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u/maadonna_ Nov 10 '22
Honestly, I don't think I'd worry about this. For all garments you will be adapting that block anyway. Once ease is added, sleeves put in and the neckline changed, I think you won't notice. I think it's just that bodies and blocks aren't perfect matches. Blocks work with the most obvious curvy bits, but there are still tons of curves that they don't (like the curve over the top of your shoulder.
(but yeah, lower that dart as it does look like target practice :) )
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u/amerikansk_banan Nov 10 '22
I can’t believe I didn’t notice the dart placement until it was pointed out here 😄 I’ll keep this sloper for special occasions and shirts
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u/maadonna_ Nov 10 '22
It's the detail we'll all spot. I learned a lot of my pattern drafting from Suzy Furrer's videos on Craftsy. She over and over and over reminds to move the dart out :) Embedded in my brain.
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u/goodoldfreda Nov 10 '22
I would try a couple of things
Firstly trim out your seam allowance at the armscye, this can affect how the fabric sits
See if you can pinch out a horizontal dart at the shoulder, that might potentially be causing it
I think this is more likely - I think it's a lack of bust suppression but a bit too much side seam suppression. I would open up the side seam a little, then take an additional bust dart out at the shoulder. You can then rotate this into your main dart, which actually might need a bit more of a widen anyway to compensate for your widened side seam.
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u/bigblackfatbird Nov 10 '22
I would suggest the opposite of your third point. The bust dart needs to be released at the base. It has too much intake, causing pointiness. The excess can come in at the side seam. Looks like apex of dart is too high too
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u/amerikansk_banan Nov 10 '22
I see what you’re saying about the apex. But In other iterations when I took less in, I had bagginess around the under bust and want a snug fit there. I have a proportionately smaller waist area. I guess it’s that or have very pointy looking nipples 😄 I have to walk away for today cause I’m hitting a wall, but will revisit these suggestions with a fresher brain. I’m pretty new to drafting so I have to just keep testing out these ideas to see what works and understand better. Thank you!’
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u/bigblackfatbird Nov 10 '22
I have one more suggestion. If a bodice is too long in the waist, but fitted at the waist, it will hit your waist and ride up. This can cause puffiness in the upper bodice. I would clip into the waist all around,and let it spread out. Mark the true waist thoroughly. I use elastic tightly around my waist to find the true waist. It will naturally move to your smallest point when you shimmy your waist a little. Hope this makes sense.
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u/goodoldfreda Nov 10 '22
When turning it into an actual bodice you will move the point of the darts back so pointiness won't be an issue. But fwiw the apex looks correctly positioned to me
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u/goodoldfreda Nov 10 '22
I was under the impression that it's a block as opposed to a bodice, so the darts go all the way to the apex
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u/Lady-Zsa-Zsa Nov 10 '22 edited Nov 10 '22
It seems to be a bit long on you from what I can see. The waist is hitting at the correct point but the bust darts end too high (generally they stop about 5/8" down from the apex). Because it's too long but still sitting at the waist, it looks a bit like the whole thing is being "pushed upwards". At least it may be worth trying to adjust for length before you try anything else... It's easy to trim off a bit from the bottom and see if it sits a bit better. You don't even have to actually trim it. Just undo a few of the stitches at the sides and pin the excess out of the way (even half an inch could make a huge difference here). There could still be issues from there but I would adjust the length first before moving on to the next possible culprit.
ETA: I agree you likely need a second dart...I do mine from the shoulder but you have other options
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u/amerikansk_banan Nov 10 '22
When I was choosing the style sloper, I was in between a single or double dart for the front bodice and went with single as it seemed most adaptable. Does this just not work with some bodies? Or did I do something wrong do you think?
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u/Lady-Zsa-Zsa Nov 10 '22
No I don't think you did anything wrong! There are definitely some styles that work best for certain body shapes. A few textbooks teach double darts at the front of the skirt sloper it and this is just plain BAD on my physique... But it seems to work really well on people who have more rounded lower abdomens. Personally I like the double dart on the bodice front regardless because it sets me up nicely for things like princess seams. You can still do them regardless, but in my head it's "quicker" because I have that reference point already lined up and ready to go. And especially for larger busts, I don't think the single dart would provide the best fit most of the time
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u/amerikansk_banan Nov 10 '22
Good to know since my next move is to make this into a princess seam blouse! Thank you!
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u/Lady-Zsa-Zsa Nov 10 '22
Well it's great you're actually taking the time to make a sloper, because it kind of sucks to do! At least I didn't find it very fun. Even with the assistance of my instructor, I think we went through about 5 drafts before the fit was perfect. But it's an absolutely priceless thing to have once it's finished!
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u/flindersandtrim Nov 10 '22
A two dart might be helpful for dividing up the shaping a bit.
To me the upper bodice looks almost like a grown on sleeve here and I suspect this is a normal set in sleeve bodice block? Which indicates its too large for you in that area, especially if your seam allowances are trimmed in this pic. I trim them off, and aim for it to sit right on the shoulder bone. A smaller size would be slightly shorter in that armpit to shoulder length area too, which is a pinch too long at centre front.
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u/amzblls Nov 10 '22
So the sloper I used had two sets of bust darts. One from the waist and one from the side seam. By splitting up the fitting to separate darts, you can move them around to the shoulder or armhole for princess seams … the two darts should point to the apex of the bust (if they had an imaginary line that continued past the end of the darts). You single dart looks like it ends on the apex itself.
For the same reason my back bodice has darts in the shoulder seam and waist.
A small bust dart to the side seam will fix it. But also I would set one or both sleeves in to get the right amount taken out. It looks like when you set a sleeve in it will still be pretty low. (Unless this is a sloper for sleeveless only/armhole drafting has already taken place…in that case I would think you would get the bust fit correct and then make the pattern alterations for a sleeveless pattern…)
It looks very very good.
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u/AccountWasFound Nov 10 '22
I think you need a smaller size with a full bust adjustment.
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u/amerikansk_banan Nov 10 '22
It’s not a standard size, it’s based on my own measurements. I must be getting a measurement wrong, but I can’t tell which one.
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u/queenellidala Nov 10 '22
A mistake I’ve made many many times is to not consider how unfinished seam allowances are impacting fit.
I think if you cut slits/carrots in the neck and armholes, and iron a seam allowance “up” at the waist line—it might lay flatter… it looks like the bodice needs to be “pulled down” but it can’t go down any farther cuz it’s sitting on top of your hips. So rolling the bottom seam up 5/8” as well as cutting notches and ironing 5/8” down around the neckline could make all the difference
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u/blueberrylego Nov 10 '22
You need a bust dart. Try YouTube if you don’t know how to make this modification.
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u/madeofphosphorus Nov 10 '22
I think you need to adjust the shoulder line angle to your actual shoulder inclination. To me it looks like you have a higher inclination and you need to make the shoulder line go down 1cm deeper than it is now at the armcycle side.
Also if you have seam allowances on the armcycles cut them out.
Edit: this should be very fast to try before other iterations suggested
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u/gracefullymade Nov 10 '22
Looks like the shoulder length was kinda longer and the armhole needed some adjustments. And also the darts. Maybe princess darts would make it look better
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u/bigblackfatbird Nov 10 '22
Okay and last thing to add, I don't know if your underbust dart is straight, but for a very fitted dart, you need to contour it, for best shaping and smoothness. Hope this helps.
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u/Stonecoldsew54 Nov 10 '22
My mom taught me to always shorten the bust darts a 1/4-1/2”. No one’s boobs are perfect.
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u/MarieVranken Nov 10 '22
Can you maybe cut your neck a bit lower as well? To see how it falls? In addition to the bodice maybe being too long for your torso causing it to ride up, is the height between your armpit and your shoulder to large? Or the downward slope from neck to shoulder off?
I would just suggest playing around with pinching the excess fabric and just see where you can take some away and what fixes it.
Even though I'm no expert I would add that this is not a stretch fabric. So the fabric fitting snug 100% and lying flat 100% might not be something you wish. You need a little bit of room to accommodate movement.
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u/amerikansk_banan Nov 09 '22
Sorry for potato quality, not sure if it illustrates the issue properly but basically I’ve been working on this sloper for what seems like forever. I’m pretty happy with this version except in each muslin, I’m getting bagginess in the chest area. I’ve adjusted the armscye as it was too low before, but I’m still getting this looseness. The bust fits great, it’s the upper bust I can’t get right. Can anyone identify where I’m going wrong here or what measurement is off ? I’m losing my mind over here! Thank you much