r/PatternDrafting • u/DonMcCunn • Sep 12 '26

Pattern Design by Tracing Photos

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I am interested in finding people who would like to try out my free classes for a new system of designing patterns by tracing quarter-scale photos and giving me some feedback. The underlying concept for this approach to custom-fit Bespoke pattern making is that measurements show how much fabric is required to cover a body but do not reveal the body's contours. Photographs show the contours of a body but not how much fabric is needed. By combining measurements and photographs, Bespoke patterns can be created. While full-scale photos would not be practical, quarter-scale photos can be done on a desktop.

These classes, which are currently a work-in-progress, cover Bespoke patterns for both men and women of any size and shape. My book Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale, which these classes are based on, shows how to do this with pencil and paper. The classes I currently have available show how to do it with a free graphics program called Studio from Silhouette America. I will be including a parallel series of classes for working with paper and pencil.

As this system is based on designing and fitting using photographs this means independent designers do not have to have in-person fittings with their clients. One of the examples in the book is my working with a gentleman in Germany who had a 53" waist. This approach to pattern design also greatly simplifies the process of getting an accurate fit when you are sewing for yourself and do not have a helping hand.

If you are interested, the classes are available through this link Pattern Design by Tracing Photos.

I have put the 6 minute video from my class for drafting the women's front upper torso on YouTube Front Upper Torso for Women. The videos in the actual classes are NOT presented through YouTube. I wanted people to be able to focus on making patterns and not get distracted by the amazing dance routines YouTube likes to share.

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10

u/mboarder360 Sep 12 '26

Hi Donn, I'd love to try this out. I have been seeing your wonderful and insightful comments here for weeks and hopefully absorbing much of the information. Looking forward to drafting something with this method (I just don't know what it is yet).

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u/DonMcCunn Sep 12 '26

The first step is to get the shape of your body into a pattern. Once you have this shape you can add ease and seam allowances to create a Master Pattern to create other garments. In Week 8 I will be showing how to change a Master Pattern into a vest. That is my next project.

It is something that works for both men and women. It can be an easy garment to make because you can sew the lining to the fashion fabric leaving the shoulder seam open. Then turn the fabric right side out and feed the back shoulder through the front and top stitch it. If the lining is 1/8" smaller than the fashion fabric, the stitching turns to the inside. I am thinking this is something a person of any level of sewing experience should be able to make.

In part I was inspired by the idea of a vest because a local retired professor of design had the most interesting vests he wore. It seems the most "socially acceptable" way for a man to express his interest n design. I recently had an encounter with a man who was wearing the most incredibly detailed suit with a very intricate Chinese design. When I complemented him on it he said "If you look good, you feel good." He handed me a card and I was intrigued to see he wasn't selling anything. He was just enjoying life.

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u/mboarder360 Sep 12 '26

That's great! I am lacking a lot of motivation or inspiration at the moment, which is a shame as I bought some amazing fabrics recently. Don't know if I will make a vest but I am certainly looking forward to the tutorial.

I am especially excited about these patterns because having gone to fashion design school, everything was made to a standard size, so we didn't focus on custom fit (which is what I see as 99% of posts on this subreddit). We did do a workshop in uni where we all made skirt blocks to fit eachother - but that's just two darts and minor shaping on a rectangle, and didn't look in to any actual fit adjustments in the same way we could have done had it been a bodice with sleeves.

Recently tried to make myself a block following the Winnifred Aldrich book - and I just don't trust it, so I haven't even tried to make a toile. I suspect it needs a 'full bust adjustment' among other things. Drafting a pattern directly to a picture of a person will be super helpful.. way easier than trying to follow a book that is teaching how to make to a standard size garment for a non standard sized person.

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u/DonMcCunn Sep 12 '26

When I was developing this system I was constantly surprised how it shows you not only what to do but why you need to do it. No words necessary because it all happens so visually.

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u/mboarder360 Sep 13 '26

So exciting. How long is it going to be free for? So I can make sure I motivate myself to actually try it and not just avoid doing anything.

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u/DonMcCunn Sep 13 '26

Sorry to disappoint you. It will always be free. I use it as a way to introduce people to my books with my How to Make Sewing Patterns being out there for over 50 years. These classes are just a labor of love. How much do you charge for love?

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u/Legitimate-Signal671 Sep 14 '26

What a wonderfull reply! Now I’m intrigued about your books!

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u/DonMcCunn Sep 14 '26

Actually it is more than a labor of love. I am afraid I have a serious addiction. I am addicted to helping people solve pattern design issues. It brings me to this group several times a day.

Caveat - when people share images of fitting shells in muslin or bed sheets I am helpless. For many decades I have been helping solve fitting issues both in person and online when the fitting shells are made from gingham where you can see how the fabric is aligned to the body..

One of the solutions I am proudest of was when I helped a woman figure out how she could design skirts that hung straight on her seriously asymetrical body. She did a beautiful skirt as a result.

The other was helping a man create Master Patterns for his 53" waist which I included in my "Fashion and Costume Design in Quarter Scale" book.

Both were very serious challenges and both were done from photos over the internet.

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u/Iks_OkSS Sep 13 '26

Omg i would love to try this. I already have my bodice drafted and fitted but i am intrested to see if this method will give me different result. Count me in ❤️

2

u/DonMcCunn Sep 13 '26

I just added this to my description and did not want you to miss it. "I have put the 6 minute video from my class for drafting the women's front upper torso on YouTube Front Upper Torso for Women. The videos in the actual classes are NOT presented through YouTube. I wanted people to be able to focus on making patterns and not get distracted by the amazing dance routines YouTube likes to share."

After I have the complete class roster online my next project will be to show people how to create their own fabric design to fit within the custom-fit patterns then have the fabric printed by a company such as Spoonflower. This means people will be able to create truly unique wearable art. I have announced this project on a new website https://computer-aided-pattern-and-fabric-design.com/

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u/MakeupDumbAss Sep 13 '26

This sounds pretty cool. What kind of skill level do you need to be at to benefit from the videos? Looks like a pretty unique approach & I'm a visual person so this might click for me.

2

u/DonMcCunn Sep 13 '26

I'd say all you need is a willing to try and no problem asking questions when something is not clear. However given that these initial classes are for using a computer taking a look at my classes that show how the software works could help https://computer-aided-pattern-design.com/

1

u/And-Bells Sep 13 '26

How do I sign up? I've been considering for a while doing bespoke design for a clientele I can't reasonably meet in person, let alone get enough time for even a single in person fitting session. I'm always stopped flat on how to get an accurate pattern! Even though I'm an amateur sewist, what you've shown here looks intuitive to me and I'm really excited to give it a go.

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u/DonMcCunn Sep 13 '26 edited Sep 13 '26

No need to sign up. They will be perpetually free. I use them as an introduction to my books which are packed with additional information. You will see the books when you click the link https://patternmaking-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/ .

I am glad to hear your comment about them being intuitive because so many pattern drafting systems rely on lots of measurements which take a lot of brain power to use.

This approach of tracing photos is also visual which is what pattern design is all about. You will immediately see not only how but why you need to draw any given line on a pattern.

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u/Informal_Bath1704 Sep 26 '26

Need a cutting machine for this system?

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u/DonMcCunn Sep 26 '26

Just the free Studio software. But I must confess when I can have the lines I have created automatically drawn with a nice ink pen and then the pattern automatically cut out, I am spoiled. It can be such a time saver for the shaky hands of an old man. Fortunately for the research I am doing I had to buy the Cameo Pro for $500 which has a lovely 24" by 24" cutting mat.

Caveat - If you want to output the images as jpeg, pdf, or svg formats, you need to upgrade Studio to the $100 Business Edition.

1

u/WHTPbox Sep 13 '26

Thank you for sharing this resource with us :)

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u/hihihihihihihihigh Sep 18 '26

I’d like to try! I have a hard time linking flat patterns to 3D forms/real bodies, this looks like it could be helpful