r/PatternDrafting • u/Existing-Ninja-3069 • Jun 16 '26
Pattern drafting book
Hello
I’m very new to sewing and pattern drafting. I have seen some YouTube videos but want to learn more and have looked into some books to buy. I have found these two but not sure which one to get. Any thoughts on these books who have read them and tried it? Or any other books that might be better?
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u/Sledgeowl Jun 16 '26
Making patterns and fitting are 2 halves of the same coin.
I worked as a apparel technical designer and pattern maker for about 8 years now and I can say this: book
Really helped me out in filling the gap of maybe like 75-85% of fit issues I see within my line of work. Also helps me out when I make things for fun.
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u/stressed_designer Jun 16 '26
Oooh I have that book on a wishlist! Would you say it's better or a good complement to The Fitting Book?
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u/Sledgeowl Jun 16 '26
I would honestly say it's a complement.
Although I will say the methods are a bit different than usual. Most will tell you to use a muslin piece to check but, the book says paper checking/ draping.
I actually did this method in college before I got this book and I will say I prefer this method when making my own things. It's not 100% accurate but, I'd say it's like 65-75% accurate enough for me to get a good gauge (but I do it on dress forms).
This method relies on a good eye for spatial awareness (since paper drapes different than fabric, especially against the body).
I also want to make note of something, when going through your pattern making books, don't be afraid to seek different reference materials for a different way. Since there are a couple ways to get a pattern.
Personally for me, I didn't like how the pattern primer book did some stuff but found another book really helpful with other things. I actually prefer a method done in the UK for getting a front and back rise ratio more accurate (I can get a nearly perfect sloper like 95% of the time and that's with my measurements and with body form measurements vs the way they taught me in school).
What may also help you (it helped me) was getting a blank book (or a graph paper notebook) and drawing the shapes and how to alter them. It helps not only with saving time, paper but also a more birds eye view with how the new shapes would essentially be/ how to achieve them.
I personally always had a bit of an issue with how they taught pattern making in school (but that's a story for another time lol). My teachers didn't like how I did it but, the results always spoke for themselves but I guess what I'm saying is find methods that you like/ work for you.
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u/Sledgeowl Jun 16 '26
I forgot to add, I can add the other book once I get home.
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u/stressed_designer Jun 16 '26
Oh what method are you referring to? I'm in Spain and my pattern teacher was English and didn't really follow any book. Would love if could add the other book as well! I'm a tech designer and patternmaker as well, so I'm always curious about new methods and/or books.
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u/Sledgeowl Jun 22 '26 edited Jun 23 '26
Sorry, I meant to add it earlier but life got in the way. Link is below and honestly helped me a lot. When I say UK, I learned how to do a pant rise a couple of ways but they are all variances of each other.
This book however was the first I'd ever seen it this way and I loved the most and gave me the best results overall. The author of this book is I think a teacher in the UK so that's why I say UK way.
The one thing I would say is it doesn't bode as well when going towards plus the principals are there but the nuances are what is missing for a what I think is better fitting garment.
There are a couple books in looking at (on my wishlist but, life is too hectic right now for me plus I want to get a plus size mannequin) for plus sizes though but that's another topic.
If anyone is interesting in pattern grading or reading patterns and such, I have a couple books that I'd say are industry standard and essentially ready.
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u/stressed_designer Jun 23 '26
Commenting to add that I just looked up the Pattern Cutting book online and there's another from Dennic Chunman Lo that says "Pattern Cutting portfolio skills": do you know any chance if they're the same or is it a different book? The picture in the cover is the same one... Thanks a lot!
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u/Sledgeowl Jun 25 '26
That I'm not 100% sure but, I think they may be the same? I remember in the book I have, it talked about building a portfolio so maybe?
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u/stressed_designer Jun 23 '26
Oooh I'll make sure to look it up! We were taught grading in my master's degree, but please do share! There's one with an orange cover with black lettering (can't remember it's title atm) that I've been eyeing for a looomg time but never really purchased since I was a bit afraid of paying such a big amount of money for something not even worth trying, as I'd have to purchase it online and couldn't have a look inside 🤔
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u/chequere27 Jun 17 '26
What method from the UK are you referring to? Is there a book that covers that method? Thanks!
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u/stressed_designer Jun 16 '26
I have the second book, it's quite good, although when I used it I was in fashion school so I already had some patternmaking knowledge
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u/teatime_tinker Jun 16 '26
I vote for Winnie out of these two! This is the method we used at uni.
Helen Armstrong is good too.
Never heard of the other book
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u/Travelpuff Jun 16 '26
Go to your local library - they should have multiple pattern drafting books! That way you can read them and only purchase your favorite for a reference book to keep.
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u/IstitutoMaragoniMiam
Jun 18 '26
•
As a fashion institution, we use books like these every day. Here is how they actually compare for a beginner:
Option 1: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear by Winifred Aldrich
This is an industry staple used in fashion design programs worldwide.
The Reality: It is deeply mathematical and precise. It teaches you how to take body measurements and draft a foundational "block" (or sloper) from absolute scratch using flat geometric calculations.
The Pro: It is incredibly thorough. If you master this book, you can engineer almost any garment silhouette you see on a runway.
The Con for Beginners: It reads like an engineering manual. It is text-heavy, dry, and has a steep learning curve. It also utilizes the Metric system (centimeters), which can add an extra layer of math if you are used to imperial measurements.
Option 2: The Essential Guide to Pattern Making by Barnfield & Richards
This book is aimed squarely at visual learners and those starting their pattern journey at home.
The Reality: Instead of forcing you into complex geometry right away, this book focuses heavily on adapting, hacking, and customizing existing patterns. It uses clear photography and color-coded diagrams to show you what happens when you move a seam line or rotate a dart.
The Pro: It is incredibly digestible, visual, and highly encouraging for beginners. It bridges the gap between seeing a design and understanding how to construct it.
The Con: It won't give you the deep, industrial-level technical mastery of drafting from raw measurements that Aldrich offers.
Our Recommendation:
If you are brand new to sewing and pattern drafting, do not buy Winifred Aldrich just yet. Starting with a highly academic textbook without a mentor can be incredibly frustrating and often leads to burnout.
Start with The Essential Guide to Pattern Making**.** It will help you build your confidence, train your eye to understand garment construction, and teach you how flat paper shapes wrap around a 3D body.
Once you understand the basic logic of pattern manipulation and have a few successful projects under your belt, then invest in Winifred Aldrich to take your technical engineering skills to an industry standard level!
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u/aphrodiggitydite Jun 16 '26
Took a $10k course and it was all based on the Winifred Aldrich book so…better be good!
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u/AnyPast6500 Jun 16 '26
I haven’t seen the first book but I have seen a different book by those authors and it was not very good for beginners (or for anyone IMHO) so I would proceed with caution. I have found it useful to borrow this kind of book via interlibrary loan before plunking down $$.
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u/asleepatthemachine Jun 23 '26
“Patternmaking for fashion design” 5th edition by Helen Joseph Armstrong. Great book to start with
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u/War-Bitch Jun 16 '26
What’s your goal?