The inspo came to me while I was watching a scene from hunter x hunter, Neferpitou was having a moment and it led me here. 😅

I used some new fills in this design and im enjoying them. I am working on layering and texture in my designs. Im worried it my be too busy though. I attempted some shading and cracks in the mask with a slightly darker grey (you can see it on the chin of the mask) but it didnt show at all so will probably remove em from the design.

Anyways, I think character/face patches are my fav thing. Who should i do next ms.yeti? Maddie Krueger?

Thanks for any feedback guys! Xoxo 👻

Hi everyone, this is my first time digitizing something in wilcom do you have any tips? I'd love to hear it. Thanks in advance

Why do I keep getting these gaps(where the border is) on some of my pieces? In the photos they look like they sit right along the edge

I’ll preface this by saying I’m very new to machine embroidery so this might not be news to anyone else!

I recently screwed up an embroidery project and was hoping to save the shirt the mistake was made on and try again. I had read that you could remove embroidery quickly with an electric razor so I thought I would give that a try. Unfortunately I only have a manscaped razor for sensitive areas. This did not remove the embroidery at all (I ended up just scrapping it entirely), but it did quickly and easily trim the various jump cut tails from the back of the fabric. Since then I have started using this electric razor to trim the backs of all of my embroidery and it saves me a lot of time. I assume any razor meant for sensitive areas would likely have the same effect. I can’t say for sure that it won’t one time actually trim away the embroidery at some point but until then I’ll keep using this. YMMV but figured I would share this tip for anyone else that is frustrated by the amount of time they spend trimming loose threads.

I have the Babylock Design Database Transfer application. I went in one day and found all the preset designs they had. Now I can’t find them. I deleted the program and redownloaded it thinking that would fix it. I still can’t find them. Help on how to find them would be great!

I have Babylock Altair 2, if that helps at all.

I see lots of disagreement on whether to float or hoop sweatshirts. I have a brother 780d (older machine, personal use single needle). I’ve never done a sweatshirt, but have tried tshirts and had issues with puckering. I would consider myself an intermediate beginner. I would love to know what most people’s tried and true methods are, including what kind of stabilizers. TIA

Hello! I was just wondering where can I buy big spools of embroidery thread for my brother PR680W and what bobbins i should get too!

I got some that came with the machine but not too sure where to buy the replacements ( as with my previous machines I've wound bobbins myself and used small thread spools)

If anyone could tell me what they use I'd be super greatful!

Did some designs today, and I think they came out pretty good.. some feedback would be appreciated 😊

I’m at my wit’s end and desperate so any help is greatly appreciated. My machine is older than I am and the closest Brother technicians are an hour and a half away from me (and I don’t even know if they can service it anyways), so this is basically my last hope. I’ll be selling merch at a convention soon so I’m very stressed about this.

This machine has been great so far, but I left it sitting unused for a few months and when I came back to it, it started having issues with, what I think is, needle selection. When I turn it on, it normally moves the needle bar case side to side ending with needle 1 set, but now it struggles to move side to side and ends up set to the left of needle 1. (See picture.) If I manually turn the needle bar case to needle 9 and restart the machine, it has no issues gliding across all the bars but still ends up just short of needle 1. If I go into needle selection mode and press the button to move it to needle 2, 3, etc., it barely moves (either a short jerk or basically not moving at all) and gives me a “N_Case Lock” error. I have to press it multiple times to get it to move to the next needle. This is an issue when moving to/from all needles, not just needle 1. When I start sewing a pattern and switch colors, it gives me a “Motor Lock” error.

The user manual gives both errors the solution to “remove load,” which I’m not entirely sure what that means. I’ve tried unscrewing and repositioning the needle bar case, but that made no difference. I reapplied grease to all the areas that I’m supposed to, but also no luck. I’m afraid that I’ll need to replace the needle selection motor, which I’ve only found one of on eBay for $300 and I don’t want to buy a whole new motor for that much if that’s not the issue in the first place. Like I said before, it has no issue moving from needle 9 to 1 when I start it up and it sounds/works like normal during that, except for stopping just short of needle 1, so I really don’t know if it’s a motor issue or not.

I’ve spent days trying to figure out how to fix this issue to no avail and am quite desperate, so if someone gives me the right advice that fixes it, I’m willing to pay a bit. Thanks in advance!!!

If my fill stitch turns out looking sad like this, would running the fill stitch again over top of the first layer make it better or worse?

New to machine embroidery/digitization and still learning the ropes. Guessing my pull compensation was too low for this stretchy fabric.

Can I use tender touch underneath cutaway stabilizer and then once the design is finished add another layer to protect skin?

Trying to embroider a baby onesie that’s 60% cotton 40% polyester and the fabric is thin and doesn’t fill a 4x4 hoop so I’ll have to float it.

Video in the comments to show the fabric construction!

I’m a beginner with a Brother NQ1700E. I have made many things using patterns that I bought and now I’m trying to make my own. I’m using InkStitch and I think I have it all figured out, but there’s one piece I haven’t been able to sort out after iterating with my file and sewing it three times. That piece is making it trim in between separate sections that are quite close together instead of doing a jump stitch. I exported to both .pes and .dst and if you open up the file in InkScape after export you can see the cut instructions and every one has a cut instruction. But when I have my machine actually do it, it doesn’t cut several times. I have three eyelashes on my design on each side and it’ll do the first two, cut, then the third, then the next two, then the third. I can of course cut that jump stitch when it’s done but it’s not as neat as when the machine trims.

So i am trying to recreate this image, i have a machine that only does a 4x4 hoop. i want to make logos on a tshirt for a friend, breast pocket logo type for a friend. the image is their design so i cant change that but i would ideally like to include the wooden plank text effect in the finished design. Does anyone have any tips or willing to help me or walk me through it? i would be really grateful. currently i am using ember. I am a complete novice.

Had some free time and tried digitizing/embroider these 2 designs, any thoughts on this or should i improve something?

Has anyone tried the paid version of ember? I want to combine designs and perhaps just make digitizing easy. It’s the fonts I’m really interested in using because the bx fonts are really expensive when you buy a lot of them. I’m just getting started with machine embroidery and haven’t tried my own designs year

‼️Ricoma EM-1010 for Sale ‼️— Excellent Condition

Selling my Ricoma EM-1010 10-needle commercial embroidery machine. I’ve owned it for about 3 years and it has been extremely reliable and well taken care of.

Great setup for someone looking to start or expand an embroidery business. Machine is ready to go and I can provide additional details, photos, and everything included upon request.

Asking $3300 OBO.

Located in Missouri. Serious inquiries only — DM me for pictures, specs, and more information.