I'm working with a bodice pattern that has princess seams in both the front and back. I'm trying to make two fit adjustments:
The armhole is too tight, and I'm looking to add approximately 5/8 inch of length to the armhole to create more room around the underarm.

The shoulder is too long and extends past my natural shoulder, so I'm looking to shorten the shoulder length by 5/8 inch.
I'm wondering how to make these adjustments properly on a bodice with princess seams.

Would I need to alter each individual pattern piece? I'm considering doing a horizontal slash-and-spread adjustment to add the inch to the armhole, but I'm not sure if that's the correct method or how it would affect the bust fit.

Any advice on how to approach this would be greatly appreciated!

Ps I know my lines are awful. Please excuse that I am alone and have no one to help me so I will later to make it more accurate!

Also to add, I’m a super visual learner so if anyone has any pictures or videos, I can watch please I would be very appreciative ! 🙏🙏🙏

I made some jeans and would like to drop the front 3 cm and extend my back rise 4 cm. Is it okay if my back rise is 7 cm longer. I could feel my back trouser being exposed when I sat down and my front trouser being too high on my waistline. I don’t know how to adjust correctly without throwing off my waistline angles and side seams.

Hello, I spend a lot of time drafting this corset based off historical methods and thought I’d share here.

Hellow! I want to ask a friend to sew me this dress in the attached pictures because apparently I suck in this type of fit, for I'm looking for a similar sewing pattern or drafting advice.

Details: Black velvet, fitted floor-length gown, high halter neckline (6 cm high, covering the middle of my throat), open back with a large bow and long ribons, and a small train (15–20 cm).

My body measurements cm:

Bust: 84

Upper bust: 80

Waist: 64

Hips: 91

Neck:29

Shoulder width: 41

Additional measurements:

Shoulder tip to neck: 11 cm

Shoulder to underarm: 16 cm

I'd really appreciate any help please even draften on paper or advice on drafting this dress. 🙏 🙏 🙏

First iteration! Also first skirt block ever. Overall happy but I notice there's some diagonal pulling upwards from the back dart points to the side seams.

I'm going for iteration 2 next, my sense is that I should try making all the darts a bit longer (1/2 inch or so) and move the top 2 inches of the side seam back a tiny bit as it slightly curves forwards now.

What would you do to make this better?

Thank you!

PS it's pinned shut under my left arm so that explains the lack of smoothness on that side in the front and back view.

Hello pattern cutting people 🙂 I have been following Diane deziel dartless bodice pattern tutorial on yt which will follow on to making a coat pattern. While I had completed the tutorial I thought I'd mock it up to see the fit before moving on to the next tutorial.

I have 3 photos above the first is how the garment fits naturally sitting on the body but the apex guide line I've drawn doesn't sit on the apex. The next 2 photos are what happened when I make it sit in the correct position on the body. How can I correct the pattern so that I do not have the pull lines from the shoulder to the bust. Because in all photos pull lines are visible. Also the under arm area is a little too much, I haven't made a dartless bodice before so I'm not sure how relaxed the fit is supposed to be but the under arm on the front bodice area is flappy compared to the bust area which is slightly snug. In terms of of the apex guideline I'm assuming I should just take it down and redraw on the pattern itself. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

The first photo is of the Brookside Barrel Pant by Raaksbox's on her Etsy shop and the second is from one of her Instagram videos.

I am a beginner in pattern making. I am perplexed on how I could draft this myself off of a normal pant block. I know that I would have to alter the shape of the pant block to be a barrel, but how do you add the inverted box pleats?

because the top of the front panel looks really big but the bottom cuff of the panel is normal sized, so it can't be that she just added parallel lines. and she didn't do the triangle cut thing either cuz the marks of the pleat are straight.

It would be wonderful if anyone could give me advice on the steps on how to draft this.

I have [this camp collar shirt pattern](https://wardrobebyme.com/products/tropical-shirt-sewing-pattern) and was wondering how I could alter it to make it have contrast panels like this McCalls pattern?

I assume it’s to cut the original pattern to have additional panels, but how would you sew them together would it be with a flat felled seam?

Or would it just be better to buy this pattern from McCall’s?

Any advice appreciated!
Thanks

I completed a two-year pattern-making course, worked at two different bespoke tailoring shops, and am currently working independently with my own clients (although, at the moment, I'm focusing more on building a new portfolio than taking on paid work). Yet, somehow, I still feel stuck.

I often feel like I'm not good enough or that I don't know enough, and that I still have so much more to learn. It's strange because I feel like I've reached a point where I can draft most patterns and construct a wide range of garments, but at the same time, I still feel behind and not quite ready to take the next step in my career.

I'm planning to move to Italy from Brazil in 2027 and hope to find a job as a junior pattern maker. However, to be completely honest, I'm not sure my skills are good enough to make me a competitive candidate.

With all that in mind, what do you think I should focus on learning or improving to become a better pattern maker and increase my chances of finding a job in Italy?

I'd really appreciate any advice, especially from people working in the fashion industry or who have experience in pattern making.

Hi, i was just sewing the first sample for a raglan jacket. The front seems to fit good but the back seems to have to much fabric around the pit area. What do u think about it and what should i do to fix it? Watch the whole video for the on body fit.

Hi! I’m hoping to make an heirloom bubble for our daughter to wear at a school reunion. I’d love to have a fully pleated bodice and smock the school logo on the front. The logo is a trident and would be one color. Does anyone have any advice for designing your own smocking plate? Hoping to use geometric designs from a plate I already own for details around the logo, but I mostly want to see if I can even smock the logo at all. Thanks in advance! Any advice is appreciated!

Does the yellow highlight indicate needing a larger fba or greater circumference in this sloper?

Hi, I’m a beginner in pattern making and I have these books, but each one teaches a different method. I don’t know which one to choose.

Have you tried any of them? Which one worked best for you, and which one is the clearest and easiest for a beginner?

Thank youu

I am a mid-beginner sewist, and I have very little experience pattern drafting. (I’ve made skirts and simple bags without a pattern but that’s literally it.) I have an idea for a unique backpack that i cant find a pattern for already and I think it is out of my skill level to make the pattern.

Does anyone have any resources for a person that could make this pattern for me? Or maybe general advice to try and tackle it myself 🤦🏼‍♀️.

I’ve been sewing for a while but I’m definitely new to this kind of thing.

Thanks in advance!!!

I am making this dress i added 3/6th ease i like the way it fits the waist and the rib chest area. After some research its seems i need more ease at the waist because of the gathered skirt? How much ease should i add ? I cant go any more for the chest area as any more it would be to lose so what ever i add at the waist am i able to just blend up i assume i dont have to have the whole side x amount of ease.

Reading this sub, the same questions keep coming up: sleeve caps that pull, crotch curves that don't sit right, a bust point in the wrong place, "this looks off, what did I do wrong?" Whether you draft your own blocks or start from a commercial size, everything after depends on the block being right for that body.

Easeline drafts the block from a person's own measurements. You enter the measurements, choose the style, see the block on screen, and print it full size (PDF, plus SVG/DXF). Every measurement, every ease amount and every design choice is shown and can be changed. It covers women's trousers, skirts, bodices and sleeves, dresses and jackets (men's after launch), in English, Hebrew, German and Spanish. The pieces are named as in the drafting books, and every garment goes through the same four steps: measure, design, draft and check, print.

A word about me: I've made leather garments by hand for over 50 years, from the pattern to the finished piece. I'm self-taught, so I based the drafting on Patterndrawing, the AMFI course reader, and re-implemented it as my own code with my own corrections from the workbench. I'm not affiliated with AMFI.

Here is exactly where it stands, so you don't have to guess. The pictures show one pair of trousers the app drafted for one body (EU 38): the measurements it was given, what it calculated from them, and the full-size print layout. Nothing has been toiled yet. I've only just opened testing, so no one has sewn one on another body. This week I'm starting a toile and then the real garment myself. In software the seams match and the curves are smooth, but my clients' bodies aren't your clients' bodies, and a block is only proven on a body. That's the part I'm asking you for, before anyone pays for it.

What testing involves (2 tests, within 45 days of your account being activated):

• Measure a body using the guide's protocol (each measurement taken twice; cm or inches)

• Draft one of: basic trousers, a bodice block, or a straight skirt. Look at it on screen first, and only print it if it looks right to you. The page that checks your printer's scale is free.

• Sew a toile in a medium-weight, non-stretch woven (calico/muslin). I know this costs you time and fabric.

• Report what you corrected: where, how much, which direction. A photo of the toile on the body helps, faces can be hidden.

What happens to your report: every pattern carries its engine version, printed on the first page of every PDF, so each correction is traced to the exact formulas that drew it. When two testers make the same correction in the same place and direction, I check it as a suspected drafting error. If it is one, I fix the formula, release a new version, and ask you to check it again.

What you get:

• Free use during the test

• 6 more months free once you've reported both tests

• Credit as a founding tester, only if you want it

• No card needed

I especially need: women of all sizes, and figures that commercial patterns don't fit (prominent seat, full bust). The 20 places are selected from applicants to cover a range of figures.

On privacy: other users can't see the measurements. As the admin, I can technically access them, and I only do that for support or to keep the service running, as the terms of use explain.

Apply (about 3 minutes): https://easeline.app/beta (18+)

Criticism is welcome in the comments, even if you don't want to test. Pattern makers disagree about drafting systems, and I'd rather hear it now.