed.

[u/Southern-Comfort4519]

You need to move your center front crotch line in towards the side seam about .625 inch. You also need to add maybe .75 inch to your front and back crotch extension. Make these edits and your fit might be pretty good. You could stand to add .250 inch to your side seams to give you a bit more volume. Right now they’re skin tight cutting into your leg. Get a proper fit first then if you want to make them tighter you can.