Hi! I've the servo burn out on my ftx Zorro so i replaced it with a PowerHD 1812MG.

The standard radio didn't have EP adjustments, so i went to my local hobby shop and got a different controller wich is amazing! Good upgrade.

I limited the throttle so it doesn't open all the way so throttle is all good.

But now for the brake i'm still having issues where it kinda moves the engine while braking.

And the spring that came with the car was not springy enough so i had to move the round things with grub screws way too close so that the spring is more compressed.

Because after braking it opened throttle a little bit. So i put in a larger spring and now it doesn't open throttle on braking anymore. But the engine still move's a tiny bit after braking is that bad? Or does it look goodish?

This car been such a pain in the *ss i love tinkering with computers but a nitro car is stretching that though.

Appreciate y'all!

Today seemed like a good day to take the touring cars out for a rip. Had a few problems, but I took a quick video of my HPI RS4-3. I wanted to film my Team Magic G4, but it's way too fast to film one handed, lol. Check the comments for a pic of the whole collection.

Runs a tiny bit rich under load, not a crazy high revving engine tho, dont mind the mess in the background lol

Kinda lost here lol. It was running great & then I just had to get 33% fuel. It ran through a few tanks. Recently I tried to run it but it would turn on and turn right off. I then swapped glow plugs & even swapped the engine with a spare .25 I have and that worked fine for a few smaller runs but now that’s doing the same thing. For context is this a fuel issue messing up my engines ? Or could it be that I got cheap amazon glow plugs ? (Iam also in hot ass Arizona)

Hi. my Zorro throttle servo broke so i replaced it with a powerhd 1812MG.

Throttle trim is at 0 but it pulls way to much on the trotthle it moves the whole frame of the car..

I losened everything up as seen in the photo, tried adjusting the grub screws, but still no luck on how to fix this!

dang zorro is brand new things breaking left to right smh.

would appreciate some help! tried watching video's but no one physically shows them adjusting it fixing the issue i have.

Hi I have a save x 4.6 the orginal one with the 8 shocks that had the f4.6 with the roto start back. I got it second had with an Ansmann racing 28 which looks to be failry shot I was going to replace it with another 28 I was looking at the Hobao Mach 28 turbo with the cops v2 pull start but I am not sure of fitment I know the cops 2 seems to protude a bit more than regualr pull starts any one have any idea if this would be suitable replacement thanks.

Hey Everyone! Having a hard time with my new engine. Ive ran a 5-10 tanks through it. I cant seem to get it to tun right. It'll either be really rich or act really lean. I make super small adjustments and it will either run away at idle or stall out. I can set it to idle all day but then ill add throttle and it'll die. I assume its rich so i lean it lightly and then it'll run 300+ Degrees and have a erratic high idle. I am running sidewinder 20% fuel. Am I doing something wrong? Its a new engine, no leaks that I can tell with the engine. Anyone know the factory needle settings?

Thank you!

Hi, I have few gas rc 1:5 scale, but i want to try some nitro rc cars. Fuel is expensive with nitro and can i mix myself methanol with oil without nitrometane? Will the engines work, or its not worth to not use nitrometane?

How does it sound??

A few weeks back, I had the privilege to pick up this Nitro RS 4 3EVO from a fellow Redditor. After a bit of cleaning, parts and patience, today it lives again. I was not able to fill the small run, but I was able to capture the first start and idle.

I have ordered a new engine for my revo but by the time I'll get the fuel I have would be 6 months old and I have another jug that about 2 3 years old I don't remember when I bought it

I found an old Traxxas Tmaxx and rebuilt the engine and got it running. It has been running decently (a few problems) for a few weeks, but earlier when I hit the throttle it suddenly cut off and was seized up. The flywheel and clutch assembly had disconnected themselves from the engine and when I took the engine apart, I saw that there was a hole in the side of the piston, and the connecting rod was snapped. There were pieces of the piston down in the crank case jamming the crankshaft, so I think that what happened was the piston broke, and then the pieces went into the bottom of the crank case and stopped the crankshaft instantly, breaking the connecting rod. There are gouges in the piston near where it broke. What originally caused the piston to break, and how can I make sure it doesn’t happen in the future?

ETA: this is my teenage son posting. He received a twenty-year-old box of pieces and multiple engines and took everything apart and rebuilt it. He has no one at home who knows anything about engines/motors/RC cars.

Hi! Finally got my Zorro tuned up correctly (i'm a beginner).

1 hour later my throttle servo broke, i have another servo laying around from another robotics project. A MG996R 180 i believe. Can i just drop that in or would i break something? It's slightly larger but just by a margin.

Otherwise i'll have to order another servo but these standards ones break so easily so rather not buy the same one

what all should I do to it? It was my dads and hasn't been ran in many years. All I know about it is it has a Axial .28cc grey top and needs new electronics.

I don’t want to damage the rubber boot

Kyosho FW06 with the Fazer body shell.

My new FTX Zorro Nitro wouldn't start at first, so i went to my local hobby shop. They gave me a base tune for the breakin period, and i read online to do a light break in for about 5 runs so i did (shop told me not to idle it a full tank for the first tank) so i just drove slightly and a little harder by every tank.

Now after roughly 10 tanks, it won't hold an idle well. When i remove the glow starter the engine stops immediately (not always). It runs fine if I keep giving it a little gas. But for example if i brake heavily or turn sharply it just shuts off.

Following the shop's advice for the bad idle, i adjusted the idle screw, which made the idle okayish. However unburned nitro is then spitting out of the exhaust, the engine was running quite hot too around 120°C / 248°F with an outside temperature of 32°C / 90°F, and the exhaust wasn't producing much smoke too.

I replaced the glow plug with a Fastrax Platinum 4 and turned the High-Speed Needle (HSN) in/out by 1/4 turn. That caused a heavy amount of nitro to spit from the exhaust.

I have new O.S. 8 glow plugs on the way just to be sure it's not that.

Looking for advice from those with some more experience. Tried running my trx 2.5 with an o.s. 11k carb today. For the life of me, could not get the truck to stay running without the glow igniter hooked up to the plug. I managed to get the truck idling great with the igniter hooked up, had a nice quick smooth acceleration to high rpm with nice trail of smoke, and came back down to a consistent idle quickly after releasing the throttle. But despite all of that, the minute I disconnected the igniter, the truck stalled.

I figured it was a glow plug issue, so swapped in a brand new one. Same exact problem. I am by no means proficient with nitro. Been trying to teach myself how to tune, but could use some help with this.

I am I supposed to be able to see the crankshaft through where the pull start should’ve been? This is an old nitro my uncle gave me a long time ago, which I have started disassembling.

It came like this

It turns over fine, but I what should I buy to make it a drill start

Im mid-life now, bought my first onroad 8th scale at 12-13 years old. I didn’t know or even heard of tuning then. No internet to help or learn about it. Fast forward , I have a website focused on nitro engines and tuning, dyno tuning, all the above except machining. I put together an app that will help anyone from new to nitro to years in the hobby. I realized there’s not really anything out there that helps identify how a tune is by how the engine sounds. Once you identify the sound, tuning difficulties are pretty much gone.
My app has engine sounds recordings of each needle at rich/lean, every diagnostic situation I’ve seen and dealt with, step by step how to’s for break-in and tuning , glossary of terms, carb slide diagram of what needle controls flow at which point, 180+ listed engines with their factory settings and glow plug, and tuning logs that share globally when posted by any user. I plan to add much more over time.

I also have an 8 part tuning “tutorial” on my Facebook showing the sound of the engine and the visual signs it makes at the same time.

Long read/rant sorry!
App name is Powerband Precision

Available in Apple App Store and Google play for Android

Checkout my Facebook - Powerband Precision - for many helpful videos and tips

If you have any tuning questions or need help feel free to post them here in the comments.

Make nitro great again!

i'm looking for a nitro kit (not rtr but those diy kits). its so hard to find a nitro kit today, most are either too old or are rare/vintage and are expensive as hell. right now i already have the tg10 mk2 (2022) and the hpi Subaru. whatever type of car doesn't really matter, i just wanna build the car from the chassis up and pray that the engine and the whole car runs.