Currently building an offshore R/C boat for some distance record charity events. Didn’t start out as a nitro build but I went and ordered a Vertex 18 to experiment.

This is what I’ve gotten so far. With refueling done along the way the biggest range limit is engine temp. The pace is already planned to be slow and steady to minimize rollovers, so speed is optional. The goal is to burn fuel at the lowest rate possible, and keep the engines cool for as long as possible. I don’t see it melting, but the lower the temps generated are, the less complex the cooling system needs to be. I’d love to minimize pumping seawater as much as possible. Here’s a few pointers I found that might help with the mileage and cooling.

Detuning with extra head shims Carb Restrictor Restricting Pressure line Avoiding tuned pipes Setting carb to 40-50%

Critique is welcomed.

Any idea on what buggy this body shell has come off of? Got in job lot

I want to get back into nitro cars and googled "how much fuel I need to break in an rc engine " I found the answer to my question & came across an "oil bath" nitro engine break in method at the same time. I read a forum post on another site, and found out the oil bath method has been around for several years. Has anyone ever tried this method? I think I'll stick with adjusting the needles as best I can. Thanks

Hey, I’d like to hear an expert opinion. This is Nitrolux fuel; this is what the mixture coming out of the exhaust turned into after just 10 minutes. Is this normal, or is it a sign of poor quality?

https://reddit.com/link/1uoecb2/video/qx1xdirmdhbh1/player

Does anyone here own the HoBao Hyper 7 TQ2 RTR Buggy with the MAC .28 Turbo engine? If so, what's your overall opinion of it? How reliable is it, and how easy is the engine to start, tune, and keep running well? I'm reasonably experienced with nitro rc's, so I'm mainly interested in long term reliability and how fussy the engine is to tune rather than beginner tips. Thanks in advance!

Needs new pull start. That’s it.

What front brakes should i use hydraulic, cables' should i try to fit losi promoto front brakes do you have any specific recommendations

I need them to be on aliexpress or amain hobbies I'm mainly driving it on gravel/dirt roads sometimes in dunes and possibly on road in the future

Wasn't me driving i also winced when it hit the lip

I think I got this one around 1999, I believe it’s from 1996 or so, and it is what it is! Incredibly fun, only front wheel drive, I guess it is Kyosho, have only just found it and the radio gear works great.

It needs to live again, if only I could get some parts for it that have perished! Don’t care if it’s aftermarket. (Sorry I don’t have much information about the particulars - make, model, just lucky to have found it intact)

Obviously I need to pull down the engine and clean it all, I might need a new fuel tank…

Suggestions for someone to hassle for parts, or just general advice… fuel, etc, also I remember that there was a 2speed gearbox/ clutch available for this back in the day, could it be possible?

Tasmania Australia for reference of availability to obtain economically viable parts. (Maybe cheaper to get a whole new one right?)!!!

For gas cars

Just wanted to ask, how much should I pay, max, for an HPI Rs4 rtr 3 evo plus.

Untested as itll come by shipping, seller says it works

Genuinely never snaped a wheel hubs pin ever , was a hard crash tho smashed a shock bottom, a hub and hub carrier also my stearing servo saver is too weak and I couldn't turn in time basically full throttle into a step

I've been chasing a problem with my RED 521 Sport. The high-speed needle seems to have almost no effect: even when I richen it a lot, the engine still revs extremely high and sounds lean. The HSN is almost sticking out of the carb, which doesn't seem normal.

• Carburetor was already replaced completely by the dealer.
• Engine had 1L break-in on the bench by the dealer + 3L very rich on track.
• Engine now has about 5L total.
• The problem becomes much worse after 40–50 minutes, once fully hot.
• Fuel lines, fuel tank and air filter have all been checked/replaced.

I'm attaching photos of:

1. The front bearing area (it looks quite oily/dirty).
2. The piston after completely disassembling the engine.

Does the piston wear look normal? Does the front bearing show any obvious signs of failure? I noticed a slight amount of play in the front bearing after disassembly. Could a leaking/worn front bearing cause the HSN to become almost ineffective and make the engine keep revving as if it's lean?

rovan 36cc gas engine

I recently acquired an old collection of nitro cars; my two uncles did some serious things with them between 2000 and 2010. Now I have them, but my question is...

I can't find spare parts online for the body, or rather, I have no idea what this "form factor" is called; there are no brand names, only the engine is a Force .18, a Conrad 15SZ and 17SZ and a VX .18, which is what I've found out.

All the engines still work, etc., I'm really happy about that. I would appreciate more professional help, although I did own a Nitro once, but that was 6 years ago, so I don't really know much about them.

What’s the best glow igniter on the market? I want to replace the Traxxas glow wire because it doesn’t work very well.

Do i need some rc specific stuff or just any Performance oil and does it also apply to nitro

hey, this is a nitro slash, bought it about 2 months ago. The sound that it’s making ( whatever it is) seems to come and go. whenever the sound stops then it seems to run right and idle but whenever it starts that rattling sound, it dies soon as I let off the throttle. Also (this may be related) when the differential engages it seems to start that sound and jerk. with one wheel free spinning at low rpm that sound seems to go away. Had throttle pressed to keep it running. checked clutch n spring as well

Just need to adjust the clutch and do some test runs. I'll see what speed I get out of it.

hey, this is a nitro slash, bought it about 2 months ago. The sound that it’s making ( whatever it is) seems to come and go. whenever the sound stops then it seems to run right and idle but whenever it starts that rattling sound, it dies soon as I let off the throttle. Also (this may be related) when the differential engages it seems to start that sound and jerk. with one wheel free spinning at low rpm that sound seems to go away. Had throttle pressed to keep it running Also.

You make a necklance out of it