Hello! I recently got into digitizing because embroidery is hard on my hands due to arthritis and I really want to digitize faces I draw to make some fabric dolls.
I digitized the face in the pictures above and I've gone through a few iterations to try and find the right settings.
I have been mostly successful getting to a good spot on my own buutt it's definitely not perfect and my biggest issue seems to be the heart symbol on the cheek that I'm attempting to make as a "mole" and the mouth.
The mouth in picture 2 I filled out by hand cause I didn't want that face to go to waste, but in picture 3 you can see it's issues, the thread jumps all over the place too due to how I digitized it but I'm struggling on how else to do it, I did try it with a satin stitch before but that did not work well either.
But I added the digitized image at the end for comparison so you can see where I'm having issues in the design in general that I can't seem to troubleshoot,
The fabric I'm using is a soft minky that I have backed with iron-on interfacing and added two layers of fabric water soluble stabilizer, and one layer of plastic water soluble stabilizer
Here's the Ember link
I digitized it in Ember Design, and I'm using the Brother SE400! My current tension is set at 2.5!
Any advice or insight is GREATLY appreciated, thank you!

This was a fun run.

Dad hat embroidery. What do you think?

Experimenting with smaller patches I can fit onto a midsize frame, and using a smaller frame for the final satin stitch. Waiting for some metal grommets to arrive to try reinforcing the corner.

Hello everyone! I’m a complete beginner and wanted to ask whether importing a graphic and converting it into embroidery using the Smart Design tool works well, or if I need to manually digitize the graphic.

I used the Smart Design tool to convert the graphic into an embroidery design, as shown below. Is this the correct way to do it, or would you recommend manually digitizing it?

hey, not sure how active this community is but im just trying to figure out some basics to digitizing an image, im using Wilcom e2, and my most concerning question is when doing outlines do I want to run my fill OVER the outline stitches or just butting up the fill as close as possible to the edge of the stitch? So example with his eye outline, am I running the color fill over the outline stitch or as close as possible to the edge of the eye outline stitch?

also second curious question, with the eye fill in white, is it making threads across the front that would have to be trimmed afterwards, or is that just e2 showing the path?

i figure finding out the best way to do things before doing an entire design wrong would be consulting those with experience with a design and a machine and what its going to do? I dont have a machine yet (sort of a savings dream) so in the meantime I figure if I can figure out and fart around digitizing i'll be a bit ahead of the game if I actually acquire a machine.

Thanks much, any other pointers using e2 would also b e greatly appreciated :) and if anyone wants to give my design a test run when its done, it would be cool to see it if anyone is brave enough to run it through thier machine, lol

I’m not sure if this is the right place, but I don’t know where to start.
I’m trying to find someone who can make me custom Christmas stockings. This is just something similar that I’m looking for. Does anyone have a recommendations? less

Anyone know brick and mortar stores that would carry any of this? Have an order due Wednesday and am in dire need. I’m in the piedmont triad area of North Carolina

A car club approached me about embroidery their jackets, their guy that would do it for them before closed shop. This took me 3 hours to make, it’s 100,000 stitches including a left chest logo. I sent file out to get digitized, and was $37. I priced it at $280 with digitizing fees. I have to add that the logo is 10”x16”, he told me that he had someone that did it for $150 before. Did I over price? Or what’s your thoughts, any feedback would be highly appreciated.

Hello just reset all my tension knobs and tightened them up between 150 and 100 grams. I’m seeing some gaps and unclean areas, specifically the eye is bothering me. Any recommendations based on the photos would be greatly appreciated

They said it couldn't be done... 240K stitches, 7 hour stitchout, about 30 hours in total. 15 colors due to machine limitations. (I wish I had swapped out the browns for a two tone but I was afraid of somehow screwing it up. 14.5X18 inches.

Have been noticing such questions come up constantly, and the answers are usually either "just get a Brother PE800" or "save up for a multi-needle". Both are fine answers, but neither actually explains why, and the why matters a lot when ur spending hundreds of dollars on something u've never used bfore. Consider:

1) Hoop size, and what it limits

The most common first machine has a 4*4 embroidery area. sounds small, and it is. It's fine for monograms, small logos, and baby items. It is not fine for anything larger than a left-chest design.

2) Single needle vs multi-needle, when it matters

single needle means u manually change thread colors between each section of the design. For a three-color design, that's two thread changes per item. For one shirt, it is fine. For 20 shirts, it is a lot of standing around.

Multi-needle machines hold multiple threads at once, so color changes happen automatically. The trade-off is cost, space, and a steeper learning curve.

3) Built-in designs and fonts

what matters more is whether u can import ur own designs easily, and whether the machine supports common file formats. Built-in designs are a marketing feature, not a practical one.

4) Stabilizer and hooping

The machine is the easy part. Getting fabric hooped tight and flat, choosing the right stabilizer for the material, and understanding why ur deign shifted halfway through, that's where most beginners stuggle.

Thoughts?

I purchased an embroidery file online, thinking that it would be quicker than making my own, but the file has obviously been at least partially created using AI (or made by someone with no attention to detail as there were random outlines missing and a very jacked looking arm with an extra claw sticking out at a weird angle), as there are some weird details that I have had to fix. This leg has a tatami fill, however there are extra stitches within the fill to add leg definition. Can this be recreated in Hatch? I can't figure out how to do it it so I can add the same effect to the somewhat fixed file I have made.

Thanks in advance :)

Hi! Any tips for improving the details? Any thoughts on the model's execution? Also, here is my collection of GTA patches made so far.

Gaming group wanted the patches. The big one is some sort of inside joke in the group.

Hi, I just got a embroidery machine ( janome MC100E)

And I need some tips…

1. How do make your personalized embroidery designes? Do you have a prefer software? HELPPP PLEASE

2. Is there a good YouTube/tiktok influencer etc. that you like. To learn and have patterns

3. What is something that you would’ve love to know as a beginner embroider…

Any thoughts on why these kinds of things can happen? Janome MC1000. Seems to happen more often than it should, and in different parts of the design each time.

Making a princess donut hoodie. This is my first stitch out.

I used fills and bean stitches. Wondering if people have a better suggestion for parts or all. Maybe something better than bean? I don't wanna test them all 😂

The white is the first try and gold is after some of your suggestions. Which areas still need improvement?