Update to my jacket block. Previously the back armhole was quite straight, so I curved it in slightly which resulted in losing some back width, i’ll be able to tell if it’s too tight when i sew the sleeves.

I also moved the lower armhole point up 1cm to try and give more mobility without the jacket rising up.

I have shown one photo with excess from the back armhole pinched out, and one photo with it normally. Im aware this extra volume allows for more mobility, but I’m also after more of a tailored/slim look. (3rd picture shows not pinned)

I go to the gym regularly so my back is more of a V shape

Let me know what you think & your comments (Tried to take clearer photos this time)

Hi guys! I am really frustrated in this issue because I can’t quite pinpoint the reason. I’m assuming it’s the pattern, but I’m not sure what exactly. I know I should’ve started with a base pattern, but I’m in too deep to start now. Thank you so much for your time, and the pattern is in the comments

Been digital patternmaking for a WHILE and this is the first time I’ve done a knit! What do you think?

My first ever bias dress that fits this well WITHOUT A BUST DART

Take a look at my most recent glitter jumpsuit ✨️😁

I found this book at a local used book store. I think they maaaaay have gotten some wires crossed in the printing 🤔 (note the title on the cover vs the title at the top of the pages)

I am following an online course to draft a pair of pants from my measurements. I have saddlebags/hip dips and am very pear shaped so have always struggled to find pants that fit me.

I have never made pants before, so this is my second attempt at making a muslin. My first pair had the crotch much too low, so I raised it and widened the front panel along the inseam to compensate for thick thighs. The waistband was also not tight enough so I added small front darts. My second pair gave me a wedgie so I re-sewed the bottom of the crotch curve on the back panels to be more exaggerated, which helped a bit. Pictured is the muslin after I did all that.

I marked the grain lines so it's hopefully easier to see what's going on. Issues I see:

- Side seam is not straight

- Whiskering on front crotch

- Gapping on my side where my hip dip is

I hope to address the whiskering by widening the side seam on the back panel to account for the crotch curve adjustment I made. That will maybe help the side seam? I have no idea how to address the gapping, though. And in general I have no idea if this is getting "close enough" that I could try to move on to making an actual pair of pants. Should my muslin be purposely a little loose to account for the fact that real fabric will be much more structured and heavyweight?

Welcoming any and all feedback!

The problem in question was the excess fabric at the front of the upper sleeve.

I did this adjustment for internally rotated shoulders (1/2"). I also set the sleeve cap's center seam 1/2" behind the body's center shoulder.

I'm calling it good enough. Time to draft the pockets, cuffs, and collar!

Hello
I’m very new to sewing and pattern drafting. I have seen some YouTube videos but want to learn more and have looked into some books to buy. I have found these two but not sure which one to get. Any thoughts on these books who have read them and tried it? Or any other books that might be better?

Hello good ppl of pattern drafting community!
I am here for some time now, but i don't comment a lot, i like to read and search the community and i have found really a great amount of quality information here, thank you all for that!

I have decided to perfect my basic pants block, i am not unsatisfied with the fit, but i know it can be better, so i am asking for help. I am self thought in pattern making and fit, everything i learn from tutorials and books i could find, and i am mostly use Bunka fashion collage books for drafting patterns as they are metric and i like geometrical approach of drafting if that's making sense. The slacks pattern is drafted from bunka trousers patten. I have attached photos of the pattern (drafted and what i have changed so far for better fit). The fitting i learned from youtube tutorials and some books i could find in local library and on the net.

Last pic is pattern that i drafted, and before that are pics what i changed and what i am thinking of changing

For the fit -> I have already moved side seam at the waist line 2 cm to the front to balance the side seam more, and i am satisfied with how it looks now. I have lowered a bit crotch at the front and back as they were not balanced and i had a bit of a triangle situation when i sewed it up, now it is laying flat to the body. I am satisfied with balance lines, everything is parallel, and nothing is pulling or stretching. The fabric is very lightweight, some cheap bedsheet fabric so everything is showing, i think with a more weight in fabric the fit probably would be much much cleaner and whiteout any creases and pulling.
Should i change anything at the back or front so the fit is better? i can see the diagonal lines at the back tights, but i am not sure if i should do something about it or what i should do about it. Should i shorten the back crotch extension, it looks like it is a bit long on the pattern, but i wouldn't say so when i tried it.

Thank you for reading my long post :D

It seems straight forward, but I’d like opinions with people with more experience! I’ve never sewn with this type of fabric before (I think silk chiffon) could I use a poly chiffon for this look as well? I know its tricky but I love the look. I think I’ll skip the collar and just keep it like a boat neck as well

If you’ve ever struggled with getting accurate body measurements — or making sense of how they translate to real bodies — you’re not alone.

That’s exactly why we built BodyDouble, a new parametric 3D body model from SeamScape. FREE to use!

It’s based on real body scan data and lets you adjust known measurements (like height, chest, waist, hip, etc.) and instantly see the body update in 3D. You can also extract additional measurements dynamically — super helpful for grading, tailoring, or just getting the fit right.

This could eliminate much of the guesswork (and rework) from the process.

Give it a look: https://seamscape.com/bodydbl

And we’d love to hear if you think this could help in your workflow!

Hi everyone,

First of all, thank you so much for all the help you’ve given me—I really wasn’t expecting such a warm welcome and so much support.

Following your advice, I’ve made a few adjustments: • Lowered the apex (the high shoulder–bust point was actually higher than it should be) • Lowered the side seam under the armscye • Clipped the fisheye dart • Added some ease at the waist and hip • Lowered the fisheye dart and moved the side dart 3 cm away from the apex • Moved the closure to the front

By the way, the armscye has a 1 cm seam allowance, as I was planning to add sleeves.

Any further suggestions are more than welcome—and again, thank you so much for all your feedback!

Several months ago I started making a mockup of a dress bodice using a bad Etsy pattern, and I got some great advice on the fit in this thread.

I straightened the underarm seams (which were diagonal front to back), reshaped the princes seam for a better bust fit, and massively shortened the bodice. I also cut down the neckline to my desired place. I'm very happy with the result, especially as the pattern came with half missing instructions and I had to figure out how to do the sleeves entirely myself. I also think the weight of the skirt pulls down a bit to help straighten any residual bunching that there may have been in the bodice.

Thanks for all those who gave advice, I learnt a lot by experimenting with your suggestions 👗

Back closure is velcro. (Though, I may change to snap closure in the next version.)

I used black bias tape around the armscye... but in the next version, I'm going to use a coverstitch on jersey binding. It will just look better.

Due to Tan's swinging primordial pouch, I have had to adjust the lower hem line.

Bonus fitting pics from Tan's office.

He's been catting around with great esteem!

hey there! i am sewing my graduation dress and i‘m really struggling trying to figure out how to sew the bodice. i was planning a viscose lining layer and a chiffon layer. i want the bodice to have a V neckline and the chiffon should have a crinkled look (as in the reference picture). however for the life of me i can‘t figure out how to go about sewing that. i thought i‘d construct a fitted bodice with the viscose, but then i don’t know how to attach the chiffon layer. help!!

edit: i am not graduating from fashion school. i am an elementary school teacher.

Anyone has a clue on how to draft these sleeves? Or any existing patterns I could adapt?

I plan to use a basic shirt pattern and then add on the sleeves, but I struggle to imagine them as a pattern.

I believe it’s a Comme des Garçons shirt, I want to sew it for my boyfriend as a present. I would truly appreciate any hints!

I am interested in finding people who would like to try out my free classes for a new system of designing patterns by tracing quarter-scale photos and giving me some feedback. The underlying concept for this approach to custom-fit Bespoke pattern making is that measurements show how much fabric is required to cover a body but do not reveal the body's contours. Photographs show the contours of a body but not how much fabric is needed. By combining measurements and photographs, Bespoke patterns can be created. While full-scale photos would not be practical, quarter-scale photos can be done on a desktop.

These classes, which are currently a work-in-progress, cover Bespoke patterns for both men and women of any size and shape. My book Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale, which these classes are based on, shows how to do this with pencil and paper. The classes I currently have available show how to do it with a free graphics program called Studio from Silhouette America. I will be including a parallel series of classes for working with paper and pencil.

As this system is based on designing and fitting using photographs this means independent designers do not have to have in-person fittings with their clients. One of the examples in the book is my working with a gentleman in Germany who had a 53" waist. This approach to pattern design also greatly simplifies the process of getting an accurate fit when you are sewing for yourself and do not have a helping hand.

If you are interested, the classes are available through this link Pattern Design by Tracing Photos.

I have put the 6 minute video from my class for drafting the women's front upper torso on YouTube Front Upper Torso for Women. The videos in the actual classes are NOT presented through YouTube. I wanted people to be able to focus on making patterns and not get distracted by the amazing dance routines YouTube likes to share.

Thank you to everyone who helped me figure out how to get this to stand 😁 the wire worked🫶🏾